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    94 olds vert

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    jiggity76

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2024 in all areas

  1. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Good evening all! Jeremy here. New to the group but been lurking for 13 yrs now. Had a 94 z34 from 2011-12. Ex wife killed that. Just got a 93 cutlass coupe convertible a few days ago. Needs a bit of work but nothing crazy. Torch red pretty thing. I'll do my best with updates and pics as work progresses on the old girl. Couldn't be happier to be a w body owner again
    4 points
  2. BradCH

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Hello! Sort of an introduction - I live near Vancouver, BC. I don't have a W-body, yet, but I think that's about to change with your much appreciated advice! I am looking for a 91-93 GTP, similar to the 91 my father had brand new when I was just getting my drivers' licence. His was black with grey leather, had a 5 speed manual, and I think the wheels were gold. To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan of it when I was a kid - he traded in his beautiful 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe which I absolutely loved (but was having repeated mechanical issues). The GTP felt kind of like a downgrade in some ways, especially the rattling interior. It sounded badass, but it wasn't very fast at all, something that kept getting hammered home every time I picked it up from the dealer after servicing - the dealer was a family friend who loaned us his personal 91 Trans Am every time the GTP needed something. Anyway, fast forward a couple of decades and one pops up on craigslist. Could never get hold of the seller, but it was just like my dad's except white. I then remembered my Dad's more, especially all the buttons inside (!!!) and reading and watching videos made me really kind of want a GTP again as a fun/project car. I think over the years I've come to appreciate it more as the unique car it was. Plus almost 25 years after Pontiac closed shop I'm really missing the whole brand. Those 'heat is on' commercials were constantly on my TV back then. My Dad passed away last year and my memories of learning to drive with him in it and the happier times of the early 90s are in my head now. This era of GTP (before they refreshed the interior - I think around 94?) seems to be pretty rare these days generally and especially where I live. I was trying to search for production numbers on the forum here to get a sense of what might be left out there but strangely the search engine reports 0 instances of 'GTP' across the entire forum even though I can see it plainly in various posts. I was hoping someone here had posted production numbers. There are two GTPs for sale right now near me. One I think may be a bit of a basket case. No rust (this is why I love the PNW). It is blue with grey leather, 'well loved' and apparently the brakes are shot. In this video the seller revs it and to my ear it doesn't sound too healthy and the oil pressure looks like it's high. It has 220k km and he's asking $2000cdn - it's been for sale for 6 months, I think maybe $1000 or less would be reasonable, but you guys let me know. The other is 150km from here, it's a 93, doesn't have leather (meh), but it is in excellent shape with only 140k km and could qualify for collector plates. Both cars are automatic. I was really hoping for a 5 speed but finding one out here may be impossible. I had thoughts of maybe buying an automatic and converting - it's not a money issue for me but I'm thinking scarcity of parts would be a big problem. If I had an idea just how many or few 5 speeds were produced that might guide my thinking. Or might just make my peace and live with automatic. As it's been a long time since I've bought a used vehicle (we just re-lease our Toyotas every 4 years), I was looking for advice on what to watch out for specifically with these cars, ie. things that might be broken that indicate you need to pass on this particular car. I'm kind of leaning towards going cheap to start, just to scratch the itch, because I don't know if this nostalgia wave will last once imagination/memory becomes reality. I think I'm almost in the market for something to literally just sit in and reminisce about Dad. But it might become a passion project too. Like I said, I really miss Pontiac. Anyway sorry for the long post!
    3 points
  3. White93z34

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    Schurkey is almost completely right but you need a small flatblade screwdriver to wind it back in is all. My main concern is once I need one next its going to be figuring out how to rebuild one or adapt something to fit as I've had more then a few fail in my time. Just a point of interest not that this anything to do with anything but I've done more LQ1 timing belts then most people and NOT ONCE have I actually gotten oil out of a tensioner. when I serviced the belt. I always put some back in... just thought it an interesting thing to point out.
    3 points
  4. Schurkey

