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pitzel

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Everything posted by pitzel

  1. Yeah but these cars are plentiful in the junkyards. There's a few "fit and finish" sort of things like exterior trim kits, that would be nice to have "fresh" , but there's still enough of that stuff kicking around eBay and similar for most of these cars.
  2. The AC disable under load is an ECU command/function, not a separate module. You can read the status of the AC through the ECU and its ALDL data stream (ie: the 8192 baud setup on your 1993), so it must be provisioned by and through the ECU. Although quite frankly, the AC draws so little horsepower on these cars that it really wouldn't matter if that function wasn't working properly. I've never heard of the cut-out being a problem though. And because the V5 AC compressor in these cars is variable vanes, the relay doesn't tend to cycle that much. Unlike my Honda, with a fixed displacement compressor, in which the ECU is constantly hammering on the relay to turn it on and off (to the point of breaking the relay!). Alternatively, your AC compressor system is probably working properly and cutting out under load, *but* you have a vacuum leak or bad vacuum check valve. Or a very worn engine or leaky intake that can't pull any vacuum. As for the wetness on the floor, get underneath (on jackstands or a lift) and clean out the drain. Dirt and grime will mix with the water and occlude the drain. You might have to get in there with a knife and cut a larger drain hole.
  3. Did you try an impact gun before using the breaker bar? I'm kind of thinking that using a big-a** breaker bar might've been a mistake (retrospectively). Although your rust situation probably is a lot worse than mine was when I had mine out a few years back to do the oil pan.
  4. Yup those things work awesome Shurkey. Best purchase I've made in a long time was buying a set. They're also great for removing the power steering pressure hose from the rack when you have to saw it off and can't seem to turn it off with a socket alone due to fitment issues.
  5. pitzel

