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  1. 94 olds vert

    94 olds vert

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    jiggity76

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    l67ss

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  4. rich_e777

    rich_e777

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/28/2023 in all areas

  1. rich_e777

    `89 TGP joining the collection

    Went out on a long test run through the neighborhood backroads and man what a car! I had to put some 1x4s down at the end of the driveway to keep from scraping the road. Also had a near panic moment coming across some new speed bumps. I recall seeing the lowered cars hit the bumps diagonally and that seemed to work just fine. To much traffic on the main roads and even on the backroads to get into the pedal though, plus the no tag thing...
    7 points
  2. rich_e777

    `89 TGP joining the collection

    Alright here she is, the 1989 Pontiac "2000 Le" from Trenton. For some reason that was what the auction lot labeled it as. I had a 3rd party inspector check it out and run the VIN prior to bidding. It was a one owner car from NJ until it went to the auction lot, a slight front end collision a few years ago that set its title into the salvage category. That had to have been repaired out of pocket and when the car was repainted as theres obvious overspray and some peeling around trim. Theres some slight scratches here and there as one would expect but over all it looks amazing for how old it is. 1st pic on the truck when it arrived, It didnt start at first so we pushed it off the trailer and into the driveway, the brakes worked great and the valence only suffered a little. It seemed to have a lot of odd electrical problems and wouldnt crank at all. Thinking it was the aftermarket alarm I went to pull the battery out so I could unplug the damn horn and saw it was from 2011. A new battery had the engine fired right up and I drove it around the block a few times then topped the tank off at the ethanol free place. ...TBC
    6 points
  3. rcLord510

    Pics of a cutlass

    I managed to get some pictures while it was out tonight of my dads 91 cutlass supreme international series, if any old members remember this car, this was and still is eclipse5302s car
    6 points
  4. White93z34

    3.4 Alternator Removal/Install

    Despite being there for that way back in the day.... I'd have to really dig around for the post and it would probably be of little utility by now. If I remember right, support the car, disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle. remove all the plastic shrouding in the wheel well remove the 2 subframe bolts from the right side of the subframe and lower it down enough to access the mounting bolts for the alternator and associated wiring and then weasel it out the wheel well Thats how I used to do them, usually took round abouts of an hour. If its your first time its gonna suck they get easier after that. This is a vast over simplification, I'm sure. Its been years since I had to do one, and like Schurkey last time I did one the engine was on a stand so it was super easy.
    5 points
  5. GtpKo

    It's begun! - 2nd Gen W-Body 3800 5-speed F23 Swap

    Here's the first drive video. Sorry you can't see much but I finished late yesterday. The custom axle shaft arrived at like 5pm and then it took a couple hours to build, boot, grease and clamp the new completed cv axle and install it. It worked out perfect. Only issues so far are a couple fuses need replacing, a/c compressor clutch makes some noise sometimes, a/c is not cold, and lights don't turn on automatically at night. Must be the sensor in the dash.
    5 points
  6. rich_e777

    `89 TGP joining the collection

    Driving it around it handles great, a little stiff due to just being worn out. The steering takes some effort but theres no whining coming from the pump. It brakes pretty good for what it is but its quirky I guess is about the right word to describe it. Spongey yet firm and responsive. Sounds real nice on the backroad straights yet when I got it back to the driveway the transmission gave a nice little kick when going into reverse. Probably because of this getting it off the trailer. I could also use a replacement grille insert and Ill post in the wanted section unless someone sees this here and has one.
    5 points
  7. Donny_olds

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    Here’s my 97 cutlass supreme sl ls4 swap progress over this last year. This has not been an easy swap whatsoever, we have had far too many hurdles but we’re still goin’. First off alternator and balancer clearance was a problem, so we had to cut and plate into my strut tower about 2 inches. factory subframe wasn’t gonna cut it so we had 2 options: newer Impala subrame which around here costed a fortune, or custom subframe, which we ended building and turned out not too shabby. all custom solid motor and tranny mounts. we had to get front knee assembly from a newer Impala and axles to mount up to the 4t65 tranny, and to get rid of the horrible 1st gen strut design. for control arms we are going with stock cutlass arms and cutting and plating them to reach the Impala knuckles and bjs. still figuring out tie rods to account for track width being wider. havent dove into wiring yet but we’re almost there.
    4 points
  8. GtpKo

