Jump to content

4t60e did not want to go into 4th gear or lock up TC


slick
 Share

Recommended Posts

Since the Bonneville broke down, again, I had to take the Regal home. I haven't got to drive it in a week, but instantly I noticed that the 1-2 shift was a bit more firm than I had ever remembered. Got onto the highway, sat at a cool 3200 rpm at 68 mph. Wasn't going into 4th and the torque convertor was not locking up. Pulled off on a rest stop, shifted through the gears, everything was fine. Hopped back on, still no 4th or tc lockup. Pulled off, and despite being against using additives, I added some transmission stop slip/lubricant. Got back on the highway, shifted into 4th a bit firm, tc locked up a bit firmly. After being on the highway, and having to speed up and slow down with traffic, the transmission seems to act normal again.

 

Now, this car hasn't really been fully into my hands since about the last few months. I asked Rachel's dad, they have never done anything with the transmission fluid since they've owned it (probably a good 6-7 years now). Car has 148,xxx miles on it.

 

Most likely, some dirt caused a seal or solenoid, or maybe something in the valve body, to not work properly. The fluid definately isn't as bad as I have seen in other cars, but it definately isn't cherry red anymore.

 

With the high mileage, and the neglect that the transmission as received its entire life, I'm pretty wary of a transmission flush. I'll probably do a pan drop and filter change, and I'll add some Lucas transmission crap while I'm at it too.

 

So... anyone else think this transmission is on it's way, or that the fluid really just needs changed out?

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've had the brake light/tcc disconnect switch do something very similar to me before... not necessarily rough shifting, but the won't go into 4th issue... i had to lift up on the brake pedal for it to lock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chris... did you try shutting the car off and restarting PRIOR to using the additive? What you describe was OVERHEAT LIMP MODE, where the car does not engage OD or the TCC clutch. if you had re-started it, you would have reset the PCM and the problem would have gone away.

 

I have suggested to everyone that they should add a transmission cooler to their car if they have a 4t60e, and you should do the same (ask AWEB or XTREMREVOLUTION). I think you will find the transmission will be fine once you do that.

 

 

If I did not add mine the white 95 sedan would be in limp mode most of the time... and the tranny is really bad in that car. :rolleyes:

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i haven't really found it to be necessary, but i'll be hooking one up soon anyway, i've had it sitting for about 6 months... might as well do it while i have the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It may have one already, I haven't checked.

 

The fluid is definately old, and needs replaced, so doing that next week.

 

Ken, I did not get to turn the car off/back on. I actually almost did it, but I wanted to get on my way to visit family for the weekend.

 

If after the fluid and filter change it acts fine, I'll go ahead and add a trans cooler. I don't want to invest any more money into a ticking time bomb unless I know it's good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It may have one already, I haven't checked.

 

doubtful. I've never seen a 94+ car with an auxilary cooler. If you looked at a 9c1 or 9c3 gen 1.5 car, it might have one.... if you know where the donor is for those seats you got :sacop:

 

the in tank radiator cooler is insufficient.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like I said, I'll do the fluid and filter first. If all is fine afterwards, I'll add a cooler.

So you aren't interested in doing the proper fix unless it is fixed first? :lol:

 

btw, a thicker radiator from an LQ1 would help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't see the point in adding a cooler if the transmission is on its last legs. Monetarily, doesn't make sense to me. Adding a cooler is pretty quick and simple anyways.

 

The current radiator is just fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't see the point in adding a cooler if the transmission is on its last legs. Monetarily, doesn't make sense to me. Adding a cooler is pretty quick and simple anyways.

 

The current radiator is just fine.

Going into limp mode does not mean the transmission is in it's death throws, it mostly means it just isn't getting enough cooling on a very hot day. If it starts doing it when it is cool outside, then you have problems.

 

LIMP MODE does not reset itself, if it happens again, you should turn the key off and re-start the car. You can even do this without stopping, simply flip the key off and on and it will reset the PCM without having to actually restart the motor. if you are worried... put the car in neutral.

 

 

What is wrong with my transmission is that the TCC clutch ate itself due to a bad PWM making it stay partially applied, and polluted the rest of the transmission... and now OD and the TCC slip sometimes. The fluid is badly burnt and very metallic... even a week after I changed it. so I'm still driving it and just waiting for the worms...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a quick update, took it for a drive last night. The shifts seemed back to normal, however it almost kind of seemed to hunt around between 4th and tc lockup. It would be correct, but very jumpy of going out of tc lockup.

 

I'm making Rachel buy new fluid and filter this week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well... the hunting around got worse today, turned almost into a bucking. So I got off the highway, and the car would barely stay running. Turns out, two of her spark plug wires were loose at the coils. Who knows how the hell that happened, but the bucking went away.

 

After I stopped, the trans went back into the overheat limp mode that Ken mentioned. Turned it off then back on, went into 4th and tc lockup no problem.

 

So... this week, new fluid and filter go in. I'll also be looking to pick up a transmission cooler too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want a trans cooler I have one a factory aux cooler off a z34 that i'll give you for cost of shipping. call me. I have no way to verify its integrity since it was bypassed on the car it came off of.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

THe 94+ radiator support will only fit the 93- cooler if you modify it. only 3 of the mounts are in the proper location, and the lines do not clear the support.

 

that said.. i have done the work to install a 93- cooler on the 95. i had to use one of the mounts from a second cooler to do the job. I am strongly considering a aftermarket cooler that will have more cooling/flow, which i would mount on the right side of the radiator area instead.

 

OEM mounts

IMG_5306.jpg

 

Modified mounts

IMG_5316.jpg

 

installed

IMG_5323.jpg

IMG_5324.jpg

 

I had to cut and bubble flair the lines later, and I ran rubber hoses from the cutoff lines under the core support through a pass-though between the metal and the plastic shield.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want a trans cooler I have one a factory aux cooler off a z34 that i'll give you for cost of shipping. call me. I have no way to verify its integrity since it was bypassed on the car it came off of.

 

I'll call tonight after work. I'll probably just make some brackets up here at work to mount it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ken, that passthrough between the metal and plastic shield is where i ran my return line. i figured that was there for a reason.....the stock cooler lines

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just make damn sure your fittings are tight and the hoses are clamped really well onto them. last thing you need is to have a transmission hose burst.

 

you can also pick up quite a few aftermarket transmissions from auto stores with fittings and all, which also come with hoses. I installed mine in 2 hours.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not sure what came with my kit as far as clamps go, but I remember there being two clamps per hose end, and the hose was very heavy duty and braided..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...