    Why not Quad 4

    Found this on YouTube: "Pancake batter". Kind of resembles the sort of cold-weather problems that are arising in some of the newest low-displacement 4-cylinder engines. Can't imagine the dealers liked selling engines that had that problem...
  6. What kind of "parts" are you looking for?
  7. A diode failure in a 3-phase to DC rectifier would cause noticeable ripple. I had that happen with a previous alternator. I'm not convinced anything is actually wrong with my alternator -- I'm just wondering if, in the view of the astute people, there was an engineering change to the voltage regulators at some point in an effort to protect the systems from overheating during those high temperature, low RPM regimes, and thus improve reliability. After all, there is somewhat of a double whammy -- the voltage regulator would have to go full field to produce voltage at a low RPM, yet the low RPM obviously draws a significantly reduced volume of cooling air over the circuitry. I do remember growing up the family having a H-Body with the CS-130 in the late 80s/early 90s, and having all sorts of problems with it early on. Although now that I think of it, as time wore on, and it was replaced a few times, reliability did improve. BTW, when I say "stops charging", I don't get any indication on the dash other than my voltage drops. The 'alternator' light or "check gauges" light does not come on... So I'm really just inclined to think that dropping out is just the engineered functionality of the voltage regulator/exciter. When the RPM's are at driving speed, or the thing is cold, voltages are nice and high. Up to 15V at -35C starts. Wow, you actually got 100k out of a CS-130? That's amazing...
  8. My alternator (CS130) stops charging at low RPMs, particularly when the engine is warmed up and on a hot day. Idle is about 650rpm. I personally rebuilt the unit with a brand new diode set, brushes, voltage regulator, and the "Iceberg alternator" housing (with extra fins for heat dissipation). Was this "from the factory" behavior, or did the voltage regulators for the CS130 get modified over the years so they protect themselves from excess heat by simply refusing to excite the windings when the regulator was hot? Presumably to extend their life to acceptable levels? Its not a problem for me as I rarely drive in rush hour stop and go traffic in hot weather, but it is slightly disconcerting to see the voltage down to battery voltage (ie: 12.4V) instead of the 13-14V. Especially when, under such conditions, you have high electrical loading due to the cooling, AC condenser, and internal HVAC fans running full blast. Are there any smaller pullies available that would spin the alternator a bit faster under those low idle speed conditions?
  9. No, further back. You get a lot more noise in the car, where you're actually closer to the rear exhaust, than you do with the underhood shots. So definitely give that exhaust system/muffler a good inspection for leaks.
  10. Sounds like an exhaust problem to me...
  11. That almost sounds like a mount going bad... How many miles/km is on the car anyways?
  12. I had a bad knock once appear out of nowhere. Turns out it was a spark plug in one of the rear banks that was not properly/fully tightened had worked its way loose somehow. Getting back there and tightening it up properly fixed it. But seriously, a video might be helpful. Any other symptoms? Once a 3.1 is warmed up and at idle, all you really should hear is injector noise.
  13. Crazy... I have great admiration for the fact that you figured it all out and got it back together... Such dedication! Any reason to believe that it might be different/easier for the 3.1? Can't touch my AC (its R-12....). edit: checked my 1992, its identical in terms of the AC lines running under the (smaller) booster and would need very similar AC mods. (I presume you've done the strut knuckle/tower replacements to the 94+ versions, right, to fit the larger rotors -- I personally found such very useful on my 1992!)
  14. Don't know about the 3.4, but the 3.1 has lifting points which work decently well with the chains on the Harbour Freight support bar. This is the setup I used to change the oil pan gasket.
  15. What are you going exactly to make the noise? I can't quite tell from the video. If you're applying weight to it, yeah pull the strut cartridge per the procedure. Its like a 5 minute job if you have the tools.
  16. Definitely make sure you check those spring seats. GM's awful water-retaining design + GM powdercoat + road salt = almost certain failure after a while. And the cartridge design unfortunately allows one to get away with, at least for a while, not even taking the strut towers apart to inspect the seats properly. They're cheap parts to source (like $4 each side from Rockauto w/bearing), but when one of mine went it cost me $700 because it was in the middle of nowhere in northern Montana :(. BTW, welcome to the club! Lots of great people here, and most things on the W-bodies are idiot-proof fortunately. Stock brakes rather suck on the pre-1994 models. And the rear disc brakes are prone to seizing and aren't the best design either. Replacing ball joints can be a nasty affair as they're riveted on -- if you have the strut towers off the car for any reason (perhaps to inspect/change-out the spring seats), do give consideration to replacing the ball joints or at least grinding the rivets and replacing with good quality high-grade bolts. 3800's run forever -- that's the least of your worries with the car! Check to make sure the pads on the rear fiberglass leaf spring are intact, and if they're missing, repair/replace accordingly.
  17. pitzel

    Why not Quad 4

    Interesting... I've never seen a Quad 4 engine'd W-body in a junkyard, but I only started going to junkyards in the early 2000s. The owners must've junked them very early, or they simply didn't sell many in Canada. Was there any way to make them reliable, ie: updated head gaskets? Kind of like the LIMs have been the Achille's heal of the 60degree engines? Or were they deemed a 'lost cause'?
  18. pitzel

