The BLUE connector is C1.
Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).)
Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).)
Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground.
Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light.
Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground.
Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used.
Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected.
Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light.
The BLACK connector is C2.
Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button.
Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15.
Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13.
Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model.
Driver Info System was not available 92+.
You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regencyâ€™s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket.
Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
Edited by digitaloutsider, 12 July 2017 - 02:10 PM.