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Hood release


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#1 jiggity76

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 12:01 AM

Finally got my hood cable replaced on the cutlass and it works but it doesn't have the tension that I think it's suppose to have.  Pulling the lever is blah and the hood doesn't pop up once the primary cable/hinge is released.  The hood opens fine with the secondary but the hood stays in the closed position and like I said doesn't pop up.  Is there a way to adjust the tension on the cable to remedy this?  I want the release handle to have more of a snap or pop feel when you pull it.  Also, does the hood release handle cover on the floor the same between the sedans and coupes?  My cover doesn't seem to fit correctly after the replacement release handle was put in.  The original one was cracked and I got one from a sedan.  They look like the same shape to me but not sure.



#2 GabsOlds

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 01:31 AM

What makes the hood pop up is a spring on the hood latch itself. Sometimes corrosion/age makes them not jump anymore. Look in there and clean it up with WD40, you might be able to revive it.


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#3 jiggity76

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 04:07 AM

Ok, thanks for the info.  I'll give it a try.



#4 jiggity76

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Posted 04 March 2017 - 06:01 PM

Nice out today and tried the WD-40 thing but didn't help.  My parts car hood release works great and the hood pops up like it's suppose to when you pull the cable.  Going to switch it over and hopefully everything will work. 



#5 GOT2B GM

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Posted 04 March 2017 - 06:23 PM

Dorman and GM make replacement cables as well


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#6 jiggity76

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Posted 04 March 2017 - 07:30 PM

My local GM dealer could of ordered me a GM cable but it would have cost $118 bucks with shipping so I thought I would try the parts car one first.  The hood latch would be another $42 bucks too.



#7 MemphisMan

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Posted 06 March 2017 - 12:47 AM

My local GM dealer could of ordered me a GM cable but it would have cost $118 bucks with shipping so I thought I would try the parts car one first.  The hood latch would be another $42 bucks too.

$118 for a cable...smh.  That's the kind of thing that pisses me off....and I've been drinking all day lol.


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#8 Schurkey

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Posted 06 March 2017 - 08:13 PM

Not specifically W-body, but there are several points to be made.

 

1.  WD-40 is advertised as a lubricant.  It isn't.  The stuff is fukkin' worthless except to remove moisture, for example a distributor cap that's become conductive on the inside from excess water in the crankcase, or from the pressure wand of a car wash.  There's a million aerosol lubricants, but original WD-40 isn't one of them.

 

2.  The hood needs to be properly aligned with the rest of the body, including the latch mechanism.  A few cables break because the cable and cable sheath have rusted.  It's fairly difficult to lube the cable, at least to get the lube all the way from one end to the other end.  Most cables break because the latch isn't properly aligned or it's in poor condition, so it binds up or requires excess cable travel.

 

3.  There will be rubber bumpers in various places that provide cushioning and alignment to the hood.  Make sure they're all in place and in decent condition. 

 

4.  Inspect the latch for a bent arm.  Maybe you aren't getting it to release properly because there isn't enough motion at the latch itself.


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#9 Imp558

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 02:23 AM

I keep a gallon of WD40 and a squirt bottle. As stated it's worthless as a lubricant but it can be used as a half assed penetrating oil to free stuff up before using a real lubricant. My favorite use for WD40 is when I scape gaskets as a rinse to remove little bits and pieces.

Most commonly I'll roll an engine over on the stand and rinse the cylinders out with WD.

WD = Water Displacer


Edited by Imp558, 07 March 2017 - 02:23 AM.

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#10 jiggity76

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 03:16 AM

The hood gaps look good to me and I used the parts car as a reference.  Once I get the hood open, I'll check the latch and again use the parts car as reference and make sure all the bumpers are there.  I've noticed that the hood cable doesn't go all the way flush against the plastic trim piece like the parts car one.  It sticks up once I pull it where the parts car goes nice and tight against the trim piece and has no slack so maybe there's something going on there.



#11 tina89

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 04:44 AM

I wanna see the details.



#12 jiggity76

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 11:26 AM

Got to get the hood open again so I can diagnose her.  I have a OEM latch and cable as replacements.  I'll keep everyone informed.



#13 Imp558

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 01:08 AM

A while back I had an hvac cable in the Bonneville that was sticky. It was a weekend and I wanted to put the dash back together so I stuck my vacuum pump on one end with a hunk of hose and sucked WD40 through it. It worked for that one.

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#14 jiggity76

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 03:03 AM

The hardest part is getting the hood open again.  Last time I jacked the front of the car up and had a buddy help me fish around under the bumper in front of the radiator from below and we finagled it somehow.  The routing of the cable wasn't that bad I thought.  I pulled the battery, windshield washer bottle, cruise control something I think, and of course the release handle next to the driver's seat.  I want to paint the latch to match the body since they did that at the factory but I also don't want to gum it up.  Been so damn humid here too so that will add to the fun!






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