I'm using an ALDL cable with TunerPro RT to diagnose a no-idle condition.

I'm trying to verify that I'm using the correct acquisition definition and calibration before I rely on the live data.

Can anyone confirm:

1. Which ECM service number and mask should this car use?
2. Which ADX (or ADS) is the correct one for a 1990 LH0 W-body?
3. Which XDF and stock BIN correspond to that ECM?
4. Is A109 correct, or is there a better definition for this application?
5. Has anyone successfully scanned a 1990 LH0 with TunerPro RT, and if so, what files were you using?

Current symptoms:

• Fuel pressure is 38–40 PSI.
• Engine will run smoothly if I keep it alive with the throttle.
• It will not establish an idle on its own.
• Code 34 has appeared.
• Code 34 Cleared.
• MAP values appear reasonable (while running), but some other parameters don't seem to decode correctly.
• I have already verified ignition wire routing and corrected several vacuum hose issues.

I'm trying to verify my scan data before replacing any more parts.

i was trying to switch os 9384015 to 9383994 would this work in a buick park ave ultra 2000 pcm going into a 2001 monte carlo ss with an 01 valve body and hd diff swapped?

monte carlo pcm is p01 p59 os id: 12207406

I dont know the best route but looking for any advice…

I've been looking for a alternative pcm by the way but I'm focusing on seeing if i can get help on programming the 03 sensors since i used credits on hp tuners already. 

It read VIN OK, went to read and I get "unsupported Bin".

No problem, I still have the database update file... applied it, and...

STILL wont read bin, tried uninstalling and reinstalling countless times.  Just wont go.

Yes I have framework and tis GM file or whatever installed.

Yes its a Windows XP laptop.

I even tried an "offboard" that I made 20+ years ago.

IIRC, The database update consisted of replacing a file in the powertuner folder in program files, and then double clicking on the registry file to update the registry.

Funny though, the powertuner will read and burn BIN's to my 2000 GP no problem.

Only thing I can think of is I am missing a step with the DB update, or I'm using software version 1.2.4, and I should be using 1.2.3e (which I don't have and cannot find on the net anywhere).

This powertuner used to work at reading EVERYTHING back in the day with the DB update.  I could read any GP GA Impala Alero Century Regal....  What happened?

Is it worth messing with anymore?  I can upload high res pics of the tuner board if someone wants to try and make an open source gerber file....

I donno. thoughts?

I'd really like to get the Impala's PCM swapped (driveability issues, bad TCC driver in the old PCM) if anyone has any thoughts on how to get the DB update to work.

Also, I am trying to make an adapter harness to run an L67 MAP so I don't have to cut the factory L36 wiring but I'm having trouble finding the female connector everyone uses for their adapters the sell, like ZZP, Casper's and others. Casper's hasn't been able to help me so far. Anyone have a part number for it or knows where to get it?

My cars idle had gone cazy btw 2500 and 3000 rpm s  but it was running great no miss or popping etc, so I took it to a local shop and they said that the intake gasket was bad causing the idle issue. They replaced the gasket and also changed the spark plugs but after that they said it wasn't running well so they took it back apart and said cylinder 4 has a burnt valve and the heads would need to be machined at a cost of about 3000.00 or the engine replaced. They want to charge me 917.00 for what they have done. Something doesn't sound right to me . They were supposed to troubleshoot the idle problem but didn't find the "valve" problem until they reassembled the engine. I asked wouldn't you have discovered that when you did a compression test in the process anyway and they told me no they wouldn't have done a compression test?. I think something is fishy. Anyone have any input for me? Please email me at gr_elvis@yahoo.com .  Thank you  

Since I got it back together with new plug wires, and spark plugs, it goes from a feeling like its holding back under 3500 rpm when floored to smooth over 3500 rpm. It also does a random bucking type of feeling like its skipping or something this happens at any speed but only when its constant, it sometimes just comes out of it and I have to let off the gas a little. Just need to pin point the problem and apparently there is no diagnostic support really on the market, but I am willing to learn how to do the diagnostics myself. I can solder, and I can nerd, just need to know how to build the proper connector and also what software works best with this cars ecm.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/joiqp26ba1u6vo0/AADzYK9rtl6hKvg1xza8mWZ5a?dl=0  

i suggest just down loading the whole damn thing, its much faster to search it all on a hard drive. its about 4 gigs worth of info. 

you super mods might want to sticky his one.  

I have an ALDL cable w/USB, and an old laptop to use.

The "go to" for a while was TunerPro, which from everything I've read, is a great setup, but I've just not had any luck with it.  I'm not looking to change any parameters either.

I've tired TunerPro with my Syclone, as well as a my Fiero, and after spending about 5 hours with it today, it just isn't for me, so looking for another, easier, option.  

TunerPro RT will connect, just for the life of me, can't view any data.  

So, looking for another option!  Just want to see real time data on what the Cutlass is doing, it has a hesitation, and a bit of a rough idle until it is warmed up.

Thanks!

Pontiac Grand prix 1990 turbo 

Any comments on this?

here is a caveat, only mess with the cylinder gain if you are tuning for E85. if you need to adjust your maf sensor to dial in your car, that is different, and hopefully we can get a how-to going soon.

once you change your cylinder gain, it's usually a good idea to do a maf adjustment because it will probably be different.

There is also a way to make your car start easier with E85 because some people have cold start issues, but I don't remember how I did it.

I've also heard that you can install 42.5 lb injectors and run E85 without tuning because they are 30% bigger than stock. 

here are a few things I've learned about E85 over the years: One, ethanol is oxygenated, so it has better duration than unleaded gasoline. Two, ethanol is cleaner than gasoline. Three, it takes about 30% more E85 so expect worse gas mileage. Four, E85 has a propensity to attract water, so if you are like me and store it in your garage, it is best to keep it sealed up in a metal container. Five, E85 has an octane rating of around 105, and it also works well as a chemical intercooler, so you can run a smaller pulley on the supercharger if you have access to a tuner, have bigger injectors and can get E85 somewhat easy. I drove 85 miles to get E85 and store it in a 55 gallon drum. I will buy like 35 gallons at a time and top off my drum. Lastly if you are converting to E85, don't be like me and cheap out on 42 lb injectors because if you are going to run E85, you will max them.

I am currently running a 3.0 pulley with an XP cam, mildly ported heads a gen 5, water/methanol injection and E85 with no kr, and 42 lb injectors that are at 90% duty cycle, so almost maxed out. with 60 lb injectors I would have a huge amount of headroom.