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Got her running boys!! Not only that, she runs tip top again!! It was timing all along. Fabbed some tools in my father in laws shop to replicate those in the Kent moore kit and worked like a charm. A big thank you to those who offered help and guidance through my first real foray into the 3.4L dohc joys and frustrations. It's been better than 12 yrs since my z34 and I never tackled projects like gaskets or timing on it. This is really a great group!!

It had to be saved, it was going to the Jawas otherwise. All Jiggity57`s fault for posting it. I got into a bit of a race the other day when I probably shouldnt have. I made a right turn and immediately found a speeding BMW attempting to swerve around me from a sharp corner in the right lane. I laid into the pedal a bit, chirped the tires and heard an awesome turbo wastegate PAHHTISHHHHH and left the kraut cart far into the rearview mirror. Scared the hell out of me and blew the lower hose off the turbo in the process. I love this freakin` car! Decades after WW2 and we can still put the Messerschmitt`s in their place, just not in a P51 Mustangs.

Each of the intake manifolds design is unique to the upper plenum assembly. If one wants to swap the intake manifold to or from the earlier design then one must also swap the upper plenum assembly.

Hello! Sort of an introduction - I live near Vancouver, BC. I don't have a W-body, yet, but I think that's about to change with your much appreciated advice! I am looking for a 91-93 GTP, similar to the 91 my father had brand new when I was just getting my drivers' licence. His was black with grey leather, had a 5 speed manual, and I think the wheels were gold. To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan of it when I was a kid - he traded in his beautiful 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe which I absolutely loved (but was having repeated mechanical issues). The GTP felt kind of like a downgrade in some ways, especially the rattling interior. It sounded badass, but it wasn't very fast at all, something that kept getting hammered home every time I picked it up from the dealer after servicing - the dealer was a family friend who loaned us his personal 91 Trans Am every time the GTP needed something. Anyway, fast forward a couple of decades and one pops up on craigslist. Could never get hold of the seller, but it was just like my dad's except white. I then remembered my Dad's more, especially all the buttons inside (!!!) and reading and watching videos made me really kind of want a GTP again as a fun/project car. I think over the years I've come to appreciate it more as the unique car it was. Plus almost 25 years after Pontiac closed shop I'm really missing the whole brand. Those 'heat is on' commercials were constantly on my TV back then. My Dad passed away last year and my memories of learning to drive with him in it and the happier times of the early 90s are in my head now. This era of GTP (before they refreshed the interior - I think around 94?) seems to be pretty rare these days generally and especially where I live. I was trying to search for production numbers on the forum here to get a sense of what might be left out there but strangely the search engine reports 0 instances of 'GTP' across the entire forum even though I can see it plainly in various posts. I was hoping someone here had posted production numbers. There are two GTPs for sale right now near me. One I think may be a bit of a basket case. No rust (this is why I love the PNW). It is blue with grey leather, 'well loved' and apparently the brakes are shot. In this video the seller revs it and to my ear it doesn't sound too healthy and the oil pressure looks like it's high. It has 220k km and he's asking $2000cdn - it's been for sale for 6 months, I think maybe $1000 or less would be reasonable, but you guys let me know. The other is 150km from here, it's a 93, doesn't have leather (meh), but it is in excellent shape with only 140k km and could qualify for collector plates. Both cars are automatic. I was really hoping for a 5 speed but finding one out here may be impossible. I had thoughts of maybe buying an automatic and converting - it's not a money issue for me but I'm thinking scarcity of parts would be a big problem. If I had an idea just how many or few 5 speeds were produced that might guide my thinking. Or might just make my peace and live with automatic. As it's been a long time since I've bought a used vehicle (we just re-lease our Toyotas every 4 years), I was looking for advice on what to watch out for specifically with these cars, ie. things that might be broken that indicate you need to pass on this particular car. I'm kind of leaning towards going cheap to start, just to scratch the itch, because I don't know if this nostalgia wave will last once imagination/memory becomes reality. I think I'm almost in the market for something to literally just sit in and reminisce about Dad. But it might become a passion project too. Like I said, I really miss Pontiac. Anyway sorry for the long post!

