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JohnRyan

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  1. JohnRyan

    1997 grand prix intro

    so far there is no play, I can even get a wrench under it and there's no "shifting" to speak of. the road going around here doesn't get a lot of attention and there's quite the many "bumps" and holes and yet this is holding up. I'm still concerned about longevity and will be running this thing just in circles for now. just incase it does start to show some wear, then replace the cradle I will. for now My next issue is the fuel gauge does not work. I am not really sure about the issue, only the gauge cluster is having " a few issues" the tach and the fuel gauge are running the same type of electric "motor" I swap them to find that the gas "motor" doesn't work at all. and now neither does my tach. I may switch to a different gauge cluster entirely, they are seemly cheap to get. I was wondering if there's a specific way the needles need to be reset, I just set them at "0" and then pulled, which my mph is working just fine, and even verified with gps that it is accurate. any reason for the motor, that was primary for the tach to stop working when I used it for the fuel level. or maybe something is surging the line that caused it to short the motor. someone said that I need to replace the fuel pump, but the pump is working fine, what instrument determines gas levels, because I can't find the part on any site.
  2. JohnRyan

    1997 grand prix intro

    yeah that pretty much sums it up, although my pump is still whining, and I have maybe a half an inch of play, maybe less. but its definitely not perfect alignment, maybe my bushings on the other side are worn out due to stress from driving it like that. I want to get in there with more epoxy and fill the inside of the subframe. but that bracket is not moving, atleast on the bottom. it might still be able to shift on top though. i'm not driving this car right now, it still has a way to go before it feels "safe"
  3. JohnRyan

    1997 grand prix intro

    I got a nice question. there is a slight "wobble" in my steering once I let go on the wheel. I think this is because the bolt I used Is still too long, I cut it down yet its still hanging the rack up by a couple of "mm"s the bolt is pressing in the top of the bush housing of the rack, is there a wire, that I can use to "saw the bolt down, in this such a small space, or when Thursday rolls around I can detach the bolt again and saw it with an electric saw again, and then epoxy the small gap and then clamp it down, just for safety measure. what's the best glue to us, and maybe a file to eat the paint off so it will bond. OR take it to an exhaust shop so it can be properly welded. that is once I get it road legal again. or do all three. ?? EDit: I had to detach the bolt, and saw it off as low as I could. It is as perfect as tight as could be now, completely filed the paint away and put an epoxy in every gap and then tighten all the way up. should be no play now, unless the bushings are worn out, I will leave this up on jacks until tomorrow it completely cures. they assured me that this bolt should not break. and with the added strength of a two-part metal epoxy I think it should not break again.
  4. JohnRyan

    1997 grand prix intro

    back to you. why anteater analogy? I also need a cv axel. my passenger side boot is ripped. still has grease in it, yet I think its making some noise when I hit bumps.
  5. JohnRyan

    1997 grand prix intro

    to be updated, this is what it took. about 100 dollars in parts. 21 dollars for two cobalt drill bits,$17 crow's feet wrenches, $5 two steel tabs, 14 inches.$27 A new hose. had to use a custom bolt $4, then had to cut the bolt shorter to make the gap in-between the bracket that held the rack down. I ended up drilling three holes, before I got the alignment right. also I didn't even use the metal tabs, I just used the bolt through the bottom of the frame with washers. was a serious pain in the a**. side note, the hose I got was a near perfect match, but the end going into my rack was more curved inward the a straight 90* this one was, could hardly get the thing to seat properly, plus I bend it slightly, I kept using small amounts of pressure with a 24mm wrench at slightly different points. I did finally got it all together and bled with fluid, drove it around the block, with a considerable amount of steering whining. I need to flush old fluid and residue out. but for now, I don't know the strength of the one bolt through the frame, with the top being like it is. it didn't even force the steering rack completely down, but it is solid as an ox. No steering play what-so-ever. this was a two day project. with the first just being disassembly a skeptic drawings. it was a very tight space to work with. maybe I could get this together "backyard repair" and maybe it will help someone one day, instead of replacing the entire frame. darn expensive. plus the 30 dollar jack stands.. for safety of course. I also had good rigrid drill with battery. I could see this repair exceeding hundreds of dollars at a shop, if not a thousand. I do have power assist now for the first time in five years. so don't go driving without it, or this could happen to you.
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