UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Robby1870

Members
  • Content Count

    5,255
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Robby1870

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/05/1984

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    robby1870
  • Website URL
    http://robbymwhitesell.googlepages.com/home

Converted

  • Location
    Lexington, KY
  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Also, they don't absorb water as easily as rubber ones.
  2. It's 94+ rears and you already have a '94 so you've got the best direct swap calipers available. Just grease the sliders (pad and caliper) really well. From my experience with Ws, the front/rear bias is heavily toward the front (like most cars), but maybe a little more than most. I owned Ws for 8 years and don't think I ever had to replace the rear pads. Bleeding the brakes should help some as well as the stainless steel lines.
  3. All of this talk about Turtle Wax Ice got me thinking. I bought a bottle when it came out a couple of years ago just to give it a shot. Used it once and it's sat since. I decided to clean my interior today, vacuum, vinyl, door jambs, etc and realized the Ice stuff would work well for waxing door jambs (no white residue). So I'll continue to use it for that sole purpose.
  4. Any other regular type wax is better. I'm not a big detailing/appearance guy so I have no idea what is "good", but even I can tell the ICE stuff doesn't work as well. I think I have some kind of Mother's wax right now.
  5. The only good thing about the Ice stuff is it doesn't leave white residue. As a wax though, it's sub par.
  6. This topic has been moved to Cutlass Supreme Convertible. http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=86370.0
  7. I hate to speculate because I don't want to lead you in circles. But, it could be a collapsed lifter. It would make a similar sound to not having the valvetrain tightened down because the pushrod would have more travel than normal because the "guts" of the lifter are stuck in the "down" position. My sister's old Monte had this problem. When I fixed it, it turned out to actually be two collapsed lifters. Were you able to spin the pushrods with your fingers at all? I'm not sure how room you would have had, but I thought I'd ask.
  8. Over torquing puts too much pre-load on the lifters. I think the front bank is very accessible with just the valve cover off, not sure about the rear. Just for reference, the exhaust pushrods are longer than the intake pushrods.
  9. This is from the FAQ : http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=79119.0 and talks about DIS (distributor less ignition system) problems and troubleshooting. This is the part people call "coil packs" As for spark plug wires, you measure them through resistance by placing the multimeter leads on each end of the wire and set it to "Ohms". Resistance of electrical wires varies with length of the wire. If you have a really long wire, its resistance is higher than a really short one, all other things being the same. Most Ws have spark plug wires with similar lengths so what I mentioned above isn't so critical, but some cars now, have coils directly above the plug making the wire really short, so the acceptable resistance will be much lower on those. From what I remember on Ws, most new plug wires will be around 20K Ohms. I believe up to 40K or 50K is acceptable depending on the length. A good rule of thumb is 10K to 15K ohms per foot of wire length.
  10. Just from browsing this thread quickly I'm going to guess MAP sensor or IAC.
  11. http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=31177.0 That's how to do it with some codes explained. If you can't find the code in those lists (use the 3.1L VIN "T" to start with since the turbo 3.1L VIN "V" is not listed), post the code here and we can probably figure it out.
  12. Based on this: 60degreev6.com Specifications The torque spec is 89 in-lbs (10 N-m, 7.4 ft-lbs) + 30*. So, your valve lash will be off since you used the wrong torque value. Where did you get the torque value? I believe the link I have to be correct, but if I were you I'd dig around a little more and make sure of it (call a GM dealer and ask, for instance). When you tighten them down properly, you should (with the valve closed) be able to spin the pushrods with just a little bit of resistance and you shouldn't have hardly any axial play in the pushrod. Just to note, if the pushrods were put in wrong (i.e. intake pushrod in exhaust lifter/rocker arm) the car would run, probably miss and/or backfire and you could damage a valve, lifter or pushrod. You do have a 3100 engine, right? If so, that is the "L82" they speak of on the page I linked to.
  13. Yeah, I had to use a shim as well when I put one on my STE.
  14. From the factory there is only RTV in the "valley" between the heads where the LIM meets the block (I'm pretty sure this is the case). It's very possible for this to happen though, if you don't watch yourself.
  15. That wouldn't necessarily explain the low oil pressure though. If that gasket was leaking your oil level would be low and you'd see signs of it leaking.
×
×
  • Create New...