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  1. #1

    3100 over heating

    Is there any way for me to test my radiatoar flow? I have been having an aver heating problem for a little while so I took my thermo out so I could run it for now until I figure what's wrong. Well the funny thing is that even with no thermo it still gets warm, no where near where it should but it is not dead flat cold either. If I have to sit with it running for a few min it heats up too (even without the thermo). I have changed the water pump too. Anyone have any ideas other than the radiator?

  2. #2

    3100 over heating

    put a thermostat back in....if nothing else get a 160 stat. How hot does it get? Are you just looking at the gage? What kind of car?
    Yeah, it's still on the road. 219,982 mi

  3. #3

    3100 over heating

    wrong mix of coolant/water? or is it definately a flow issue? can you see into the radiator at the tubes inside? lots of crud?

  4. #4

    3100 over heating

    Maybe you have air in the system. Did you bleed the t-stat housing? Maybe you got air in the system when you changed the water pump.
    <br />[size=7pt]2003 Impala LS&nbsp; _&nbsp; Series II 3800 _ Completely stock with 5x,xxx miles[/size]<br />Leather and roof, clean as a whistle.<br />

  5. #5

    3100 over heating

    Perhaps ure radiator cap needs replacing. When I would idle in traffic last summer, it would heat up to 3/4. :shock: Replaced the radiator cap the next day and problem solved.
    Paul<br />2002 Chevy Camaro SS<br />1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass<br /><br />Http://<br /><br />[quote author=Brian P link=topic=63948.msg779619#msg779619 date=1194535851]<br />I&#39;m a ricer<br />[/quote]

  6. #6

    3100 over heating

    The sensor for the gauge is brand new and it is registering below the first line but it will creep all the way to almost the red if I sit to long. Sometimes it does it when I am driving too but that is rare. Ok cap is brand new, yes I bled the system and installed a prestone flush kit and ran the prestone radiator cleaner through it. The low coolant light comes on when I first start it but it is not low when I check it cold. The other wierd thing is that I have seen it completely flatten the top radiater hose with suction. as if the blockage was not in the radiator but rather in the engine somewhere. Oh the car is a '95 GPSE

  7. #7

    3100 over heating

    Definately put the t-stat back in. Without a t-stat the coolant is always flowing, however, it then does not stay in the radiator long enough for it to cool off so basically you are slowly making the water/coolant hotter and hotter until you overheat the engine (this is accellerated when your not moving because of lack of air-flow). My 3100 has a very similar problem. It will climb to from 190 (normal op temp) to 215-30 (a little too hot - 5/8ths way up the dial) it will stay there until the rpms go over 3000 or you start moving faster. I have tried everything and ran straight water last summer and it ran cooler (witch doesnt make any sense).

    Sorry im not much help on this, these 3100s have picky cooling systems
    1994, 3100 V6, Pontiac Grand Prix SE, 188,000 Miles

  8. #8

    3100 over heating

    i don't think the coolant really has to stay in the radiator a certain amount of time in order to cool enough before it enters the engine again. the thermostat in my Cutlass is stuck open right now. on the highway it won't go over 1/4 way up, and in town it won't go above 1/2 way up on the gauge. i could be wrong, but that's the way it is on my car. i would definately replace the thermostat tho. i'm getting really crappy gas mileage with the thermostat stuck open.

  9. #9

    3100 over heating

    The problem is that is I put the thermo back in it over heats. i mean that it will go all the way to just before the red and stay there and then if I am lucky what ever it is will let it start flowing again and go down. Do you guys know any part number for the lower temp thermos. and what brands. This is really being a pain in the ass at this point because I have already had to pull my top end off twice in the last six months (once for the IMG and once to replace the lifters that colapsed when the IMG went)

  10. #10

    3100 over heating

    It seems to me that your coolant passage way inside your engine has crud/gunk in it and blocking the coolant flow. Your radiator itself might be clogged up.

    I would get this coolant service flush kit made by prestone. It has a T-adapter and and part where you can connect your garden hose, etc. Get a large drain container and radiator coolant flush solution.

    What I would do in your case is that right after driving the vehicle, I would drain the coolant by removing the lower large coolant hose. You might want to wear a long rubber gloves. Let it drain and then open the drain plug on the radiator to further empty the radiator. Let the engine cool down for 60 minutes or more.

    Remove both large hoses and check the hole for the coolant passage way in the engine block and clean it if there are crud/gunk. Once the engine has cooled down, I would put a T-adapter to the hose going to the T-stat and run the garden hose and let it flush any crud/gunk.

