It does not need a timing belt, water pump, or any intake manifold work as this was all done 5 years and 10,000 miles ago and no issues here. 

I did a body swap on my STE restoration - so it ended up with the 1991 drivetrain but I used all the 1992 electrics (the body harness and underhood (non engine) harness was different from 1991 to 1992, but the engine wiring was the same, so it worked out well.

One of the cutlasses Ive found is a 1988 (2.8 auto).  I know obviously the engine harness would be completely different from a quad 4 to a 2.8, but does anyone know how different the "other harnesses" are from 88-90?  like the underhood fuse stuff, interior stuff (assuming same options of course), etc?  

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872027215

btw.. i want to talk to you about your 5spd for sale , maybe wanna play the #'s game in cash ??

Thanks!

Would like to get as much out as possible without lifting or getting under the car. Thanks.

Unfortunately Gm has made the decision to discontinue the cam belt tensioner for the 3.4 dohc engine.

What's the feasibility of swapping out the 3.4 with the 3.8sc?

Background

Not sure how well known this is, or if this is a whole W-Body issue or something unique to the Gran Prix's, but this is what I've learned in my research. The factory seam sealer used on this generation was petroleum based, standard at the time, but over the years the petro chemicals leach out of the substrate, which creates micro-fractures in the sealer. These micro-fractures, through capillary action, soak up salt water and hold it tight up against body metal, thus accelerating body-rust in the exact locations the OEM seam sealer was meant to protect.

Additionally, there's a void-pocket between the inner and outer sides of the strut towers themselves. Over time, condensation collects in those void pockets due to heating-cooling cycles and the resultant moisture has nowhere to go and thus sits in there and rots out the rear strut towers from the top-side down, while the seam sealer defect eats them from the bottom-side up.

My Plan (Please Suggest Corrections)

• Drop the wheels and struts entirely.
• Power wash the wheel wells
• Wire wheel/brush the factory seam sealer away entirely
  • Horizontal shelf where strut tower is spot-welded to the frame
  • Vertical seams
  • Circular seam where the strut mounting studs poke through.
• Spray wheel well side with Corroseal
• Use a 360 degree spray head to flood strut tower voids with Corroseal
• Allow 48hrs for Corrosel to fully react
• Spray Eastwood 2K Epoxy Primer.
  • Apply from the wheel wells up
  • Apply into the strut tower void from the trunk-side, down
  • Wait 24-48hrs for primer to cure
• Apply 3M 08367 Urethane Seam Sealer to the same places in the strut tower that we'd removed the factory seam sealer from.
• Inject 3M 08852 Cavity Wax Plus into the strut tower void cavities accessible from the trunk side w/360 degree spray head
• Install a GM Buick "F-Bar", part 19417890, across the rear strut towers.
  • Bead weld the "cups" to the "bar" for complete rigidity
  • Unload the suspension by raising the rear of the car before installing the strut bar, so that it will be under tension immediately.

That's my plan, it's entirely speculative based on a whole lot of research, so please let me know if you tink I'm going down a bad road, or if there's any avenues for improvement.

From my personal research, this aside from catastrophic loss, this generation of Grand Prix's were more than likely to be scrapped out from this design flaw than anything else, so staving this off should help preserve my longevity, but please let me know what you think!

Sincere Regards,

AJM

Of note - the quad 4 manual cutlas was the fastest of all to 60, but had a lower trap speed than the TGP and Z34.  Clearly the Quad 4/manual was a good choice for this car performance wise - and their commentary on handling was that it was excellent (the most praise of the four)

The TGP had the quickest 1/4 mile time, but not trap speed. The video showed very little wheelspin which clearly aided it off the line. 

The Z34 5-speed had a ton of wheelspin and tire smoke which seems to have limited its 0-60, but its trap speed is by far the highest. Clearly without the wheelspin this would be the “fastest” w-body and demonstrates the best power to weight. 
 

The 90 STE turbo was painfully slow compared to the rest, and especially the TGP. Given that its the same powertrain and the coupes and sedans are negligibly different weight-wise, this was either on a very hot day, or they just didnt have a very fast example (maybe a “friday car”)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=85484&cc=1056428&pt=10721&jsn=667&_nck=S9TpZc1fXxr7Xa7yUkP8%2BeVHrLluc6vJvrD2O9wgZs5RffpngaQG8wezeYP9fpHdOn5lato7smAZZ6tajgo%2ByAcvGnlbm7gWQ1k3lUBRwWeEUtTccaRuCow%2FiASFJvfjkuykQzPMOtbz3c9d3dg2Jwa2GXon2nPW456wgqIX0aMxZ6Nc%2B76i78Di5iBUsi33RWIvDIg08cGCapSM%2FcfHfndGUOG3yYrbav%2FLKA2juWh%2FAYpE3fgdKRVTmgyRZ5Lr3LTjS8N8aR7BaphHG3pne8D1vTbj5ru9dMoXwBdelgZ7crUL5rYxZZQYphmOI%2BTe&_nck=S9TpZc1fXxr7Xa7yUkP8%2BeVHrLluc6vJvrD2O9wgZs5RffpngaQG8wezeYP9fpHdOn5lato7smAZZ6tajgo%2ByAcvGnlbm7gWQ1k3lUBRwWeEUtTccaRuCow%2FiASFJvfjkuykQzPMOtbz3c9d3dg2Jwa2GXon2nPW456wgqIX0aMxZ6Nc%2B76i78Di5iBUsi33RWIvDIg08cGCapSM%2FcfHfndGUOG3yYrbav%2FLKA2juWh%2FAYpE3fgdKRVTmgyRZ5Lr3LTjS8N8aR7BaphHG3pne8D1vTbj5ru9dMoXwBdelgZ7crUL5rYxZZQYphmOI%2BTe

