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bluecalais79

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Everything posted by bluecalais79

  1. Thanks for this, I'll be looking for that, but unfortunately not until next Spring. We just got dumped with 14 inches of snow, so all projects are off. Darn.
  2. In my quest to convert my interior from beige to black, I scored a really nice black (graphite) console lid off the 1995 4 door I just grabbed some parts off of before it got sent off to the crusher. This lid is mint and I'd like to swap out my beige one for it. Trouble is, it prior owner busted the plastic hinge that holds it onto the console body. I want to swap both lids by just unscrewing the padded piece from the busted plastic piece underneath it, but does anyone know the trick to getting out the rear screw, it's not accessible while on the console and I don't want to break my hinge in my console. It seems I will have to remove the whole lid but I will abandon the whole gig if I risk breaking my hinge
  3. Up in my area they are past the junkyard stage and are all but gone. I used to see a red CS on my way to work but that was a few years ago. I saw a white CS like mine on I-84 a few months ago but it was really rough. I just nabbed a power seat track, the front leather seats and some other odd parts off a 1995 4 door that was about to be junked. That car had only 77,000 miles on it but was sold to a millennial who ran it into the ground and as the car blew a head gasket off to the yard it went. I felt bad parting it but it truly was too late to save it. I will say mine is turning out to now get some attention, I have the classic plates on it and I do get some thumbs up when I drive it to and from work. Not bad for $1800 on e bay.
  4. Thanks, I'll go with the cheap pads idea, man they really shedded their skin on me. The rotors were replaced when I sunk all that dough into making the car right and driveable 2 years ago. This car has been GREAT. I will sorely miss driving it while it is laid up for the winter. No issues with the intake manifold gaskets. Yet. Next spring I may get the front end rebuilt as the lower control arms, etc were rusty when I got the car and that was 2 years and 20,000 miles ago. That's 20,000 miles that didn't go on my truck, preserving the warrantee. A total win.
  5. I just got done yesterday setting up/laying up my 96 Cutlass for the winter, which will not be driven up here in CT until next April, probably. I replaced my refurbished 5 spokes with a very used set of sawblades and 15 year old snow tires. They still hold air so they will do while the car is under a cover until the spring. What I noticed though, the rear pads have an incredible amount of wear on them already, these pads are only less than 20,000 miles old (!). I am resigned to the fact they are going to need to be replaced next Spring. I guess that's probably normal for the rears. Is there any possibility on getting a larger rotor/caliper set up installed for the rear discs? These rear discs just seem awfully small for a 3300 pound car. Thanks, any braking tips/upgrade advise would be appreciated, this car brakes terrible.
  6. Thanks for this, what you mention is what I'm anticipating seeing there once I remove the manual seats currently in the car. The carpet slit is there, the plug has to be there hidden somewhere, I just need to find it. That wiring being there though, is worth the price of admission. As an aside, the lack of fold forward in the 2 seats I pulled will probably keep me from just plopping them into the car. I may put in the drivers side only. Even though almost no one ever sits in the back, it is still a safety issue if a time came where exiting the car quickly is needed. I could break down one or both of my seats and the ones I got and swap these parts out but why bother, too much work.
  7. Thanks, got em there where they should be, it's looking good. I poked a flashlight and placed a mirror behind the fuse box and I was able to see the wires. I need to get in there but I only want to do this job once as I'm going to have to break the plastic fasteners holding the carpeted pieces under the glove box and also remove the glove box itself (if I need to do any wiring). I will need to get some replacement fasteners. When I pull all this stuff I am going to expect to see an orange wire running from behind the grey junction box toward and down under the floor carpet, that'll be the wire to the seat. Would make life easier. But, if it's not there I will need to get my hands on a 1996 manual so I can see the schematics and place in the orange wire I got from the parts car into the right place on the junction box. I'll have to buy a correct end pin that will push into the plug/fastener on the junction box or something like that. I think they are available on e bay. I'm going to make this work one way or another but I'm about to put the car away for the winter, it'll have to be next year.
  8. Thanks, that's probably why I'm more than likely going to swap out the power seat track with my seat. I did find this out though. I just got my 1996 Advanced Note Sales brochure and you could factory order a power seat in a Series III car. So, I opened the fuse plate on the right side of the dash and sure enough there is a 30A Circuit breaker in place for a power seat and there's an orange wire running from it in the direction of the junction box. So, my next task is to see if there's the right orange wire running from out behind the junction box down toward the right side of the dash toward the plastic conduit running along the door opening. If there is, I'm golden. I'll just shake it a bit and try and hear where the other end plug end is. I'm thinking it's tucked in somewhere under the carpet maybe by the back of the console. I snagged enough wiring off the parts car yesterday to get almost to the junction box so it's a win either way.