    Put everything back in and pour the radiator coolant flush solution and top it off with water and bleed any air. The instruction say to drive the vehicle around or in the highway for an hour or so. Right after driving it, drain the radiator again. Let it cool down. Put in the right mixture of water/coolant.
    1999 Dodge Truck RAM 1500 1/2 ton 4WD V8 360 Z 5.9L SFI QUAD CAB Sport Ed<br />1999 HONDA TRUCK PASSPORT 4WD V6 03165 3.2L MFI<br />1997 MERCURY SABLE 6 Cylinders 182 U 3.0L SFI<br />1994 PONTIAC GRAND AM L4 138 3 2.3L MFI SOHC QUAD<br />1990 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS V6 191 T 3.1L MFI<br />1981 MERCEDES BENZ 240D 4 Cylinders 02399 2.4L DIESEL

  11. #11

    3100 over heating

    LOL, some one is not reading the topic. I have already installed the kit and followed all the instuctions . I have run a bottle of radiator flush as well as a bottle of radiator clearner (had it in for 3 days) and got a lot of gunk out but something still seems to be clogged. Does anyone know where it would most likely to be clogged up in the engine? I was thinking the radiator but like I said before it will accually collapse the larger return hose to the radiator so it must be flowing throught the radiator channels.

  12. #12

    3100 over heating

    If you leave your engine running at IDLE, does the radiator fan kicks in and at what temperature?

    If your lower radiator hose collapses, it will restrict the flow of coolant from the radiator into the engine. This can happen if the reinforcing spring inside the hose is missing or damaged. So, it is time to replace your lower radiator hose.
    1999 Dodge Truck RAM 1500 1/2 ton 4WD V8 360 Z 5.9L SFI QUAD CAB Sport Ed<br />1999 HONDA TRUCK PASSPORT 4WD V6 03165 3.2L MFI<br />1997 MERCURY SABLE 6 Cylinders 182 U 3.0L SFI<br />1994 PONTIAC GRAND AM L4 138 3 2.3L MFI SOHC QUAD<br />1990 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS V6 191 T 3.1L MFI<br />1981 MERCEDES BENZ 240D 4 Cylinders 02399 2.4L DIESEL

  13. #13

    3100 over heating

    It is the upper hose on the driver side that is collapsing. I thought that was the return hose but it is also why I was thinking that there is a blockage somewhere else in the motor. The fans don't kick on which is really a pain. I don't know if it is the sensor or the relays but I am gonna be hooking up a switch so I can turn them on manually.

  14. #14

    3100 over heating

    Remember the fans don't turn on until 220* and 227* (or thereabouts) so make sure you aren't trying to get them to turn on too soon. Josh, the rad. is actually supposed to act as a heat exchanger. It can't acquire the max amount of heat from the coolant if it doesn't move slowly (or stop) in it. That's why we have T-stats that open and close. To move different columns of coolant into and out of the radiator. If the upper hose is collapsing I would take a long look at the heater core or a blocked passage in the engine somewhere. A lower temp T-stat will piss off the computer because it expects higher coolant temps. Don't cut off my legs if you have answered this already, but did you replace the stat?? If not, do that, it could also be air like was stated before, make sure you are bleeding the system right.
    Sonic Yellow Snow Cone<br />My WRX pics<br />My Mods

  15. #15

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    3100 over heating

    the fan should be kicking on ariund 215-220 degree,s if not then you have either 1. bad relay, 2. burned up fan cooling motor, 3. bad coolign fan temp sensor, or 4. break in wires circuit somewhere or bad plug connection.

    car will get hot low speed and idling, it is normal
    thermostats partially restrict coolant flow through the system at all temps above the rated opening temp of the thermostat, under that temp then the thermostat completely blocks the flow of coolant in order to help the engine warm up quickly to operating temps so that it may burn fuel most efficiently and so the cat converter can remove gases most efficiently too(less exhaust emissions nox2)

    if the radiator is full of crud and needs rodded out or replaced then the car woudl be hot at all vehicle speeds regardless of how much air is moving through the radiator, also same if the water pump is failing or if a hose or line is restricted

    cooling system in good shape will get hot at lower vehicle speeds and cool down qite a bit at higher vehicle speeds.

    radiator cap allows the system to build up pressure to 15 or 16lbs, this pressure helps the fluids to cool the system, normally pressure produces heat but not in a cooling system,
    water has better cooling properties than antifreeze, antifreeze helps prevent freezing, not overheating, in the summer time you want more water than ethylene glycol in your system, water removes heat more efficiently than the glycol, by far

    good luck

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