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Cutlass DIS installation info

car cutlass dash dic fuel hud lights out problem speed

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#1 rockfangd

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 05:09 AM

The BLUE connector is C1.  

 

Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).)  

 

Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).)

 

Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground.

 

Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light.

 

Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground.

 

Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used.

 

 

Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected.

 

Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light.  

 

The BLACK connector is C2.

 

Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button.

 

Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15.

 

Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13.  

 

Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model.

 

 

Driver Info System was not available 92+.

 

You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket.

 

Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.


Edited by digitaloutsider, 12 July 2017 - 02:10 PM.
Fixed formatting.

rockfangd

#2 ManicMechanic

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 05:33 AM

FWIW, only 27 1991 Cutlass Supremes got both HUD and DIS.

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#3 rockfangd

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 07:05 AM

wow. Thank you
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#4 rockfangd

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 02:06 AM

bumpety bump


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#5 94 olds vert

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 11:04 AM

INSTRUCTIONS: Oldsmobile Driver Information System: *not responsible for errors during installation such as damaged DICs, car fires, house fires, total city fire, end of universe due to division by zero through the following of the info provided* The Driver Information System is used on several Oldsmobile model lines. This includes A, G, H, L, N, and W-bodies of the 88-91 era. All units are physically identical, but have some internal programming differences. Wiring colors can vary greatly, so verify all wires by placement. This unit has a pigtail on the rear, and colors on the pigtail differ from colors within the vehicle wiring harness. DIS C1=blue 8 cavity connector connector pin# color(unit) color(vehicle) function DIS-C1-A RED ORN constant hot, memory (+) DIS-C1-B PNK/BLK PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+) DIS-C1-C BRN BRN or GRN or YEL VF dimming input (+) DIS-C1-D GRY GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) DIS-C1-E BLK/WHT BLK/WHT ground (-) DIS-C1-F* BLK/GRY not present --- DIS-C1-G$ YEL not present or BLU E/M input DIS-C1-H BLK BLK/wht(or BLK) ground DIS C2=black 4 cavity connector connector pin# color(unit) color(vehicle) function DIS-C2-A ORN ORN SERIAL DATA INPUT DIS-C2-B DK GRN DK GRN VSS/speedometer input DIS-C2-C PNK PPL fuel level sender input DIS-C2-D% BLK/GRN not used or BLK ground for e/m circuit(-) * all vehicles examined omit connection to this wire, even though it is present on the unit pigtail $ not necessary to be hooked up. most vehicles examined omit this wire. % only hooked up on vehicles if equipped with an E/M input and what they do: DIS-C1-A Constant hot source, it is power for the DIS memory. Digital clusters would have this wire, but if your car does not have a digital cluster, the radio will have a constant hot wire for it's memory that would be a good power source. DIS-C1-B Switched ignition feed, hot in run. it powers up the unit when you start the car. You can tie this to the cluster or radio. both have a hot in run wire. DIS-C1-C Vacuum fluorescent dimming input. It controls the digital display intensity. you can tie this to a VF wire. DIS-C1-D Button Illumination (adjustable backlighting)". You can hook these to the backlighting for the cluster or radio. DIS-C1-E Ground. DIS-C1-F Not used and not defined DIS-C1-G English/Metric input, externally set by cluster or switch to set DIC unit mode, if wired. DIS-C1-H Ground. DIS-C2-A SERIAL DATA INPUT, which the DIC gets info from the ecm/pcm for calculations and display. DIS-C2-B VSS signal input. this can be hooked to the cluster feed for the speedometer. DIS-C2-C Fuel level gage input. this can be hooked to the cluster feed for the fuel gauge. DIS-C2-D Ground, connected only if E/M input is present(without regard to mode) 1992 analog UB3 CS cluster connector Pin# Wire color function aUB3-C1 TAN/WHT brake indicator aUB3-C2 WHT tachometer input aUB3-C3 GRY illumination (adjustable backlighting) (+) aUB3-C4 PPL fuel level sender input aUB3-C5 DK GRN VSS speedometer input aUB3-C6 YEL not used, VF display dim enable (+ to enable dimming) aUB3-C7 BRN/WHT not used, VF dimmer input aUB3-C8 ORN not used, ELEC FUSE circuit, constant hot, memory (+) aUB3-C9 --- not used aUB3-C10 BLK ground aUB3-C11 --- not used aUB3-C12 --- not used aUB3-C13 PNK/BLK CLUSTER FUSE circuit, Hot in run (+) aUB3-C14 --- not used aUB3-C15 PNK/BLK INDICATOR FUSE circuit, hot in run, bulb test, and start (+) aUB3-C16 DK GRN coolant temperature sensor input connector Pin# Wire color function aUB3-D1 --- not used aUB3-D2 BRN Check Gauges output to HUD unit aUB3-D3 TAN/BLK shift indicator (if equipped) aUB3-D4 LT BLU left turn indicator (+) aUB3-D5 LT GRN high beam indicator (+) aUB3-D6 DK BLU right turn indicator (+) aUB3-D7 BLK ground aUB3-D8 YEL fasten seatbelt indicator aUB3-D9 --- not used aUB3-D10 --- not used aUB3-D11 TAN oil pressure input aUB3-D12 --- not used aUB3-D13 LTGRN/BLK "Antilock" indicator aUB3-D14 YEL/BLK "low coolant" level indicator aUB3-D15 BRN charge indicator feed (sets check gauges indicator) aUB3-D16 BRN/WHT "Service Engine Soon indicator different pinouts existbetween 92-93 and 94 analog cluster, you cannot substitute a 92-93 cluster for a 94 without loosing these critical indicators. Wire decoding, CS DIS to 92 CS analog cluster. DIS connector C1=blue 8 cavity connector connector pin# color(unit) color(vehicle) function DIS-C1-A RED ORN constant hot, memory (+) aUB3-C8 ORN not used, ELEC FUSE circuit, constant hot, memory (+) or Radio-C1-10 ORN constant hot, memory (+) DIS-C1-B PNK/BLK PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+) aUB3-C13 PNK/BLK CLUSTER FUSE circuit, Hot in run (+) DIS-C1-C BRN BRN or GRN or YEL VF dimming input (+) aUB3-C7 BRN/WHT not used, VF dimmer input or Radio-C1-7 BRN/WHT VF dimming input (+) DIS-C1-D GRY GRY Illumination (adjustable??? backlighting) aUB3-C3 GRY illumination (adjustable backlighting) (+) DIS-C1-E BLK/WHT BLK/WHT ground (-) ground to chassis or other ground DIS-C1-F* BLK/GRY not present --- *not used, do not connect DIS-C1-G YEL not present or BLU E/M input HUD LT BLU E/M wire DIS-C1-H BLK BLK/wht(or BLK) ground ground to chassis or other ground DIS connector C2=black 4 cavity connector connector pin# color(unit) color(vehicle) function DIS-C2-A ORN ORN SERIAL DATA INPUT aldl ORN ALDL data wire DIS-C2-B DK GRN DK GRN VSS/speedometer input aUB3-C5 DK GRN VSS speedometer input DIS-C2-C PNK PPL fuel level sender input aUB3-C4 PPL fuel level sender input DIS-C2-D BLK/GRN not used(except if e/m equipped)BLK ground (-) ground to chassis or other ground


