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About WillCut

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  1. ugh... I just routed out my plastic bar and installed new style switches!
  2. MemphisMan, Thanks for the confirmation. That gave me the incentive to pull the back seats to try and find the harnesses. I pulled the side panels out since my driver side rear window wouldn't roll down. Gave that sucker a smack with a hammer and all is well. Luckily they didn't hack up the harness too much. I still have the aftermarket starter in there but if I can figure out how to get the !#@$# HVAC system to work than its useless and I'll have to find an RKE from the junkyard. I modified the light bar on the basket handle to use a different switch. A little dremel action and a couple of latch switches and all my lights work with LEDs now I figure they would generate less heat and warp the bar that much less... holy crap those switches did NOT fare well! everything is all warped... these cars sure are interesting!
  3. So is this where the RKE module is supposed to live? there is a couple of screw holes just to the left of the power top pump. If so, mines a goner. Does the wiring harness go down the back of the seats? I didn't feel like pulling them but I will if that's where they go down. I hope they didn't slash the connector off.
  4. I just got these... if there is something else I should get I am all ears...
  5. I pulled the glove box looking for the auto door lock do-dad but wasnt there. I did find a funky soldered jumper on a pink wire that is wired to fuse #39. I recalled that I seen a stripped pink wire under the dash. so I followed it to the stripped portion and sure enough they make continuity. This pink wire runs through a ribbon cable up the steering column. I pulled the airbags/stereo controls and the fuse kept popping... Then I remembered that when I first looked under the dash that the plug for the second brake switch (I think its for the cruse control?!?!) was unplugged... so I plugged it back in... well, I pulled that sucker and both ends of the plug make continuity to the pink wire. I am at a loss but since I've pulled the connector back out it seems to have resolved the issue. The first pic shows the pink wire jumpered with orange and black. the second shows under the dash with the stripped pink wire circled in red, the brake switch connector in blue. The yellow is a wire I added for the brake to the starter.
  6. I thought it must have crept up and that is why I reversed everything I did and the starter. I cant for the life of me figure this out. What the heck is the " Sensing and Diagnostic Module" is that for the airbag? I've already disconnected that under the seat. Guess ill have to pull out the glove box to pull out the automatic door lock module next.
  7. yes, it is the " I/P ELECTRONICS IGNITION FEED ". I have already pulled the aftermarket starter, my radio (just in case), the dash, the headlamp light switch.....
  8. Anyone know if the RKE module controls the door lock when the car is put in gear? To blow fuse #39 I can: 1) put car in reverse, the doors will lock. 2) press the unlock while still in reverse. Doors will open 3) pull out of driveway 4) as soon as I put the car into drive the fuse will pop. it sounds like the door is trying to re-lock but fuse blows. I've tried unlocking/locking the door like 20 times and that doesnt blow the fuse. This car is weird! I wouldn't care if that fuse didnt take out my damn tach and worse of all the damn chime will go off if you turn the lights on (with the car running!)
  9. Blackstone does oil analysis, I hope they can tell me if the lower intake manifold gasket is going. The previous owner passed and I bought it 3rd party so I have no history other than carfax. The coolant is green and the car seems to be fairly well taken care of with only 66k on it (the carfax suggests no funny stuff). So I'm hoping they don't tell me there is any coolant in my oil or anything funky. I don't know much of these 3.4's but that LIM scares me! Ill start getting some pics up soon. This weekend we are heading out of town so maybe on Sunday. The 63 is a weird car with a unique v215 aluminum engine! I just pulled the crappy trans and put a 4 speed in it but need to finish a hump now. I hope to have the new burlwood done soon, I had them re-do my bad choice of film with the one your guy identified so it should be much better!
  10. Oh you bet I seen your HUD! that thing is awesome! I didn't know the 3.4 DOHC's were all pre-wired for it. I might have thought about doing it myself but I got enough on my plate for now. I got the car for fairly cheap so I'm trying to fix her up and would keep her for a summer daily. I have a 63 cutlass for the special occasions I've sent the oil off to blackstone to see if I can figure out of the LIM was already done or not. Its not as nice looking as yours and I would have never liked that color combo before but after seeing yours I just couldnt pass this car up. I still have the console and convert switch if someone down the road needs a replacement.
  11. RKE solder fix? I'll have to look that up. RKE Module topic I thought that even if I had an aftermarket starter that the old RKE should still work. Is that the silver box mounted under the console? My car is crazy - its popping fuse #39 now, I've disabled everything I've even touched or looked at. Stereo, the cluster, this light switch (below with convertible top switch). Ugh... guess ill look under the console again, I had that cover removed when I was looking at how to hydrographics the thing...
  12. Its not the RKE box but thanks for the heads up. So, to beat this dead horse. I have the car starter working but it is not turning on the ac or heater. In another thread I see someone identified a purple and white wire being a second accessory which I assumed that needed to be used with the accessory out on my starter (only one accessory out). HOWEVER, the wiring documentation (attached) suggests only ONE accessory line for the 1995. Can anyone give me a definitive answer if there are two accessory lines or not? right now the accessory output on the remote starter is tapped to the orange accessory in the car and works the stereo but the climate controls are not turning on. Id like to get this working so I can put the dash back together OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME 1991-1997.pdf
  13. Thank you for the diagram. I tapped into the tach on the dash instead of drilling through the firewall and that worked. White wire. I could not get the damn cluster out however. omg - who designed that setup?!?! is there some weird trick? Do you have to lower the damn steering column? anyhow. I got it all working and put a resistor for the VATs and everything starts fine now.... Of course with one exception... the !@#$!$% heat/ac do not work. I'm assuming the tapped into the wrong accessory line. Do these cars have 1 ignition and 2 accessories? Also, what is the favored book of the forum for these cars? Edit: Digging further I see there are two accessories. Orange and Purple with a white stripe. Apparently the Purple/White is the climate control. Does anyone know if I should just move the started 12v out from the orange to the Purple/White? I dont really care if the stereo starts or not or do I need a relay from orange to purple/white? Thanks!
  14. I don't have the manual. I any suggestions on the best one for this car? I have read the forums that there is a white wire (or purple) going to to the cluster that is tach but I was hoping to tap it lower and to not have to go outside the firewall.
  15. I rebuilt my antenna. the plastic cable broke in the the middle, you could hear the motor was working however. So I just bought I had to open up part of the assembly to get the rest of the old cord out. they kinda use a plastic seal like rivets on that part... I popped off the 4 corners, fixed it all and then used a soldering iron to melt the four plastic rivets down to hold the case again. But yeah, wheres the darn tach wire so I can hook up my auto starter?!?! lol
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