Free advice: Many transaxle fluids marketed as "Dex/Merc" compatible have changed their formulation and do not conform to previous Dexron specifications. I suggest using ONLY GM approved Dexron VI fluids OR A "Dex/Merc" fluid that conforms to Alison TES-389.  Alison TES-389 indicates it is compatible with the old Dexron III standard.  Valvoline Dex/Merc is a good option for someone who wants to stay with Dex III. Valvoline MaxLife and other Valvoline fluids seem to be Dex VI compatible now. TES-389 stuff is getting pretty hard to find as of June 2018.

Credits: This do-it-yourself method was originally pioneered by members of OKGPC, so they get full credit for coming up with it. I'm simply giving you my twist on it, along with pictures and a more detailed write-up. This is the exact same kit you get from vendors like W-body Store for less than half of the price.

Synopsis: Install a shift kit utilizing shims in the transaxle shift pressure accumulator.

Difficulty: 3/5. Requires dropping the bottom transaxle pan, removing the shift pressure accumulator, changing the transaxle filter, and refilling the transaxle with fluid.

Parts required:

The parts you need are determined by whether you want to do the medium (light street/strip) or hard (heavy street/strip) shift kit. There's also an optional spring used to firm up the 1-2 shift (usable with either medium or hard). The shims used are available from McMaster-Carr online.

Medium Shift Kit

(2) 92415A865 :: Zinc-Plated Steel Unthreaded Round Spacer 1/2" OD, 1/2" Length, 1/4" Screw Size

(2) 92415A867 :: Zinc-Plated Steel Unthreaded Round Spacer 1/2" OD, 3/4" Length, 1/4" Screw Size

VERY Hard Shift Kit - Seriously this thing is hard. It will chirp the tires on a 1-2 shift and that means extra transmission wear and tear, especially on the drive chain and final drive unit. Use at your own risk.

This is a second warning not to use these shims. Do the medium version.

(2) 92415A867 :: Zinc-Plated Steel Unthreaded Round Spacer 1/2" OD, 3/4" Length, 1/4" Screw Size

(2) 92415A869 :: Zinc-Plated Steel Unthreaded Round Spacer 1/2" OD, 1" Length, 1/4" Screw Size

Required for both kits

8-10 quarts of Dexron VI or Alison TES-389 compliant transmission fluid

Transmission filter

 

Optional for either kit
 

2-3 shift accumulator spring (used to replace the stock 1-2 shift spring). GM part number 24203977.

Directions:

 

1. Raise the front of the car and begin loosening the 10mm bolts on the transmission pan. Loosen the ones toward the back of the car more than the front so the fluid drips toward the long end of the pan. Allow it to nearly fully drain to avoid a huge mess (which is going to happen anyway, it's just saving you at least a little bit of a headache). Remove the pan and clean it off along with the magnet and gasket.

2. With the pan removed we can now access the filter. Pull it straight down firmly, twisting it side to side to break it loose. Change the filter neck gasket if required.

3. Now that the filter is removed, we can now take out the accumulator itself. It's seen below in color, along with the bolts that need to be removed numbered for easy reference. Once these bolts are removed, the accumulator will want to drop down and spill transmission fluid everywhere. Use one hand to hold up the accumulator and another to remove the bolts by hand once they're broken loose. Pull the hard metal lines out of the accumulator using care as not to bend them. Note the location of each metal line.

4. Once the accumulator is removed, place it face-up and remove the remaining bolts. Remove the cover. Inside you'll find two cylinders, both with visible springs. Do one side at a time. Pull up on a spring and remove it. Try to take out only the small spring and the metal plate it sits on, leaving behind the rod and large spring. Put one of the longer shims at the bottom of the rod. If you're using the optional 2-3 spring, and you're working on the 1-2 accumulator, remove the small spring from it's base, and press the new spring onto it. Reinstall the small spring and base onto the rod. Add a short shim in the middle of the spring. Repeat for the other side.

5. Reinstall the cover to the accumulator. Bolt it back into the transmission, using extreme care to reinstall and reseat the hard metal lines. Make absolute certain the lines are reseated properly. If they're not, you'll be left with a slipping transaxle that burns up clutches.. In case you forgot where the lines go, here's a picture:

6. Reinstall the transaxle filter. Put the pan cover back on, and fill the transaxle with approximately 8-10 quarts of ATF, depending on how much fluid you lost. Once you're sure you have the proper fluid level, take the car for a spin and make sure that it's not slipping. If it's all good to go, enjoy your new shift kit! Your wallet will thank you for it!

What you need:

RH&LH Calipers and Brackets 1994+ First Gen

Mounting Bolts to Knuckle (they are very different)

1994+ Parking brake cables (only the rear ones, from the adjuster back)...these are only two parts

Rotors (New)

Brake Pads (New)

Brake Fluid

Slide Pin Grease

Banjo Bolt for 94+ caliper (can reuse)

Crush washers for banjo bolt (new)

Step 1:

Jack car off of the ground, remove wheels, remove bolt for brake hose to strut, loosen and remove banjo bolt (fluid will leak so be ready). Remove parking brake cable from caliper. Remove caliper, rotor and also splash shield (held on to knuckle with two very small bolts). By this time i'm sure your family will wonder if you are crazy.

Step 2: Remove existing parking brake cables form car (only from equalizer back). Re-install bolts that hold the cables in where it crosses ahead of the gas tank, otherwise you'll have a leak. Save the equalizer and spring if you don't get new ones with your 94+ cables.

Step 3: Either remove your auxiliary spring brackets that are on your rear lateral links OR do what i did and make a 3/4" knotch in the corner with a cut-off wheel for caliper clearance. (If you have a 94 Lumina you may not have this issue, its what I ran into on my dad's 1990 FE3 car)

Step 4: Cut mounting bracket on brake hose off carefully with cut off tool (don't get it too hot). You will also have to straighten the metal part of the line near the banjo bolt so it will mount to the 94+ caliper. You CANNOT use 94+ brake hoses because they drop off of the body behind the strut and the earlier version mounts ahead of the strut. You may want to get new hoses because yours may be rusty or brittle (and possibly crack).

Step 5: Now we're in the home stretch....install the 94+ rotor and use one of your stock lug nuts (put the hex toward the rotor) to hold it in place. Slide the mounting bracket over the rotor and secure it with the mounting bolts. Make sure to torque them to the factory specs (I assume you have a Haynes manual). thoroughly clean the slide pin surface (will be closest to the strut) and apply fresh SLIDE PIN grease. Slide the caliper on to the slide pin and install the abutment clips and brake pads. Finally install the bottom bolt through the bottom slide pin (captured in caliper). Make sure the boots are not leaving any of the pins exposed. Install brake hose using the 94+ banjo bolt and new crush washers.

Step 6: Bleed system. I use a glass jar and some vacuum line for this job. That way, you can easily see that you got all the air out. Have someone inside pump the pedal and don't forget to check the master cylinder. Start with the right rear first.

Step 7: Install 94+ cables.

that is a picture of how they route in a 94 car. Route them how you please, using this as a guide. The place where the old style cables clip into the frame doesn't work anymore. I used quite a few zip ties. Adjust the cable how you please. If its an automatic car, you should not be able to pull away with the parking brake on and the car in drive.

Crack a beer and enjoy more reliable brakes! My dad's car is a Non-ABS car and it stops straight and true without having premature rear lock up even on dirt.

Also another good thing to do would be to look at your front rotors and make sure the inboard side (toward the engine) does not look like this.

For parts, whitebox rotors are ok, although I highly suggest you use the NAPA Tru-Stop pads (about $22). Expensive pads in the rear won't do much for you.

Heres what youll need, and what youll need to do.

First you need a 282/284 master and slave cylinder. I get them from roack auto on a wholesale closeout. They are very cheap and have name brands. These come with everything you need to install them.

Youll need these fittings for the slave and master cylinders:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/

Heres the SS braided line that I used. NOTE: you can use a straigh line instead of one with a 90*. I just liked how this fit better than the straight line. Length is 20" which is more than enough room. I used an 18" hose, and its close. Not very much slack to move the line around.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220314/overview/

Now that you have all the parts, heres how to put them together. I HIGHLY recommend wearing some type of glove, as working with brake fluid sucks, and its nasty stuff.

