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If you have any additional info to contribute (that can be verified or that you are absolutely sure of and have checked yourself), please send me a PM here. I'm trying to gather info on the 282 between all the years/car-lines, but even as far as Ws go, I have absolutely no info on the Quad 4 282 and how it was different from the V6 one. If you have pictures of different setups, those would be great too, specifically mounting, slave/clutch fork (or lack thereof) setups, starter locations, flywheel info (I know some cars had smaller diameter ones than ours). I know the page is a mess right now but as I gather definite info I can make more sense of it and organize it.

I have a good number of part numbers laying around that I haven't posted yet, I'll work on getting those up soon.

Thanks

Enjoy!

Thanks for the assistance. 

There is more than one way to do this swap, I am taking what these guys have done and trying a couple of changes.

Background story aside, here is the current parts list - will update this list as necessary:

Some of the model years given are an example and should work for the same model range.

F23 from 00-03 Cavalier or Sunfire with the 2200 SFI - not Ecotec as the bellhousing is different. Look for 8th digit of VIN is a 4.

From same car get the shifter, full clutch pedal assembly, shifter cables, clutch reservoir, clutch cylinder w/ hydraulic line.

EDIT 6/27/2023: 32" long passenger side cv shaft is the best option unless you can manage another option such as mounting a 4T65E output shaft as an intermediate shaft.

For the one really long cv axle, get a "front right" passenger side axle from a Jeep Grand Cherokee 1999-2004 4WD Quadra-Drive w/ Vari-Lok. The Selec-Trac w/o Vari-Lok axle may or may not work, since it's an inch shorter and therefore leaves less room for the axle shop to work with. The axle shaft is super long and can be used as bar stock basically for an axle shop to re-spline into the new shaft you'll need. The thicker end is the end to be re-splined as it has enough material to cut down while retaining heat treat strength. This will be the new outboard end that will go into the "star" or hub end. The narrow end of the shaft has the correct splines to go into the tripod end and will be the new inner. You have to have a slot cut for a retaining ring right at the end of the existing splines and widen the existing narrow slot at the end. I believe you'll need the inner from a J-Body car since I think that's where I got my inner from. The splines need to be 1.05" not 1.1". I had a couple of these inners lying around and I thought I had the GP inner but it may have been a Cav one. But that's it for that end. The overall shaft length needs to be exactly 32". I have measured this myself and have found that measurement also quoted from others who have done this before. The inner tripod is j-body and the outer is your stock w-body hub end. Reassemble with appropriate grease, boots, and clamps and you're done.

Stock passenger side CV Axle from 2nd gen W-Body such as Buick Regal or Grand Prix GT(Not GTP or Regal GS) - this will be the new driver's side axle.

Flywheel - 2 options:

    4th-gen (96-02) Camaro RS or Firebird (3.8 w/ 5-speed) flywheel, shaved down to about 0.81" to 0.84" - or about 0.25" shaved down on the clutch surface. Have them check the balance with your auto flexplate's balance if they can. This option should have a better balance if the engine is N/A.

    Or, and especially if the engine is supercharged, an aluminum flywheel from SPEC. Part # SC94AC. This will run you about $400. 

Clutch - many options:

    SPEC, Exedy, off-brand, they all have pressure plate and clutch disk combos that will work. Some better than others. You can go with a cheap risk, or more expensive sure thing, up to you. Look for a combo for a Fiero 2.8 w/ 4-speed. If you go with SPEC(sure thing) then look for a combo under "Conversions" for Fiero 3800 w/ 4-speed. Part# SC771, SC772, SC773H, etc. Important note: if you go with off-brand or Exedy or whatver, you should verify the depth of the pressure plate fingers vs. HTOB range. Also, too thick of a pressure plate may hit the inside of the bellhousing. That's why a stock Camaro pressure plate won't work. I've tried it. For more detail than I can give, search the Fiero forums for HTOB measurements. This thread is useful - Measuring HTOB to determine need for spacer?.

