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Hood insulation.


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#21 1 of 996

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 09:56 PM

Really superb!  It's coming together so beautifully!  How hard is it to remove the window and beltline trim?  Did you see my STE?

 

More time consuming than difficult.  The biggest bitch is the rear door handles.  GM must have started with those and built the car around it. :motz2:  :bang:


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#22 jiggity76

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 10:26 PM

There's other places that sell universal stuff, google - "universal hood insulation"

This brand seems to make a bunch:

 

https://www.autopart...ion/M71HI3.html

 

https://www.rockauto...ion pad,1000334

I like those way better than the silver one, thank you.  It's a contender but I'm still going to search the yards.


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#23 jiggity76

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 10:36 PM

More time consuming than difficult.  The biggest bitch is the rear door handles.  GM must have started with those and built the car around it. :motz2:  :bang:

How did you remove them, is there a tool to use, bolted on or do they slip over the inner and outer panels with clips or something?  I'm guessing they lock onto a channel?  I'm curious because I need to do this to my STE someday and want to do it properly.  Some of my beltline trim rubber is split and hanging off the car (the one below the rear quarter window glass).

 

dknB1p.jpgAtr4rE.jpg



#24 1 of 996

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 10:50 PM

How did you remove them, is there a tool to use, bolted on or do they slip over the inner and outer panels with clips or something?  I'm guessing they lock onto a channel?  I'm curious because I need to do this to my STE someday and want to do it properly.  Some of my beltline trim rubber is split and hanging off the car (the one below the rear quarter window glass).

 

dknB1p.jpgAtr4rE.jpg

 

Mirrors first.  Then the belt moulding gets pried off.  That just grips onto the pinch weld with clips.  After that, the glass run channel needs to be pulled out of the upper trim moulding to expose all the phillips screws.  Remove all the screws around the upper trim moulding and pry it off.  It will be stuck a bit due to a foam-rubber insulator.  After all the perimeter trim is removed the wide black applique gets popped off.  Rear doors are similar.



#25 jiggity76

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 11:31 PM

Mirrors first.  Then the belt moulding gets pried off.  That just grips onto the pinch weld with clips.  After that, the glass run channel needs to be pulled out of the upper trim moulding to expose all the phillips screws.  Remove all the screws around the upper trim moulding and pry it off.  It will be stuck a bit due to a foam-rubber insulator.  After all the perimeter trim is removed the wide black applique gets popped off.  Rear doors are similar.

Thank you so much, I was really sweatin it about how to replace these pieces.  I figured there are clips and screws somewhere but I don't want to damage anything that's reusable.  The door cladding is held on with screws and clips too right?  What about the chrome trim pieces that run along the front fenders and rear quarters?  Looks like there is a screw mount hole for the front fenders at least, maybe the same for the rear quarter pieces.  It's funny, these cars were probably put together on the assembly line really fast.



#26 1 of 996

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 11:45 PM

Thank you so much, I was really sweatin it about how to replace these pieces.  I figured there are clips and screws somewhere but I don't want to damage anything that's reusable.  The door cladding is held on with screws and clips too right?  What about the chrome trim pieces that run along the front fenders and rear quarters?

 

Those get a little tricky because there is a lot of plastic clips that can break.  Both mouldings on each fender and both on each quarter have small plastic pin retainers that grip into a plastic barrel nut in the body.  Each front door moulding has one up front as well.  Those have a death grip and neither the pin or the barrel nut are available so extreme caution is mandatory.  There is also a screw or 2 in the front and/or rear end of each moulding.  With the exception of the thin mouldings above the bumper covers, once any screws and pin clips are removed, each moulding needs to be released from the clips near the top then slid down to release the mouldings from the bottom clips.



#27 jiggity76

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Posted 13 July 2018 - 12:09 AM

Those get a little tricky because there is a lot of plastic clips that can break.  Both mouldings on each fender and both on each quarter have small plastic pin retainers that grip into a plastic barrel nut in the body.  Each front door moulding has one up front as well.  Those have a death grip and neither the pin or the barrel nut are available so extreme caution is mandatory.  There is also a screw or 2 in the front and/or rear end of each moulding.  With the exception of the thin mouldings above the bumper covers, once any screws and pin clips are removed, each moulding needs to be released from the clips near the top then slid down to release the mouldings from the bottom clips.

Do you mind if I PM you?  I have a lot of concerns and questions.



#28 1 of 996

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Posted 13 July 2018 - 01:28 AM

Do you mind if I PM you?  I have a lot of concerns and questions.

 

Not at all but I am currently very busy trying to get ready for the Pontiac Nationals in Norwalk, OH.  So I might not get to answer right away.



#29 jiggity76

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Posted 13 July 2018 - 01:43 AM

No hurry, thank you.






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