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    The process is well-described in the service manual. I haven't done this in probably ten years. Going from memory... Remove tensioner from the engine. There's a rubber plug on the tensioner body. You remove the rubber plug, drain the old oil out of it, then refill with fresh synthetic oil of the proper viscosity--might be 5W-30, I don't remember for sure. The plug either has a tiny hole in it, or you PUT a tiny hole in it. The tensioner plunger is wound back into the main body with a wrench. You hold the plunger in place while cramming a wire into the main body through the rubber plug which locks the plunger--otherwise it just unwinds again under spring tension. When the belt is back on, tensioner reinstalled--you pull the wire out, which releases the plunger and tensions the belt. Confirm with the actual service manual. Point is, it's not hard at all to reset the oil-filled (but not "hydraulic") tensioner.
    3 points
  5. cutlassman

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt

    I appreciate all the advice. I’ll bite the bullet and drop the pan. The engine support bar is a great idea. A new oil pump makes sense and the power steering lines are leaking a bit, so I’ll knock those out, too. Might as well check out everything else while I’m in there.
    2 points
  6. White93z34

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.
    2 points
  7. carkhz316

    LS4 swap begins

    Dang, its a been a spell. I'm sorry I havn't checked back in for some time. Anyway, I got the the Monte out to a few car shows last summer. I live in a rural area, so not many eyes and ears for modern cars. I was largely ignored but I don't care. The few people genuinely interested were great to talk to and showed sincere interest, so thats nice. Anyway, some pics and videos from last year. Yes, the vette covers are a cheeky joke, mostly. I figured if anyone else can do it for their LS (Vortec) swapped classic or hot rod, why can't I?
    2 points
  8. Gp2006

    New member

    Hi all. Just signed up. I’m here from GPForum where I used to get lots of good technical info. Alas the site is no more. Hope to pick up and share info as I go along. Just put my 2006 Grand Prix back on the road after several years in storage. Nothing fancy but it runs great and still looks good.
    2 points
  9. jiggity76

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    That's very kind of you! I've learned a lot due to me basically having to get so deep into both my cars restoration. It's forced me to learn how these cars are put together and I've become very good at looking for parts, doing research, etc. I'm trying for perfection but still have lots to learn and work to do. I can't forget to mention the guys who came before me. I've learned so much from them that I can't...NO ONE can do it without their knowledge and guidance. I'm just trying to pay it forward.
    2 points
  10. jiggity76

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    I just put a brand new one of those on the International. Thankfully, the area on the truck floor is super solid with factory paint still there. Of course it being an Oklahoma car is probably helping tremendously.
    2 points
  11. rich_e777

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Nice ride, Ive got a white `95 Vert thats been a project for awhile now. They`re great cars but the Verts and the DOHC engine both have unique parts no longer in production so they have to be maintained. There's several places coolant can get to leaking from, few are easy to get to. They can even get to leaking coolant from a plug inside the bellhousing. One thing Ive encountered on mine and seen on several junkyard cars is the antenna mast seal on those can go bad, leak into the trunk and rust from the inside out just over the rear wheel wheel. You might check behind ya`lls trunk liner to check every now and then.
    2 points
  12. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    She's not without problems. Verified timing belt shredding itself, active coolant leak (unsure of location now), a 2in tear in the top, cut in the driver side weatherstrip above the window, and a problem with the seal at the driver side windshield where the top meets. The last two let water in. Rain all day yesterday verified the leaks. I don't have a garage so I bought a car cover. But coming from Chicago I haven't found rust anywhere. And she's 30 years old now. Perfect is hard to find at a reasonable price with lower miles.
    2 points
  13. Oldsman

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Welcome. I haven't been on here very long and have only a few posts. My wife has a very similar car except hers is a 95 with only 27,000 miles. I found the thread on here about replacing the rear window weatherstrips. They are no longer available and the thread shows how to use 4th generation Camaro door weatherstrips. Excellent article. It looks like somebody has painted your brake calipers red. I did the same thing to my wife's car last year when I replaced the pads. These are really fun cars. Enjoy yours.
    2 points
  14. j_train5344

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    Wonderful info guys! Truly...thank you! I just bought a 93 olds Cutlass with 108k mi. Confirmed for sure needs a timing belt. All of your info will come in handy guaranteed. Also doing plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets, and whatever else comes up in the process. Again, thank you all so much! Pics to come
    2 points
  15. rich_e777

    TGP hood vent repair.

    Turned out as a high B+ job, there is still a small spot only someone anal would notice. Rattle can Dupli-color matched up pretty good over several coats of a new to me primer and filler. Here's a comparison pic after the paint dried but before the clear coat
    2 points
  16. Callahanj0b

    Post rebuild electrical nonsense

    Replaced relays, vroom vroom.
    1 point
  17. 94 olds vert

    TGP hood vent repair.