Step 1 - Remove pin from slave cylinder which holds the hose in place. Remove the accumulator from the salve cylinder. Be sure to keep the salve cylinder vertial at all times to avoid any brake fluid from spilling out.

Step 2 - Insert one of the fittings into the slave clinder. Insert supplied pin, and use cotter pin for extra insurance. If cotter pin is too long, cut to decent length.

Step 3 - Install SS hose on the fitting. The 90* end of the hose will be installed on the slave cylinder. This will come clear later as you install it in the car. Remember, the whole time your doing this, keep slave cylinder vertical as to not spill brake fluid. Make sure fitting is TIGHT.

Step 4 - Time to work with master cylinder. Keep master cylinder vertical at all times while working as to not spill brake fluid. Remove pin holding the clutch line into the master cylinder.

Step 5 - Install the other fitting into the master cylinder. Insert supplied pin, and use cotter pin for extra insurance. If cotter pin is too long, cut to decent length.

Step 6 - Install SS hose to the master cylinder. Make sure fitting is TIGHT.

Now you have your custom SS braided hydrualic assembly!

Now comes the best part, bleeding! ( insert sarcasm )

This is how Ive always bled the 284 hydrualics, and have had very good results by doing it this way. Since you have made your hydrualic assembly, you now have air in the SS hose. Heres how to get rid of that air.

You will need to set this up EXACTLY like the following:

Step 1 - Have the reservoir as the highest point in the system. Then the master cylinder. SS hose is to be straight down, with no low or horizontal spots, and the slave cylinder at the bottom. Basically if you help the clutch hydrualics in the air by the reservoir, thats what it needs to look like while you are bleeding it.

Step 2 - Unclip the pushrod in the slave cylinder, and allow it to extend completely.

Step 3 - Heres where all the work is involved. Having the system as told in Step 1, push down on the slave cylinder to retract the pushrod. Once you have done that, allow the pushrod to extend completely. While doing this, watch the reservoir, and youll be able to see all the air bubbles coming up. Repeat this process untill you no longer see air coming up.

Once you have bled your hydrualic system, install in the car, and enjoy your new, better pedal feel!

***NOTE***

This is how I did mine. I have bled the hydrualics several times like this, sometimes I do this for 5 minutes, and other times for 30+ minutes. Just depends on how much air is in the system.

digitaloutsider - W-body.com - April 18, 2017

Overview: This guide is intended for 3800 (particularly the Supercharged Series II [L67] and Series III [L32]) owners who are new to modifying their car for performance.  This document is not intended to be an all-encompassing how-to for running 11's.  Within this guide, I will discuss how to safely, and rather inexpensively, modify your supercharged 3800 to pick up a few ponies as well as dispel some myths about the platform.

Acknowledgements:  The idea for this guide originated on GrandPrixForums in 2009 by Nick (blueguy), however, some parts of that guide have become outdated by losing various vendors, conducting better research, and finding betters ways of doing things.  Much of Nick's guide is still relevant today and it's certainly worth the read when you have the time, OR if you want to go faster than the modifications in this guide allow for. 

Introduction: So you've decided to steal cable modify your 3800 car.  Great choice!  Whether you're looking to learn more about engines and performance or just want to make your way to the grocery store faster, the GM 3800 platform offers an easy and cost-effective starting point.  When it debuted in 1996, the Series II 3800 offered class-leading supercharged performance.  Fortunately or unfortunately, the rest of the world kept moving, and in the days of 300 horsepower minivans, 240 ponies doesn't seem as impressive anymore, especially considering we have a supercharger bolted on.  Good thing we're only a few clicks away from a lot of extra power being delivered right to our door.

I would like to layout a very specific caveat:  The transmission.  The GM 4T65E was used in all Supercharged 3800 applications from 1997 to 2007.  It was also bolted to everything from 170 HP 3100s all the way up to 300 HP LS4 V8s with very little overall differences.  This, of course, means that GM's bean counters were in full effect in regards to the design of this transmission, and there were cost cutting measures taken.  The internals of the 4T65E bolted to your 3800 are largely no different than the ones in a base Buick Century.  Towards that end, it's best to just accept now that the more you modify your car, the greater your risk of breaking your transmission are.  Fortunately, if you're serious about going fast, high performance transmission builds can be purchased from vendors like Triple Edge Performance.

I would recommend that one of your first modifications be a transmission cooler.  I would also recommend the medium shift kit as outlined in this guide, or the TransGo shift kit.

Before you mod:  You need to fix everything wrong with your car before you modify it.  You need to fix everything wrong with your car before you modify it.  You need to fix everything wrong with your car before you modify it.  You'd think that this guidance would be self-evident, but after being on the various W-body/3800 forums and Facebook groups over the last 15 years, I'm sorry to tell you that it is not.  Before you change ANYTHING to alter the performance of your car, you need to be sure that it's in good working order.  Let's be honest, the newest supercharged 3800 car is 10 years old now, the oldest is over 20.. most of them are going to be in various states of disrepair.

You need to, at the very least, perform a basic tune-up and catch up on years of deferred maintenance.  Nick actually outlined this very well in his original guide, so I will copy it mostly verbatim here.  Start here:

1. Lower intake manifold gaskets and coolant elbows if they haven't been done (if you aren't 100% sure, just do them).
2. New spark plugs and wires.
3. Oil change, preferably switch to synthetic and a quality filter.
4. Fuel filter.
5. Coolant Flush.  There is no compelling reason to move away from Dexcool, don't bother doing it.
6. Transmission fluid and filter. Dexron VI or Alison TES-389 compliant ONLY. Generally need ~7 quarts for a pan drop.
7. 100k+ mile engines: Change the supercharger oil. Do not use ANYTHING other than the proper S/C oil from the dealer.
8. S/C and Serpentine belts.

Once all of that is taken care of, you can start to move into the next major step..

Scanning:  The basis for everything we do with performance mods will center around scanning the car and knowing what's going on inside.  If you don't have a scantool that can read Knock Retard, do not modify your car. It's as simple as that.  I don't care what ZZP told you, I don't care what your buddy says, I don't care what some guy on Facebook posted; if you don't have a scantool that can read Knock Retard, do not modify your car.  Knock Retard, or KR, happens when the PCM detects predetonation (knock) and pulls timing to prevent engine damage.  Your goal is to have 0 degrees of KR all the time.  People will tell you that there's a "safe level" of KR, and on a stock car, sure, there might be.  But as you start increasing boost and power, even small amounts of KR can bring our old pal Chippy the Piston to visit.

Like most things about this platform, it's cheap and easy to scan.  If you own an Android phone or tablet, the lowest cost of entry is to buy a BAFX Bluetooth OBD-II adapter and Torque Pro.  iOS users can purchase OBD Fusion, and the website lists all compatible adapters.  Cheap Android devices are getting so inexpensive that you could probably pick one up from eBay and just keep it in the car all the time to use with Torque.

If you've scanned and everything looks kosher, it's probably safe to start throwing some mods at the car.

The basics:  

Intake. The first mod most owners do is an intake.  And why wouldn't you?  It's a great first step because it frees up a little power, but more importantly it sounds awesome.  Supercharger whine is cooler than going fast, anyway.  Really though, I'd start here.  It's cheap.  You don't need to spend hundreds of dollars on an intake, but I also don't recommend just plopping a cone on the end of the throttle body.

For 99-05 L67, go buy 4" PVC pipe from Home Depot along with a cone air filter (for 97-98 L67, go buy the newer F-duct and do all the following stuff).  Remove the factory airbox.  Cut the PVC pipe to the proper length.  You want to slide the pipe far enough in the F-duct (the rubber coupler that attaches to the throttle body) to bypass the accordion folds.  Have the filter as far into the corner of the engine bay as you can so it gets the coolest air possible.  You can get a PCM tray out of a 90's S-Series Blazer/Jimmy/whatever if you want to secure it to the car.  I have used foam pipe wrap (like what goes around residential HVAC lines) to put around and under the PCM to prevent it from being banged around.

For 04-07 L32 Grand Prix, the same pretty much applies, but you'll be attaching the pipe to the MAF tube.
 

If you like to spend a lot of money, CAIs are available from various manufacturers including ZZP, Cold Air Inductions, and others. 

