Mods: If this thread is found to be useful, please move to the proper category so others can find it easier. Thank You.
This post will deal with one of the more annoying features of the 60 Degree V6, more particularly the LQ1. As luck would have it, we're not the only ones with this issue but our cars are more suspectable to be sent to the junkyard than those with a 350SBC (A well known engine that has the heater hose quick disconnect fitting) This is the "Quick Disconnect" fitting that is located on the lower intake manifold (LIM for short) and has a tube that runs to the heater hose by the brake booster (or at least, that's how it's configured on the LQ1. I cannot speak of the 3.1MPFI nor the 3100 SFI as I do not own one).
If your engine uses the DORMAN 800-401 quick disconnect fitting, this post is for you. If your engine does not use this fitting, then this post is not for you. You can continue reading to get an idea of how to fix your quick disconnect issues (which is basically just using a barb fitting to replace the quick disconnect) but this is to delete the DORMAN 800-401 fitting.
This mod/fix is an alternative to replacing the Dorman 800-401. More often than not, this piece leaks right where the plastic clip that holds the tube to the heater hose fitting is pressed in.
I will describe how to convert that piece from a Dorman "Quick Disconnect" hose, to an old fashioned hose and worm clamp fitting, like so.
[photobucket ruined the link, will update soon]
Materials you will need:
3" extension (OPTIONAL)
27mm 6 point socket (Deep is better, but shallow works too)
Teflon Tape (also known as plumber's tape)
5/8 in ID x 1/2 in MIP barb fitting. You can source this piece from the Home Depot or Lowe's. HD part number is LFA-493.
3/8 Ratchet (may be able to use 1/2)
19mm or similar socket
3 feet of 5/8 hose (or you can measure how much you really need, I only needed 26")
2 worm clamps
7mm or similar socket, depending on the size of your worm clamp's screw
1/4 3" and 6" extensions, as this will help reach into that area more comfortably
Flathead screwdriver (may or may not help)
Extra anti-freeze/coolant mix
Step 1: Disconnect MAF sensor (94+), IAT sensor, vacuum lines and any other accessories on the intake tube.
Step 2: Remove the air filter box and intake tubing. If you have replaced your air box with a cone filter, remove the intake tube. You may have to remove the MAF (if so equipped) to move around the intake tubing and air box more freely. You may or may not have to actually remove the air box. The goal here is to have room under the throttle body, where the quick disconnect fitting is located.
Step 3: Locate the heater hose disconnect and place a catch pan, bucket, tupperware, bowl of choice under the heater hose.
Step 4: Remove the heater hose pipe at the quick disconnect by pressing on the clip in an inward motion and pulling out. If you're lucky (or better said, if your engine has already emptied itself via that tube) you probably will only get a couple drops out of that tube.
Step 5: Drain bowl of choice in a designated coolant storage pan for proper disposal (AKA I'm not responsible if you let the coolant go in the drain and you get caught/ticketed for it. Always dispose of fluids properly).
Step 6: place bowl of choice under the quick disconnect fitting (Once removed it does leak a bit)
Step 7: Remove the quick disconnect hose fitting with the 27mm socket.
Step 8: Once all coolant is out of the LIM, drain the bowl of choice into your designated coolant storage pan and set aside.
Step 9: Wrap teflon tape around the barb fitting. Remember, the 1/2" is the size of the thread side. 5/8 is the size of the barb where the hose goes.
Step 10: Thread in the barb fitting into the socket with your fingers. Make sure it is in straight and not crooked as a crooked fitted barb fitting will mess up the threads.
Step 11: Once verified that the barb fitting is straight and will no longer finger tighten, use your 19mm (or similar) socket and tighten barb fitting until tight. If you wish to torque it, please torque below the recommended torque spec for the quick disconnect fitting. Remember this isn't an OEM part, so take caution. 10lb ft torque should suffice.
Step 12: Remove the hose at the heater hose pipe
Step 13: Measure and cut your 5/8 hose then fit with worm clamps
Step 14: Slide the hose on the barb and tighten the worm clamp with the 1/4 socket. Socket size and extensions needed may differ on your selected worm clamp and socket location. I was able to get it using a 7mm socket and a 6" extension fitted through a passageway under the throttle body.
Step 15: Place the 5/8 hose on the heater hose pipe nipple and tighten the worm clamp there.
Step 16: Fill radiator (and reserve bottle) to appropriate levels.
Step 17: Check for leaks. No leaks = a successful fix!