    I have a very similar issues on my jet ski, with metal screws and plastic mounts. I slammed into a wave pretty hard and broke the tabs. Luckily I was able to get the hood vent cover out of the lake. Looks like I know what to use for the repair now.
    1 point
  18. jiggity76

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Not sure if you care about it or not but it looks like you're missing the lug nut caps. Very pretty car though!
    1 point
  19. rich_e777

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    I have this task on the to do list that never seems to get any shorter. Thanks for the info dudes!
    1 point
  20. jiggity76

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    This is a great overall video of not only the tensioner but anything having to do with servicing these wonderful motors. Like in the video, motor oil is used to top off the tensioner. There is a rubber plug that gives access to filling it. The video explains what is acceptable for the tensioner to be at as far as specs to be considered reusable. You'll have to skip forward a bit to find the appropriate sections of information. Hope this helps!
    1 point
  21. 89-W-Body-Regal

    COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR DISCONTINUED FOR 2.8L V-6 & 3.1L W-body cars

    Ok, I checked the sensor a week ago and the wiring. The sensor I got was back in July, last year. I replaced it because I was putting a new radiator in and wanted to save time. I also got a new engine installed too so I wanted to replace some sensors to put on the new motor. I needed a new ECM as well because water got into it. The shop installed everything with the new engine. The low coolant light was on. They thought maybe it was the ecm. But the ecm had no codes and wasn’t causing any drivability concerns. So they said it could just be a bad wire like you said. The shop knows I know my car better than anyone inside out because I provided the parts and found the motor myself. I checked the connector and wiring along the sensor. All clean and connector was tight and clean. I thought for the hell of it, the shop gived me my old coolant level sensor back. I put that back on and what do you know the low coolant light went out. So it had to be that nos sensor the dealer sold me. No wonder they charged me so cheap for it. These sensors nos GM are expensive. It was probably a bad sensor they had sitting on the shelf and wanted to get rid of it. I am going to have to drive the Buick and monitor it to make sure the light don’t come back on. I will let you know if it comes back on or not. I am gonna take her for a long drive.
    1 point
  22. Donny_olds

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    Got cooling system and all accessories on. Having some trouble getting tranny to shift, we used a 4l80 as reference for pinning the harness to the ecu and we can get it into first manually but no luck shifting, any tips?? IMG_1476.MOV
    1 point
  23. Megavolt-380

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    1991 model year
    1 point
  24. jiggity76

    Tired 88 Cutlass

    He's here. Not consistently, but he does check in once in awhile. He's also on FB. Classic GM FWD Society. Yes, he does both of them. He actually looked at my cluster a few months ago. Sadly, it couldn't be repaired as it was badly damaged. Don't let that deter you though. Each cluster repair is unique and he very well might be able to fix yours. Very fair on price too.
    1 point
  25. NCTyphoonKid

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    I picked up a parts car 4 door 93 euro this morning and plan on pulling it apart and swapping its goods to mine. Picked it up super cheap since the body was a little rough but not bad. Maybe I'll have a running and driving car soon
    1 point
  26. NCTyphoonKid

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    Been making good progress got the engine and trans separated and the transmission out on a dolly. Plan on pulling the upper intake maybe tomorrow and see how the gaskets look. If all goes well maybe I'll paint the plenum and valve covers to dress them up a tad
    1 point
  27. Imp558

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    The 2 revisions are with or without the 2nd gear switch 1994 4L60-E is very different. With the discovery inside the radiator in mind perhaps swap the entire 1994 powertrain?
    1 point
  28. Imp558

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    What is the parts car you have? I can look in alldata and see if that tranny is the same for you.
    1 point
  29. Nas Escobar

