LQ1 Power Steering Hose Replacement

[Galaxie500XL]

Finally found the source of the power steering leak on my '95 LQ1 Cutlass, it's definitely the pressure hose..

A couple of questions, I've searched the archives, and this looks like a fairly unpleasant job...


1. It looks like the combination of having an LQ1 and an automatic transmission makes this a tougher job..anyone found a good way to get to the fittings on the rack short of following the FSM, and dropping the subframe? I saw the recommendation of cutting the line, and using a socket, but it really doesn't look like I'd be able to get a 18mm socket and wrench on that without dropping the subframe..

2. Would it make sense while I'm struggling to replace the pressure hose, to go ahead and replace the return hose at the same time?

Any suggestions or tricks on how to best go about replacing these lines is very much appreciated...

[GOT2B GM]

I was able to use a cut down 18mm wrench to remove it.

[White93z34]

I done this before and TBH its WAY easier to just drop the rear of the subframe (disconnect steering shaft pinch bolt though!!!!!! 11mm)

my original was kinda rusty and I cut the line and used a 18mm socket to get at it.

[Galaxie500XL]

Good suggestions...I may be lucky on getting the fitting loose, as I had the transmission rebuilt last summer, and the shop would have had to disconnect the lines while doing that work...in fact, I strongly suspect that's where the leak began, them pulling and tugging on the line.

I have jackstands, and a hydraulic floor jack...so all I need to do is loosen the front subframe bolts, remove the rear ones, and make sure to disconnect the steering shaft first? That doesn't sound so bad...

[Schurkey]

2. Would it make sense while I'm struggling to replace the pressure hose, to go ahead and replace the return hose at the same time?

Absolutely. The hose cold-flows under the clamps; the connection becomes loose not because the clamp loosened, but because the hose wall thickness is reduced.

The next thing that happens is that it dribbles, followed shortly after by popping off completely especially if the weather turns nasty cold.

Use new POWER STEERING hose, (most fuel hose is NOT SUITABLE due to temperature and chemical compatibility issues) use GOOD clamps (not the cheapass common worm-drive Breeze style), and don't over-tighten. Some folks double-clamp the hose. That shouldn't be needed...but that doesn't stop an extremist.

While you're in there, be sure the power steering "cooler" (a steel tube that zig-zags around the cradle) isn't kinked or dented/restricted.

[GnatGoSplat]

I have jackstands, and a hydraulic floor jack...so all I need to do is loosen the front subframe bolts, remove the rear ones, and make sure to disconnect the steering shaft first? That doesn't sound so bad...

Yep, that's pretty much how I did it. I remember it did take up an entire afternoon, maybe some of the evening, and also my subframe didn't want to drop much due to the exhaust so I had to remove a bunch of exhaust hangers. So I would say it's "take all day" unpleasant, but not "take all week" unpleasant!

I got my replacement power steering line from O'Reillys. They sold me the entire complete assembly with the hose pre-crimped onto metal lines. It's not the cheapest way to go, but probably saves a bit of time.

[Schurkey]

I got my replacement power steering line from O'Reillys. They sold me the entire complete assembly with the hose pre-crimped onto metal lines. It's not the cheapest way to go, but probably saves a bit of time.

Pressure or return hose???

Pressure hoses are typically sold specific to the vehicle; factory-crimped onto metal ends is the normal way to buy them.

Return hoses are typically sold in bulk, either by the box of ten or twenty feet, or "by-the-foot" from a big spool. The hose is cut to fit and then installer-clamped to the existing metal tubes. Low pressure (but high heat) so no need for fancy crimps. If you bought a return hose factory-crimped to metal ends--I'd be surprised.

[GnatGoSplat]

Pressure hose. I thought we were talking about a leaky pressure hose here. My apologies if I misunderstood!
Yeah, my return hose is clamped, but I didn't have to replace it.

[Galaxie500XL]

The pressure hose is the one leaking, but I'm figuring to replace both while I'm at it. As an extra reward, my power steering pulley broke today...and the flange broke using the removal tool...so now I've got a pump with a ring of metal, and no pulley on it. Fortunately, I still had my old NV7 pump...noisy, but at least the car can be driven home...had to replace the pump in the parking lot at work.

Any ideas on how to get the remains of the pulley off of the shaft when the flange is broken off?

Also, anyone know where I can find a decent NV7 (variable effort steering) pump WITH the EVO pintle included? They were rare to begin with, only used in 94-95 on LQ1 Grand Prix, and Cutlass Supremes...pretty hard to find.

[GTP091]

Just before I started a new thread I did a search and found you have exactly the same issue as I do. Went to start it up and it pissed all the fluid out. I put the car up on jack stands and it looks like my high pressure PS line is leaking I think where the lower crimp is. the loom cover hides it well, bastard... I know it's the high pressure as there's fluid everywhere. Looks like we'll both be doing this fix at the same time. Luckily (or unluckily) I just had the subframe dropped about 8 mths ago to do the coilovers and suspension overhaul. Should be easy enough to drop the frame on it and replace. I guess we'll see when we get in there? There's no way I'm going to try to replace without dropping the frame. I can barely get a light to shine up there. Think the dealer will still have the lines?? rockauto does.

[Addicted To Boost]

I just removed my airbox and did it from above. It's hard to access with an auto, so I just cut the line and put an 18mm socket on it. That method was MUCH quicker than trying to fight with a combination wrench on it.

[GTP091]

I just removed my airbox and did it from above. It's hard to access with an auto, so I just cut the line and put an 18mm socket on it. That method was MUCH quicker than trying to fight with a combination wrench on it.

I came to the same conclusion after lowering the subframe tonight. there is just no room to get anything in there. I couldn't even get in to cut the line and stick a socket on from below. CAI is coming off tomorrow night after that it's a clear shot with a 18mm wrench. My only question for you guys now is which is the high pressure line? I tried to trace it with my fingers but it goes behind the rack and is to far to reach. I hooked a wire around it to follow it but a clamp is in the way. I'm thinking the top line closest to the steering shaft but my service manual shows it's the lower on a 3.1 (3.4 view is not labelled-thanks GM) and they should be the same I would think.

[GTP091]

on another note GM dealer said the line is discontinued and was listed @ $300. I told him roackauto had it for $35 + shipping in ACdelco, he didn't have much to say other than 'well that's good'.

[Galaxie500XL]

I got mine from Advance Auto..it was $18.99 for the pressure hose...but then again, the NV7 pressure hose is slightly different on the pump end than the standard hose.

on another note GM dealer said the line is discontinued and was listed @ $300. I told him roackauto had it for $35 + shipping in ACdelco, he didn't have much to say other than 'well that's good'.

[GTP091]

I got mine from Advance Auto..it was $18.99 for the pressure hose...but then again, the NV7 pressure hose is slightly different on the pump end than the standard hose.

I cut the line off with a dremel cutoff disc using the extension from underneath. hacksaw blade would have taken a full day with the angle it is. The best angle I had still left a 1" nub of pipe sticking out which will definitely get in the way of putting a socket on there. I'll try and dremel the rest off from above when I try again.
The leak was a pinhole in the rubber hose. It looks like a bulge when bent; maybe the cords broke and wore a soft spot and eventually busted; that's what im going with anyway.
A wrench will not work, to tight and bad angle from above and below. it'll just strip and then i'll be really f#$%^ed. Once I did get a get bite with a 18mm wrench but just about shit myself trying to loosen it. no go. soaked in pb blaster overnight.

I'll buy a 18mm socket tomorrow and try it again. all my socket sets skip 18mm? WTF is that about.

how's yours coming along ?

Mike