Longer F-Body flywheel bolts. GM Part#24505092. Make sure they get the 5/16-18 bolts 0.9" length. I got burned on this once when I received 7/16-20 bolts the first time.

Smaller brake booster from around an '02 Monte Carlo. Turbo guys do this often as it's smaller but still effective. I've had this mod for a while.

Here is the car I got my stuff from:

Here is the easiest part, the brake booster swap. I found the easiest way to remove and install these is to use a long bar on the studs to twist it out instead of struggling with the tab in the back.

Since I wanted to include a hand brake, I wanted to keep the shifter to the right a bit instead of centering it. Basically, the same orientation that it originally came with in the Cavalier. But to do that I needed to fab up a new mounting plate. First I used some thin sheet metal to make a template and then welded up the plate from that. I know - my welding sucks, but I'm still learning, getting better.

To mount this, I'm taking advantage of the extra slots for these clip-on stud things and modifying one of them to be longer

Here is where they go, notice longer stud on the lower right - also holding the e-brake bracket.

Next, with the new mounting plate installed - note the narrow nut on the bottom left. Also, you can't see it but sound-dampening rubber foam is underneath the plate.

And with shifter installed - now you can see why that nut had to be narrower. There is also some interference from the plate/cables and the rear seat air duct, but I'll sort that out later.

Next, modifying the brake pedal assembly. Note - be careful with cutting magnesium alloy, not sure how flammable the magnesium shavings could be.

I tried to keep the 2nd bolt hole for where the steering column attaches, but that has to come off too. It's a minor bolt anyway, there are 3 more, 2 of which are the major ones, so it's fine.

Steel part that bolts to the firewall and what needs to be cut off

Here is approximately how they will be installed. Different than how it looks in this pic, I have the clutch pedal mounted a bit lower than this with its bolt studs even horizontally with the bottom right brake bracket stud. I have a better pic of the firewall later on.

I have much more to post, but I'm out of time for now. More to come soon.

i have recently acquired a 2002 Buick Regal. This car was a one owner car and I picked it up in October with 74k miles on it. It has been very well taken care of. I bought this car because of the reliability factor, however I have fallen in love with how it drives! The only issue that I am having is intermittent headlight pulsing. It only happens when the car is decelerating and slowing down under 30mph or so. So far I have replaced the battery, had the alternator tested(tested good ), went and bought another alternator and installed just in case of possible voltage regulator. Also found and cleaned thee grounds under the fuse box, next to the drivers headlight, and the engine ground by the exhaust. I have also ran a big 3 wire upgrade (did this for future sound system) as well as an extra power wire from fuse box to alternator(saw some videos where people said this extra line helped)This seemed to make my headlights a bit brighter, but not affect on the pulsing. All that being said i am still getting the same result. The interior lights will dim for a moment when the car first starts and the the headlights on deceleration. From what I have found there is no headlight relay, only fuses. I have one friend who has suggested new bulbs, however I am not convinced this would fix anything as they are older but still light up well. Any suggestions on where to look next would be greatly appreciated! 

The catalyst for this was Aaron's 218whp dyno run...............3 threads later (all of 4+ pages) and yet I STILL HAVEN'T SEEN THE DAMN CHART

So.

What I would like is for people to post W Body (or relevant...in other words swappable) charts, AND a list of EXACTLY what mods were done to the car at the time.

These charts will be useful (if we get enough) to see what mod combos do what, and how much boost (for the TGP guys) will net how much power etc.

Plus you can pick shiftpoints

In any event:

I WANT TO SEE THE DAMN CHART FOR AARON'S OLD Z34 !!!!!

I assumed I did something wrong but on closer inspection the pulley is way too "shallow".  Did I get a pulley for the wrong engine?  I compared the stock pulley on my 3.4 to my spare engines and they are all deep (like the black one in the picture).

The directions do not mention any spacer or anything.