    Engine swaping 3.1 mpfi to 3.1 sfi or 3.4

    Yes, you can swap in a 3400 LA1 where an LH0 (your 3.1 MPFI) resides. From my understanding, the 3400 is a bored out version of a 3100 (L82), itself an updated LH0 with SFI and other minor improvements. Your real issue will be that you may have to convert to OBD2 or send your computer out to WOT Tech or Milzy Motorsports to get the computer programmed to run the LA1. That would eliminate the probability of issues with the new engine. What most guys have done here however is swapped out the 60 Degree V6 (the 2.8, 3.1, 3.4, 3100, 3400, 3500 engine family) for a Buick 3800 S2. You could go supercharged or keep it naturally aspirated, however this would be the easiest thing to do as the 1996 Buick Regal and 1998/1999 Chevy Monte Carlo both had a 3800, but in naturally aspirated form. In theory, you could get a donor 96 Regal and convert your 93 to OBD2, and 3800 power it along with the transmission since the 3.1/3100 had the lowest gear ratio of the 3 engines available. The LQ1 had the highest ratio at 3.42 and I think the 3.1 had it at 3.30 or something along those lines. There's a lot of threads of people swapping a 3800 in their 1st gen cars on here.
    1 point
  30. Heartbeat1991

    W-body engine pull

    I dropped mine out the bottom all as one unit.
    1 point
  31. Michael Savage

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    Milzy Moto says he can do the swap for $5000 so it is possible to make it work and rite. Can't afford $5000 so IDE do it myself. He said for that swap you have to change over most every part controlled by the PCM over. He said virtually you have to make it think it's an 06. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  32. Night Fury

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    HVAC module, radio, DIC, airbag equipment, RKE, etc etc etc
    1 point
  33. Nas Escobar

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    They're not talking about the VATS key, they're talking about Passkey 3 or whatever number it was on when the 3900 came out. The newer cars required the BCM to communicate with the PCM/ECU in order to have all systems go. If you take out that link between the PCM and the BCM then the car will be disabled. The thing with the newer systems is that the VIN gets communicated between each system, and if there's no match or if there's an issue then the security is triggered. Everything nowadays is controlled by it. Speedo, odometer, fuel pump, etc. and one small hiccup, the whole car is stranded. You may have to have the BCM and the PCM and bridge that to make it work with your 95's electronics.
    1 point
  34. Night Fury

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    3900 has exactly nothing to do with the 3800. Literally zero things in common besides the fact that they are both engines.
    1 point
  35. Michael Savage

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    Wiring seems easy tuning isn't a big deal since it's OBD2 and I have rebuilt axles at the shop before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  36. ^This. Either some anti-sieze or die-electric grease would be the best to use.
    1 point
  37. I was gonna share my couple experiences, but this write-up pretty much covers the same: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/16057-crankshaft-position-sensor-tutorial
    1 point
  38. What a pain in the arse to find that stupid thing. None of the pictures I found showed it until the above posting. And what does DP mean? I did finally find the thing though, it was beneath the header pipe/exhaust manifold. HOWEVER I have a new problem. We cannot remove it. We took the bolt out and we can spin the sensor in its hole but we can't get it out at all. I tried using a small screwdriver and it is starting to break up to the point where I don't know how we will be able to grab ahold of it. What do we do now? Is there a trick to getting the damned thing out?
    1 point
  39. DefEddie

    W-body engine pull

    Update for tips and tricks on pulling the whole assembly out from underneath.
    1 point
  40. mike_lumina92

    any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful

    yeah, i got a magna flow muffler and dual exhuasts at the muffler shop already paid for, i jus need to take time to go get them put on, tune up and cold air intake will these make it noticably faster or powerfull
    1 point
  41. dirt_igirt

    1993 Lumina Z34 stalling while driving

    my 91 grand prix stalled while at stop sings and light and it was kinda slugish i replaced the fuel filter problem solved
    1 point
  42. jeremy

    3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap

    x3
    1 point
  43. Euro

    3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap

    Either the 3400 or 3800 swaps wouldn't be very hard. Like Mitch R said, if you choose 3800(*cough* better) then just find a 3800 powered Lumina LTZ, and the wiring and swap would be pretty straight forward. 3400 would be easy too, since the 3100 is the same damn motor
    1 point
  44. Dark Ride

    3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap

    a 3800 out of a lumina LTZ would seem like an easy swap in your case, plus there is alot more aftermarket for the 3800. Plus the potential for a Turbo kit.
    1 point
  45. Brian P

    W-body engine pull

    Yeah, just unbolt the pump from the engine (3 bolts accessible thru the pulley holes) lift it up and set it aside. Don't disconnect any lines. What's different about the 3500 timing cover? I remember seeing a 3500 in a car with electric power steering, yet the mount for the hydraulic pump was still on the timing cover.
    1 point
  46. TurboSedan

