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About metallic95

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  • Birthday 08/11/1996

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  1. Sorry for the late reply, yeah I think I might just drop by HF and get some calipers lol. I couldn't find any info about the energy suspension bushings cross reference, I'm gonna call them and ask if they can refer me to the current part number.
  2. Mines is a 1995 3.1L. Yeah, if I could know the size that'd be great!
  3. Awesome, thanks for the reply. I'll definitely be doing that next, it steers so much nicer with the new ball joints already. I'm not sure what size sway bar mine has though, rockauto lists like 5 different bushing sizes for the inners. Is the VIN number any good for that or do I have to go and grab some dial calipers lol?
  4. Hey guys, Haven't been on in a while, fixing too many things on other cars and just trying to catch up on maintenance with the cutlass lol. I just finished up the wonderful process of drilling out rivets and replacing the original ball joints. I threw in some new outer sway bar bushings while I was in there, but the inner sway bar bushings don't look too hot. The service manual says that the bar needs to be completely removed, but it looks like I can just unbolt the clamp and pop it off since it has a slit on it. Anyone managed to change them without removing the sway bar? I did a search but I couldn't find any writeups on it. Thanks!
  5. Okay, so actually the driver side fan will turn on about halfway between the 3/4 mark and 200, and then the temp goes back down to 200. Is the passenger side fan only for heavy duty cooling? Fortunately I did manage to get the air out; I cracked open the bleeders while running until coolant started running out. I did this twice and then I took it for a short drive. The bubbles stopped coming into the overflow tank, and the heater is nice and hot. So do you guys normally see the temp gauge go past 200, then back down again? The only other thing I can think of is the car got a nice tap on the front by a piece of crap granted the ability of speech. No mechanical damage, but the air baffle behind the grille got pretty mashed up, along with the lip of the hood. Is this air baffle critical? Would it reduce the efficiency during stop and go traffic?
  6. Whoops, sorry I triple posted. I thought it wasen't submitting the thread. If a mod could close the other 2, that'd be great.
  7. Hello guys, Off to troubleshoot another issue with the cutlass. When I drive it on the highway or in town, the temperature typically stays under 200. Recently, I noticed when I'm idling in heavy traffic, the temperature starts to climb past 200. I got really nervous when it almost hit the 3/4 mark on the gauge and didn't seem to be going back down. I ran the heater and the traffic cleared up so the car didn't overheat, but it's never done this before so I know something has come up. My family uses this car extensively and I can't have it down for too long. I let it idle in my garage after a short drive, and it will start going past 200 with the fans not kicking in. I'm 99% sure the fans usually kicked in before halfway on the gauge. I have the service manual and I know that they kick in past 200 (212 for fan 1 IIRC), but I remember the fan coming on if you let idle long enough and the temp approaches 200. If I turn the A/C on, fan 2 will turn on. When the temp was in between halfway and the 3/4 mark, the fan still did not come on. Does this sound like a fan issue? It can idle for a few minutes in traffic without the temp climbing, but if it stays put for 10 minutes or more I believe thats when it started going past 200. I switched the fan relays and then ran the A/C, and fan 2 still came on, so I'm inclined to say the relays are not the issue. I checked for voltage where the relay plugs in, and I find 12v at both fan relay 1 and 2, even though the key is turned ON, but the engine is not running. Why would there be voltage present at the relays even when the engine is not running? Is there a better diagnostic test I can do the make sure the fans are working? I recognize that there are either 2 possibilities: either the motor is dead or the fan is not getting any power. The service manual makes reference of a 30 amp maxi-fuse for fan 1, however I can find no such fuse in the fuse box. On a side note, I just finished up a coolant flush on it (coolant was never changed by the PO), and I'm still getting bubbles in the overflow reservoir. I followed the fill procedure to the letter; I had both bleeders open, I added coolant until it started running out from the bleeders, then I shut them. I closed the radiator cap, and when I ran the engine every now and then I see a small bubble enter the reservoir. There are no deposits on the oil cap or dipstick, so I know it's not the head gasket. I'm hoping the intake gaskets are not the reason for this. Is there a better way the bleed the system? Should I try to open the bleeders while it's running? Sorry for the wall of text - any help is much appreciated.
  8. Well, I went there today to see what I could get. Nope, nothing. None of the older gm cars I looked at had remotely similar cupholders, and the ones that would have had them were already taken, go figure! Guess I'll try another junkyard.
  9. Hey guys, It would seem that I have broke my cup holder in my 1995 cutlass supreme 4 door for the second freaking time. I lean down to check something under the dash, and boom, my elbow accidentally rested on the edge of it and broke off the hinge piece. I already replaced it once, but it was from a Buick rendezvous, which brings me to my main question. Which cars have an identical cup holder? The one I got ended up looking almost the same, but had a small lip near the hinge which prevented the armrest from clicking shut with it folded out. Hopefully I can replace it, this time with the right one. Also the pick your part near me is having a 40% off sale, so I'm having a field day this weekend For example, this one does not have that lip, it's completely flat near the mounting posts. This one does have the lip: On a side note, I swear to god everything in all my cars is made of fine china. They're all 20+years old so that's to be expected, but still, it'd be nice to take something out that didn't break or wasn't unobtainium, which is everything. Just look at a panel funny, and all the tabs break simultaneously while also laughing your pathetic attempts to improve things. Also I'll be making an introduction about myself soon once I take some pictures of the family fleet.
  10. Yeah, if you could do that that'd be great! It'd be nice to knock off an item off my very, very long list of repairs to do.
  11. Oh well, thanks anyways. I guess it's down to the fiery pits of hell, aka a junkyard. I need to go there anyways, I need some other things for my other cars. Just hope I don't break it taking it off.
  12. Hey guys, A couple of months ago I was diagnosing a interior water leak. In the wonderful process of exploration, I tried taking off the right rear sail panel to get a closer leak at the leak area. Man, this thing was on tight. I was using a trim removal tool set too. I ended up cracking the lip of it, and I still couldn't get it off. I eventually fixed the leak without removing it, but every time I look at it I get bummed out. I think there's 1 screw holding the bottom of it in,and a screw near the ceiling hook, but the rest of it should just clip in right? Anyways, I was wondering if I could get one from a 1995 lumina. Do they have the same sail panels? If so, do the colors match up? My car is a 1995 cutlass supreme with a grey interior. Thanks!
  13. It's a little hard to tell from the video, but I think it sounds like an issue I had with my Cutlass a few years back. Turned out to be the water pump going out. To confirm, you can try taking the belt off and spinning each of the pulleys fast by hand and see if you can replicate the noise.
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