worb4me Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 1998 GP GT Most a you guys know as much about this car as I do at this point. Was having overheating after replacing the infamous plastic coolant elbow. There's gurgling just under the front valve cover. Thought my radiator also sprung a leak, and maybe that's still the case. But the leakage was mainly from the bottle's weep hole I came to learn. And this was after dumping a tube of Barr's stop leak to see if the overheating stopped, it did. Seems strange having to top off the coolant, just to have it get pushed out of the weep hole. I haven't driven the car anywhere since taking possession of it. This is all while idling in place. Don't understand all this, but I guess I'm making progress. Edit + also some, probably normal steaming condensation coming fr dual exhaust. Funny though a smaller amount coming from pipe then muffler body itself judging by diameter of wetness underneath each, say 6" as opposed to 9 or 10". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Yeah, they have that. better to have coolant leak on the ground then pressurize the bottle and blow out the cap. Also, stop leak products tend to mess shit up way more then they fix things. You'd be ahead to fix the root cause and then flush the entire cooling system of that stuff. Psych0matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 1998 GP GT Most a you guys know as much about this car as I do at this point. Was having overheating after replacing the infamous plastic coolant elbow. There's gurgling just under the front valve cover. Bleed the cooling system, if that doesn't take care of it, fix the "real" problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worb4me Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Does the 3800 series II have more then one bleeder valve? I thought I saw that mentioned somewhete (near water pump ?), but I can't see one. I only see the one on top of the thermostat housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted June 3, 2016 Report Share Posted June 3, 2016 Also, stop leak products tend to mess shit up way more then they fix things. You'd be ahead to fix the root cause and then flush the entire cooling system of that stuff. The rest of the cooling system is going to be effed now. All it needed was bled. The air you had in it finally passed and that's why it is no longer overheating. Either that or the sender's temp reading is now ruined from a coating of the bars leak. Stop leak has no purpose. Spend a bunch of time trying to flush that stop crap out the block, heater core, radiator, overflow, etc (basically everything). Psych0matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worb4me Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 The car was overheating. I put the 1.62$ Barr's stuff in. No more overheating. I've since attempted to bleed the system, probably did an okay job. Put 16 miles on the car after doing the right wheel bearing (front - loud as hell over 30mph). No overheating yet. I'll bet if I put Prestone flush in the rad, and remove the Barr's, it may overheat again. We'll see this week. Bought a Prestone flush and fill kit. Would like to do th lim gasket, if I can determine that it's needed. But it's just sooo nice to have at least a part time car again. That job will have it laid up for the better part of 2 weeks, shipping time, my lazy slow irish ass. We'll see. Edit: I reread my first post. The overheating started before I replaced the elbow. It didn't redline, but I noticed it originally before touching anything to do w/the cooling system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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