UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

James Robert

Members
  • Content Count

    104
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

James Robert last won the day on December 12 2018

James Robert had the most liked content!

About James Robert

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Palm Desert, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I must respectfully disagree. 1. Starter motors are cheap. 2. I've never seen "wear" on a flywheel ring, and 3. cranking does not add wear to rings, cylinder walls, bearings, cam 'n' lifters, etc. But, yes, I've found synthetic oils can reduce wear on cold starts.
  2. It just seems too eager to fire up. I guess I shouldn't complain, but it just revves right up with a short turn of the key, and then drops down. I just don't like the fact that the RPMs jump so fast, so soon. I know that's probably normal, but I would prefer a less enthusiastic start, since most bearing wear occurs on initial startup. On my early cars with carbureted automatic chokes, I would crank them for 8-10 seconds before setting the choke, just to build some oil pressure. I still like the idea of an auxiliary electric oil pump, that could be switched on for a few seconds before starting an engine, to prevent dry bearing starts. But then, I digress….
  3. Is 1500 RPM too high for cold idle on 3.4 DOHC? I really don't like the little rattle I hear for that fraction of a second before oil pressure builds when first starting my car from cold. Is there a way to lower the fast idle?
  4. I tried there and looked at hundreds of clips in their catalog, but couldn't find the one I need.
  5. That's why I take them off before I let anyone else touch my lug nuts (pardon the sexual innuendo) I don't want overzealous tire jockeys using impact wrenches on these delicate cosmetic parts!
  6. That would be great, thanks
  7. Yes NOS are expensive. I had a couple missing and bought the cheap aftermarket gray ones and painted them silver. They look good but don't fit quite right.
  8. Got new Yokohamas and rear brakes on the '95 Convertible. Drives nice. The old tires had only 8000 miles on them but were 12 years old, cracked and stiff. Still have to put the lug caps on.
  9. These are what I need. I think I only need two, if you have any to spare.
  10. Yes, the clips in the area where I have put the arrow. You should be able to get the cladding loose by taking just the first couple of nuts off the very bottom. I would be most appreciative if you could retrieve those for me. I'll be glad to pay you for your efforts of course.
  11. I won't be able to get the pics until tomorrow, but I got these from a '94 GP, thinking they would work, but they don't. The ones I need are similar, but are a little longer, with two holes instead of one.
  12. I'll post a picture soon. I'll have to take off the door cladding to get to it for a photo. I need two of them, I think, the cladding ends by the back wheels have pulled away from the body. I can't find any Cutlasses in the junk yards near me and the yards I've called outside my area are not interested in selling these little pieces.
  13. I'm missing a couple of the slide on clips for the '93-'96? Cutlass Supreme plastic body cladding. These are the ones that hook into two metal pins in the doors and also rear fender. Anybody have any spares or know where they can be purchased?
  14. That's pretty cool. I remember years ago, the tirerack website had a simple wheel visualizer, but you had to use their stock model car images. You could pick the body color.
  15. Thanks. Just as I'm thinking I'm making headway, I now notice a big puddle of transmission fluid under the car! Fix one thing and something else goes wrong......
×
×
  • Create New...