    It's begun! - 2nd Gen W-Body 3800 5-speed F23 Swap

    I've wanted to do this swap for about 10 years. Ever since coming across Kuntzie's 5-speed swap thread from back in 2009, and then Noah Brainerd's F40 swap thread from around the same time over on GPF, it's been on my someday-to-do list. Back in around 2013 I think it was, I came across an F40 for something like $150 that was missing 5th gear. I thought it was going to help me finally get started but then family medical issues set that back into the "someday" list. Fast forward to this past summer of 2022, I came across the F23 swaps of Tyler Pitman and Terrell Smith. At the time, I had the same reaction as everyone else and thought "There's no way it could hold, it's rated for..." and so on. Then I found out that those GM ratings are just the max that GM planned on putting it behind, not necessarily what it can actually hold. For example, the F35 is weaker than the F23 as has been learned by the J-Body guys. Internally at Getrag, the F23 was known as the 287, the successor to the 284. So far it's proving it very well could be. Watch this and this. There is more than one way to do this swap, I am taking what these guys have done and trying a couple of changes. Background story aside, here is the current parts list - will update this list as necessary: Some of the model years given are an example and should work for the same model range. F23 from 00-03 Cavalier or Sunfire with the 2200 SFI - not Ecotec as the bellhousing is different. Look for 8th digit of VIN is a 4. From same car get the shifter, full clutch pedal assembly, shifter cables, clutch reservoir, clutch cylinder w/ hydraulic line. EDIT 6/27/2023: 32" long passenger side cv shaft is the best option unless you can manage another option such as mounting a 4T65E output shaft as an intermediate shaft. For the one really long cv axle, get a "front right" passenger side axle from a Jeep Grand Cherokee 1999-2004 4WD Quadra-Drive w/ Vari-Lok. The Selec-Trac w/o Vari-Lok axle may or may not work, since it's an inch shorter and therefore leaves less room for the axle shop to work with. The axle shaft is super long and can be used as bar stock basically for an axle shop to re-spline into the new shaft you'll need. The thicker end is the end to be re-splined as it has enough material to cut down while retaining heat treat strength. This will be the new outboard end that will go into the "star" or hub end. The narrow end of the shaft has the correct splines to go into the tripod end and will be the new inner. You have to have a slot cut for a retaining ring right at the end of the existing splines and widen the existing narrow slot at the end. I believe you'll need the inner from a J-Body car since I think that's where I got my inner from. The splines need to be 1.05" not 1.1". I had a couple of these inners lying around and I thought I had the GP inner but it may have been a Cav one. But that's it for that end. The overall shaft length needs to be exactly 32". I have measured this myself and have found that measurement also quoted from others who have done this before. The inner tripod is j-body and the outer is your stock w-body hub end. Reassemble with appropriate grease, boots, and clamps and you're done. Stock passenger side CV Axle from 2nd gen W-Body such as Buick Regal or Grand Prix GT(Not GTP or Regal GS) - this will be the new driver's side axle. Flywheel - 2 options: 4th-gen (96-02) Camaro RS or Firebird (3.8 w/ 5-speed) flywheel, shaved down to about 0.81" to 0.84" - or about 0.25" shaved down on the clutch surface. Have them check the balance with your auto flexplate's balance if they can. This option should have a better balance if the engine is N/A. Or, and especially if the engine is supercharged, an aluminum flywheel from SPEC. Part # SC94AC. This will run you about $400. Clutch - many options: SPEC, Exedy, off-brand, they all have pressure plate and clutch disk combos that will work. Some better than others. You can go with a cheap risk, or more expensive sure thing, up to you. Look for a combo for a Fiero 2.8 w/ 4-speed. If you go with SPEC(sure thing) then look for a combo under "Conversions" for Fiero 3800 w/ 4-speed. Part# SC771, SC772, SC773H, etc. Important note: if you go with off-brand or Exedy or whatver, you should verify the depth of the pressure plate fingers vs. HTOB range. Also, too thick of a pressure plate may hit the inside of the bellhousing. That's why a stock Camaro pressure plate won't work. I've tried it. For more detail than I can give, search the Fiero forums for HTOB measurements. This thread is useful - Measuring HTOB to determine need for spacer?. Longer F-Body flywheel bolts. GM Part#24505092. Make sure they get the 5/16-18 bolts 0.9" length. I got burned on this once when I received 7/16-20 bolts the first time. Smaller brake booster from around an '02 Monte Carlo. Turbo guys do this often as it's smaller but still effective. I've had this mod for a while. Here is the car I got my stuff from: Here is the easiest part, the brake booster swap. I found the easiest way to remove and install these is to use a long bar on the studs to twist it out instead of struggling with the tab in the back. Since I wanted to include a hand brake, I wanted to keep the shifter to the right a bit instead of centering it. Basically, the same orientation that it originally came with in the Cavalier. But to do that I needed to fab up a new mounting plate. First I used some thin sheet metal to make a template and then welded up the plate from that. I know - my welding sucks, but I'm still learning, getting better. To mount this, I'm taking advantage of the extra slots for these clip-on stud things and modifying one of them to be longer Here is where they go, notice longer stud on the lower right - also holding the e-brake bracket. Next, with the new mounting plate installed - note the narrow nut on the bottom left. Also, you can't see it but sound-dampening rubber foam is underneath the plate. And with shifter installed - now you can see why that nut had to be narrower. There is also some interference from the plate/cables and the rear seat air duct, but I'll sort that out later. Next, modifying the brake pedal assembly. Note - be careful with cutting magnesium alloy, not sure how flammable the magnesium shavings could be. I tried to keep the 2nd bolt hole for where the steering column attaches, but that has to come off too. It's a minor bolt anyway, there are 3 more, 2 of which are the major ones, so it's fine. Steel part that bolts to the firewall and what needs to be cut off Here is approximately how they will be installed. Different than how it looks in this pic, I have the clutch pedal mounted a bit lower than this with its bolt studs even horizontally with the bottom right brake bracket stud. I have a better pic of the firewall later on. I have much more to post, but I'm out of time for now. More to come soon.
    4 points
  9. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Good evening all! Jeremy here. New to the group but been lurking for 13 yrs now. Had a 94 z34 from 2011-12. Ex wife killed that. Just got a 93 cutlass coupe convertible a few days ago. Needs a bit of work but nothing crazy. Torch red pretty thing. I'll do my best with updates and pics as work progresses on the old girl. Couldn't be happier to be a w body owner again
    4 points
  10. Schurkey

