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Rounded bolts on backside of front hub. Options?


98gpgt
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So if I slit it with a dremel, spread it, the rounded bolt should be removable with a socket? It's not horriblu rounded I don't think, but enough to resist removal.

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I've tackled any number of jobs on different cars, never been thwarted like this to date. It's frustrating as heck. This is the type of job where you have to absolutely make sure your socket is fully seated, and you press hard. It also helps to have braker bars of various lengths. Everything is awkward about this job, but I didn't have to struggle on the other side. If you're method works, you know I'll owe you a big sloppy kiss 8p

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That looks really clean. In my world cars are made of rust. You really can't just hammer a socket on it? maybe even take an old socket and file down the first 16th or 18th in of it so you have more good flat to grab it with

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Yeah it occurred to me. We'll see. Thing is that side of the car has rust issues. Car either slumped in the mud on that side, or was an outright Sandy car. And to make things more interesting I found a watery oil leak on the floor. I spill a lot of oil, and there's the vc gasket issue, so hopefully it's a false alarm. Great car otherwise, despite much needed maintenance issues.

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Rust forms on the protruding threads of those three bolts where it goes through the wheel bearing housing threads. often a cut off wheel through that boss near the knuckle will take care of it since the bearing is getting replaced anyways.

 

Early second Jen's used a 15 mm hex head that was way stronger but the socket would often rub and wear a hole through the CV shaft boot.

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So they replaced that head with a larger washer with a 13 mm hex on the later cars and while it is lighter it is also a c*** in the Rust Belt where they like to round off I tend to use a half inch socket hammered on with the new ones

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I have yet to come across a fastener that did not budge with hammering on sockets or these:

 

http://www.tooltopia.com/irwin-hanson-vise-grip-394002.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&adpos=1o5&scid=scplpHAN394002&sc_intid=HAN394002&gclid=Cj0KCQjwy4zLBRCOARIsADfss35lA3sAW200TvpILsci4EMriQKs0R6Wpbtq4YbMaUscAD2_6HDJs8AaAg_rEALw_wcB

 

If you really round out a 1/2" head, you can usually hammer on a 12 point 12mm socket. That head looks almost reusable... Like said above, our fun rust filled scenery here necessitates creative bolt extraction methods.

 

One thing to note... You mentioned one got loose and tight again. So what? it threads into the hub, which is getting replaced, and you're replacing the fasteners. Crank away at it till it breaks.

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YEs but it would be nice to know the exact length of one of these. Just don't get why even with a loosened bolt PB doesn't loosen it altogether. You have to hammer on the Irwin bolt extractors? As mentioned I have a craftsman set. I could try a smaller one and hammer that on.

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YEs but it would be nice to know the exact length of one of these. Just don't get why even with a loosened bolt PB doesn't loosen it altogether. You have to hammer on the Irwin bolt extractors? As mentioned I have a craftsman set. I could try a smaller one and hammer that on.

Best to call a dealer, get a part number for the bolts, and just order some online. You could use some grade 8 ones, but you would have to deal with washers and correct length. The stock ones would already be shouldered and chamfered for you, as well as the correct length and grade.

 

Yes you hammer them on. You should use the smallest one that will cover the whole head. You certainly don't need those things bottoming out on the bolt shoulder like regular sockets. I have the irwin ones but I am sure the craftsman pieces are very similar in use and function.

Edited by vipmiller803
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Well I used some sense, don't got a lot, but watched a video and then fogured I should turn the flippin wheel to orient it bettet. Rounded off that problem bolt yet even more, but one socket in particular made the difference. All are now loosened up thank God. Put it all back together, running it around. The closest bolt thus far is a 7/16-13 (or -14, there's no confusion at the part store) 2" long. That's at least a close match for the new hub. The old bolts didn't seem to thread properly, but those at AAP and AZ were somewhat loose, but threaded on correctly it seemed. Gonna check out a private hardware store then I don't know what.

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Ok, again forget everything I said! 12mm × 1.75, grade 8, black and beautiful. Punk kid knew his stuff. I'm good to go boys. This job is done when I get home! Many thanks for all the input.

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