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  1. #31

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    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    Benefit (possibly) cooler intake temps.

    Drawback- If you're in a cold climate, there is a possibility of your throttle getting stuck in really cold temps.
    2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 5-speed manual
    2010 Nissan Altima SR Coupe- 3.5 V6 6-speed manual

  2. #32

    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    What are the chances of getting the pictures back up sometime soon? Hmm?
    Red 1995 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with a 3100..What else to say right now?

  3. #33
    rockfangd's Avatar
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    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    probably slim to none
    rockfangd

  4. #34

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    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    Where/how do I release the fuel pressure?
    ** SIGNATURE PICTURE REMOVED- MAX SIZE 600 X 150 PIXELS**<br />http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=69063.msg881534#new<br /><br />
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  5. #35
    ManicMechanic's Avatar
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    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    I just pop the fuel cap, then pull the ecm or fuel pump fuse and crank it over for a minute.
    Jay
    "Eh, ya know somethin' Jimmy...It's one thing to understand how to bolt aftermarket parts to your car...It's another thing entirely (opens exhaust on GN) to understand how they all..work..together!"

    I may not have a W anymore, but my trucks have a lot of w-body parts.
    THE ANSWER TO 1984 IS 1776.

  6. #36
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    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    Quote Originally Posted by sonick
    Where/how do I release the fuel pressure?
    on the fuel rail.
    Jay

    1994 Oldsmobile Cultass Supreme SL
    3400/Getrag 284 5spd
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  7. #37

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    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    I just tore down the 92 GP I just bought, once everything was out I was able to just pull the darn plug up with my fingers! I KNOW this thing was leaking oil. I did change the gaskets and the plug o-rings, the front side plug holes had quite a bit oil. Is there a gm part no. for the o-ring? (NEVER MIND I LOCATED IT)

    hmdznrcld aka RUNDLC

  8. #38

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    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    im going to bring this back alive for the simple reason that this can be done with alot less effort. heres what i did on mine:

    tools rqd.
    1. #45 O-ring from hardware store (or the GM one if you want)
    2. 13mm socket with a crap load of extensions
    3. 13mm open end wrench
    4. T-10 torx *(if needed for the sensor on throttle body)
    5. a good degreaser or brake parts cleaner
    6. a good magnet
    7. oil resistant rtv sealant

    pull the air box and intake tube out, unbolt the crossover pipe. their are 3 bolts in each connection, 1 on each you really cant see. the back connection requires about 2 feet worth of extensions on the socket. they are all 13mm.

    i could not physically remove the crossover pipe because the master cyclinder is so tight, so i moved it out of the way as much as possible.

    after the cross over is moved, use a 13mm wrench to remove the retainer bolt. clean the crap out of the area with a good degreaser, or brake parts cleaner.

    slide the oring over the shaft. its tricky but can be done. then pry up on the shaft and shim it up while you do the next part. (i used a small craftsman screwdriver.) then slide the o ring over the wide part of the shaft, getting it under where it belongs. *i needed two hands so i had to remove the top sensor on the throttle body to get my are down there (93 motor.)

    once its in i used a crap load of rtv and smeared it in there as best i could, turning the shaft to ensure it was all over. then reassemble. make sure you plug all sensors back in, IAT, MAF

    doing it this way alot less had to come off making it alot quicker of a job. it took me about 2 1/2 hours from the time i pulled the car in to the time all the tools were cleaned up (and picking up after my 4 year old son.) i hope this helps someone save some time.

    http://60degreev6.com/forum/attachme...9&d=1174459029
    http://60degreev6.com/forum/attachme...0&d=1174459029
    http://60degreev6.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1174459029
    http://60degreev6.com/forum/attachme...2&d=1174459099
    http://60degreev6.com/forum/attachme...3&d=1174459099
    http://60degreev6.com/forum/attachme...4&d=1174459099
    http://60degreev6.com/forum/attachme...5&d=1174459174
    http://60degreev6.com/forum/attachme...6&d=1174459174


    ~i stole this method and pictures from another website.~
    2000 Regal GS
    1995 Lumina APV 3800
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  9. #39
    Community Manager White93z34's Avatar
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    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    that is an innovative way of going about it. I did something similar with a O ring a few years back, however I took the hard way and tore the intakes down to get there.
    -Chris D. - Your Community Manager

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  10. #40

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    Re: O-Ring (Oil Pump Drive Seal) Fix (Pictures)

    ***the info following is applicable to all engines with remote oil drive in terms of the parts, location and recommendations... the difference is on other motors you can extract the unit without pulling a head, I provided the following to make it possible to do the job on the most difficult variant of oil drive configurations***

    3.4 specific instructions:

    There is a specific O-ring for this job. Go to your dealer and get the BROWN silicone O-ring.(oil/distributor drive O-Ring, brown silicone rubber - 10477565) they will know what you need. ask for a "OIL DRIVE O-RING" there or any reputable parts shop.

    next.. GET A PAPER GASKET. One for a 1980 anything chevy v6 will work, but you can make your own. WHY? You should DOUBLE GASKET this seal. I do on all the 60V6s I've ever touched.

    You cannot reach the O-ring on the drive gear due to clearance on this motor (91-95 for sure) You must make the clearance.

    CLEARANCING HEAD: I do not like hacking the head completely, which would remove the bolt hole for the lower intake, so instead I removing maybe 1/4 inch of material with a hacksaw blade from the area right above the seal. This leaves the bolt from the lower intake functional, but thins the tab of metal hanging below it without harm. You will need to remove a little of the very lowest portion of the bolt's hole.