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    The process is well-described in the service manual. I haven't done this in probably ten years. Going from memory... Remove tensioner from the engine. There's a rubber plug on the tensioner body. You remove the rubber plug, drain the old oil out of it, then refill with fresh synthetic oil of the proper viscosity--might be 5W-30, I don't remember for sure. The plug either has a tiny hole in it, or you PUT a tiny hole in it. The tensioner plunger is wound back into the main body with a wrench. You hold the plunger in place while cramming a wire into the main body through the rubber plug which locks the plunger--otherwise it just unwinds again under spring tension. When the belt is back on, tensioner reinstalled--you pull the wire out, which releases the plunger and tensions the belt. Confirm with the actual service manual. Point is, it's not hard at all to reset the oil-filled (but not "hydraulic") tensioner.
    4 points
  11. Donny_olds

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    Little update…. She starts right up and can move in and out of the shop. We still need to tune my tranny and engine some more to get everything right. Radiator, fan, and hoses are on the way and we should be able to get that all in. We gotta drop the cradle one more time to detail and paint my engine bay so everything looks nice and she’ll be nice and purdy
    4 points
  12. Godsson314

    Finally here owning a CSC

    Hello! I have wanted a CSC for the longest. Was scared off years ago with the 3.4 engine warnings. I just purchased a 95 Cutlass Supreme Convertible Green on tan, my favorite color combo. I have to replace the top, and the drivers door does not work. I have been reading on posts here on how to repair. It's currently in the shop as the seller was replacing the water pump and broke a screw off. Along with air conditioning issues.
    4 points
  13. rich_e777

    `89 TGP joining the collection

    Finally had the chance to pull the wheels off and creep around underneath. Not too bad, everything rubber that wears out is pretty much worn out and surface rusted. The calipers were replaced not too long ago with pads and rotors but they were not the coated brand and have rusted over. The rust behind the front wheels doesnt seem to go back to much but I need to get the rocker panel trim off to see for sure. Motor and trans mounts are shot though so I`m not driving it to much until all those are replaced to help preserve the special tires. Those things are pricey so I`m happy to have some good ones that came with it. It needs some work but not a huge investment and will make a great show car, not necessarily for me either. I dont have it "For Sale" officially but would entertain offers before I get too attached to it and want $12,000 for just the wheels.
    4 points
  14. GtpKo

