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Power Master Delete thread


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#1 White93z34

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 02:54 PM

I've seen quite a bit of interest in this as of late, unfortunately its 18*f outside at the moment, I will though detail my process of it that has enabled me to actually drive my TGP without shitting myself over failing brakes.

 

So till I get around to it, this will be a placeholder. Details will be added soon.


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#2 digitaloutsider

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 02:57 PM

 unfortunately its 18*f outside at the moment

 

Wuss.


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#3 Grandprix1

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 04:41 PM

24 here. Performance shift going in this evening. Since your probably working with brake fluid I don't blame you. It's to cold for me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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#4 Nas Escobar

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 05:21 PM

24 here. Performance shift going in this evening. Since your probably working with brake fluid I don't blame you. It's to cold for me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't do shit because I want to sand panels. Besides it's too windy.
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#5 Imp558

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 09:53 PM

Might as well fully derail Nunzi's thread. It's 24 here and Angel came home with a hunk torn out of her rump... again, can't imagine it was a fight with another cat.

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#6 GOT2B GM

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 10:14 PM

I have driven his TGP after the conversion, it works great. I will be doing this conversion to mine this summer.


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#7 White93z34

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 11:19 PM

I'll end up cleaning up the shitposting about the time I get underway on this again.

 

Just for the record, don't expect a crazy easy bolt on and go, it just cannot be that simple.

 

But will be far easier then pulling the entire dash and half the engine bay to swap a firewall plate.

 

Though I'd argue I have FAR less time in this from concept to finish product then all the hours I spent troubleshooting PMIII


-Chris D.

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1992 Chevrolet Lumina Z34 3.4L TDC v6 Getrag 284
1990 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix 3.1L v6 Hydramatic 4T60 Qty:2
2001 Cadillac Seville STS 4.6L DOHC v8 Hydramatic 4T80
1987 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/IROC-Z 5.0L v8, Hydramatic 700R4
2007 Ford Ranger 2.3 i4 Automatic


#8 jman093

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 03:59 AM

But will be far easier then pulling the entire dash and half the engine bay to swap a firewall plate.

 

NOW, I'm interested to hear this. Reading your first post, I assumed swapping firewall plates was what you're talking about. My three TGP's have PM3 functionality ranging from 0% to 50%. I've supposedly been 5 speed swapping one for the last two years, which will require the new firewall plate anyway, but my red car I've had the replacement firewall plate with vacuum setup laying in the garage floor ready to go for over a year now, but lacked motivation and a second reliable DD to drive while it's down.


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#9 jman093

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 05:27 PM

Is this fail thread ever going to happen?


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#10 White93z34

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 12:53 PM

So, My apologises for not getting this off the ground. I ended up having a change of plans and put the TGP in storage for the year, perhaps I'll get it out sooner then later.

 

But in the meantime, what I did was make a adapter plate the bolted to the firewall plate where the PMIII bracket used to be. I think I can get the drawing I used for it. Its not perfect and really could use the booster mounting holes moved down a tad, but it works as is.

 

then I drilled 4 holes in the firewall plate to allow the bolts of the booster to slide through, though next time I'll probably just cut a big hole so I can actually bolt the booster on from the inside of the car, as it currently is you cannot do that and I about murdered my hands getting it on with the booster attached.

 

Booster and master used were from a 4g F body. Though I just saw on Facebook, Bob seems to have used a Cadillac master cylinder of some kind, which looks to be a considerably better choice then I used.

 

No matter what you get its is extremely important to get a master that is a F/R split design. Any other W body is dual diagional and at least with keeping the factory lines will not be right for this application.

 

Then welding. You will need to cut the F body pushrod end off, and put the PMIII on the other side of it, adding length where necessary. 

 

Now the lines.

 

I ended up cutting the ends off the front lines and reflareing them with regular SAE thread ends then joined them into a T fitting so I could have one line feed both front wheels. the other end I terminated with the fitting for the master cyl

 

The rear lines I used an adapter to go from 1/4 line to 3/16 line and did the same thing

 

I think  have the recipts still with part numbers if wanted.

 

I probably made this thread a bit prematurely, What I have works but needs to be redone to be fully polished. Its kinda messy at the moment.


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-Chris D.

chrissig.jpg

1992 Chevrolet Lumina Z34 3.4L TDC v6 Getrag 284
1990 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix 3.1L v6 Hydramatic 4T60 Qty:2
2001 Cadillac Seville STS 4.6L DOHC v8 Hydramatic 4T80
1987 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/IROC-Z 5.0L v8, Hydramatic 700R4
2007 Ford Ranger 2.3 i4 Automatic





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