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  1. Someone at work asked to see some progress photos. I’ve been working on cleaning the interior. It isn’t perfect yet, but it is much better. I am willing to sit in the car now...
  2. So I spent a little time out in the garage tonight. I pulled the old crusty battery that has sat in the car all these years and replaced it with a new one ( which was also used to power the winch we pulled it onto the trailer with. This let me test some electrical components. All 4 window motors are working. The motor for the top works, though it is a bit sluggish ( i’m Sure it doesn’t help that there is extra weight in the roof framework, in the form of old mud dauber nests.) I was able to get the top all the way down, though the motor struggles to go back up ( this could be as a result of a partially drained battery. My old charger bit the dust, so I will need to get another one. Of course, having the top down has some advantages. It is much easier to see the mess that is the interior. I started the process of vacuuming out debris, tomorrow I should have some upholstery cleaner to work on the seats. I also took a few more photos to document what I am working with.
  3. And in case you are wondering, here is the thread where I discussed the issues the car had before it was partly disassembled: Now the motor has been siding with both the cam carriers and the intake manifold off of it since 2005 ( there is another thread here: ) At this point, I am not inclined to put the motor back together without rebuilding it. I think that is the right thing to do for the old girl. I did get the trunk cleared out tonight, and the hood open. All the parts I removed from the motor were tucked inside the trunk.
  4. Thanks. This was actually my daily driver from 1998-2002. I then supplemented her with another car and she did not see much winter road driving. She developed a ticking sound which I didn’t really have time to fix. Long ago I posted an audio file here of the noise she made. The license plates on her expired in 2004. She ended up in the lumber yard because I moved to Louisiana for 7.5 years. At least in the 11 years she was there, she was mostly under roof. ( you can actually see the line in the dirt on the hood where rain dripped off the roof edge ). The door glass is the least of my worries right now. Once I get her cleaned up, I may drop the top and leave it down most of the time, so I don’t really need the windows much ( not saying I won’t fix it, but there are bigger fish to fry... )
  5. So it has been a long time since I posted here.... and Shawn ( @GnatGoSplat) probably thinks I’m crazy for starting this project, but... Yesterday I rescued my 1993 Cutlass Supreme Convertible from what used to be a lumber yard in Byhalia,OH where it had sat for almost exactly 11 years ( it was parked there in October, 2008 ). I am in a bit of damage/deterioration determination mode at the moment. When she was parked, the motor was partially disassembled, so obviously there is some work to be done under the hood. The drivers side window was broken at some point, so that will need to be replaced, and at this point I don’t know if any of the interior parts have damage that needs to be repaired or replaced due to the layer of dirt and dust and other debris I still need to clean out of the car. Getting her up on the trailer ( and back down again ) was fun... the passenger side rear wheel isn’t spinning. Surprisingly, all 4 tires took air, though the drivers side front would only hold it about an hour. Passenger side front was better. It took 12 hours before it went flat.... Next task is to look through the pile of parts ( and repair manuals ) I put in the trunk all those years ago... I need it clear so I can see if the top still works....
  6. In Missouri, they are supposed to check tires (for tread depth), brakes (by removing two of the and inspecting for wear), horn, exhaust (for leaks), and suspension (for broken/warn out components). I'm doing this from memory, since it's been 6 years since I took one of my cars in for an inspection (when I moved to Ohio). Of course, while I was there, you could always find an inspection site that won't really inspect anything, and Missouri now allows bi-annual inspections (because they allow 2 year plates now). Paul
  7. Put it in the For Sale forum: Unfortunatly, I already have a project with my Cutlass that is going to take all the available funding I have, so I'll have to pass for now... Paul
  8. What kind of work does it need exactly? If you can do any of the work yourself, you can save alot of that money. I'd say you have 3 choices at this piont: Fix what's broken Move to a state that doesn't have an inspection Sell it to someone else (but disclose what you know it needs) BTW, this is one reason you should have a mechanic look over a used car BEFORE you buy. Paul
  9. I suppose nobody has any advice 'eh? I do now have all 24 lifters out of the car (and I didn't have to hunt for many while doing it). This thread on 60degreev6: makes me think there is too much play, so I'll probably drop a new set of lifters in the car when I get around to putting it back together. Incidentally, I think it may just about be time to cut my loses and just pull the motor. I haven't found anything on the top end yet that leads me to believe I've found the cause of the noise. The only thing I have left to do before I get to that point is to pull the camshafts out of the cam carriers and inspect them, along with the cam bearings, for signs of damage. (I haven't pulled the heads off yet to peak inside, I might do that too, but at least the front one has to go back on to pull the motor from above.) Paul
  10. Hi Folks, Well I'm just making some progress on diagnosing a problem I mentioned here a while ago (see Anyway, I'm pulling the cam carriers off to inspect the valvetrain (The rear one is off already, front one should be off sometime next week). Now, I"m wondering, How do I tell if a lifter is collapsed or not? The valve springs and valves stems look fine on the rear. While I've got it off, I'm going to go ahead and pull the cams out of the carrier to inspect them as well. I also have A secondary question, can anyone think of other things I should check while I have the car apart this much? (I don't really want to pull the heads at this point, but I might do that If I can't find anything wrong on the top end). Paul
  11. Or force a new bellhousing for the transaxle, which I would think might be less work, provided it doesn't require redesigning the whole tranaxle. Paul
  12. That depnds on what your definition of "turned the correct way" is One definition I suppose is easy to get to all the cylinders, but I don't think that's the right definition. Those old Caddies fit this defintion with thier longitudinal mounted engines. A transverse mounted engine actually is in many ways more efficient, even for a rear wheel drive car. The main efficiency gain is from mounting the motor so that it spins in the same direction as the wheels do. This leads to fewer drivetrain components, and therefore fewer parts adding friction to the system, and fewer parts that could break. Of course, this also leads to having either rear engined RWD cars, or FWD cars. Paul
  13. Hmmm... tell that to someone with a late 1960s up Cadillac Eldorado (Oldsmobile Toronado too). Those monsters are FWD, and had V8 engines in them... Some even with the monster caddy 500 cu in motor. Paul
  14. Think about the O2 Sensor as being an input to the computer (just like your keyboard). If the data it sends back to the ECM is somehow corrupted (through bad wiring, a faulty contact, a poor solder connection,etc), the computer might actually react as though the car was running lean when it is actually running rich, or vice versa (perhaps not both). My guess would be cleaning the connector was just enough to make the computer see both condictions. It's also possible that just moving the wire while cleaning it caused the same result. Paul
  15. Hehe.. well, that's going to be at least another 4 years . Hopefully I can get it driving again before then. Paul
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