Does anybody know for sure what A/C lines will fit?

Someone is giving me their 1995 Regal GS that's been sitting for a few years after her husband passed. She's older so hard to know if her memory of timing is right. The battery is dead and the tires look deflated. It's only got ~100,000 miles on it.

I'm planning on getting it towed straight to the mechanic, but also wondering if I can just replace the battery, put some air in the tire, and drive it home first or would that just cause more problems?

I don't have indoor marking so the car will have to stay outside and endure the winter

Will be honest I have not replaced a master cylinder since the early 80's. I am know I will need to bench bleed the master.

I have questions I will bullet point to make it easy.

1) What is the best method to try to save the OEM master reservoir? Would prefer to keep the car as OEM look as possible.

2) Directions to bleeding the entire system. I have done so with 70's cars I am just unsure about cars of this vintage with ABS.

3) Anything I have over looked please school me.

Details of which wheel to do in order would be great. Any hints of best dia of brake hose to obtain to put in a jar fluid is a huge plus. 

This will be part of their christmas me making the Olds safe to drive again. What else can you get parents with everything? Manual labor alway works. 

Thanks in advance for any all advice.

Brock9334z

- I took off the front console panel with the cigarette cable disconnected

- I had to adjust the steering wheel tilt to take out the front console panel out. I know the multi-function switch is already wonky because I am not getting brake lights unless I pull the switch slightly back. Could adjust the wheel tilt cause the multi-function switch to become worst?

- I took off the center console, with the two small light bulbs unclipped and shift solenoid switch disconnected

- I took out the radio (and maybe because I pulled too hard) found the power copper wiring fraying out. I pushed the radio back in with the wires exposed and maybe it touched some back metal plate and shorted?

Beyond that, I don't understand how this process has caused these electronic issues.

Even before it would take a few seconds before the shifter button would depress but it was consistent. 

The car prevsiously sat for a few years on a slopped garage. I had issues with shifting it then as well but after giving it a go for awhile I was finally able to, even with a dead battery at the time. I haven't driven for a month with car parked on slope again so not sure if there is a common reason here. 

Mechanic has replaced transmission oil when I pulled the car from the 3 years of  sitting. 

Thanks. 

http://www.milzymotorsports.com

https://www.zzperformance.com

http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

http://wot-tech.com/shop/3-4-dohc/cat_8.html

http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/GMV6engineskits.html

http://mrzperformance.vstore.ca/index.php

Most people just know of Milzy Motorsports so I figured this list needed to be made to help everyone find parts. Ive never heard about most of these websites from people and have just had to find them on my own.

There are parts out there!

https://www.junkyardlife.com/2015/11/luminac-repurposed-1958-cadillac-fins.html

However... I don't think I need 2 of these damn things. So help me decide which stays and which goes. 

Red 1990 TGP:

Pros:

• Red/Tan leather/Sunroof/CD player
• 151,000 Miles  
• Has the engine from my old wrecked TGP in it so approximately 40-50,000 fewer miles than the chassis, Runs great.
• recently rebuilt transmission
• Presently Running and driving
• Vacuum Brake converted
• Have brand new Turbo/Pontiac emblems in a box for it
• Body is pretty clean rust wise, no immediate concerns
• Rear subframe converted to 2g lat links
• 96' Front and rear brakes

Cons:

• Needs a paint job
• Been in a few accidents, repaired... not the best. Could really use an entire Driver side B pillar replacement (have most of those parts) but is passable enough as is.
• Only original body panels are the pass door and fender. literally every other part has been replaced for one reason or another

Black 1990 TGP:

Pros:

• Black/Gray cloth/Tape deck
• I think 110,000 or someplace about there miles
• body is straight as an arrow 
• Used to be owned by @LukeZ34so it has forum history
• 94' rear brakes
• Have a supposedly good engine on a stand for it.

Cons: 

• Also could use a paint job, not as bad but not good either
• Been off the road since about 2011, presently stored indoors
• Needs an engine - It ran but had very minimal oil pressure.
• Will need the fuel system totally flushed before it gets running.
• Still has PowerMaster brakes - worked last time it ran but it needs to go regardless.

Obviously the black car is the better base on paper. But my irrational part loves how they look in red. Whats you guys take?

Is this possible to do? I`m studying the diagrams trying to answer my own question but coming up short.