Exhaust.  What goes in must come out, right?  Unfortunately the stock exhaust, especially on the L67 cars, is awful.  The front manifolds have casting artifacts throughout and the ports are often uneven in diameter.  Things get worse once you leave the manifolds as the factory downpipe is double walled, which reduces the ID down to 2.5" and there's an insanely stupid "U-bend" in the pipe where the rear O2 sensor installs.  GM removed their cranium from their anus and the L32 cars lack the U-bend, but still have the same 2.5" piping.  Before ANY pulley drop, the factory downpipe should be removed.  There are two ways to go about doing this:

ZZP bolt-in downpipe. If you're keeping the stock catback (which is generally good to 300 WHP), select the 3" DP and 2.5" flange exit.  If you're having an exhaust shop weld up a full 3" exhaust, select the 3" DP with 3" exit or exit flange depending on how you want it.  Do not buy the 2.5" downpipe for a supercharged application.  It's up to you whether or not you want to buy a catted version, but be aware that not having a cat will trigger a check engine lamp.  The ZZP downpipe can be used standalone or mated to a..

ZZP Powerlog. ZZP offers two Powerlogs, one for the front, and one for the rear.  Think of these as the most extreme form of ported exhaust manifolds you can buy, but better. If you're not going totally insane, a front Powerlog and downpipe is a great place to start.  It removes both the restrictive front manifold and U-bend.  You can reasonably expect to drop a couple of degrees in KR from these two alone.  If you want to free the exhaust up more, ZZP also offers a rear Powerlog, and with both logs combined with the downpipe, you get a very reasonable facsimile to headers.. without the fitment issues.  Yes, it's kind of pricy to do it this way, but it also just bolts together and works.

Headers. Once upon a time, there were a lot of vendors peddling their own version of 3800 headers.  You had SLP, Thrasher/TOGs, Pacesetters.. today the market is a lot smaller.  Your primary players are ZZP, Speed Daddy, and OBX.

First up, the ZZP headers. Downside: they're very expensive. Upside: they "just work" and fit, but for that price they ought to. 

The most popular headers available for the W-body/3800 are Speed Daddy headers off of eBay. The big upside? They're cheap and they're based on (ripped off) SLP's design. $210 for a full set of headers shipped right to your door.  The downside is that they don't fit perfect for everybody. Some people, particularly Regal owners, get stuck having to find creative ways to bash the firewall into make the O2 sensor fit.  Others run these with no problem at all.  If you don't want to spend tons of cash on exhaust and don't mind working a little to make them perfect, the SD's are a great choice.  Be sure to throw away every gasket and clamp in the box.  Buy a better flange gasket and use band clamps.  It's also likely that the flex section will blow out at some point.  Replace it and it's good to go.

The last major manufacturer is OBX.  They're ripoff Pacesetters.  Real Pacesetters were bad enough.. don't buy these.

Thermostat. You're going to see a lot of people with a lot of opinions when it comes to thermostats.  In my opinion, 160 degree t-stats are just too cold.  You don't get any heat in the winter, and 2001+ cars will throw a check engine lamp for coolant temp under regulated temperature.  Your best bet is a quality 180 degree thermostat, with a small hole drilled in it to make bleeding easier.

Tune. One of the best ways to wake a car up and eliminate KR is to tune it.  Factory tunes are conservative and are intended to make the car work in a wide variety of driving situations, no matter what weather, what time of year, what elevation, etc.  Performance tunes are meant for going fast.  Like most things we've talked about, you have a few options here:

Canned Tune.  Canned tunes, or "mail order" tunes are generic performance tunes that are provided to the customer via shipping a PCM (Powertrain Control Module) back and forth to the vendor.  These are generally not tuned specifically for you and will never be as good as an in-car street or dyno tune.  That being said, they can be a good place to start and might even make sense for someone who is going to stick with only minor mods.  You can buy tunes from Overkill, INTENSE, and ZZP.  Keep in mind that the PCM is really at the heart of your performance build.. I would certainly do your own research before you decide to buy from a vendor.  Google is your friend and these cars are VERY well documented.

Tuner.  You've got two choices here, HPTuners or DHP.  

HPTuners is a full vehicle tuning and scanning suite that works on a LOT of different GM, Ford, and Chrysler vehicles, not just our 3800 cars.  The base VCM Suite offers 8 vehicle credits, which is enough for 4 different 3800 cars.  If you're serious about tuning, you probably can't go wrong with HPT.. unfortunately it's pricey: $500 for the standard version, $650 for the "professional" version. Supports up to 2007.

DHP or Digital Horsepower/PowrTuner is a now-depreciated tuning and scanning suite.  DHP debuted in the mid 2000's and was abandoned by 2011 or so.  While that means there's no official support, it also means it has a relatively low cost of entry.  You can usually find used DHP interfaces for around $250 in the various 3800/W-body classifieds.  Combined with TinyTuner, DHP still offers a compelling selection of options and great 3800 tuning capabilities. 97-04 cars only. 

Pulley. There's a reason why this section is at the end.  A pulley drop should never be your first modification.  Yes, a smaller pulley means more boost, but more boost out of an M90 also means more heat.  More heat means more knock.  If you haven't done the proper supporting mods first, Chippy the Piston will be making a visit to your engine.  Assuming you've got a strong running stock car, you've freed up the intake and exhaust, and you've scanned throughly ensuring you have no KR, you're safe to drop a pulley.  Avoid the thought process where smaller pulley = moar better. That isn't true. With the right combination of tuning and supporting mods, a car with a bigger pulley can outperform one with a smaller pulley and no/poorly executed mods.

You have two options for changing pulley sizes.  You can buy either a press-on pulley, which requires a special tool remove AND install or an MPS hub.  An MPS hub allows you to bolt on different pulleys with just the use of an allen wrench.  If you plan on doing more mods in the future, an MPS hub is probably the best deal.  You can buy them new from INTENSE and ZZP for about $100.  Each MPS kit comes with one pulley.  No matter whether you go with an MPS or Press-on, a SUPERCHARGER PULLEY REMOVAL TOOL MUST BE USED.  DO NOT USE ANY OTHER TYPE OF PULLEY PULLER ON YOUR SUPERCHARGER.

The following is a list of pulleys that are "generally regarded as safe" with the appropriate mods:

Generation 3 M90 (L67):

3.6" pulley - A great starting point for a car with minimal mods, such as maybe just a downpipe and intake.

3.5" pulley - Good choice for an intake, front powerlog, and downpipe.

3.4" pulley - Consider the 3.4" if you're running an intake, full headers, and a tune.  You should also consider a cooler spark plug, such as the Autolite 104.

Generation V M90 (L32, 04+ GP):

3.6" pulley - The defacto "safe" L32 pulley if you don't have lots of modifications. You should at least have a 3" downpipe. Preferably a front Powerlog.

3.5" pulley - If you have headers (or F&R Plog + DP) and a tune, a 3.5" pulley can be a good fit for the L32 cars.

3.4" pulley - All of the above, plus 1.9 rockers.

Advanced Modding considerations:

As stated earlier in this guide, my primary goal is to give novice 3800 owners a good starting point to begin modifying their car.  In my honest opinion, once you start dropping below 3.4" pulleys and headers, you really need to have a good mental grasp on the work that you're doing.  At that point, you should NOT be relying on a guide to tell you how to mod your car.  You need to understand tuning and be able to change your own PCM around without relying on canned tunes.  That being said, I will BRIEFLY talk about a few of the more advanced modifications available to you once you feel more confident in your abilities.

E85.  E85 is race fuel on a budget.  Not only are you getting 105 octane out of the box, you're getting the added benefit of ethanol cooling the intake charge.  If you live in an area with easy availability to E85 and you're comfortable with tuning, you might want to move this modification up a little in your list.  E85 suppresses knock and allows for much smaller pulleys and more advanced timing.  When it comes to bang-for-the-buck, I'm not sure you can do any better.  You will NEED a fuel pump rewire kit, bigger injectors, and a tune. Some people will tell you that you can get away with just dropping in 42.5 lbs injectors and throwing in a tank of E85 on the stock tune. That's partially right.. E85 requires 30% more fuel, and those injectors are approximately 30% bigger.  Unfortunately, that does not account for other tuning that is required to prevent hard cold starts and other drivability issues. 42.5s will likely be too small of an injector if you plan on seriously modding (sub 3.2" pullies, cam, etc).  If you're moving to E85 for performance, start with the 60 lbs Siemens/Deka injectors. Keep in mind that your gas mileage WILL suffer. If you can't get E85 easily, your next best bet is an..

