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Soldering is also easy. actually I'm glad this little discussion came up because I just looked and the Monte Carlo that I'm preparing the l67 for also has the wrong fuel injector plugs. when I converted over I'll do a little write-up and chase some of the voodoo out of it. those are not EV6 injector plugs from the factory they are Delphi Mini. in other news I got my floor press yesterday! in the near future I'm going to press a couple of supercharger snouts apart and rebuild them, I'm already planning a write up for it and then once I get a couple of them under my belt I should be able to rebuild them for other members but we will know that they have a good brand of bearings and seal in them.

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Soldering is also easy. actually I'm glad this little discussion came up because I just looked and the Monte Carlo that I'm preparing the l67 for also has the wrong fuel injector plugs. when I converted over I'll do a little write-up and chase some of the voodoo out of it. those are not EV6 injector plugs from the factory they are Delphi Mini. in other news I got my floor press yesterday! in the near future I'm going to press a couple of supercharger snouts apart and rebuild them, I'm already planning a write up for it and then once I get a couple of them under my belt I should be able to rebuild them for other members but we will know that they have a good brand of bearings and seal in them.

Oh lucky. I just want to make sure I'm not doing this wrong. I don't want to change a crank pulley and have it fall off or buy the wrong injector plugs or the wrong map or anything. I want this to be as easy as it can be

 

 

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if there's a member anywhere near you w body people are usually easily lured with the promise of free pizza.

I didn't even need to offer pizza just asked if he wanted to help install

 

 

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3bd15fd74aaae30769dcda1e0887fa8f.jpg

Here is everything I got. Everything looks good. Included pushrods and head bolts as well. Vacuum lines are broke in the SC so L67SS I'll get those from you. What else is needed here? I have the injectors btw.

 

 

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efc17e6fcdbb1baf1aae0467fbb1a98d.jpg

Here is the injector connection. EV6 to EV1 correct? This being an EV1 what's on the car being an EV6? I'll take a pic of what's on the car tomorrow. 6d1954935df110a89923b81c4fafbb40.jpg

Second image is an adapter that was on one of them. Also would connect to my injectors

 

 

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Mini to EV1, or the plugs I posted links to for $3 each and just crimp them on. Or you could use mini to EV6 adapters and plug that into EV6 to EV1 adapters to get the maximum combination of useless parts.

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There's a special tool, you can get by with regular wire crimpers from a chain store though. When you're ready to do this let me know and I'll do a pictorial tutorial for you (BTW: Pictorial Tutorial would make an interesting band name).

 

EV1 Plug Body (Need 6):

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12129142/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKmtcsBT8Jq5J%252bgzSdZ9o4j4%3d

 

EV1 Pins (Need 12 but maybe get a couple extra in case you fuck one up):

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12103360/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujJaJCAjDwCUai%2fHBcP9TZzENkjHXDLp9I%3d

 

MAP Sensor Plug:

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12041332-B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKh1TC0gptBXgCWA7mLCRBso%3d

 

MAP Sensor Pins (Need 3):

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12089040-L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKnSHa2PTj7tEF%252bHEVOLXids%3d

 

MAP Sensor Rubber seals (Need 3):

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/15324985/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKmtcsBT8Jq5Jn%2f4%2fmFrxWak%3d

30 bucks for all those. Not bad. I'll order once my eBay thing finishes processing. What gauge wire should I use? And how long should I make the wire? Can anyone tell me where the map sensor goes? So far I haven't been able to find where it connects. There's a connection by what looks to be the blow off valve but that's it. Does look like the 3 pin map sensor
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The MAP sits on the firewall side of the motor, behind the SC on a bracket that bolts to the SC. It has a 3 prong connector and a vacuum line running to it.

 

What exactly are you seeing that you think is a BOV....? There is no BOV on a roots blower.

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The MAP sits on the firewall side of the motor, behind the SC on a bracket that bolts to the SC. It has a 3 prong connector and a vacuum line running to it.

 

What exactly are you seeing that you think is a BOV....? There is no BOV on a roots blower.

Ok that's why I can't find the connector for that cause I don't have that bracket and sensor yet. I think im thinking of the blow by valve which is circular by the throttle body connection. Connected to a spring that turns. Has a 2 prong electrical connection on it that I have yet to see on my harness.

 

 

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Are you talking about the boost bypass valve?  The black plastic thing on the front of the blower?  You don't have a plug for it on your harness.  You can either leave the electrical connection off and delete the DTC or get a pigtail and pin it into your PCM harness.

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Are you talking about the boost bypass valve? The black plastic thing on the front of the blower? You don't have a plug for it on your harness. You can either leave the electrical connection off and delete the DTC or get a pigtail and pin it into your PCM harness.

Well if it doesn't do anything then let's delete it? Is that the valve that lets boost out while idling? What needs to be done to delete it?

 

 

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The BBV needs to be there, the plug is kinda optional.  The PCM can command the solenoid to open the valve under various conditions like catalyst overheat, speed limiter, etc. The BBV will still function otherwise with just the vacuum connection. 

 

The purpose of the BBV is to keep the car out of boost until moderate/full throttle (so at idle, cruise, light accel, etc.).  For your car it would be as simple as just not connecting the plug to anything and deleting whatever DTC gets set in the tune.

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The BBV needs to be there, the plug is kinda optional. The PCM can command the solenoid to open the valve under various conditions like catalyst overheat, speed limiter, etc. The BBV will still function otherwise with just the vacuum connection.

 

The purpose of the BBV is to keep the car out of boost until moderate/full throttle (so at idle, cruise, light accel, etc.). For your car it would be as simple as just not connecting the plug to anything and deleting whatever DTC gets set in the tune.

Ok and then how hard would it be make a connection? I've got wires for the PCM if it's just another 30 cent plug on that site Tom gave me I'll just make a plug

 

 

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It would be exactly the same as when you installed the performance shift pin in the harness.  Just go get the pigtail off a junkyard car and extend the wires over to the PCM and pin it in.

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It would be exactly the same as when you installed the performance shift pin in the harness. Just go get the pigtail off a junkyard car and extend the wires over to the PCM and pin it in.

Ok I'm headed up there again Monday I'll grab that plug. I'm going to use a metal razor blade to prep the heads. I'm guessing we can use the same thing for the block. I don't have any fancy super fast spinning tools. Except a dremal

 

 

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Don't really want to use a spinning sanding disc on the head or block anyway, gasket scraper is fine.  Be careful when you use the razor blade to make sure you don't nick the surface.  Brake clean can help remove stubborn gasket material.

 

If you ever find yourself over on the west side of Frederick, can you see if the W Express on W Patrick St still sells E85?

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