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O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)


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Oil Pump Drive Seal Fix

by: Shaun Ewing

 

You Will Need:

O-Ring, GM Part Number: 10477565

Coolant

Carb Cleaner (for cleaning the throttle body)

Various sockets and extensions

 

Step One:

airboxoff.jpg

Completely remove the airbox by unbolting it and removing the intake hose, intake temperature sensor (on the airbox) and PCV tube. This will help give you more room to work.

 

Step Two:

Disconnect the vacuum lines that are on top of the throttle body (these are all grouped together. Now, remove the two coolant lines running into the TB (These are a major pain in the ass to get off. I ended up cutting mine, and bypassing the TB alltogether). Remove the connections for the Idle Air Control (IAC) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Now, you have two choices. You can leave the throttle cables attached, and try to move the TB out of the way, or you can disconnect those cables and remove the TB completely. I took mine out all the way because it made it easier to clean.

 

Step Three:

fuelrail.jpg

Release fuel system pressure by using this valve. Unscrew the protective cover, and using a rag to catch the fuel, press it down until there is no more pressure left in the system. Be careful, the fuel in this line is under a moderately high pressure, and can come up and spray into your eye. Not fun. Disconnect the two fuel lines that are connected to the fuel rail. Move these out of the way.

 

Step Four:

sealcover.jpg

Remove the bolt from the C-clamp holding the drive assembly down. Remove the C-clamp. To remove the oil pump drive assembly, you have two options. You can use a sharp chisel and wiggle it under the lip (what I did) or try your luck at using pliers. Whatever you find easier. Remove the old O-ring. (It will be old and brittle and will probably fall into pieces)

 

Step Five:

Coat the O-ring in motor oil and slide it on into the drive shaft. It fits directly into the grove that the old one came out of. The new GM o-ring is made of silicone and will stretch without breaking (but put it on FROM THE BOTTOM, not the top, It doesn't stretch that much)

 

Step Six:

Push the oil pump drive assembly back into the hole. It probably won't go all the way in on the first try. Try and try again. Pick it up and rotate it until it goes down far enough to replace the c-clamp (It won't go down ALL the way because of the new o-ring. The c-clamp pushes it the rest of the way down) Reattach the fuel line. Replace the TB and all associated cables, vacuum lines, and wiring. Reattach the airbox and all hoses.

 

Enjoy your new non-leaking W!

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And for those of you who would like the opportuinty to really clean out your TB, purchase GP Sorensen kit # 96-3004 (Fuel Injection repair kit) This kit has all the o-rings and gaskets for the TB. You can disassemble the TB and clean it out very good. Then reseal it with all new gaskets and O-rings.

 

You can also do the TB Coolant Bypass Mod while repairing the O-ring seal. Maybe Shaun can get the right hose P/N for the TB Bypass.. I had them at one point but misplaced it.

 

Shaun,

 

it might also be a good idea for folks to disconnect the CTS pigtail and swing the wires out of the way... Just have to remember to recoonet it when finshing up or you will get a check engine light.

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When the GM dealer wants $15 for a 4 inch piece of hose, there's no point to it. Just use the same L hose and clamps from the TB, and make your own TB bypass. That's what I did.

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There is already a write-up on the .com, it just doesn't have pics (which I have offered to Shawn, I have them around somewhere) I also have a P/N for a hose I used from Advance Auto parts, but it's just a hose from something else. I'll have to find it.

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purchase GP Sorensen kit # 96-3004 (Fuel Injection repair kit) This kit has all the o-rings and gaskets for the TB. You can disassemble the TB and clean it out very good. Then reseal it with all new gaskets and O-rings.

 

where can i purchase this kit?

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thank you thank you

 

will need the right up next time as this time the heads are already off.

so it should be a piece of cake.

 

Monty

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  • 1 year later...

I'd like to add... that I always install an extra gasket on the drive gear, a paper one intended for older vehicles, as a back up in case the proper one fails someday.

You can get this suggested gasket by purchasing a distributor drive gasket for a 1978 chevy impala with a V6 motor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

does anyone have a good suggestion for getting the shaft out. I can't seem to get at it with a screwdriver to pry it up and the vice grips keep slipping im afraid it might chew up the metal from grabbing it. What kind of tools did you guys use?

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Yea, do a lot of twisting and turning while pulling it up. Don't worry about tearing up the metal a little, it shouldn't have any affect. Stick a screwdriver under the lip once it's up a bit to help.

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  • 5 weeks later...

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