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Removing 3800 Oil Pan


'93RegalGS3800
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Having issues trying to get the oil pan to come out of my car. The pickup catches the windage tray in the pan keeping it from coming out. The engine is on a hangar right now and that extra clearance is still not enough. The goal is to finish the timing chain repair and replace the oil pan gasket

 

This is on a:

1993 Buick Regal GS sedan

L27 3800 V6

4T60-E

 

Has anybody done a repair like this before? This all started as a timing chain repair and it's now gone very far south. Never would have thought that it was quite this far in depth.

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Wait, in theory if you already have a little extra clearance can you get to the pickup and remove it? May have to get fancy putting it back in , also the windage tray/gasket could potentially stay on while the pan comes off first.

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Wait, in theory if you already have a little extra clearance can you get to the pickup and remove it? May have to get fancy putting it back in , also the windage tray/gasket could potentially stay on while the pan comes off first.

 

This could possibly be an idea. The windage tray is part of the oil pan so there is no way that is gonna come off that I know of.

 

I think I would rather have the engine go up than drop the subframe. It's a matter of removing the axles and disconnecting the exhaust. Wondering if removing the axles from the transmission would make the fluid come out.

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The windage tray IS the gasket, it's a coin toss as to wether it sticks to the block or oil pan better upon removal.

 

attachicon.gif 20180604_151244.jpg

 

attachicon.gif 20180604_151255.jpg

 

That is some L67 BS if I ever saw anything.

 

The windage tray on the L27 is part of the oil pan. It's tacked to it and there is no way to remove it without drilling the spot welds.

The longer I look at it the more I think the sub frame is gonna have to come down to get clearance. There just isn't any other way unless the pickup pipe is removed. Getting it back on would be a pain trying to balance the pickup with the oil pan. You run the risk of messing up the gasket seat. dropping the subframe would give you clearance to get the pan out.

 

I was wondering if there was a way to avoid having to do that on my car. It really freaks me out with all there is involved. looking further into it this looks like the only option.

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I never looked to see what a series 1 had before but it's surprising they're different. Have you thought about trying to find threaded rod to replace the subframe bolts with temporarily to lower and raise it with precision? We have to be pretty careful with cv shafts, brake/fuel lines, and the steering shaft.

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jack stands on the sub frame and removal of the axles is what I would figure to do. Removing the axles might require draining the transmission if fluid comes out from them.

 

Ether way it's gonna be a big job in itself.

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I never looked to see what a series 1 had before but it's surprising they're different. Have you thought about trying to find threaded rod to replace the subframe bolts with temporarily to lower and raise it with precision? We have to be pretty careful with cv shafts, brake/fuel lines, and the steering shaft.

Perhaps there was a year change with this, but all the 95 l27's I've dealt with have had that same gasket with the windage tray. I believe the 95's were a one off for some things as they were working towards obd2 and l36 changes.

 

For the removal. I've done it. I went the lifting the engine route. If I remember correctly, it was a pain in the ass but I didn't disconnect axle shafts. Have to use a cherry picker since you have nowhere to jack the engine with.

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  • 2 weeks later...

For the record, if you yank out the axles, some fluid leaks out but not all of it. You don't have to drain the trans.

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Pulling the engine you don't need to pull axles. Without 3' - 4' of  extensions I don't see removing the bellhousing bolt that is on the back side of the engine.

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