Intercooler.  The next bang-for-the-buck advanced mod would be an intercooler.  Let's face it, the M90s just aren't efficient superchargers when you start spinning them faster than they were originally designed for.  The incredibly hot intake charge promotes knock and kills power.  If you're serious about performance, and you can't get E85, you need an intercooler.  Intercoolers are pricey, but give you the ultimate flexibility with pulleys, tunes, and fuel options.  You don't need to worry about straying too far from an E85 station when you're running an IC.  You can buy intercooler kits or piece your own together. Ed makes some great phenolic core ICs, which are available here.  If you're going to piece a kit together, start with his core. Edit: GrandPrixForums is down for now.  Ed's store eBay store is available here.

Rockers.  High-ratio rockers can be an easier alternative to a mild cam. You won't get as big of gains out of them (since you're only altering the cam lift, not duration, overlap, etc.). Stock rockers are 1.6:1 ratio. The higher the ratio, the more valve lift the rockers add. The ratio of the rockers determines that lift. For example, with a set of 1.9 ratio rockers, the rocker will move 1.9 times the lift of the cam. Adding higher ratio rockers not only increases power out of the box, you're also generally able to run smaller SC pullies and add timing as the engine becomes more efficient at moving air in and out. Deciding on rockers really depends on your future modding considerations. If you plan on a cam, don't bother with rockers; unless you're running a VERY small ratio (like 1.65:1 or 1.7:1), you're not going to be able to pair different ratio rockers and a cam. You will need to upgrade your valve springs when running higher ratio rockers (and let's be honest, your engine probably has well over 100k miles. It's time to do it anyway). It's recommended that you use GM L76/L92 valve springs (GM PN#12589774) and retainers (GM PN#10166344). While you have the springs out, go ahead and change the valve stem seals. You can reuse your stock keepers/locks.

Camshaft upgrades are well beyond the scope of this guide.  Fortunately, these cars are so well documented it's usually pretty easy to find what you need by searching Google.  Keep in mind that mild cams such as the VS and S1X need much less work to get running than more wild cams like the XPZ or S3. 

Conclusion:

Hopefully I've helped to remove a lot of the mystery around modding these cars.  The 3800 platform is simple, reliable, and cheap.  It's a great way for novice tuners and builders to cut their teeth before moving onto bigger and better things.  If you can think of any additional information you would like here, or if I missed something, or if you think I'm a moron, feel free to comment below.  I'd like to hear your feedback!

Tools Required:  24mm socket for the crank bolt, 19mm socket for the lug nuts, 18mm socket for the subframe bolts, 15mm/belt tool for the belts, 13mm socket for the crank position sensor bolts, 10mm socket for the flexplate inspection cover, harmonic balancer puller, OEM 27296 GM 3800 bolt kit, screwdriver, various extensions, torque wrench, breaker bar/impact/both, vice grips, ratchet.

Instructions:

1. Remove the drive belt(s) from the engine.

2. Lift the passenger side of the car and remove the right front wheel. Always use jackstands, NEVER trust jacks, especially not scissor jacks. Only place jackstands on a solid surface like concrete or asphalt.

3. Remove the flexplate inspection cover:

4. Put vice grips on the flexplate to prevent it from rotating. There is probably a J-tool for this, but this how I've always done it:
 

5. Remove the undercarriage passenger side splash shield.

6. Lower the subframe/engine cradle on the passenger side by approximately one inch.  You should not be totally removing the bolts and insulators. 

7. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt.

8. Insert the adapter pin from the OEM kit into the hole in the balancer where the bolt came out of.

9. Attach the balancer remover.  You should be using washers on the heads of the bolts, unlike my picture:

10. Tighten the center bolt on the puller until the balancer comes loose.  Remove the puller and remove the balancer.  If you're only replacing the balancer, you are done with removal. Proceed to step 16.

11. With the balancer removed, unplug the connector from the CKPS. Looks like I have a small front main seal leak.  I'll worry about it later:

12. Remove the black plastic debris shield.

13. Remove the two 13mm bolt/studs that hold the CKPS. Remove the CKPS.

14. Install new CKPS. Bolt torque is 22 lb ft.

15. Reinstall debris shield and plug sensor in.

16. Reinstall harmonic balancer and bolt. Torque is 111 lb ft, plus 76°.

17. Reinstall splash shield.

18. Remove vice grips and reinstall dust cover.

19. Reattach wheel and torque lug nuts to 100 lb ft. 

20. Reinstall drive belts.

So lets get right to the point. Who likes a write up if it does not have pictures? Not me!

Does any of your windows go down but not up?

Does any of your windows go up but not down?

My problem was that my drivers side window would roll down But not up! So I was not about to fork out 80$ for a new switch. Call me crazy But I wasn’t going to pay 40$ for a switch that might do the same problem. Call me a Penny pincher if you must. So lets get started.

Take the switch out of the car. And place it on the table!

Next pop the plastic pieces off the switch that you press to roll the window down. Then turn the switch over and wedge a small flat head screw driver in-between the black plastic casing and the white switch, and get the black plastic off of the Switch “guts†Next you will see this.

There are now 4 clear plastic peaces where the switch snaps on to

The clear peaces are held on by 2 pivot points And snap out

Next you will see to metal pieces under where the plastic was, Mine where charged black. This is after cleaning the, (I used hot water and q-tips) Pop the metal pices out and clean them, There are also to contact point under each switch, Clean them two

Put de-electric grease on them. And put the metal piece where they were, snap the clear plastic piece back on

Re-assemble and enjoy your new working window switch!

To start, light output ratings:

Stock 9006 - 55 watts - 1000 lumens

Stock 9005 - 65 watts - 1700 lumens

HIR 9012 - 55 watts - 1870 lumens

HIR 9011 - 65 watts - 2350 lumens

HID 35 watts @ 6000k - 2800 lumens

HID 55 watts @ 6000k - 3350 lumens

Here, I'm going to make recommendations for upgraded lighting based on price of install and difficulty from lowest to highest.

9005 Bulbs in 9006 housings

This is the easiest and cheapest way to go. You can retrofit 9005 high beam bulbs into 9006 housings, which will give you a 70% increase in lighting power. I don't recall exactly what you need to modify, but the only difference between the two bulbs in regard to socket fitment is a notch on the 9005 bulb. If you can shave that notch down with a file to make it look identical to a 9006 bulb, it will fit in the 9006 housing. Simply look at both bulbs from the back, and figure out where you need to file down.

HIR Bulbs

HIR (Halogen Infrared) bulbs were initially designed by GE and produced by Toshiba for automotive use up until 2009. After 2009, they stopped producing them, and Phillips picked up production, making some output improvements in the process. These bulbs are the next best thing to HIDs, and use the same amount of power as your factory Halogens do. A few small modifications need to be made as described here:

http://shnu.us/HIR%20Trimming%20Stock.htm

Note that you can fit either a 9011 or 9012 HIR bulb in your stock 9006 housing. 9011 bulbs were generally designed to be high beams, while 9012 bulbs were designed to be low beams. Note in the output comparison that a 9011 bulb (which can be modified to fit into a 9006 housing quite easily), will have a mere 16% light output decrease over 35W HIDs.

These are the ONLY recommended upgrades for high means in cars. HIDs are NOT recommended, for reasons that I will go into in the next section.

HIR bulbs can be purchased at these two websites:

http://store.candlepower.com/hirlighting.html

http://hirheadlights.com/

HID Kits

These kits use a different lighting method that will be described later in this article. This technology uses a ballast and bulb in conjunction to produce a very high light output. Installation of HID kits is recommended ONLY for projector fog lights (Bonneville GXP and similar) and low beams. They are very commonly available from a variety of vendors, but many members have reported great experiences with kits from ddmtuning.com. These kits come in both 35W and 55W variants, the latter of which will provide only 20% increase in lighting power. Installation of these kits is not recommended without modifications to the headlight housing or projector lense retrofit.

If you are interested in running HIDs, be very well aware that the central light output location will be different from your typical 9006 bulb. As a result, you will need to readjust your headlights after installing them.

