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Thread: Rear Brake question

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    Rear Brake question

    So I know that to get the piston back in to the rear calipers, they have to be threaded in with a special tool.
    Question I have is, do both sides have to be turned to the right (clockwise) or do they alternate from each side (one side clockwise, the other counter)?

    If they alternate, which side goes which way?

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    95 vert's Avatar

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    Both clockwise. Push in as you turn

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    TheDeacon (01-24-2012)

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheDeacon View Post
    So I know that to get the piston back in to the rear calipers, they have to be threaded in with a special tool.
    Question I have is, do both sides have to be turned to the right (clockwise) or do they alternate from each side (one side clockwise, the other counter)?

    If they alternate, which side goes which way?
    WHAT YEAR?

    The first design caliper--to at least '93--it is MUCH easier to pull one nut and one washer on the back of the caliper, remove the park brake cable lever--and then squeeze the piston STRAIGHT IN.

    The park brake shaft will spin instead of the piston. WAY EASIER.

    Re-connect the park brake cable lever, install washer and nut just like they were before. Done.

    This "may" work for the later caliper--I've never dicked with the newer ones.
    "The most negative fricken troll ever." --Bee Twenty

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    95 vert's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
    WHAT YEAR?

    The first design caliper--to at least '93--it is MUCH easier to pull one nut and one washer on the back of the caliper, remove the park brake cable lever--and then squeeze the piston STRAIGHT IN.

    The park brake shaft will spin instead of the piston. WAY EASIER.

    Re-connect the park brake cable lever, install washer and nut just like they were before. Done.

    This "may" work for the later caliper--I've never dicked with the newer ones.
    There is a chance you will cause a fluid leak by removing the lever and knock the park brake out of adjustment.
    Push and turn can't be harder to do. Even if you don't have the "special tool". A pair on needle nose pliers works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
    WHAT YEAR?

    The first design caliper--to at least '93--it is MUCH easier to pull one nut and one washer on the back of the caliper, remove the park brake cable lever--and then squeeze the piston STRAIGHT IN.

    The park brake shaft will spin instead of the piston. WAY EASIER.

    Re-connect the park brake cable lever, install washer and nut just like they were before. Done.

    This "may" work for the later caliper--I've never dicked with the newer ones.
    The vehicle in question is a 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE, 3.1

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    I would highly recommend one of those brake caliper tool sets that will rotate and push the caliper piston in at the same time. It's awesome. I got it for $10 from Harbor Freight when it was on sale. I couldn't find it on the website, but if you have a local store, it's worth looking for. Way better than that stupid cube (though I have one of those too).

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    Ive always used pliers and a screwdriver
    Jay

    1994 Oldsmobile Cultass Supreme SL
    -Modded
    1995 Chevy K1500 350c.i. 5spd Z71
    -Modded

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    Quote Originally Posted by 19Cutlass94 View Post
    Ive always used pliers and a screwdriver
    Precisely what I've always done. 248k miles and my original rear brakes are working just fine...
    1995 Buick Regal GS(X) - Heavily modified. /modlist





  10. #9
    Autozone rents that tool in their loaner program. easy to use!


    BUILDER AND DESTROYER OF FINE(?) AMERICAN CARS.

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