I'm replacing the drivers side wheel bearing and ball joint tomorrow. I've replaced ball joints before but never on a W body...is there anything out of the ordinary I should be prepared for before I dive in?
I don't know if it's ever been replaced before so it's probably still riveted in. What's the most effective tool to use to kill the rivets? I'm doing it in the shop at school so it's likely we have whatever it is.
'96 Pontiac Grand Prix SE coupe. 3100, stock until something breaks.
Grind away the head of the rivet
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Originally Posted by BXX
Al is a big sexy stud
brake (01-16-2012)
so shall it be done! thanks.
'96 Pontiac Grand Prix SE coupe. 3100, stock until something breaks.
it must have been replaced before because it was bolted in. they were riveted from the factory, weren't they? i knew the pass. side ball joint had been done before but had no idea about this one. must have been a while ago because i know the owner that had it for 2 years previous to me taking ownership
'96 Pontiac Grand Prix SE coupe. 3100, stock until something breaks.
Bolted = replaced. You got lucky, not that those tiny little rivets are that hard to get out. I usually just take my sharpest chisel bit on my air hammer and BAM rivet no more. Switch to the punch tip and bingo bango ball joint is out.
1991 Buick Regal GS - 121k - 3800 SI - 440T4/4T60 - White/Silver Two-Tone - Grey Sport Interior *DEAD*
1991 Chevrolet Lumina Euro 3.1 - 116k - 3.1 - 440T4/4T60 - White - Blue Interior *SOLD*
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS - 180k - 3100 - 4T60-E - Torch Red - Grey Interior *TRADED*
2002 Pontiac Grand Prix SE - 195k - 3100 - 4T65-E - Teal - Charcoal Interior *SOLD*
1993 Chevrolet Caprice Classic - 189k - 5.0 - 700R4 - Maroon - Maroon Interior
brake (01-17-2012)
I will do that the next time I run into a similar ball joint setup.
'96 Pontiac Grand Prix SE coupe. 3100, stock until something breaks.
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