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94 olds vert reacted to a post in a topic:
1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes
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rcLord510 started following 1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes
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1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes
rcLord510 replied to 94 olds vert's topic in General
Never seen that olds logo on the b pillar like that, and on the SL too -
94 olds vert reacted to a post in a topic:
1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes
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pwmin reacted to a post in a topic:
1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes
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pwmin reacted to a post in a topic:
1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes
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1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes
Black92GS replied to 94 olds vert's topic in General
Gotta love that quality 80s GM fit and finish! And that Regal is very oddly equipped. Bench seat, manual locks and windows, no rear reading lights.....but it has alloy wheels. Then there is this: That cluster must be from a pre-production vehicle, as the tach was never red like that on any of the production ones. My old 88 Regal was a November 87 build, and the tach was green like the rest of the cluster. -
Black92GS reacted to a post in a topic:
1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes
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- Last week
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1994 cutlass convertible windows
94 olds vert replied to miltonv81's topic in Cutlass Supreme Convertible
I had a similar problem on a 2010 GMC sierra. The drivers side door window would only operate when the door was open. I dug into the wiring and found a wire that was nearly broken. I would check wiring and grounds. -
miltonv81 started following 1994 cutlass convertible windows
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Here's me issue. Alternator died and the windows and top quit working along with all the guages. Replaced alternator, guages are back working but the windows now when you turn the key on they will work sometimes and sometimes not in conjunction with the top. Open the door when they are working all is fine till you close the door past the second detent then they quit working. Initially thought it was the circuit breaker and that is assuming the same breaker controls the windows and top. Now thinking the connector for the door to body but I wouldn't think the the wiring for the top would go through that connector, no sure. any body ever experience this?
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I don't believe those have the manual release button. IIRC, there is a mechanical over-ride with the key. In the event of a failure, you turn the key to the "Off" position, which allows you to shift into neutral, then start the car. The 2nd gens respond in a similar manner, however I believe the console shift interlock on those is fully electric, hence the need for the emergency release button.
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carterluke started following '92 Chevy Lumina 3.1 running rough, under accelerating, slippage? , Sitting 1995 Regal GS and Monte Carlo Z34 5-speed swap HOW-TO
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that's likely what's causing your issues. that solenoid can fail, happened on my 03 GTP. Does it have a neutral release? If it does try pushing it down and see if it will come out of park. that solenoid has a little plastic disc on it that comes out, and pulls a rod that releases the interlock, when you push the emergency park release, its just manually releasing it. not a super bad part to replace if you end up having to, just not sure about finding one.
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Now I can't even bring it out of park. I don't think it's related to the brake/turn signal switch, since I can get the brake lights to work if I pull the signal lever slightly back. But doing that doesn't help me release the shifter out of park. Seems like someone else mentioned a Shift Interlock Solenoid. Thoughts? That seems like a simpler part and something I can do quickly in comparison to the turn signal switch that I'm just living with so far.
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No shift release and rocking doesn't help.
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I do have issues with the parking lights where only the centre window one comes on. But never stopped me from getting out of park by waiting a few seconds. The job to fix the wheel switch seems like a bigger job? I'll try to rock or look to see if theres shift release.
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I can't remember but do 1st gen cars have the shift lock release like 2nd gen cars do? If so you could try that. If not that solenoid might actually be bad. If I recall something about the brake light switch can cause the car to remain in park. I had that issues on my CSC. If the car was parked on an incline I would try rocking the car back and forth a bit then try to get it out of park.
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I have a 95 Regal GS that isnt shifting from parking. The button won't depress despite holding it down and pushing in the brakes. Even before it would take a few seconds before the shifter button would depress but it was consistent. The car prevsiously sat for a few years on a slopped garage. I had issues with shifting it then as well but after giving it a go for awhile I was finally able to, even with a dead battery at the time. I haven't driven for a month with car parked on slope again so not sure if there is a common reason here. Mechanic has replaced transmission oil when I pulled the car from the 3 years of sitting. Thanks.
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I can with 100% positivity state that Vegeta is only shady if he is standing under something that blocks the sun from hitting him.
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I want to install drive chain sprocket 33-37 and torque converter with 2350 stall the final drive will remain 3.33 Has anyone built a config like this for a 4T60? how it worked? p.s. turbocharger not stock
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3.5l LZ4 with an F23 in a FWD race car. Port work, WOT-Tech VVT Delete with Big Race Cam Kit. 75mm Throttle Body, Megasquirt MS3X. All credit to Dan @ R&R Motorsports for putting this together and sharing the results.
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Nothing really. Nothing of that sort is absolutely necessary for a manual swap. All that is necessary is to get rid of the trans stuff so you don't have a constant 6+ error codes and MIL light. Even that isn't really necessary as you can drive fine with no tune changes as long as the PCM is wired to think it's in D at all times. I'm going to leave fueling and timing up to a ZZP remote tune once I switch over to E85, no sense in messing with it now. Other than that, I think the F23 speed sensor is slightly off from the 4T65E as it would read 70 when I was going 73-74, so I adjusted that to match GPS speed. On a side note, I have been looking into extending the clutch master cylinder rod about 1" behind the clutch pedal as the pedal hits the firewall before it's fully pressed, so it might only be 90% released each time which I hope isn't causing extra wear.
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This aged well;)
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55trucker started following Luminac
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If you don't care if it's pristine and you're not worried about resale value and just want a driver, you may as well keep the red one if that's the one you like. Maybe if you keep driving it, you'll change your mind about selling the black one and fix it up. I would love to have that one, but I already have the Monte project.
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Crazy alternate idea…..sell whatever is required and buy this red/tan, 3k mile TGP. it’s probably the closest thing to a new one left in existence at this point. https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1302379627841983/?http_ref=eyJ0cyI6MTc2MDYzNzU2MjAwMCwiciI6IiJ9
