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sgjii

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About sgjii

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 11/29/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lancaster, OH
  • Interests
    80's VW / Porsche / Audi
    Computers & Electronics
    and of course W Bodies :)
  1. To touch on your original question (regardless of what was wrong with the car), Lead-Acid automotive batteries can be refurbished in a MacGyver kind of way. I cannot stress enough the dangers of battery acid, using eye protection and the explosion hazards inherent when screwing around with car batteries. My little disclaimer that you need to do your own research and decide for yourself what is right, safe and will work for you. I end with "Don't try this at home kids!" this is for informational purposes only. Drain the acid, neutralize with baking soda and distilled water & rinse thoroughly. Make a solution with Distilled Water & Epsom Salt and refill the battery. Then slow charge for 24hrs on a 2A manual charger to start bringing it up. My understanding of the process is to de-sulfinate the plates in the cells. Google up "car battery epsom salt" for tons of links and YouTube videos. I have personally tried this 3 times. First time, breathed about 9months extra life into the original battery my 2010 Silverado came with. Still always felt the battery was weak. Second time, revived a 5yr old Exide branded battery in a Ford Ranger. Tested out perfect. Best of my knowledge it is still in service 18months later. I sold the Ranger and see it around town all the time. Third time, nill, nauda, nothing. Did not work on the battery that was in the 92 Olds when I bought it. Never got better than 6 or 8 Volts and no current to speak of. I plan to try again with a 2yr old lawn mower battery...
  2. First time to find the forum but not my first time into Ws. It all started in 1999 with a 1993 Cutlass Supreme Convertible 3.4L, Red, White Top over Graphite Leather. It caught my eye on a local lot and the price was right for my first convertible. Next was a snazzy (new to me) 1997.5 Regal GS in about 2000. I saw it on the lot and was shocked at the price, which I thought was "giving it away" for its 30K-ish miles and excellent condition. 3800SC and it was a sleeper. One of my Top10 favorite cars I have owned. A few years later in 2009 and with my love of my first GS, I bought a 2000 Regal GS. 3yrs later, ended up selling it and buying a new 13 Chevrolet Cruze. I was looking for a change and had enjoyed them as rental cars. Next was a 1996 Olds Cutlass Supreme Coupe in dark green. Originally bought it for a step daughter's first car but ended up putting 36K on it before she ever got it. Did a lot of brake, suspension, neglected fluids and maintenance to it. Previous owner had already done LIM, heads & gaskets so the heavy lifting in the engine bay was complete. Unfortunately, she was the end of that car... In September 2015 I picked up my most recent W Body project, another Cutlass Supreme. This time a Gold 1992 Supreme S with the older 3.1L. It had 144K miles new tires a few "scabs" on the rockers but amazing little rust and original paint. I bought it as "it just quit running on the freeway". I gambled $600 that it would be a crank sensor, ignition or fuel pump as my best guesses. NOPE, broken timing chain... With cheap Rockauto parts options, I put a chain kit in but of course, no compression on cylinders 2 & 4... At this point $400 worth of heads wasn't in the column of stuff I was dying to buy. Tried to sell as a project with no interest, considered the scrap yard and then just let it sit until Jan 2017. I then came across a small machine shop that was closing due to retirement and he had a Reman'ed set of the correct heads on the shelf. They were a customer abandon from 6years earlier. $50 later I had a new project. Blah, Blah, Blah, fixed, running, fluids, brakes, etc. I am now 2000 miles down the road. Saturday, I somehow lost the only keys between the curbside street parking and my own house. I have been turning things upside since and have decided they aren't turning up. This brings me to today and Google searches about new key cylinders and removing the ignition lock cylinder from the column without an existing key (see my post under General) and here I am at the W-Body Forum. Stephen Jenkins Lancaster, OH
  3. Did you use the Philips LED or the traditional Halogen glass bulb from Home Depot?
  4. (I copied this from my other third brake light post) I was just choking on $10/bulb x 3 for the third brake light. I purchased 3 NOS GE 891 bulbs ($5/ea) and then one of them clouded up instantly and and is dimmer than the other two... Now I am re-considering my options. The 891 bulb spec is G4 Base 8W / 138Lumens. And these little boogers get HOT! Anybody tried the Philips 10W Equivalent Bright White (3000K) T3 Landscape Capsule LED Light Bulb with 105 Lumens from Home Depot for $5.97/ea? Or the 20W version with 195 Lumens, same price? Or Albrillo G4 LED Bulb Dimmable 1.5W, 20 Watt Halogen Bulbs Equivalent, AC DC 12V, Warm White, 4 Pack from Amazon for $15? These were reviewed as being small and fitting tight/original spaces better than most LED versions.
  5. I have lost the keys to my 1992 Cutlass Supreme S 3.1L. Been searching for days and I think I dropped them outside and someone has picked them up. My dealer said it was "too old" to cut a key by VIN. I can get AC Delco replacement lock cylinders with keys for reasonable prices for Ignition/doors/trunk from Rockauto ($60), the local chain stores($75ish), etc. My problem comes with all of the instruction sets I find indicate that you have to have the key and rotate it to the ACCY position then remove the retaining screw, of course after steering wheel, turn signal switch, etc., point being the need for the key to start with. No Key=No Rotation... Local locksmith wants $400 to make keys and indicates removing the steering column, door handles/locks etc. AAA locksmith wants $350 from me, after AAA subsidy for the same job. Any suggestions on how to get the old lock cylinder out without a key ***OR*** where to get old key codes by VIN? Thanks, Stephen
  6. I know the thread is a few months old... I was just choking on $10/bulb x 3 for the third brake light. I purchased 3 NOS GE 891 bulbs ($5/ea) and then one of them clouded up instantly and and is dimmer than the other two... Now I am re-considering my options. The 891 bulb spec is G4 Base 8W / 138Lumens. And these little boogers get HOT! Anybody tried the Philips 10W Equivalent Bright White (3000K) T3 Landscape Capsule LED Light Bulb with 105 Lumens from Home Depot for $5.97/ea? Or the 20W version with 195 Lumens, same price? Or Albrillo G4 LED Bulb Dimmable 1.5W, 20 Watt Halogen Bulbs Equivalent, AC DC 12V, Warm White, 4 Pack from Amazon for $15? These were reviewed as being small and fitting tight/original spaces better than most LED versions.
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