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About Taper123

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  1. Taper123

    LQ1 Timing belt

    Work had me out of town for a week, and busy the week before. Finally ordered the parts to get this back on the road. Now for the hard part... cleaning out space in the garage. I've been needing to clean it for a while.
  2. Taper123

    LQ1 Timing belt

    Yup... definitely looks like a belt issue
  3. Taper123

    LQ1 Timing belt

    Thanks for the replies. Going to start making a parts list and get these items ordered. Figure while I'm at it, it's been dripping oil so I'll see where the it's coming from. Only other issue I have with the car.. is the power window switch on the drivers side doesn't always want to work for the drivers window. Anyone know where I could get a new one (four windows, it's a four door) if not I might be able to drill out the rivets and clean it up and reassemble.
  4. Taper123

    LQ1 Timing belt

    Searched the internet... and it appears that the 93 was a non-interfering engine. Was on way home from a 200 mile trip, and was slowing down for a curve (about 20 mph) and suddenly lost all power. Literally under 2 miles from my driveway. Now to search for good writeups / videos on what I need to do. Any suggestions on parts to use? Engine actually just turned... 60k miles on this trip.
  5. Taper123

    LQ1 Timing belt

    Have a 93 Lumina euro with the 3.4 Looks like my timing belt decided to tear itself up on me while driving. Does this engine have valve reliefs so that it did not bend the valves? Had a old Chrysler you could shred all the belts you wanted, just realign and put on a new belt. A honda though... it bent almost every valve. SO wanted to know if I'm in for a belt change/timing or much much more.
  6. Gotta love forums like this. Found a diagram of all the vaccum lines WIring colors\connections for the factory stereo harness. Torque values. How to remove plenum to gain access to rear valve cover Saved me some time, and good quality information. Went to change the rear three plugs, and first one when I pulled off the connector, it was covered in oil. Pushed it back on.. and will do the rear valve cover gaskets this weekend after seeing pics on here of how to get to it. Ordered a new connector for the o2, a new set of plug wires as one was melted a bit too, and new brake pads. A vacuum line to the brake booster was replaced with a hose by a mechanic about a month before I got the car. Looks like there is a bracket that supported the vacuum lines and plug wires. Found it hanging behind the engine instead of being fastened where it should. Car is running really good, and I want to take care of the few remaining leaks and known things before making a road trip. Hoping the vacuum diagram I found that it'll be something simple like another dry rotted connector for the hvac system. It randomly blows air out of the dash, or switches to the defrost... but if you accelerate hard, it blows cold air on your feet.
  7. Replaced the rubber vacuum elbows and the front valve cover gaskets. Runs so much better now. Going to do rear plugs tomorrow, and hope no leaks on that valve cover. #2 had about a half inch of oil in it from te valve cover spark plug gasket/o-ring. Oxygen sensor connection seems like it's working, even if it melted some. It's the connector the oxygen sensor plugs into that had the damage on it. Finding a wiring harness for it might be a challenge, so ill at least put some shrink tubing on it. Noticed after changing front plugs and some vacuum fittings it starts so much easier and has plenty of power again. For an older 4 door sedan... it's what I'd call a sleeper car. Doesn't look like t has the performance that it does. Can anyone point me to a schematic for the drivers side door panel window controls? three out of four windows work, drivers window is intermittent as to if it will go down. Need to wash and wax it and post some pics next.
  8. Ordered a new set of valve cover gaskets, and made a list of the various vacuum fittings. Almost everyone of them cracked in my hand with a slight squeeze. That should be all I need to have the engine running good and stop the oil leaks. Inspection is due, and tires have great tread.. but are dry rotted. Looked up the date code, and they are 18 years old. According to Wikipedia.. there were only 3489 Lumina sedans with the LQ1 engine made in 1993. (
  9. It's the number 2 cylinder that had oil in it from the upper valve cover gasket. Here's a pic of it. The wire in the back is a challenge to get to. If I took off the upper intake manifold, would be easier to fix, and make changing the rear plugs simpler. That's just my opinion, as I have no manual and am simply guessing.
  10. Figure it might be related to the vacuum line connections being old and brittle, but AC wants to blow out of the defrost or floor sometimes. Funny... coming out of dash like normal until you hit 80, then it switches to the floor. Drop below 70 and it switches back to the dash. Never had to mess with that aspect of a vehicle before, any suggestions on where to start?
  11. Sounds good. I changed the front three plugs today and it ran super smooth after that. The oil is coming from the valve cover gasket. Hit it with some compressed air...and oil went everywhere. Local auto parts place didn't have a gasket in stock, so I'll search online and order one along with vacuum lines. Back three plugs look like a challenge to get out. Car was a family members. She kept it in the garage, and bought it brand new. I'm the second owner for it... Torch red euro lumina 3.4
  12. New here. Picked up a 1993 Lumina Euro with the 3.4 lq1 engine. It has almost 45k miles on it, and spent most of it's life in a garage so everything looks really nice. Ran great for a bit, but having a few issues lately, and figured this might be a good forum, or someone can point me to one. It started running rough so I took a look under the hood. I see one of the vacuum lines had been replaced, and a wiring harness not properly put back in place (single purple wire connection). Connection is cooked from being against engine. Several elbows on vacuum lines cracked with finger pressure. One of the front spark plugs has oil in the cylinder well. I'm thinking replace most anything rubber on the vacuum lines as age has made them brittle. Need to track down what the cooked wire connector goes to, and see where the oil is coming from. I'm betting these are the original plugs. I put 3k miles on it since I got it. Nice car though... so I want to make it run smooth again.
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