    W-body engine pull

    i always leave my PS pump in the engine bay when i pull the drivetrain. just unbolt it from the front timing cover and set it aside.
    1 point
  47. slick

    W-body engine pull

    We could add this to FAQ later once all discussion is done. If someone wants to do a write-up of dropping the entire cradle for swapping engines, I'll make it a sticky as well.
    1 point
  48. Brian P

    W-body engine pull

    You'll still have an oil pressure switch there for the dummy light on the gage cluster. Once in there you won't necessarily see the bolts. With the starter out, you'll see the back face of the flexplate. You need to manually turn the engine and stop when the bolts come into view. There's 3 of them, 120 degrees apart. I rotate the engine using a 1/2" breaker bar on the crank pulley/dampener bolt. Turn clockwise of course. I don't have a pic of this but I'll look around. Yeah I was thinking of trying one of those cams too! I saw your thread on there, I'm on that forum as "Rhedalert". I did a basic tuning method like you suggested, except I went from 3100 settings to 3400 settings. This got me closer. (I have since gone to a 3400 file anyway) I'm hoping we get a 3500 file to view (though I'm just about done with tuning, just curious how the 3500 settings are), but things tend to take a LONG time over there to get anything. I waited over 4 months from the time I purchased the PT to the time I was able to TUNE my Olds. It's tough to get the ball rolling quickly over there if you don't have a 3800, but patience is the key and it will happen.
    1 point
  49. Brian P

    W-body engine pull

    I have a few minutes at this moment. That lower mount, all you need to do is crawl under the car, and remove the 2 retaining nuts keeping the mount onto its "cup" on the frame. Other things to do.... Bottom: - unbolt AC compressor from bracket and set aside - Remove starter - Remove flexplate-to-torque converter bolts (accessible once starter is removed. You will have to turn the engine manually at the crank pulley to get at all 3) - Disconnect exhaust downpipe (preferred), or unbolt crossover and remove rear exhaust manifold. - Remove right side transmission-to-engine block retaining bolts (I usually just remove the 2 bolts going into the trans diff cone area, and leave the bracket bolted to the engine block) Over: - All hoses including upper, lower, and 2 heater hoses (nearest the throttle body - Remove cables from TB or just unbolt the TB and set it aside - Undo two fuel lines with special quick disconnect tool - Get all accessories out of the way - Unbolt P/S pump and set aside - Remove alternator (preference of mine for added space) keep the bracket bolted to the engine - Disconnect engine wiring harness that goes to the EGR, Throttle body, igniton module, MAP sensor, Oxygen sensor, injector harness, etc and set aside - *** Disconnect knock sensor and oil pressure sensor wiring (You don't want to pull these apart accidentally) - remove crossover heat shield and crossover (optional for added space to get to the bellhousing bolts) - undo bellhousing bolts, disconnect 2 ground wires attached to 2 of these bolts *** ONE Bellhousing bolt in the BACK of the motor is facing the OTHER direction. You can only access this from the passenger side of the car. I usually use a long 1/2" extension and get at it by feel from the passenger side fenderwell. - Support transmission from the bottom with a jack, or jackstand (use a big piece of wood to prevent gouging the pan) - lift up evenly, be sure motor mount lifts out of its cup first, then shake the engine free from the tranny. I may have missed some so I'll add as I think about it.
    1 point
  50. Robby1870

    440-T4/4t60 upgrades and/or swaps with 4t60e/4t65e parts

    well, about the only thing you can do to a 4T60 from a N/A car is rebuild it with parts from a 4T60 out of a turbo grand prix. The 4T60 in the turbo grand prix is the same as in 2.8 and 3.1L N/A cars, just a lot beefier, like better valve body and torque converter for example. There is a shift kit on top of that, I think, but it can only be installed during a rebuild, from what I have heard. While you got the motor apart, get a crank from a 3.1L, cuz a 3.1L is simply a stroked 2.8L. I would get the 3.1L crank because of the torque gain you will see. The 4th gear on the 4T60 is very weak, but I dont think you'll be doin high speed runs in a dune buggy. If you rebuild the 4T60 with parts from a 4T60 out of a turbo grand prix it will hold 210-220HP. The stock trubo grand prixs had like 205HP and 225lb/ft which was limited. Just rebiuld with those parts and you should be good. Good Luck!!! Welcome to the board Robby
    1 point
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