Little update, we got it tuned pretty good just having trouble making boost. Fixed a couple leaky intercooler pipes and it takes forever to build boost. Thinking maybe the 2 1/2 is too big for the turbo piping, probably will go to 2 inch. We have cam to put in which will help aswell. More vids coming soon

I just picked up a 93 vert last fall. I owned a 90 coupe as my first car back in highschool over 20 years ago. I've always wanted a convertible version since I first saw one. Now I do. lol She has a little damage from the previous owner which I've almost got all fixed but she's rust free with only 89k on the clock. The only pic i have right now is from the day I got her.

Supposedly you can gain a bit of power on the top end due to the intake being better designed. The downside is its a major pain in the ass to pull off properly, and even then it doesn't really fit the earlier engines well. not worth the trouble in my opinion.

I tried to do this as well probably back in 2010 or so. I couldn't find the parts I needed. So I just replaced the gaskets and moved on. I'd imagine finding the parts today would be very difficult.

I remember hearing it was worth it and wanting to do it back in the day on my cutlass but it was a pain finding everything at the yards. To put it into perspective I sold the cutlass 15 years ago.

Ehh, I dont hate it but it sort of looks funny being the only "chrome" on the car. Might have looked better above the tail light instead. It has little lines going through it like retro things did back then that match the grids in the tail lights and ribs in the bumpers in a very OCD friendly way.

I have an engine support bar ordered to try to make things as easy as possible. I’m adding subframe bushings to the project, too, along with a new trans pan gasket and filter swap. I don’t need to drive the car so I might as well do as much as I can!

I appreciate all the advice. I’ll bite the bullet and drop the pan. The engine support bar is a great idea. A new oil pump makes sense and the power steering lines are leaking a bit, so I’ll knock those out, too. Might as well check out everything else while I’m in there.

I feel your pain but if it were my car, I would just drop the pan. I haven't done this on a 3.1 car as I own LQ1 cars but it's not a bad job really. Just make sure to clean everything well and you might as well put a new gasket on it. There are instructions in my manuals that require torque for the gasket and the metal tabs in certain areas of the perimeter of the pan flange. You'll also want to add dabs of silicone sealant in the corners of the pan where it goes up and around the crankshaft, etc. Again, the manual recommends this.

Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.

Pics? Though Ive got a feeling I know the part being referred too. IIRC its called run channel if its the slotted piece the glass makes contact with on the sides of the "window regulator". It could "possibly" be some universal stuff that solidified over time that just looks like plastic. Hey is this at the front A pillar side of the glass near the mirrors or against the rear part of the door glass closer to the handle? I`m thinking of 2 different parts now.

I've broken a rod end on the driver's side hydraulic ram for the convertible top. It broke off cleanly at the end of the shaft, saving the threads, but the "collar" still remains on the rod end. Any good tricks on how to screw this off without really messing stuff up? There's not much room to work...and I'd rather avoid tearing the interior panels off if I can avoid it. Thanks!

Working on this very car and searched up this thread for that SR P/N. Same thing happened on the passenger side and Ive about convinced myself I can replace the top and parts instead of a shop. Before that I want to disassemble and repaint/coat the frame pieces and go the extra mile a shop wouldnt. Can`t wait to get her back on the road and towards Pensacola, a convertible`s natural habitat!

not sure how i missed this before, but nice grab!

I am looking for a Coolant Level sensor that mounts onto the radiator on the top left side of the radiator. I was able to find one NOS GM part made by AC DELCO at a Chevy Dealership last year. I replaced it a couple months ago and the low coolant light is still on. I was hoping the sensor would shut off the light like it should when the coolant is not low. The reason why I replaced it in the first place was because the low coolant light kept going on and off. It must have had a short circuit in it. I replaced the sensor in 2020 when the low coolant light was on then and the light never came back on. The light came back last year and I thought maybe it was the sensor again like before because the coolant is staying full but the light is still on saying coolant is low. After I replaced it the light never went out and the coolant is full. GM has discontinued this part number by GM 14094922. It was suspended to part number 8859353. I was going to purchase one of the remaining ones off ebay. But none of the sellers will offer free returns if the sensor is defective and has to be returned. So I was wondering if anything aftermarket that is reliable has the sensor available so I can get warranty. Keep in mind those parts on ebay are nos. They can't replace it if the part is defective out of the box because they aren't available to get an replacement.

Good idea! It sucks for sure, but sounds like there will be a few things to do that will be easier with the subframe out of the way. 100% get an engine support bar or make one, It'll be way better. I did one with an engine hoist one time, and it was just a pain in the rear because the hoist legs were just in the way!