    Why not Quad 4

    Why did the Quad 4 disappear in the W-body cars in the early 1990s? Were there problems with the engine, or was it just too hard to sell a 4 cylinder engine in a non-economy car at the time?
  19. I had this issue on my 1992. Turns out the actual door had somehow detached from its hinges inside the dash. Took a *long* time to figure that out and fix it though.
  20. I took rubber fuel line and basically 'covered' the lines everywhere that they might possibly rub on the frame, particularly through the battery box area. Fixing the vacuum lines was literally the first repair I had to do on my car when I got it. I didn't find them terribly fragile, but if they rub, eventually there will be an issue.
  21. Subframe mounts were/are in perfect rust-free shape on my car. And very little rust otherwise. Yet the spring seat failed due to rust. GM powder coating the spring seats was a giant mistake, and the component is unique in that water collects in it like a cup. Most of the cars in the junkyards these days are in the post-powder-coat era at least as far as that part goes.
  22. Ick! Check the ball joints. You'll have to pop 'em out to remove the knuckle. If they're loose or the boots damaged, use the opportunity with the knuckles/strut/spring assembly off the car to grind out the rivets and install new ones. MEVOTECH MK6632 MEVOTECH MK6633 Are the same thing and are half the price of the Monroe's on Rockauto. Most posters here favour the KYB (made in Japan) cartridges on the front on their own cars, but Monroe's are okay. As you've correctly surmised, replacing the spring seats are mandatory lest you end up in the situation identical to mine which is imminent. I'm surprised the vehicle was even driveable to your place. Argh, stupid GM powder coating... BTW, level of complexity of this job is dramatically above that of brakes... An impact is very useful on that axle nut, the shaft hopefully not being too horribly frozen in place.
  23. Yeah you can buy those spring seats. They're cheap, I think I paid like $10 a piece for the Monroe branded ones, I see 'em at Rockauto for $4 a piece (get the ones with the bearings included!). AFAIK, they're all the same, whether you get Monroe, KYB, etc. Just a stamped plate of metal and a FAG bearing in the middle. The job is a huge PITA though. When you remove the whole strut tower/steering knuckle assembly, make sure you very meticulously mark the locations of every component in the upper spring assembly. Because getting it back together reasonably lined up is critical. Get yourself the Harbor Freight ball joint tool for $20 or so. It works on the tie rods too. The factory spring seats on the 1992's (and probably earlier) unfortunately seem to be powder coated, which is horrible once water and salt inevitably get under the powder. On the junkyard cars, once they moved away from the powder coating for those components, they rarely show much if any rust in my experience. Just be aware -- there's 2 versions of those steering/strut knuckles. One version is for the smaller front brake rotors, one for the large. You're almost certainly on the small rotor setup, so getting a knuckle that fits would require you to find a car with the 'smaller' rotors at the junkyard. But needing to replace such is extremely rare. But if you need to, they're not too hard to pull from the junkyard with hand tools (and that Harbor Freight ball joint separator tool). I pulled one last weekend for my car to upgrade to the bigger brake setup. You'll need a T60 socket (get a 1/2" one) and a big breaker bar to remove the caliper brackets. And of course you'll need the tools associated with a front strut change on those cars. Ask me anything about the job (just got done doing it today for the 3rd time), but you will need some pretty advanced skills to do it, and access to a proper shop-grade spring compressor. Those el-cheapo spring compressors, while possible to do the job with such (I did it twice), are a giant PITA and you're much better off having a shop do the actual compression portion of the job. While you're in there, check the ball joints, if they need replacing its far easier to drill/grind the rivets off the car, then on. edit: if you're just replacing the spring seats, then the rotors/calipers don't need to come off. But if you have to swap everything to a new knuckle, which is what I had the displeasure of doing today, then it all has to come apart... edit: BTW, welcome to the forum. Great bunch of people here... I admit, I practically stole a mint condition Honda a few months ago, but the economics of driving my 1992 W-body still can't be beat.. edit: pictures attached are what happens in northern Montana in the middle of nowhere when those spring seats catastrophically fail due to corrosion-induced weakening. I was coming back from DC, so it was at the tail end of a very long drive... Note the GM powder coating. Newer parts are painted. edit: Where I live, they rarely use salt on the roads and there's almost no rust on the rest of the car... So corrosion of those parts can definitely occur prior to the rest of the car being a rustbucket. Standard DoT/DMV inspections most likely will not detect the problem. My car went through inspection multiple times with nobody ever saying anything to me. edit: no alignment required after all of this.... As you're not altering any alignable components.
  24. So $35 at the junkyard later (all covered in mud as the car was basically surrounded in a big puddle of mud), I have all the parts... And an extra wheel bearing thrown in for fun! What a PITA those caliper bracket bolts are... fr edit: fixed the 'bad' side... wow, even with half the front braking system at the "new" spec, the braking performance is way better... Thanks @Dark Ride for encouraging me to upgrade...
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