    CLEARANCING OIL GEAR:Next, I recess the "freeze-plug" type cover in the center of the drive-gear by tapping it down from above with a couple linked 3/8" extensions, turning it (or moving the extension) so the plug moves uniformly. Using the hacksaw blade again, I notch into the top of the drive-gear level with the top of the recessed cap. Cut about 1/4 of the radius, and a quick tap with a screwdriver will pop the cut section off. hack the edges clean, and even sand to de-bur so you don't damage the new o-ring.

    The gear should lift high enough to have the bottom of the O-ring at or above the level of the block. Cut or break the old ring out. Grease or oil the new ring and the drive-gear cap (I prefer dielectric grease) and slip it over the cap, stretching it over and sliding it down until in position. (note that I used some scrap insulated electrical wie to drag it) Degrease the area and get the paper gasket. Cut the paper gasket and rub it with a RTV sealant. wrap it around the oil drive, make sure it is straight and slam that oil-drive gear home and bolt it down.

    image album of what I did:
    http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...20drive%20fix/
    Last edited by Crazy K; 02-15-2013 at 03:09 PM.


    BUILDER AND DESTROYER OF FINE(?) AMERICAN CARS.

  11. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Crazy K For This Useful Post:

    dtom4 (03-30-2010), z34dumas (12-19-2012)

  12. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazy K View Post
    3.4 specific instructions:

    There is a specific O-ring for this job. Go to your dealer and get the BROWN silicone O-ring.(oil/distributor drive O-Ring, brown silicone rubber - 10477565) they will know what you need. ask for a "OIL DRIVE O-RING" there or any reputable parts shop.

    next.. GET A PAPER GASKET. One for a 1980 anything chevy v6 will work, but you can make your own. WHY? You should DOUBLE GASKET this seal. I do on all the 60V6s I've ever touched.

    You cannot reach the O-ring on the drive gear due to clearance on this motor (91-95 for sure) You must make the clearance.

    CLEARANCING HEAD: I do not like hacking the head completely, so instead I removing maybe 1/4 inch of material with a hacksaw blade from the area right above the seal. This leaves the bolt from the lower intake functional, but thins the tab of metal hanging below it. You will need to remove a little of the very lowest portion of the bolt's hole.

    CLEARANCING OIL GEAR:Next, I recess the "freeze-plug" type cover in the center of the drive-gear by tapping it down from above with a couple linked 3/8" extensions, turning it (or moving the extension) so the plug moves uniformly. Using the hacksaw blade again, I notch into the top of the drive-gear level with the top of the recessed cap. Cut about 1/4 of the radius, and a quick tap with a screwdriver will pop the cut section off. hack the edges clean, and even sand to de-bur so you don't damage the new o-ring.

    The gear should lift high enough to have the bottom of the O-ring at or above the level of the block. Cut or break the old ring out. Grease or oil the new ring and the drive-gear cap (I prefer dielectric grease) and slip it over the cap, stretching it over and sliding it down until in position. (note that I used some plastic coated wiring to drag it) Degrease the area and get the paper gasket. Cut the paper gasket and rub it with a RTV sealant. wrap it around the oil drive, make sure it is straight and slam that oil-drive gear home and bolt it down.

    image album of what I did:
    http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...20drive%20fix/
    This is interesting. I tried to do the oring a few years ago and couldn't get the shaft out because it was hitting the head. Ground the lip holding the freeze plug cap down to get some clearance but couldn't grind enough to clear and the cap popped off. Ended up jb welding the cap back on and rtv'ing the shaft instead of replacing the oring. Its held up ok so far but I never felt comfortable with the "repair". Not sure how all you guys are getting the shaft out without grinding something. Been tempted to redo it but too much work. Would like to see your pics but link isn't working. Can you repost? Thanks

    Dave
    93 Lumina Z34

  13. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by dtom4 View Post
    This is interesting. I tried to do the oring a few years ago and couldn't get the shaft out because it was hitting the head. Ground the lip holding the freeze plug cap down to get some clearance but couldn't grind enough to clear and the cap popped off. Ended up jb welding the cap back on and rtv'ing the shaft instead of replacing the oring. Its held up ok so far but I never felt comfortable with the "repair". Not sure how all you guys are getting the shaft out without grinding something. Been tempted to redo it but too much work. Would like to see your pics but link isn't working. Can you repost? Thanks

    Dave
    93 Lumina Z34
    thanks. Fixed!


    BUILDER AND DESTROYER OF FINE(?) AMERICAN CARS.

  14. #43
    Did mine last monday and followed Ken's instructions. Also had to pull the crossover. Easy way to do it, pull the driver side fan and bend the air box mount tab down to easily pull the pipe out.

    Cracked about a 1/4 of the tab off the top of the gear. Took a few minutes to slide the o-ring on. BOIL IT IN WATER!! Loosens it perfectly.

    OH YEAH! Crossover nuts..... Torque is 18 ft./ lbs. Thank you 60degreev6.com.
    1999 Buick Regal GS

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  15. #44

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    Going to be doing this in the near future. It has been a long time since I have messed with the throttle body. Do I need a throttle body gasket for this?

  16. #45
    RobertISaar's Avatar
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    perferably. you really don't want vacuum leaks. not sure how will silicone would work here.
    King of Code
    1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E... for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!



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