Bite the bullet and pull the pan off, with a engine bay support bar its not really that hard. Replace the oil pump with a newer higher volume one while your at it. Your timing cover gasket is probably in need of replacement as well so you might as well make it a good project.

Replaced relays, vroom vroom.

I knew I read about the Corvette people and hood vents from somewhere. The clear coat didnt make the pattern it was the new coat of primer on top of the scuffed up clear coat. I was thinking a media blaster using some "softer" stuff like baking soda would be enough to remove it evenly. Or just make a week long project out of doing it by hand a few square inches a night with sand paper. While their off I had the idea to see if CS vents fit, I`ll dig them out and see. I also have a set of Daytona vents I forgot I had, only have one drip pan for it though.

She's not without problems. Verified timing belt shredding itself, active coolant leak (unsure of location now), a 2in tear in the top, cut in the driver side weatherstrip above the window, and a problem with the seal at the driver side windshield where the top meets. The last two let water in. Rain all day yesterday verified the leaks. I don't have a garage so I bought a car cover. But coming from Chicago I haven't found rust anywhere. And she's 30 years old now. Perfect is hard to find at a reasonable price with lower miles.

Turned out as a high B+ job, there is still a small spot only someone anal would notice. Rattle can Dupli-color matched up pretty good over several coats of a new to me primer and filler. Here's a comparison pic after the paint dried but before the clear coat

Ok, I checked the sensor a week ago and the wiring. The sensor I got was back in July, last year. I replaced it because I was putting a new radiator in and wanted to save time. I also got a new engine installed too so I wanted to replace some sensors to put on the new motor. I needed a new ECM as well because water got into it. The shop installed everything with the new engine. The low coolant light was on. They thought maybe it was the ecm. But the ecm had no codes and wasn’t causing any drivability concerns. So they said it could just be a bad wire like you said. The shop knows I know my car better than anyone inside out because I provided the parts and found the motor myself. I checked the connector and wiring along the sensor. All clean and connector was tight and clean. I thought for the hell of it, the shop gived me my old coolant level sensor back. I put that back on and what do you know the low coolant light went out. So it had to be that nos sensor the dealer sold me. No wonder they charged me so cheap for it. These sensors nos GM are expensive. It was probably a bad sensor they had sitting on the shelf and wanted to get rid of it. I am going to have to drive the Buick and monitor it to make sure the light don’t come back on. I will let you know if it comes back on or not. I am gonna take her for a long drive.

I believe the 04's were more subject to cracking, so I would go with a newer year.

This one has your name al over it! Being California car it should be reall clean https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/290176733382939/?mibextid=6ojiHh

Glad you got this TGP! It is really clean looking. I'll take a look for a grill. I used to have one.

Yep

did you all still want a picture of it installed?

He's here. Not consistently, but he does check in once in awhile. He's also on FB. Classic GM FWD Society. Yes, he does both of them. He actually looked at my cluster a few months ago. Sadly, it couldn't be repaired as it was badly damaged. Don't let that deter you though. Each cluster repair is unique and he very well might be able to fix yours. Very fair on price too.

OK kiddies, like the title says, is it possible to use the entire front sub frame and suspension in to a 1.5 lumina? I measured the front upper strut mounting bolts and it looks like the pattern is the same.

Yes can be done. -3800 motor and trans from a w-body(mounts are different between the different chassis. Just makes it easier). -Inner tulip cv joint from Same trans out axle from 1g w -Wiring harness 98-99 Monte Carlo/lumina ltz, need to mod c100 conector but easy enough -downpipe from same monte/lumina -power steering lines from monte/lumina -heater core lines from Monte/lumina -rad and hoses from 3800 car Motor will drop right into the subframe and into the car no issues. You can use the 2g wiring but you're into more wiring of the c100 connector as they're completely different.

You can bolt the 2nd gen subframe in a 1st gen w-body, I've done it... Suspension becomes a headache though...

If anyone is wondering, these are still holding up great. Just like the day I put them in.

I will be pulling my 3100 from my 96 GP soon to put in a 3500, and I was wondering where the lower engine mount is? I know the engine has to come unbolted from the tranny, and then the 2 dogbone mounts on top come off, then all lines get disconnected.... but where is that lower mount and is there anything else that has to come apart for the engine to come out? Tranny is staying in the car. Thanks.

I dropped mine out the bottom all as one unit.