Because factory housings are designed to produce a small amount of ambient light, HID kits will spread this light to blind oncoming drivers. You can resolve this problem by either retrofitting projector lenses, purchasing aftermarket housings with projector lenses, or at a bare minimum, deactivating the bottom horizontal reflector in the housing. This modificaiton requires that you remove the lense from the housing, mask off the entire reflector of the low beam except for the bottom horizontal reflector, and paint that reflector with high heat flat black paint. This will significantly reduce the amount of ambient light shining up into oncoming drivers, and may very well keep you from getting pulled over for being a road hazard.

HID kits are illegal, and if a police officer is pulling you over for an unrelated offense and having a bad day, he may ticket you for having them. Keep this in mind when installing these kits, and make every effort possible to ensure the safety of other drivers.

These kits are NOT recommended for high beam applications. High beams are not intended to be used while driving through traffic, need to be ready on demand to signal other drivers immediately or to increase you vision at a moment's notice. HID kits take up to 30 seconds to fully warm up, which affects your ability to use them at a moment's notice. In addition, HID ballasts will be damaged by being turned on and off repetitively, which will be the case if you're using them while driving through winding roads and turning them off and on repetitively to prevent blinding other drivers.

Heat comparison: Halogens vs. HIDs

There have been great debates in regard to which runs hotter. The truth is that the core of an HID bulb runs hotter than a halogen bulb. However, that core's heat is a result of light output and energy, whereas halogen bulbs produce light as a result of heat.

Halogen bulbs, unlike normal light bulbs, use halogen gas, a tungsten filament, and a quartz encasing. The reason why the encasing is quartz is because if it were glass, it would melt as a result of the heat. The current passes through the filament, heating it to the point to where it creates light. Notice, it has to get hot in order to create that light. The Halogen gas inside the bulb is there to prevent oxidization of the hot filament. To make a comparison, this is like a space heater.

HID's use a completely different method. The bulb consists of two electrodes placed in very close proximity to each other. The gas used here is Xenon. Unlike with Halogen-filament bulbs, the light is created by the gas, not by a filament. HID's use a ballast which consists of a series of high current capacitors, transistors, and resistors. To light a Xenon bulb in an HID kit, the ballast takes in a small amount of power and sends a very intense charge of electricity across the electrodes. This is why they're called High Intensity Discharge. The electrical charge excites the gas molecules inside the bulb and causes them to discharge photon particles, producing light. The entire capsule of gas is then "lit," taking up to 30 seconds, and because all of the gas in the capsule is used to create the light instead of just one filament, you end up with much brighter overall light output. The ballast regulates a constant flow of power only to keep the gas molecules excited, while a standard filament based light requires a constant intense electrical current to keep the filament hot.

I have confirmed with a simple test that 55W HIDs run significantly cooler than 55W halogens do as a result of this by placing my hand on the surface of the lense after a 30 minute drive.

Credit where credit is due

http://www.essortment.com/hobbies/highintensityd_siyc.htm

http://hirheadlights.com/

This post will deal with one of the more annoying features of the 60 Degree V6, more particularly the LQ1. As luck would have it, we're not the only ones with this issue but our cars are more suspectable to be sent to the junkyard than those with a 350SBC (A well known engine that has the heater hose quick disconnect fitting) This is the "Quick Disconnect" fitting that is located on the lower intake manifold (LIM for short) and has a tube that runs to the heater hose by the brake booster (or at least, that's how it's configured on the LQ1. I cannot speak of the 3.1MPFI nor the 3100 SFI as I do not own one).

If your engine uses the DORMAN 800-401 quick disconnect fitting, this post is for you. If your engine does not use this fitting, then this post is not for you. You can continue reading to get an idea of how to fix your quick disconnect issues (which is basically just using a barb fitting to replace the quick disconnect) but this is to delete the DORMAN 800-401 fitting.

This mod/fix is an alternative to replacing the Dorman 800-401. More often than not, this piece leaks right where the plastic clip that holds the tube to the heater hose fitting is pressed in.

I will describe how to convert that piece from a Dorman "Quick Disconnect" hose, to an old fashioned hose and worm clamp fitting, like so.

[photobucket ruined the link, will update soon]

Materials you will need:
 

1/2 ratchet

3" extension (OPTIONAL)

27mm 6 point socket (Deep is better, but shallow works too)

Teflon Tape (also known as plumber's tape)

5/8 in ID x 1/2 in MIP barb fitting. You can source this piece from the Home Depot or Lowe's. HD part number is LFA-493.

3/8 Ratchet (may be able to use 1/2)

19mm or similar socket

3 feet of 5/8 hose (or you can measure how much you really need, I only needed 26")

2 worm clamps 

1/4 ratchet

7mm or similar socket, depending on the size of your worm clamp's screw

1/4 3" and 6" extensions, as this will help reach into that area more comfortably

Flathead screwdriver (may or may not help)

Extra anti-freeze/coolant mix

Step 1: Disconnect MAF sensor (94+), IAT sensor, vacuum lines and any other accessories on the intake tube.
 

Step 2: Remove the air filter box and intake tubing. If you have replaced your air box with a cone filter, remove the intake tube. You may have to remove the MAF (if so equipped) to move around the intake tubing and air box more freely. You may or may not have to actually remove the air box. The goal here is to have room under the throttle body, where the quick disconnect fitting is located.

Step 3: Locate the heater hose disconnect and place a catch pan, bucket, tupperware, bowl of choice under the heater hose.

Step 4: Remove the heater hose pipe at the quick disconnect by pressing on the clip in an inward motion and pulling out. If you're lucky (or better said, if your engine has already emptied itself via that tube) you probably will only get a couple drops out of that tube.

Step 5: Drain bowl of choice in a designated coolant storage pan for proper disposal (AKA I'm not responsible if you let the coolant go in the drain and you get caught/ticketed for it. Always dispose of fluids properly).

Step 6: place bowl of choice under the quick disconnect fitting (Once removed it does leak a bit)

Step 7: Remove the quick disconnect hose fitting with the 27mm socket.

Step 8: Once all coolant is out of the LIM, drain the bowl of choice into your designated coolant storage pan and set aside.

Step 9: Wrap teflon tape around the barb fitting. Remember, the 1/2" is the size of the thread side. 5/8 is the size of the barb where the hose goes.

Step 10: Thread in the barb fitting into the socket with your fingers. Make sure it is in straight and not crooked as a crooked fitted barb fitting will mess up the threads.

Step 11: Once verified that the barb fitting is straight and will no longer finger tighten, use your 19mm (or similar) socket and tighten barb fitting until tight. If you wish to torque it, please torque below the recommended torque spec for the quick disconnect fitting. Remember this isn't an OEM part, so take caution. 10lb ft torque should suffice.

Step 12: Remove the hose at the heater hose pipe

Step 13: Measure and cut your 5/8 hose then fit with worm clamps

Step 14: Slide the hose on the barb and tighten the worm clamp with the 1/4 socket. Socket size and extensions needed may differ on your selected worm clamp and socket location. I was able to get it using a 7mm socket and a 6" extension fitted through a passageway under the throttle body.

Step 15: Place the 5/8 hose on the heater hose pipe nipple and tighten the worm clamp there.

Step 16: Fill radiator (and reserve bottle) to appropriate levels.

Step 17: Check for leaks. No leaks = a successful fix!

Here's what you'll need:

1/2" socket wrench

1/2" 5" extension

1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor

3/8" universal joint

3/8" 3" extension

3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket

Here's what you do:

First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on

courtesy of Ben (Turbo231)

To resolve the alternator issue, there are, fortunately, factory replacement options that we can embrace.

Fortunately for us, GM used the same mounting points for multiple alternators . The common CS130 and CS130D used in many of our cars can be replaced with the GM CS144 (or CS-144). The CS144 amplifier comes in varieties that produce from 140 amps to 200 amps, with supposedly a 250 amp model also available. These can typically be found in larger cars and SUVs.

The following link will outline the available models: http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130...uv_upgrade.htm

If anyone is considering running over 500W of amplifier power, you will certainly need to consider upgrading your alternator.

I will be doing more research in the next few days on which cars you can pull these alternators from at a junkyard for cheap. If anyone has any particular range of models off the top of your head, please list them.

Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that
is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the
ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter,
but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC.
Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).)
 

Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT
IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK
wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you
connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row,
far right).)

Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In
my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think
that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy
that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the
headlight switch that should work. I know that on my
dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at
MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I
adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims
steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver
looking thing that has a point at one end, and an
alligator clip that you hook up to ground.

Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire
for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire
that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter
light.

Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground.

Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used.

Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE
wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is
your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button
on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric
(KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically
changes the DIC display from one to the other when the
E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that
is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do
not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected.

Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to
the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter
light.
 

The BLACK connector is C2.

Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire
coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This
is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the
info for your gauges button.

Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN
wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In
my car it is wire number D15.

Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in
the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my
car it is wire number D13.
 

Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is
not used in the 91 model.

Driver Info System was not available 92+.

You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put
one in your car, then it will go where the storage
cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for
the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it
will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out
of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket
as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the
control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90
cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD
control panel was mounted above the headlight switch
(below the dash pad).
91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD.
Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the
pocket.

Is your headlight switch up high next to the
speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air
vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket.
My car headlight switch is located next to the vent,
with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L
models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the
foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch
next to the DIC.

I need to know how exactly to install these things. Do you put the thing so it's straddling the top of the knuckle, or some other way??

The cat is my parents', his name is Chester.

tools needed

• torque wrench capable of 24ft lbs
  
  • fuel line disconnect tool avilable at most autoparts stores.
    
  • 
    

  

  • 10 mm socket for 3/8 and 1/4 drive ratchet
    
    • 3/8 swivel
      
    • 
      
    • 1/4 ratchet
      
    • 
      
    • 3/8 ratchet
      
    • 
      
    • 6 inch extension for 3/8 and 1/4 inch ratchets
      
    • 
      
    • flat head screwdriver
      
    • 
      
    • pliers
      
    • 
      
    • rags

     

    First disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then remove the air cleaner box and the decorative engine cover. Remove the strut support bar. take out the rear spark plug wires.

    Drain the Radiator in to an appropriate container!!!!!!!

    remove all electrical connectors, throttle cables, fuel lines and unbolt the egr. remove the 7 bolts on the intake plennum and the hose below the intake the upper plenum should then come off.

    

    next remove all the electrical connections and vacum lines you can see the wireing harness will be able to be removed if done properly.

    

     

    it should look like this when done. Then remove the 12 bolts that hold on the lower intake

     

    

     

    Now lift the lower intake off and clean all the maiting surfaces . It is also a good time to clean out your intake take a few cans of carb cleaner or brake and parts cleaner and a small wire brush and clean it all up it will help air flow. If you want to get crazy now would be a good time to port and polish your intake.

     

    here is what it should look like.

    

     

    Now simply reverse the procedure to reinstall. you should retorque the intake bolts to 24 foot lbs. Then follow the standard bleeding procedure for refilling your radiator. If done right this is an aprox 3-5 hour job I did mine in less than 3 hours.

Assuming this thread will be referred to most for adding 4T65 to 4T60 harnesses so the main focus will be regarding those 2 plugs but I'm going to get into a GM matrix style plug like C100 another day since a lot of those get re-pinned too.

First, GM PCM pins are common across a number of different plugs, we can see in this image a 3800 PCM plug, one from a '90's Vortec truck, and a 4XXX series tranny plug. I said 4XXX because the 4LXX rear wheel drive plugs are the same and would make a suitable donor for your 4T65.

So in theory we can salvage a Tranny plug and wires all the way back to the PCM (keeping the pins intact) from a number of different vehicles and shorten / lengthen the wires as needed but still have the pins pop right into our PCM. 

PCM PINS:

So a typical PCM connector is going to have a dress cover along the back, it's held in by 6 barbs. On some early ones the dress cover will be the same but they will be barbed toward the inside. Those are easy to spot because they actually straddle the plug and hook along the outside.

The majority of these plugs are a metal body but there are some plastic bodies out there that I've seen.

I carefully grab the 4 clip portions with a pair of wire pliers and influence them toward the inside to release the barb while I pry it out.

These are fragile and if there's oxidization in the hole it's worth it to use a pick to clear it out a little or those barbed pieces will crack right off in there.

Then we have the 2 inside barbs, easy enough to release with my favorite little pick tool and the dress cover will fall right off.

So without the dress cover in place we can see the number that corresponds to each pin. A few seconds is all it takes to color with a sharpie marker and wipe a finger across the top and they can be read more easily.

The colored covers over the pins are TPAs, the ones on this plug are known as either "Clear" or "Gray" depending on where the schematic comes from.

The TPA has a little white barb and I use my little pick tool to push them in one at a time to slide it off and expose the pins. In this 3rd pic you can see how each pin is held forward by a little white finger of plastic.

That pin will slide right out of the plug without the TPA but if you're trying to salvage both ends of the wire you need to use a fancy release tool like my trusty little pick here to lift the finger while I rock and push the pin out the back of the plug.

Don't get too rough with these, those little fingers will break if you try hard enough. Once the pin is recessed back just an 1/8" or so it'll come out easy by pulling the wire.

Inserting pins can be a bit different, if there wasn't a pin in that hole already I just use something like my little pick to puncture the rubber membrane that's got the hole sealed before pushing the new pin in.

If the TPA DOES NOT SLIDE RIGHT ON WHEN IT GETS RE-INSTALLED don't force it, make sure everything looks good and just put a little pressure on it while you drag a pick down the little fingers. Once you find the one that's not seated all the way the TPA will slide right on.

Transmission Plug Pins:

Tranny plugs are fundamentally the same, the wires can go in or out through the front or back but it's easier to insert them from the back of the plug.

Before I take a Tranny plug apart I like to mark what direction the wires go for when the dress cover goes back on.

My little pick tool comes out again and the dress cover comes right off.

In these 2 pictures I'm showing that there's letters embossed in the rubber seal above or below each pin. Have to wipe them off to actually see it and again if the plug we're going to use doesn't have a hole in this seal a tool like my pick will make one.

Tranny plugs have a TPA of sorts, my little pick goes in and with a "pop" it comes right off so I can see the pins and the retaining fingers that hold them.

As with the PCM plug these pins will push right out right now but if I'm trying to keep the wire intact or operating on a harness it's attached to I'll use a safety pin or very small pick to release it and pull out out the back. It needs to be tilted in it's hole just a tad to be free from the molding of the inside of the plug before it will pull out nicely. I'm using my little pick for that in this picture because my thumb nail is too clumsy to get in there and influence it.

.

Remember when you do a re-pin for a tranny and the schematics seem intimidating that all we care about is this part circled in the diagram for each pin. (DO NOT USE THAT DIAGRAM IT MAY NOT BE FOR YOUR APPLICATION).

For instance as long as we know that pin 28 on C1 of the PCM needs to go to pin D of the transmission plug we're good. It's nice to get that Tan/Black wire back in there rather than a random color so you can diagnose it more easily too.

This sample print is just one of 2 or 3 for a transmission, one of the prints will have a small key printed on it that tells which color PCM plug is C1 and which is C2 on whatever PCM we're on.

Adding a 4T65 is going to require a connection to ignition power, you can solder onto the old power wire off the 4T60, also there may be a low reference that shares a wire from the PCM with other sensors, when that happens just bare a little spot on the wire and solder it to the existing wire in that location on the PCM. Looking at my sample diagram this particular PCM has that low reference on plug C1, pin 56.

Hope somebody finds this useful, party on!

and so therefore (so far as I know)

1. Suitably support the frame. Loosen the left side frame bolts.
2. Remove the right side frame bolts. Lower the car/frame for access
3. Loosely install all the engine mount nuts, and then tighten.
4. Remove the Right (rear) exhaust manifold.

are worded as closely as possible as I can (presently) guess. And the numbering (above) obviously isn't right.

There is some debate about "4. Remove the Right (rear) exhaust manifold"

as that may have been left out of (some earlier/later) FSM's? I can't say with certainty if it's required tho I've a feeling it is.

But all-in-all, 2, 3, and 4 are suggestive of the fact that other/similar "How To" may have failed to (explicitly in writing) suggest that there may be a definite methodology to rocking/rolling the engine back off and/or into place involving either:

an engine fixture support

-OR-

a hoist, take yer pick.

The REST of the How To is (probably at least 98%) accurate as it stands. The whole thing would benefit from somebody who's done it before carefully reading and "advising of any mistakes" and/or Myself actually DOING it and                                        " ditto"

... Then the "HOW TO" could quickly/easily *achieve results* provided some images were added. 

NOTE: There is also a service bulletin about gasket sealant.