    It's begun! - 2nd Gen W-Body 3800 5-speed F23 Swap

    I should mention, this is not a power build. I don't need a stage 3 or 4 clutch quite yet. Not even a stage 2. Sure, on the next swap, for sure I'll go all out stage 3+ or something since I'll need it then but not for this test mule of a car. This dimple on the passenger side firewall area is made for guiding a hole saw to the right location for shift cables. It really appears that the engineers at GM wanted to leave the door open to making a manual option in future model years. Drilled with a 2" bi-metal hole saw, less than a minute. Same on the engine bay side. Sorry for the portrait mode photos at times. Trying to work and remember to pause to take a pic now and then. Here is the wiring harness that needs to be pulled back into the cabin for relocation. However, as I found out later, you may not need to do this if you can just remove the huge rubber plug and enlarge the top portion of this hole. Now this is what I ended up doing - this pic is from the inside of the cabin. You can see where I tried opening up the hole at the bottom for the wiring harness to go through, still seemed to interfere with the clutch pedal a bit. Also, the wiring harness through the bottom seemed to barely have any slack in it when reconnecting. I decided it would be better to enlarge the top of the original wiring harness hole and feed the wires through there instead, going above the clutch pedal mount entirely. You can also see where I ended up drilling holes for the studs on the clutch pedal mount, where the clutch master cylinder bolts to. Now that I remember, there is a pesky inner plate that slides up and down where the brake pedal bracket bolts to the firewall. The holes never stay lined up on their own, I used aluminum tape to hold it in place so I could get the dang thing back in place. Here is the best pic I could get of the wiring harness fitting nicely above the clutch pedal bracket once bolted in. And here is my 2nd attempt at cutting and re-welding the clutch pedal arm to the right angle and height to be even with the brake pedal when both are fully installed and hooked up. Not pretty, but that's what you get when you weld it at the wrong angle the first time. I've decided I will do this whole swap twice. First time works the bugs out. Next time will be on a rust-free car that I will keep for a long time. Here are a couple of pressure plates I have to choose from, first on the left is for a Fiero 2.8, the one on the right is a used one from a Camaro. Both will work but the Camaro one is stronger & bulkier. I'll test fit both and see when I get there. I'm not dropping $400 on a clutch combo until I need it. Anyways... Looking exciting already! Positioning is good for my feet. It's important to make sure you position things where you like while you have the chance.
    4 points
  15. GTP091

    New TGP owner here

    Well done on the lower valence. Now your transmission won’t overheat…
    4 points
  16. BradCH

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Hello! Sort of an introduction - I live near Vancouver, BC. I don't have a W-body, yet, but I think that's about to change with your much appreciated advice! I am looking for a 91-93 GTP, similar to the 91 my father had brand new when I was just getting my drivers' licence. His was black with grey leather, had a 5 speed manual, and I think the wheels were gold. To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan of it when I was a kid - he traded in his beautiful 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe which I absolutely loved (but was having repeated mechanical issues). The GTP felt kind of like a downgrade in some ways, especially the rattling interior. It sounded badass, but it wasn't very fast at all, something that kept getting hammered home every time I picked it up from the dealer after servicing - the dealer was a family friend who loaned us his personal 91 Trans Am every time the GTP needed something. Anyway, fast forward a couple of decades and one pops up on craigslist. Could never get hold of the seller, but it was just like my dad's except white. I then remembered my Dad's more, especially all the buttons inside (!!!) and reading and watching videos made me really kind of want a GTP again as a fun/project car. I think over the years I've come to appreciate it more as the unique car it was. Plus almost 25 years after Pontiac closed shop I'm really missing the whole brand. Those 'heat is on' commercials were constantly on my TV back then. My Dad passed away last year and my memories of learning to drive with him in it and the happier times of the early 90s are in my head now. This era of GTP (before they refreshed the interior - I think around 94?) seems to be pretty rare these days generally and especially where I live. I was trying to search for production numbers on the forum here to get a sense of what might be left out there but strangely the search engine reports 0 instances of 'GTP' across the entire forum even though I can see it plainly in various posts. I was hoping someone here had posted production numbers. There are two GTPs for sale right now near me. One I think may be a bit of a basket case. No rust (this is why I love the PNW). It is blue with grey leather, 'well loved' and apparently the brakes are shot. In this video the seller revs it and to my ear it doesn't sound too healthy and the oil pressure looks like it's high. It has 220k km and he's asking $2000cdn - it's been for sale for 6 months, I think maybe $1000 or less would be reasonable, but you guys let me know. The other is 150km from here, it's a 93, doesn't have leather (meh), but it is in excellent shape with only 140k km and could qualify for collector plates. Both cars are automatic. I was really hoping for a 5 speed but finding one out here may be impossible. I had thoughts of maybe buying an automatic and converting - it's not a money issue for me but I'm thinking scarcity of parts would be a big problem. If I had an idea just how many or few 5 speeds were produced that might guide my thinking. Or might just make my peace and live with automatic. As it's been a long time since I've bought a used vehicle (we just re-lease our Toyotas every 4 years), I was looking for advice on what to watch out for specifically with these cars, ie. things that might be broken that indicate you need to pass on this particular car. I'm kind of leaning towards going cheap to start, just to scratch the itch, because I don't know if this nostalgia wave will last once imagination/memory becomes reality. I think I'm almost in the market for something to literally just sit in and reminisce about Dad. But it might become a passion project too. Like I said, I really miss Pontiac. Anyway sorry for the long post!
    3 points
  17. rich_e777

    TGP hood vent repair.

