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About notsoslimshady76

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  • Birthday 03/01/1987

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  1. definitely sounds like when my vacuum modulator went bad (twice). Search around on the forum, it's a relatively cheap and easy fix. Took maybe 15 minutes to replace
  2. on my CS, the sensor got really brittle and the connector broke. If I wedged the wire from the connect into the sensor it was fine, but would occasionally fall out. It gets really hot back there, and is a pain to reconnect, so eventually I cut another connector at a junkyard (that wasnt broken), and butt connected it. It wasn't pretty, but it worked.
  3. I didn't read this whole thread, but if you change the's really easy to switch out your old odometer also.\ This is my old thread, it's kind of wordy...but it might help you
  4. Don't feel bad man. I had a similar situation with my 90 last year, and I finally threw in the towel after 5 years of ownership. I sold it for $600 to a guy who owned a shop. I had no idea what was wrong with it, something electrical. I found out later on, it took 2 months of his own time and another grab bag of parts to get the poor car running again Good luck whatever you choose to do
  5. I wouldn't paint them all black because the wheels just disappear. When I was painting mine, I was considering other colors. Here are some photoshops I did. Maybe they can help
  6. Its 20 years old. Put another front end on it and DRIVE IT. Don't waste your money with a project you'll loose interest in halfway through. Enjoy that its a 5 speed
  7. Unfortunately this is a really common symptom for the 3.1MPFI, with a lot of diff problems that could cause it. If I had to guess, it sounds like one or a few injectors going bad to me. If you remove the plenum (the thing that says 3.1MPFI on it), and use a Multimeter to test the injector resistance of each injector, I have a feeling one or two of them won't be in spec. They should be around 12.6ohms. Be careful of the vacuum hose that connects the PCV valve into the top of the plenum, it's hard to see
  8. When the pump doesn't prime.....does the check engine light turn on with the car "on"? This sounds identical to my old CS so far
  9. 30-50k is the right interval. My torque converter never worked, so the fluid burnt up pretty quickly. I'm not saying everyone else should do it at that interval, but that's about when my fluid turned black
  10. If you have the time and don't feel like spending $90+ on an old car, just change it yourself for ~$40. If you jack your car up a bit in the front and be patient, a lot of the fluid will drain out before you drop the pan. It's not the most fun in the world, but I did far harder things on my car. Also, lay down some garbage bags to catch any spilled fluid. Makes for an easy cleanup. I owned my W body for 5 years, and changed the fluid around every 10-15k miles. Of everything that ever broke on it, I never once had a problem with the 19 year old transmission with 153k miles. Best of luck
  11. unfortunately every sensor grounds to the ecm as well. That's why I gave up
  12. Subscribing to this. This is exactly why I had to get rid of my Cutlass Supreme. If you turn your car to the "on" position, does the check engine light come on?
  13. It's deff air getting into the system some how. Maybe it is something simple like a radiator cap. Was the coolant bled properly after the LIM was done?
  14. Sorry man, the car is long gone
  15. Nice. I had done that with my CS a while back, but it looks like you made out a lot better than I did
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