Oil Pan Replacement

Removal Procedure

   â€¢  J 28467-90A Engine Support Adapters

   â€¢  J 28467-B Universal Engine Support Fixture

Warning! The ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise … also disconnect the negative battery cable.

Caution!  Remove the oil level sensor, located in the oil pan, before the oil pan is removed. The sensor may be damaged if the oil pan is removed first.

1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
2. Remove FI sight shield & throttle body air inlet duct. A rag covering the opening is perhaps a good idea.
3. Remove the drive belt from the AC compressor.
4. Remove the dog-bone (topside) engine mount struts from the engine.
5. Remove the right front tire.
6. Remove the right engine splash shield.
7. Remove the torque converter cover.
8. Drain the engine oil.
9. Remove the oil filter.
10. Disconnect the oil level sensor wiring harness connector. 
11. Remove the oil level sensor.
12. Remove the Right engine lift hook.
13. Remove the exhaust crossover bolts at the Right (rear) exhaust manifold.
14. Remove EGR tube & PNP switch from the manifold.
15. Remove the three-way catalytic converter pipe from the right (rear) exhaust manifold. Refer to Catylitic Converter Replacement.
16. Remove the Right (rear) exhaust manifold. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Replacement
17. Lower the vehicle.
18. Hoist engine/Install engine support fixture.
19. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
20. Remove the AC compressor bolts. Place the compressor aside for access.
21. Disconnect the power steering cooler brackets from the frame.
22. Remove the front & rear engine mount bracket bolts from the engine.
23. Remove the engine mount nuts.
24. Suitably support the frame. Loosen the left side frame bolts.
25. Remove the right side frame bolts. Discard the bolts. FINALLY, lower the car/frame for access
26. Remove the engine mount and the engine mount bracket.
27. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts.
28. Lower the oil pan.
29. Remove the oil pan.
30. Remove the oil pan gasket.
31. Clean the parts! The oil pan bolts, flanges, rail, front cover, rear main bearing cap, and threaded holes.
    
     
     

Installation Procedure

Caution!  Install the oil level sensor, located in the oil pan, after the oil pan is installed. The sensor may be damaged if the oil level sensor is installed first.

Caution!  Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Important  Do not over tighten bolts or damage to the oil pan may occur, resulting in an oil leak.

Tighten the oil pan bolts to 14 N·m (125 lb in).

Tighten the oil level sensor to 20 N·m (15 lb ft) 

1. Install the oil pan gasket. 
2. Install the oil pan.
3. Apply one drop of thread lock compound GM P/N 12345382 or equivalent to the cleaned oil pan bolt threads.
4. Install the oil pan bolts.
5. Place the engine mount bracket in the proper position.
6. Install new right side frame bolts. Make sure the frame is suitably supported. Install new left side frame bolts. Lower the vehicle.
7. Lower the engine, using the engine support fixture.
8. Remove the universal engine support fixture.
9. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
10. Install the engine mount bracket bolts to the engine.
11. Loosely install all the engine mount nuts, and then tighten.
12. Install the AC compressor bolts.
13. Connect the power steering cooler brackets to the frame. 
14. Install the oil level sensor.
15. Connect the oil level sensor wiring harness connector. 
16. Install the new oil filter. Refer
17. Install the oil pan drain plug.
18. Install the torque converter cover.
19. Install the right engine splash shield.
20. Install the exhaust manifold.
21. Install the PNP switch.
22. Install EGR tube and bolt to 21 lb ft.
23. Install exhaust crossover bolts.
24. Install the right engine lift hook. Tighten to 30 N.m or 22 lb ft
25. Install the three-way catalytic converter pipe to the exhaust manifold.
26. Install the right front tire and wheel.
27. Lower the vehicle.
28. Install the dog-bone engine mount struts to the engine.
29. Replace the FI sight shield & throttle body air inlet duct.
30. Connect the battery ground (negative) cable.
31. Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
32. Inspect for the proper fluid levels.
33. Inspect for leaks.
34. Measure the wheel alignment. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in Wheel Alignment.

Overview: Owners may wish to delete the rear oxygen sensor in order to install a wideband in the factory bung location.  In 2001+ cars, this causes a new cat diagnostic to run repeatedly, skewing fuel trims and negatively impacting fuel economy.

Cause: Beginning in MY 2001 (and possibly some prior MY California emissions cars), GM added a cat diagnostic test in order to determine the efficiency and operation of both the catalyst and rear O2 sensor.  This test works by richening the fuel trims to an extreme degree in order to saturate the catalyst, then waiting for the O2 to respond appropriately.  It will run this test over and over during cruise until it is satisfied.  Without a rear O2, the test never passes and fuel economy suffers.  LTFT readings will also skew rich (high double digit LTFTs), causing tuning difficulties. O2 Simulators do not correct the issue because the PCM is expecting a specific response from the amount of fuel being dumped.

Fix: Utilizing Tiny Tuner, this diagnostic can be disabled.  As of April 2017, HPTuners still does not offer this ability.  By and large, this patch is available for most 2011-2014 L36, L67, L32, L82, and LA1 OSIDs, but some may be missing.  To disable the test, open your .bin in Tiny Tuner and navigate to the following:

Diagnostics > Main > CAT Diagnostic Enable Coolant Temp

Stock is 20. 

Change to 285 (positive, not negative like the screenshot).

Navigate to Diagnostics > Main > CAT Diagnostic Tests per Trip

Stock is 18.

Change to 0.

This should disable the O2 diagnostic test going forward.

^{Errata: The original version of this document (and the screenshots) suggest changing the enable temp to -285.  This value is too low and would allow the diagnostic to run anyway. The diagnostic would run every time the car is driven until interrupted. After interrupted, the test would be suspended.  Setting it to a high value that the car would never see prevents it from running at all.}

As my own personal side note, I wouldn't start this without getting a tub of ATP Transmission Assembly Lube (or equivalent).  Makes putting everything back together so much easier (especially when you need to have bearings lined up a certain way).

Everything that follows is from his original post.

A few threads have had questions pertaining to the proper order of install for the associated parts with the differential. These steps apply to 98+ 4T60E/4T65E transmissions though 97 and earlier models are the same with the exception of the snap ring on the output shaft where it goes into the diff is a different style. These are assembly pics starting with the parts removed showing the order things go together and in which direction though I did add a pic of where to use a chisel in the center of the diff for removal. Enjoy!

Pic#1 - Here is a pic for disassembly reference for 98+ models. You will need to use a wedge shaped chisel and a hammer to crack it lose. This is required to unseat the snapring on the end to allow the diff to pull/slide off of the output shaft.

Pic#2 - This is a pic of the internal ring gear for the final drive/differential and the teeth MUST be in excellent condition!!! NO chips or nicks allowed here as damage to a new diff will occur!

Pic#3 - IMPORTANT STEP!!! DO NOT SKIP!!! You MUST put some type of assembly lube on the bearing to hold it to the park gear. If the bearing falls out of place OR you didn't take this gear out and don't know the bearing fell and try to bolt the diff housing back down it can BREAK because it is sticking out too far and the weak aluminum ears for the bolt holes on the housing will snap off! Make sure you put the bearing on the gear in the correct direction, larger-outer side surface goes towards park gear, smaller-inner race goes against internal ring gear-trans side!

Pic#4 - Proper direction for park gear to be installed into trans

Pic#5 - View of installed park gear

Pic#6 - Proper install direction for final drive sun gear. Recessed end goes TOWARDS transmission against park gear!

Pic#7 - View of installed sun gear

Pic#8 - Correct DRIVERS side output shaft install

Pic#9 - Correct PASSENGER side output shaft install

Pic#10 - Diff installed into transmission. Sometimes this can take a little wiggling and spinning to get it seating all the way as the gears all need to line up properly for it to fall into place. Notice the order on the housing end of the diff.... Shim first, then bearing with the ID of the bearing towards the differential

Pic#11 - Use a hammer to give the output shaft a good sharp tap to seat it into the diff (98+ models only!) If you are doing this IN the car then you will need to hold the drivers side CV tightly into the trans and tap the diff into the shaft while keeping the gears lined up. This is sorta hard to explain without pics or without you laying under the car to understand what I am referring to and I dont have pics of that in this thread.

Pic#12 - View of properly seated output shaft in the differential. Notice the snap ring is visible sticking roughly half way out of the gear.