HVAC module, radio, DIC, airbag equipment, RKE, etc etc etc

one of your biggest headaches is going to be the firewall pass throughs for the harness I'm pretty sure you will not be able to make it weather tight as GM changed the pass through size an xxx shape to accommodate almost twice as many wires as older cars. you also may well get stuck keeping the BCM as most modern Obd2/CAN bus security and anti theft systems depend on a security handshake between the computers. you can shove anything into anything depending on how big your bottle of aspirin is....let us know how it goes. Regards, James

3900 has exactly nothing to do with the 3800. Literally zero things in common besides the fact that they are both engines.

3.9 should physically bolt in

Aluminum subframe was 06+ only...

Update for tips and tricks on pulling the whole assembly out from underneath.

Heh oh yeah, I need to get some videos! Still tryin to smooth out my tune, it's being a pain.

Yeah, just unbolt the pump from the engine (3 bolts accessible thru the pulley holes) lift it up and set it aside. Don't disconnect any lines. What's different about the 3500 timing cover? I remember seeing a 3500 in a car with electric power steering, yet the mount for the hydraulic pump was still on the timing cover.

i always leave my PS pump in the engine bay when i pull the drivetrain. just unbolt it from the front timing cover and set it aside.

Yay now I have a sticky on both forums! Is there anything bad about turning it the other way? While I was getting my crank pulley off my 3500 I think I turned it the other way a few times Here is my thread on the Powrtuner forums for those who have access http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=6093 I am basically being told now that my 96 PCM is no good for tuning, and that I can directly swap in a 97 PCM to give me more tuning options.

You'll still have an oil pressure switch there for the dummy light on the gage cluster. Once in there you won't necessarily see the bolts. With the starter out, you'll see the back face of the flexplate. You need to manually turn the engine and stop when the bolts come into view. There's 3 of them, 120 degrees apart. I rotate the engine using a 1/2" breaker bar on the crank pulley/dampener bolt. Turn clockwise of course. I don't have a pic of this but I'll look around. Yeah I was thinking of trying one of those cams too! I saw your thread on there, I'm on that forum as "Rhedalert". I did a basic tuning method like you suggested, except I went from 3100 settings to 3400 settings. This got me closer. (I have since gone to a 3400 file anyway) I'm hoping we get a 3500 file to view (though I'm just about done with tuning, just curious how the 3500 settings are), but things tend to take a LONG time over there to get anything. I waited over 4 months from the time I purchased the PT to the time I was able to TUNE my Olds. It's tough to get the ball rolling quickly over there if you don't have a 3800, but patience is the key and it will happen.

I have a few minutes at this moment. That lower mount, all you need to do is crawl under the car, and remove the 2 retaining nuts keeping the mount onto its "cup" on the frame. Other things to do.... Bottom: - unbolt AC compressor from bracket and set aside - Remove starter - Remove flexplate-to-torque converter bolts (accessible once starter is removed. You will have to turn the engine manually at the crank pulley to get at all 3) - Disconnect exhaust downpipe (preferred), or unbolt crossover and remove rear exhaust manifold. - Remove right side transmission-to-engine block retaining bolts (I usually just remove the 2 bolts going into the trans diff cone area, and leave the bracket bolted to the engine block) Over: - All hoses including upper, lower, and 2 heater hoses (nearest the throttle body - Remove cables from TB or just unbolt the TB and set it aside - Undo two fuel lines with special quick disconnect tool - Get all accessories out of the way - Unbolt P/S pump and set aside - Remove alternator (preference of mine for added space) keep the bracket bolted to the engine - Disconnect engine wiring harness that goes to the EGR, Throttle body, igniton module, MAP sensor, Oxygen sensor, injector harness, etc and set aside - *** Disconnect knock sensor and oil pressure sensor wiring (You don't want to pull these apart accidentally) - remove crossover heat shield and crossover (optional for added space to get to the bellhousing bolts) - undo bellhousing bolts, disconnect 2 ground wires attached to 2 of these bolts *** ONE Bellhousing bolt in the BACK of the motor is facing the OTHER direction. You can only access this from the passenger side of the car. I usually use a long 1/2" extension and get at it by feel from the passenger side fenderwell. - Support transmission from the bottom with a jack, or jackstand (use a big piece of wood to prevent gouging the pan) - lift up evenly, be sure motor mount lifts out of its cup first, then shake the engine free from the tranny. I may have missed some so I'll add as I think about it.