    Turned out as a high B+ job, there is still a small spot only someone anal would notice. Rattle can Dupli-color matched up pretty good over several coats of a new to me primer and filler. Here's a comparison pic after the paint dried but before the clear coat
    3 points
  18. pwmin

    New Member With 1991 Royal 88

    No need to leave. There is a section for other cars. I can't speak for everyone, but I don't mind. There aren't many of any GM FWD's from this era left on the road.
    3 points
  19. Megavolt-380

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    1991 model year
    3 points
  20. Donny_olds

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    Custom controls arms done which completes the front end, now on to wiring… :’) wiring just about done, and a lil sneak peek at the turbo kit. hopefully will get a first start up later this week
    3 points
  21. rich_e777

    `89 TGP joining the collection

    Fortunately i've not found any body rust around the rear suspension, just the replaceable parts like the lateral links and trailing arms are crispy. Fuel and brake lines don't inspire confidence either now that I`m under here. I never thought about the strut towers not designed to hold the weight, I`ll keep it close to factory with modded 2gen links and maybe thicker sway bars only. I wasn't trying to lower it or gain any significant handling benefits, the 1st gens have always been nimble enough for me.
    3 points
  22. mechanic80

    New member with a 1995 Teal and tan 'Vert

    I'll be getting my new (to me) Cutlass Supreme Convertible next week and aside from the 3.1 intake manifold gaskets, the most work will be on the top. It seems that a new top had been done in the last couple of years but is not operational. What fun! I'll know more when it's delivered. 130K miles, may have had the gaskets replaced already, we'll see.
    3 points
  23. The booster has to twist counter-clockwise from under the hood to release. (Clockwise from the driver's seat.) There's a lock-tab that supposedly has to be pushed, and then the booster twists and falls off. I made a tool to turn the booster, and brutalized it enough that I never did deliberately "release" the lock tab, which I couldn't get to anyway. Tool is ordinary steel channel, (angle-iron, or even flat steel bar would work as well.) three holes drilled. Center hole tapped, ran a flange-head bolt into it, cut off the excess threads from the rear, and welded the M-F'r into place. Drop the tool over the master-cylinder retaining studs. A long-handle ratchet and socket on the bolt head is enough to turn the booster. Close-up of the tapered slot that the lock-tab engages. Good luck getting to it. Which is why I just cranked the booster enough to pop it free. As you can see from the shape of the slot, you have to turn that side of the booster "down" to free the lock-tab on the booster from the bracket on the firewall. Lock-tab is easier to see on the "new" booster, left. Hangs straight down from the lower right rivet, in the photo. In this photo, the boosters are rotated 90 degrees, the lock-tabs should be horizontal, not vertical. I replaced the booster on both my '92 and my '93 Luminas. The brake-light switches at the brake pedal were different. Had lots of trouble getting the '92 re-adjusted. Had to completely remove the switch and re-set the position, install it, and THEN it self-adjusts to whatever it's supposed to be. Took me hours to figure it out. The '93 was "improved" and I don't remember it being any particular problem. As alluded to earlier...I'm convinced that 80%+ of the complaints of poor brakes on first-gen W-bodies is due to faulty boosters that only partially work. There's still some "assist", but not nearly what it's supposed to be. And the boosters pass all the usual tests, they're just under-powered. Replacing the boosters on my two cars made a HUGE difference in the braking power.
    3 points
  24. GTP091

    5 speed swap

    Finally sourced a set of new hydraulic lifters for the engine rebuild. Engine tech and a Timing chain set.
    3 points
  25. rich_e777

    TGP VIN database - website inside!

    For $134 someone will go and check out the one in NJ from a 3rd party, maybe worth it. Seems like no one hasnt bid on it either and its been up since the 1st. Ok sticking my foot in the water, inspection ordered for the NJ TGP. Lets see what shes hiding. Any takers on inspecting the one in TX for a similar amount?
    3 points
  26. ManicMechanic

    TGP VIN database - website inside!

    Minty 1989 TGP in a NJ auction.
    3 points
  27. ManicMechanic

    TGP VIN database - website inside!

    https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/36969340~US Low mile TGP in Houston salvage auction. Blowing up the pics, the thing looks like it still has Goodyear Gatorbacks on it. Makes me wonder if it was the one I saw at a Walmart in Austin 20 years ago. Red, tan leather, sunroof, CD. 1G5WP14V1LF283454 built 4/90
    3 points
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