  9. Yesterday I obtained a mint condition set of graphite front bucket seats out of a 1995 4 door CS. My primary objective for getting these seats actually was to get the power seat track as my Series III 1996 (2 door) CS lacks this option. I was able to get the orange wiring almost up to the junction box but unfortunately I had to cut it due to lack of time. I felt in the slit under my seat hoping I would find a power seat plug but there isn't one there. Be it this is a Series III car I figured that would be the case. My question is, does anyone how I can re-configure the lead wire to make this set up work? Would I be able to just bypass the junction box and place the wire directly into the fuse panel where it's proper breaker is? Or, since I'm not to picky and can live with the seat working when the car's ignition is off, is there another correct gauge wire I can tap into to make it work. One thing I will not be doing is routing the wire behind the console-behind the backseat-along the passengers side to the junction box/fuse panel. I will instead route the wire along the driver's side and travel it under the dash to the box/panel. Perhaps there's something along the way with a correct gauge wire I can tap into? I am used to the wiring style found in my 79's, a plug on each end and you're done. I was really disappointed to find the setup for the newer cars is hardwired into the junction box. I didn't want to butcher anything under there any more than I did, the car is going to be junked tomorrow and I didn't want to risk messing up the deal the scrapper might have with the car's owner. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thx Also, I'll say again, these seats are MINT! I haven't even cleaned them yet and they really pop. I got all of this stuff plus a few extra small stuff for $50 so I consider this to be the deal of the year.
  10. I own a very similar CS to the one you just described here in CT. I installed a rear lip spoiler & correct tail lights but getting back to your post, I've seen just one other one on the road in this area over the last few months, another white one. Sad.
  11. Gone! Man that was quick. It was on Craigslist, a dealer out in ohio somewhere
  12. Looks like a dealer bought it and it trying to double their money
  13. Oh s hit I wish this were on the east coast. It would cost $2000 to get it here. Dang. This is exactly what I'm looking for, low mileage white CS convertible to match my white 1996 CS 2 dr hard top. Retiring to South Carolina in a few years, this is a perfect car for there. White and a 1995. Wife hates anything older due to the seat belt design (she is very short) so my options are severely limited. And it looks like your drivers seat is in really nice shape to boot
  14. Thanks, I have a 1996, probably similar, I'll check it out
  15. What is the official name of this book? This was great information, can you post a picture of the front cover. I'm going to Hershey 10/11 and I'd like to see about picking one up. My back rear drivers side window leaks into the trunk and I'm needing to know the way to get the trim off so I can re-caulk the side & back window. thx
  16. You are spot on for the 22 on the other side, it won't work. I kept a very watchful eye on the sweep and the 22'' on the passengers side won't come into contact with the drivers side but that's the extent of it. Beside, now that I'm back home I'll work on grabbing a set per Rich_e777's note. No sense in tempting fate with the current oddball sizes on the car now.
  17. It's worth every dime, even if the shipping is more expensive. Put one of these on your CS and you will never go back. HUGE improvement in the ride!
  18. Just got back from putting about 1000 miles on my 1996 Cutlass, my only issue was my purchase of buying cheap RainX windshield wipers came back to haunt me. The passengers side blade just wouldn't stay put and kept popping off. In a pinch I used what I had, a 22 inch Michelin wiper, and although the manual calls for 20 inch on both sides, this 22 inch works so well I'm leaving it on. It j-u-s-t fits in the wiper well in the cowl (a drivers side 22" won't fit there) and I get the benefit of 1 inch more wipe on each side of the blade. So for now it's 20" drivers, 22" passengers side.
  19. All good advice, thanks. Maybe I'll put it one for say a long trip and then remove it once I get there. However, These things are a bit of a pain to install, just as well leave it in the box for the next swap meet & sell it.
  20. Excellent points both, and it would hide the Oldsmobile emblem as well
  21. Over the winter I bought an NOS in the box genuine Le Bra for my white 1996 Cutlass (2 door). I got it at such a good price I couldn't pass it up. Anyone out there think it's a bad Idea to install one of these things? It says it wicks away any moisture which is a plus, but who knows. I'm in the Northeast so built up humidity is an issue. I'm on the fence as to whether I'm going to install it. One plus is that out of all the paint on the car, the front bumper is the weakest and the Le Bra would hide that quite nicely. It would really freshen it up.
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