It's probably just my cars they broke on, right?

I'll post a picture tomorrow night.

7/28/11 update - Acting on a tip from another W-bodier I picked up some LED bulbs that fit right into the original housing. These eliminate the heat buildup that causes the switches to go bad. I can provide a set of 4 for $12.

9-30-13 update - All interior LED light conversion bulbs now available. See page 13 for pic and pricing

any body ever experience this?

"Thanks for your inquiry. I have looked into doing some weatherstripping

parts for the '90's Cutlass Supreme convertibles in the past, but

unfortunately the project has several strikes against it. One-they did not

make very many of these cars to begin with. Two-I have been unable to find

any original NOS (new old stock) parts to examine. And three-in the 1990's,

GM changed the weatherstripping parts on these cars so frequently we would

have to do multiple versions of the pieces to cover all the years instead of

one set of parts that fits them all.

In light of this, I still see a scenario where we might produce these parts

sometime in the future. However, we would need someone to find us samples of

the parts to examine before we could go any further. We would very much

prefer NOS samples, but extremely good used samples off of actual cars will

work as well. We would also need volunteers to test fit prototypes if we

were inclined to go forward on development. If you are interested in

discussing this further, please give me a call."

I've checked with a dealership, as they suggest later in the response, but as I'm sure most of you are aware, all the convertible-specific parts are just gone.

My header seal is splitting open and otherwise deteriorating, as are my windshield-door window seals. I get a little bit of water in because of these seals, and it would be nice to be able to replace them.

Does anyone have access to the parts needed for Metro to examine? I don't have any spares and mine aren't in good enough shape to use anyway.

Hoping someone would be able to help me resolve a disagreement I'm currently having with an individual who is wanting to sell a cutlass convertible. They have it listed as a '96 model year, and even before I started researching the subject, I was pretty certain the last year for the conv. was '95. I did some research, and politely suggested that he had miss-typed the year in his add. His response was similar to the effect of, "I can send you an image of the title, and you should Google it, and do your research."  So I dug a little deeper, and didn't find anything anywhere supporting the fact that the convertibles were produced into the 1996 model year. Before responding to them, does anyone have any supporting documentation or a link to such, to help prove my case? 

Thanks in advance! 

I'm currently working on my 95 3.1 vert.  My top goes up, but, does not go down.  I can hear engagement and the top moves up, but, there is nothing when I press "down".  My research as shown that there are separate relays for "up" and "down" and that they should be located near the pump.  Well, I can't find any relays.  Here is a picture of my pump area.  Would someone push me in the right direction.

Thanks.

Purchased the '94 back in November 2017, and been slowly working on bringing it back to a healthy life.

A few stats about it the car:

- 1994 (build date is march of 1994)

- LQ1 3.4L DOHC v6, 4 speed

- Red body, Black interior, White top

- 93,xxx miles

- VIN 1G3WT35XORD377734

I trailered it from Nebraska to Kentucky in December while my plant was closed for holiday shutdown. Couldn't drive it as it was a garage queen and knew it need some work.

Current progress on the car has been a total top end reseal on all gaskets including the dreaded oil pump drive seal. The Head gasket wasn't leaking but the fire ring on cylinder 4 was starting to bulge into the cylinder. So I went ahead and took the heads off and sent them to a machinist and had them check the heads, put new valve stem seals on, and resurface the gasket mating surface.

Other things I've done was chased a fluctuating idle which ended up being a chewed up fuel pressure regulator vac line. Fixed other harness wires from mice damage, including cyl. 3 & 5 injector wires, and oxygen sensor wires, it wasn't bad damage just annoying. I've also replaced the original red and black plug wires, coils, ICM, water pump that had shaft play and noisy bearing, oil pump drive shaft, oil pressure sensor. I've also pulled all lifters out making sure I marked their loaction and let them soak for a week in Berrymans B12 chemtool, and then let 1 week in marvel mystery oil in hopes they would be "refreshed".

I'm currently in process of putting it all back together. So far I've got both cylinder heads on and torqued down. Exhaust manifolds put on, rear head cam carrier on and torqued down. New timing belt idlers on, new plug wires routed to factory look. I also ported and polished the lower intake manifold, but it's too time consuming for too little gain so that's all I did with that.

I'm waiting on a new timing belt actuator from group1autopart.com to finish up the engine.

I've got a list of things needed to be done and a couple boxes full of parts to put on so it'll be road worthy but I will update as I finish things.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

I have a 95 Cutlass Supreme (red on white) with the 3.4L and only 13,000 original miles (it's a Texas car). The drivers side window has a plastic part that is attached to it - it's almost like a guide for the window to run up and down the pillar. I can't seem to identify what you call it - nor, where I'd even look for one. Unfortunately, this part has a crack down it and I don't know how long it will last before it breaks off.

Any help would be appreciated!

JG from Canada.

I just scored 2 nos back window switches on E Bay but that's a back up. 

thanks