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Cleaning really burn in gasket from aluminum intake (LQ1)


Padgett
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What is the most effective way to remove ? I have seen 50 grit ScotcBrite mentioned but those ae $70.

 

I have a B&D medium grit "paint and varnish remover" (see pic) - will this work ? Do not want to scratch the gasket surface.

 

 

post-9662-0-86836100-1489187393_thumb.jpg

 

 

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I used the nylon wire wheels from HF to remove the epoxy on my aluminum wheels that the paint stripper didn't get and they didn't do any damage to the wheels. I'm not sure if those are the same grade of Aluminum though.

 

EDIT: Whatever you get you can try on a non-critical prt of the head or an old water pump or something first on second thought.

Edited by Imp558
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No no no no no no no

 

Staining and discoloration of the machined aluminum surface is perfectly acceptable it means that all the microscopic pores and crevices are now filled in and the surface is actually smoother in many ways.

 

The only acceptable cleaning methods according to all major manufacturers TSBs... are new and frequently changed straight razor blades without Nicks hand wood scrapers or chemical gasket removers slash softeners.

Do not buy any abrasive equipped Surface Prep discs as the material will get everywhere and Destroy bearings.

Abrasives are only acceptable where the part is completely disassembled and cleaned before reassembly and even then it is not to be used on gasket surfaces.

 

Using a new razor blade and carefully scraping at an angle will remove the gasket material without harming the surface Beyond minor scratches which do not affect the ra finish rating.

 

What you are looking for is light reflecting off of the surface in a consistent machines pattern similar to the surrounding areas regardless of the discoloration and staining. Graphite gaskets maybe a little annoying but you will definitely see the silver and all areas where remnants remain on the surface.

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When I did the intake manifold on the Buick, I had good success by stealing one of my wife's scouring pads for Teflon coated pans, and lubricating the pad with brake parts cleaner. You really don't want use an abrasive to clean the surfaces. 

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Good point..when you start reading repair procedures for working on aluminum parts, it almost sounds like the only possible way to clean them is to wait for a unicorn to fart on them..

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to clarify.... the later dynamic O ring gaskets with the plastic carrier/frame REQUIRE a smooth finish....any abrasives/roloc pads will give you millions of tiny leaks.

 

the older composit gaskets (the gray graphite with the thin steel support in the middle) will seal the scratches way better but I don't like rolocs

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 the gm tsb, other OEM's have similar TSB's

 

 

 

INFORMATION

Bulletin No.: 00-06-01-012D

Date: October 25, 2011

Subject: Use of "Surface Conditioning Disks" When Cleaning Engine Gasket Sealing Surfaces and/or Reused Engine Parts

Models:
2013 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2010-2013 model years and add Alternative Cleaning Method. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-01-012C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The Use of "Surface Conditioning Disks"



Notice
Do not use abrasive pad/bristle devices to clean the gasket surfaces of engine components. Abrasive pads should not be used for the following reasons:
- Abrasive pads will produce fine grit that the oil filter will not be able to remove from the oil. THIS GRIT IS ABRASIVE AND HAS BEEN KNOWN TO CAUSE INTERNAL ENGINE DAMAGE. Abrasive pads can easily remove enough material to round cylinder head surfaces. This has been known to affect the gasket's ability to seal, especially in the narrow seal areas between the combustion chambers and coolant jackets.
- Abrasive pads, wire and abrasive rubber finger wheels can also remove enough metal to affect cylinder head, block, oil pan rail, and intake manifold runner flatness, which can cause coolant and oil leaks and air leaks. It takes about 15 seconds to remove 0.203 mm (0.008 in) of metal with an abrasive pad.
- Abrasive pads, Abrasive rubber fingers wheels & wire wheels with high speeds grinders produce air bourn debris that can travel throughout the shop contaminating other work being performed outside of the immediate work area.
When cleaning engine gasket sealing surfaces and/or cleaning parts from an engine that are to be reused, surface conditioning disks (typically constructed of woven fiber or molded bristles) that contain abrasives, such as a high amount of Aluminum Oxide, should NOT be used.

The use of such surface conditioning disks dislodges Aluminum Oxide (from the disk) and metal particles, which can lead to premature engine bearing failure.

The presence of Aluminum Oxide in engine oil has been shown to cause premature engine bearing failure. In some cases, this failure occurs in as little as 2,200 km (1,000 mi) or less after the repair has been made.

Surface conditioning disks may grind the component material and imbed it into the disk. This can result when more aggressive grinding of the gasket surface takes place.

Recommended Cleaning Procedure

General Motors recommends the use of a razor blade or plastic gasket scraper to clean the gasket surface on engine components that are to be reused. When cleaning gasket surfaces, please note the following:

- When using a razor blade type gasket scraper, use a new razor blade for each cylinder head and corresponding block surface. Hold the blade as parallel to the gasket surface as possible. This will ensure that the razor blade does not gouge or scratch the gasket surfaces.
- Do not gouge or scrape the combustion chamber surfaces.
- Do not gouge or scratch any engine-sealing surface during the cleaning process.
Alternative Cleaning Method:

To properly clean the sealing surface prior to reassembly, GM Low VOC Cleaner, P/N 19287401 (in Canada, PN 88901247), should be sprayed on the mating surface. Use care to avoid getting solvent in any area other than the mating surface to be cleaned. Allow it to soak in for several minutes to loosen the old RTV sealer/gasket material. GM strongly recommends using a plastic razor blade or non- metallic scraper to remove all loose sealer/gasket material.

Important
The appearance of the gasket surface is not critical - the feel is. There will be indentations from the gasket left in the cylinder head after all the gasket material is removed. The new gasket will fill these small indentations when it is installed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is going to sound stupid i know, but a light switch or outlet cover plate. I saw this tip in a thread on another forum (the guy was using it too removed head gasket material), and i just recently tried it myself after trying everything else to remove a magnet that melted to the paint on a friends car and it worked wonders

Edited by jake91
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