At this point you are ready to put the diff cover/ housing back on the tail end of the transmission and if doing this in the car you are ready to reassemble all other parts on the outside of the trans. I hope these pics and info help out! If anyone has any questions or want me to add more to this please let me know

Dave

Quick History & Background

Auto-dimming mirrors are nothing new by any means. The electrochromic technology used to make today's mirrors has been around since the '40s, and has been in use in automotive mirrors since the '80s. The concept of an auto-dimming mirror was first introduced by the Zeeland, Michigan based electro-optical products manufacturer Gentex Corporation. They created the world's first electromechanical mirror in 1982, which found its way into higher end American luxury cars as an option in 1983. It used sensors to detect glare from behind. The sensors were connected to a small motor that would move the angle of the mirror to adjust accordingly. In other words, it basically acted as an automatic version of the flip tab on standard mirrors. These mirrors would be available through '91.

In the meantime, a father and son team of chemists convinced Gentex that they knew how to apply electrochromic technology (a gel that darkens when electrically charged/clears with no charge) to their mirrors. After investing a lot of money for R&D, they found a way to sandwich a thin layer of the gel between 2 pieces of glass, and have it react to an electrical charge initiated by sensors mounted on the front and rear of the mirror when they detected glare. The first electrochromic self-dimming mirror was introduced in '87, and was made available in the '88 Lincoln Continental, and 8 GM cars in '89. They became more commonplace in the early '90s.

It is at this point that Holland, Michigan based Donnelly Corporation, another major automotive mirror manufacturer, came into play. Gentex' auto-dimming mirrors were a huge success, gaining more and more car manufacturer contracts. Donnelly was trying desperately to take back some of the market share by producing mirrors with very similar technology. In may of '90, Gentex sued Donnelly over patent violations. Through a mess of suits and counter suits over the next few years, as well as out of court settlements, things finally cooled down between the companies. In the meantime, Gentex continued to expand upon what they started with their mirrors. In '93, they introduced the first self-dimming mirrors with a compass that showed the direction you were headed in a little digital display within the mirror itself. These mirrors would become available on '94 model year luxury cars. From '97 - '98, cars would start receiving self dimming outside mirrors, inside mirrors that displayed compass as well as outside temperature, and compass mirrors with LED map lights, which were ONLY available as an option on the Intrigue GLS in '98. The GLS also had this same mirror available in an OnStar equipped version.

Fast forwarding to today, Gentex has grown immensely, and is regarded as the leading company in auto-dimming mirrors with distribution in several countries, including Germany and Japan. They have expanded their contracts to almost all car manufacturers around the world, and self-dimming mirrors are no longer something reserved for higher end luxury cars. They can be found in all sorts of makes and models in many variations. The features have also increased dramatically, including versions with HomeLink, back-up camera and navigation. Meanwhile, Donnelly lost a lot of ground in the war for market share since 2000, and is virtually non-existent in the manufacturer's contract department.

Gentex vs. Donnelly Pros & Cons

Being the 2 major producers of auto-dimming mirrors, these two have been dueling each other for a couple decades now. Virtually every feature Gentex came out with, Donnelly would copy. However, the 2 companies took a very different approach as far as aesthetics. Donnellys had more of an "egg shape" to them, especially if they had temp and compass, because they put the display for those in the base of the mirror as opposed to in the mirrors themselves like Gentex does. The front of a Gentex mirror looks more like traditional mirrors, but with a bit of an extension at the middle of the bottom for the buttons. Personally, I prefer the way Gentex' look a lot more, but that's subjective. One plus for Donnelly mirrors is that they are much more commonly available with map lights. Since most of the vehicles that Gentex' originated in were luxury, or well equipped, they usually already had some kind of fancy overhead console or dome light, so they scarcely received map lights in the mirrors.

Fully optioned Donnelly mirror.

However, this and all other advantages for Donnelly mirrors are a moot point because of one monumental problem they're prone to which renders them useless. Donnellys are notorious for breaking and leaking the liquid inside of them, often causing discoloration in the paint when the liquid eventually drips onto the center console. Why is not completely known. However, I mentioned the legal troubles between the 2 companies earlier, and that Donnelly had to change their methods of accomplishing the auto-dimming effect due to patent infringements. My theory is that whatever they did to change the process for auto-dimming, it was an inferior process with poor reliability/durability. On the other hand, I've never really heard of a Gentex mirror failing in any capacity (certainly not by leaking out the gel). It is for this reason that I usually suggest people switch to a Gentex when their Donnelly mirrors finally fail, which they inevitably will.

Mmkay, now for the good stuff you've been waiting for.

Removing and installing auto-dimming mirrors

Removing factory auto-dimming mirrors from the windshield

*DISCLAIMER: The process for removing mirrors with the newer mounting style can put your windshield at risk for cracking or breaking. I am not responsible for any damage. Attempt at your own risk!

This will actually be the hardest part of adding/replacing an auto-dimming mirror. Rather than using the traditional, easy-to-remove single torx screw to tighten the mirror onto the windshield button, newer auto-dimming mirrors have a tensioned spring with tabs in the brackets that, once the tabs clear the windshield button, locks it into place, making removal a serious pain by comparison. To get an idea of what you’re dealing with, here is a mirror off the car with the spring/tabs exposed (tabs circled in blue). It is this spring that has to be pushed in towards the mirror so that the tabs on the spring will clear the mounting button, allowing the bracket to slide up and over it.

You will basically have to insert a small slotted screwdriver into the slot opening at the bottom of the mirror bracket’s base, and gently tap at the screwdriver (preferably with a rubber mallet) till it pushes the tab back far enough to clear the button. The screwdriver is in far enough when it won’t fall back out with little force, but at the same time, not so snug that it takes a lot of force to get it unstuck. Take your time, and check to see if it’s at this point with every few taps. Driving the screwdriver in too far can cause the windshield to crack or break. Here’s an off the car visual to give you an idea of what you’re looking for.

At this point, the mirror bracket should slide out by gently lifting UP on the mirror while wiggling it back and forth.

Again, I have to stress to be extremely careful with the removal of these mirrors. The process itself sounds straightforward and easy enough, but the springs are often stubborn, so you have to be very cautious not to exert enough force to break the windshield.

Tip: If you do not feel comfortable trying to remove the mirror yourself, skip to the wiring so that’s in place, and then take the vehicle to a glass or body shop to pop the mirror off. Most will remove rear view mirrors for $10 - $15, and many will even do it for free! Same with reattaching mirrors that have fallen off!

Well I'm making a writeup on my successful heatercore swap. Was a pain in the ass but I've been more frustrated with other jobs....

Step 1:

Remove center console. If you don't have one, you're lucky. Mainly because it would have been easier working without the shifter on the floor.

Step 2: Remove the carpet stuff under the dash (oh hey look, there's my speaker crossover.. lol)

Step 3: Unscrew and remove duct to floor.

Step 4: Remove floor duct pan.

*note: Try to undo the clips that hold the big mess or wires, you'll be able to pull the parts though easier*

Step 5: Remove heatercore plastic cover.

Note: For the back screws, you will need to use a small wratchet, and deep socket.

Oh snap, coolant!

Step 6: You should have put a rag down to catch coolant, now it's on the carpet.

Pics of heatercore:

Pipes from heatercore going into firewall:

Small drip of coolant from corner:

Pic of pipes coming out of the firewall in the engine bay. (Top one is disconnected in pic)

Step 7: Remove NFG heatercore. Disconnect rubber hoses in firewall, remove the 2 screws from the inside.. it pops right out.

Pics of NEW heatercore. Note: unlike the factory one, this one has the metal tubes connected. I got this from GM dealership, unless they got it from NAPA or something.

Step 8: Install heatercore, installation is reverse of dissassemble.

Note: If you have good coolant, don't bother to drain it. When you disconnect the rubber hoses from the firewall, minimal coolant will come out. Have a couple rags handy and on the floor if you don't want to make a mess.

I had put Stop-leak in prior, which didn't work, so I flushed it well before installing the new heatercore.

Bars stop-leak. Most of this mess never made it to the heatercore, it just sat in the coolant reservoir. If you decide to ever use this crap, make sure you add it to a COLD radiator so it enters the system. Dumping this out it looked like sand in the bottem... YUCK.

This was a fairly easy job on a 3100 engine. I don't think I would recommend you do it yourself on a 3.4DOHC if you are a beginner, cause getting to those rubber hoses on the firewall would be a major PITA.