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3.4 Tune Up


Mstg007
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The car has been driving great, but the only thing I have noticed is that the engine acceleration time is extremely slow. I thought I would check the spark plugs since I do not know when they were changed and they look like the below. In some of the Ports, I noticed engine oil come out as I pulled the plug out. Not sure why or what is causing that. I am ordering at rock auto new air filter, NGK Spark plugs with a 0.45 Gap and Spark plug wire set. I am hoping that would help with the acceleration.

 

Thanks for the help!

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Air filter and pcv valve would be a nice touch and a fuel filter would be fantastic. How many miles are on it? One of the 60* guys will likely chime in with some timing belt info which may be something to think about.

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I`d recommend the AC Delco plugs, for some reason I`m seeing alot of bad NGKs being returned and GM never seemed to like Bosch. Also maybe valve cover gaskets with the spark plug seals, that might be where your getting your plugs lubricated from.

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Which NGKs specifically? We've used them in tons of 3800 cars over the years with zero issues. They're some of the better plugs I've used.

Iridium tipped Laser NGKs have been coming back as not firing, this has been within the last week though. At first i thought it was the idiot that put them in until it was a reputable account that went through several before switching to some Denso brand ones we had. Maybe they had a bad batch from the factory recently? NGKs are suppose to be a top brand, especially the Laser series.

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Any tips on replacing the fuel filter? I have not done one with fuel injectors just the old fashion Carb.

 

I am also thinking about swapping out the ignition coil. Is there just one ignition coil?

 

Also, I looking through the manual, I could not see where the location of it is.  Is it in a visible location; PCV Valve?

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Don't really have any real "tips" for removing the fuel filter.. it's on the driver's side of the car, near the rear wheel up along the frame rail. You can't possibly miss it. Depressurize the system by depressing the schrader valve on the fuel rail under the hood.

 

There are 3 coils and 1 ICM.  There is no reason to mess with them if the car doesn't have an obvious misfire.

 

PCV should be in a rubber line somewhere around the throttle body.  That line runs from a nipple on the manifold located next to the TB.

 

Iridium tipped Laser NGKs have been coming back as not firing, this has been within the last week though. At first i thought it was the idiot that put them in until it was a reputable account that went through several before switching to some Denso brand ones we had. Maybe they had a bad batch from the factory recently? NGKs are suppose to be a top brand, especially the Laser series.

 

Those are the factory plugs in TONS of cars right now.  I'm guessing it's a bad lot/batch.

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I guess my other question would be... I should be able to notice better performance after replacing the plugs and wire set?

 

Really depends how bad the old ones are.

 

You'll need a 19mm wrench and a 16mm line wrench and a screwdriver to remove the clip to do the fuel filter.

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Fuel filter, spray some penetrating oil on the threads abe careful not to twist the line. If you pull the fuel pump relay while it's running and let it stall there at least won't be a bunch of pressure. Still have a bowl or something ready to catch the fuel that runs out. The fuel filter is underneath in the back, when the new one comes you'll know what it looks like to find it. PCV, one of the 60* guys will have to explain that one but it's not going to be difficult.

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I`d recommend the AC Delco plugs, for some reason I`m seeing alot of bad NGKs being returned and GM never seemed to like Bosch. Also maybe valve cover gaskets with the spark plug seals, that might be where your getting your plugs lubricated from.

 

Aren't the ACDelco plugs made by NGK?

 

Damn, I didn't know NGK was having trouble that's my brand. Just about to buy a set of Iridiums for the Monte.

 

I haven't had an issue with the high end ones. I did have issues with the G power ones though. I somehow broke one

 

Any tips on replacing the fuel filter? I have not done one with fuel injectors just the old fashion Carb.

 

I am also thinking about swapping out the ignition coil. Is there just one ignition coil?

 

Also, I looking through the manual, I could not see where the location of it is.  Is it in a visible location; PCV Valve?

 

19mm line wrench on the filter, 16mm on the fuel line, both sides. It's really an easy job. It's under the rear axle area near the fuel tank, towards the middle.

 

3 ignition coils for 2 cylinders. There's an ICM behind it all too. It's located under the exhaust manifold. 2 ways to get to them... remove the fan and get them from the top, or do everything from the bottom. Taking off the fans is easier btw.

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Damn Nas, you even had the wrench sizes memorized.

 

Did it twice already, got to do it 2 more times. After a while, you learn GM uses the same shit over and over again. I actually changed the fuel filter on the Cavalier at a gas station in front of the convenience store. Ran out of gas, so I thought "what better time?".

 

I use the 17mm personally. Never had an issue with it on the fuel filter side, but I did have some with the fuel line on my Cav. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be a 16mm.

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NGK is making at least some of the AC-Delco plugs.  The ACs for my Trailblazer are NGK-sourced.

 

The valve cover seals can leak oil into the spark-plug recess, as can the gasket between cam-carrrier and head.

 

If I were doing a "tune-up" on a vehicle with known performance problems, I'd be testing fuel pressure, testing cranking compression in addition to replacing every filter I could think of.  PCV valve can be cleaned and inspected--don't usually have to replace them. 

 

I'd be cleaning the throttle body, the IAC passage, the EGR passages (all of them) and CONNECTING A SCAN TOOL to look at the data stream.  If the engine is in "Limp-Home" mode, power will be reduced.

 

A big (20 oz.) bottle of Techron in the gas tank at every oil change--and right now as well.

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  • 3 months later...

I don't know of any way to determine oil leakage into the spark-plug holes from the valve cover versus the cam carrier.  There's not much you can do but guess.  If you pull the valve cover off, and the O-rings aren't totally mangled...be prepared to rip the cam carrier off as well.

 

If I had the cam carriers off the engine, I'd tear it down to the head gaskets.  New timing belt 'n' pulleys, I have access to replace the alternator from the top (EASY) and to install a block heater.  The exhaust manifolds get new gaskets..  Easy access to the ICM and coils.  Older engines get the cam/lifter oiling modification.  There's all sorts of lovely stuff to be done with the heads off.

 

More work than most folks will go through to fix oil in the plug holes.

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I don't know of any way to determine oil leakage into the spark-plug holes from the valve cover versus the cam carrier.  There's not much you can do but guess.  If you pull the valve cover off, and the O-rings aren't totally mangled...be prepared to rip the cam carrier off as well.

 

If I had the cam carriers off the engine, I'd tear it down to the head gaskets.  New timing belt 'n' pulleys, I have access to replace the alternator from the top (EASY) and to install a block heater.  The exhaust manifolds get new gaskets..  Easy access to the ICM and coils.  Older engines get the cam/lifter oiling modification.  There's all sorts of lovely stuff to be done with the heads off.

 

More work than most folks will go through to fix oil in the plug holes.

But if u don't fix it then it could possibly cause a fire and toast my baby lol. I'm not most people I'm more than willing to take the entire car apart for no real reason haha. I'm really thinking I should just rebuilt the entire engine cheaper than buying a rebuilt one but might take me a long time since I have never done a rebuild.
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