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#6 sean1991olds

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 04:59 AM

I want to add some pictures to this thread... I got this DIS from ebay and when I got it I heard rattling.. thinking and wondering if it was electrical components or solder or something that could cause a short... I opened it up. And in doing so, lots of 90s era plastic broke. BUT, figured this might be nice/useful for people to see.

dis1.jpg

 

Inside view of front of display, here you see the buttons - and broken plastic

dis2.jpg

 

Front display:

dis3.jpg

 

Inside:

dis4.jpg

 

More internals:

dis5.jpg

 

My efforts to protect the 2 PCB's from touching:

dis6.jpg

 

NASTY crack... of course this happened:

dis7.jpg

 

Otherwise looks great:

dis8.jpg

 

Taped up on the outside too.. and gap toothed as that part broke off:

dis9.jpg

 

Broken pieces of my heart :P

dis10.jpg


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#7 jiggity76

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 11:52 AM

That's a bummer.  I'm also going to attempt putting a DIS in my Cutlass this summer so maybe we could help each other out with the help of the other guys.  I don't know anything about wiring stuff at all.  My car is suppose to have been prewired for the DIS but having a tough time finding it.  I'm going to pull the radio out again and see if I can find it in the jumbled mess of wires. 


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#8 jimmyfloyd

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 01:46 PM

Did you check to make sure non of the capacitors were bulging when you had it apart? They look ok from the pictures, but always good to check. 


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#9 sean1991olds

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 02:46 PM

Yeah, that was one of the first things I looked at - they looked ok! Working in the IT service field I've seen many motherboards with bad caps.. and I have people say.. but it should still work right? And then I say, you see this component right here.. looking like that.. it no longer can do what it was supposed to do.. so many toasted ECS and AsRock motherboards back in the early 2000's (other brands too).

 

Did you check to make sure non of the capacitors were bulging when you had it apart? They look ok from the pictures, but always good to check. 


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#10 Imp558

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 06:32 PM

If you give me some specific years I'd be happy to post schematics and pinouts.

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