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Want to know if it’s safe to easy look at coil packs on my regal 2.8 V6


89-W-Body-Regal
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I want to know if it’s safe to remove the coolant recovery tank and front torque strut mounts on my regal 2.8 V6 when engine running? I want to remove each spark plug wire to see if each coil is firing. My regal was having a misfire at idle, stumbling, and engine shaking at acceleration and when applied brakes the engine started shaking like I was going to loose power. Is it safe to attempt this without damaging the engine? Just want to inspect each coil for proper working to see if coils are still good.

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Agreed,

 

the engines natural center of gravity will prevent it from rolling forward, one usually needs to make use of a prybar to lever the engine forward after the upper struts have been disconnected.

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You could also get a  cheap tester that wont require you to remove anything provided you can get at the wire somewhere along its length.  It wont tell you if the spark is great but will certainly let you know if the coil is bad.  Might be easier than taking things apart.

 

I have one of these and works good as long as its not overly bright in the room.

 

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Ignition-Spark-Plug-Coil-Wire-Tester_60320368449.html

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I want to remove each spark plug wire to see if each coil is firing.

Not a great idea.  The voltage build-up of an open plug wire circuit can damage the insulation of the ignition system--perhaps the plug wire itself, or the plastic housing of the coil.  Could even damage the insulation on the wiring inside the coil.

 

You'd be much better off to go the opposite way--use a 12V test light to ground the spark to each plug in turn, while watching a vacuum gauge (or tach, but the vacuum gauge is more sensitive) for vacuum/rpm drop.  Cylinders that DON'T drop rpm or vacuum when the spark is grounded are weak or dead.

 

Ground the lead for the test light.  Touch the pointy probe to battery +, to assure the light lights up.  Grease the tip of the test light with silicone dielectric grease, SLIDE the pointy tip between plug wire and plug boot.  DO NOT pierce the insulation of the wire or boot.  The test light will not light up when grounding the spark.

 

Given a wasted-spark ignition system, a faulty coil will result in two dead cylinders.  A faulty plug wire, or fouled plug can result in a single dead cylinder.

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If you have or can get a inductive timing light you could verify spark without the risk of shocking the hell out of yourself

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Not a great idea. The voltage build-up of an open plug wire circuit can damage the insulation of the ignition system--perhaps the plug wire itself, or the plastic housing of the coil. Could even damage the insulation on the wiring inside the coil.

 

You'd be much better off to go the opposite way--use a 12V test light to ground the spark to each plug in turn, while watching a vacuum gauge (or tach, but the vacuum gauge is more sensitive) for vacuum/rpm drop. Cylinders that DON'T drop rpm or vacuum when the spark is grounded are weak or dead.

 

Ground the lead for the test light. Touch the pointy probe to battery +, to assure the light lights up. Grease the tip of the test light with silicone dielectric grease, SLIDE the pointy tip between plug wire and plug boot. DO NOT pierce the insulation of the wire or boot. The test light will not light up when grounding the spark.

 

Given a wasted-spark ignition system, a faulty coil will result in two dead cylinders. A faulty plug wire, or fouled plug can result in a single dead cylinder.

Do you mean aim the point of the test light probe on each spark plug wire to see if it lights? You don’t have to touch each end of boots on wires to check coil with test light? Also the engine has to be running of course to diagnose if coils are working right?

By doing this test, If one of the wires don’t light up the test light, it will determine which coil is bad right? I thought the only way of knowing which one is firing is unplugging each wiring on coil to see if they are sparking. One guy at a shop told me to do it like that. But if it is easier instead of removing everything I am always looking for an easier process to work it out.

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Bare with people I am a starting out mechanic saving money doing things the right way here. If I buy this spark tester and connect to coil pack would this work? Here’s a pic I labeled to explain it better if it can work.

post-9541-0-34983700-1524434666_thumb.jpeg

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Bare with people I am a starting out mechanic saving money doing things the right way here. If I buy this spark tester and connect to coil pack would this work? Here’s a pic I labeled to explain it better if it can work.

Just get one of these, unplug from the spark plug and clamp to a good ground like an intake bolt, adjust like half an inch or so. If the spark can make it that far it should be an alright spark under load.d3b238cbeceb6cb0a547ee7f88bd6239.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

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