Jump to content

Convertible top relays location 1995


beachbons
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone. Thanks in advance for your help. 

 

I'm currently working on my 95 3.1 vert.  My top goes up, but, does not go down.  I can hear engagement and the top moves up, but, there is nothing when I press "down".  My research as shown that there are separate relays for "up" and "down" and that they should be located near the pump.  Well, I can't find any relays.  Here is a picture of my pump area.  Would someone push me in the right direction.

 

Thanks.post-5737-0-05305500-1490124111_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

here's the diagram and a text description of where it's at. I can tell from the pin out on the diagram that it is the box that hanging at the bottom of the picture you posted.

post-3252-0-86167700-1490126322_thumb.jpg

post-3252-0-87815200-1490126362_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if the relay is indeed bad. You've got nothing to lose by cracking it open and cleaning the contacts, you can't ruin something that's bad so if you end up replacing it at least you gave it a shot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beat me to it....simplest thing is to swap the relays, they're identical, and see if the problem moves to the top wanting to lower, and not raise.  If so, the relay is the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

theres nothing special about the relays they are a pretty standard relay and connection. I agree with the others, its probably two separate relays connected together. did you check the fluid in the pump? it may be low as well. it still takes hydraulics to lower  it as well as raise it...if it moves a little then its probably the fluid, if it doesnt move at  all probably the switch, and if it doesnt move very fast in either direction i would guess the pump

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for everyone's quick help.  Well, first off, "down" still doesn't work.  Here is what I've done;

  • Reservoir is up to the top line.
  • I disconnected the relay and the "up" doesn't work along with the "down".  The "up" works with the relay connected.  So, I know this is the "top" relay.
  • I don't think that It is two relays that are "ganged" together.  This part number is a Potter Brumfield VBA-2002.  It is sold online as a remote-key lock relay.  Did the builders use this relay in the 1995 model year.
  • The purple & gray wires are the two wires that go to the pump.

I'm going to tear into the relay, tomorrow. 

post-5737-0-57217900-1490142448_thumb.jpg

post-5737-0-80638900-1490142477_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$18.16 at Rockauto, at least there's one 'vert part that's easy to get.

If you use a voltmeter or test light and probe the light blue wire while you press the switch to down and there's power there the relay is definitely bad.

Likewise if you probe the tan wire while it's going up you will find power there. Easy way to test the switch and the connection between the switch and relay.

 

post-3252-0-26324200-1490160104_thumb.jpg

Edited by Imp558
Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE;

Thanks for everyone's help.  Well, it wasn't the Relay.  I traced a continuity issue back to the "Up/Down" switch on the console.  Took apart the switch and found the metal "rocker" contact was shorter on the one end that was supposed to be contacting the "Down" side.  I was able to manually jump across each contact to move the top "up" and "down", so, I knew everything worked; I just had to get the contacts closer.  I bent the shorter end a little and it now makes good contact.

 

I can't imagine how it became shorter; did it break on the end?...I don't know.  I did put the piece under a magnifying glass and I asked my wife if she could see anything unusual about the piece and she immediately said, "one end is shorter" 

 

Here is a pic of the inside of the switch and a pic of the "rocker" contact.

post-5737-0-91525800-1490678197_thumb.jpg

post-5737-0-67092600-1490678233_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm an electronics engineer, and I have seen a number of different types of failures for metal contacts.   I don't have experience with this particular type of rocker contact failure, but that does not look like it was broken, burned, cracked, etc.   There is a real possibility that it was just manufactured out of tolerance way back in 1995 (GM supplier quality FTW), and it was just barely making contact for all these years.   Repeated use, age, or maybe pushing the switch too hard, bent the contact (or the substrate material that is holding the vertical tabs in place, are they loose?) just enough that it wasn't making contact.   "You had one job", ha ha.   The plastic cover that pushes on it may also have worn down some, causing the mis-alignment.

 

Great pictures, and thanks for doing the analysis.   If my switch on my 95 'vert ever fails, I will open it up and see if the same thing is happening.   Most people will just identify the switch as "bad", chuck it, and put in another (if you can find one).   But they can be fixed sometimes.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...