I didn’t get any down the port holes where the valve steam sits thank god. But I got to use a shop vac because some plastic and wire installation got down in the valves when I was replacing wire connectors.

I kinda thought afterwards I might have dried out the valve train or dry the seals out after using brake cleaner to clean the heads because I noticed there white oxidation on the valve train after the brake cleaner dry. My friend told me to coat them down with oil real good so it wouldn’t further dry anything out and it will be fine. I have to drain the oil out anyway again because some coolant got down in the engine when removing the intake. So all the oil will drain out of it by time I drain the oil out.
 

I poured half a quart of oil over the valley down into the camshaft, on the rocker arms and pushrods in the valve train. Is everything ok? It’s all lubricated and nothing looks dry anymore. 

I am seeing very light surface rust on one of the rockers now. Is this something to worry about now? It’s only at 500 miles. I changed the break in oil at 489 miles. I haven’t driven this car since last October because my intake manifold cracked so I had to remove the intake to replace it and replace the gasket again. I don’t want the brake cleaner to further cause problems to my engine drying out seals ect now. I thought coating the valley making the oil run down to the camshaft and coating valve train would be ok.

Keep in mind I had the intake off since last year but I placed the intake manifold back over it so it wouldn’t be exposed. Yesterday I cut off the intake gasket. So now I just have to replace the intake gasket. I couldn’t do it all these month’s because of the weather. Now it’s getting nice out so I can fix it and work on it.

The Hydra-Matic division of GM had been building FWD transmissions since 1966, first for the Oldsmobile Toronado. It was a TH-425...kind of a TH-400 with the tail end bent sideways. It sat behind a HC Olds 425CID with 385HP and 480lb/ft of torque. Twenty-some years later they couldn't build one to even handle 210hp? Not only that... but over the entire production of this engine to 1997, HP only increased by 5? So, Hydra-Matic couldn't improve on their best FWD transmission to accept any more than 5 additional HP over another 6 years? 1994 saw the introduction of the supercharged 3800, capable of 225hp in front of a 4T60E HD. 1996 saw the introduction of the Series II Supercharged 3800 with 240hp. If the DOHC 3.4 was detuned so much, it certainly should have been unreigned by then!

Still... after all these years, and all the potential of all that natural aspiration, there are so few mods? Swap it out or add turbo is about all I read.

So, for the shadetree mechanic, what's there to do?

-modified airbox

-bigger TB

-TB coolant bypass

-exhaust

- engine mount wishbone

Very depressed that an engine with such potential gets tosse aside. Very sad.

Scotty

Also, the 96+ doesn't have this vacuum setup on the plenum. How is it supposed to be hooked up?  It's broken, anyway.  Anyone have a 96-97 vacuum diagram?  I might have one somewhere, but I'm not sure.

And as the title says I'm only getting about 16mpg. And while it's running and shortly after shutting it off there is a strong odor of unburnt gas fumes. Could this be related to my EGR or EVAP system? My live stream data says the EGR solenoids apparently never cycle. Also I'm getting a stumbling with during acceleration that I'm assuming could the be coil packs altho I still need to check the vacuum system. Any thoughts how to fix?

While replacing the lower intake manifold gaskets, I broke the extremely bridle vacuum line connector for the EVAP canister purge valve which attaches at the throttle body.  It comes off the throttle body as a 3/8 line and is immediately reduced to 1/4" or so and makes a hard 90° bend before attaching to a plastic line.  Said plastic line then goes over top of the supercharger and attaches to the canister solenoid on the back side of the supercharger. In the diagram below, It is the line which connects item 9 (EVAP canister purge valve) to the throttle body.  Does anyone know where to get one of these lines?  I can't seem to find one anywhere...Thanks.

Things I've done was check oil and trans fluid, both were good. Also cleaned up the throttle body half-hassardly, though I might give it another cleanse just to be sure. Any ideas on what might be going on?