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Thread: Did Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints-err, Ball Joint.

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    Did Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints-err, Ball Joint.

    My 1993 Cutlass Convertible has to have ball joints and tie rod ends to pass inspection. I did the tie rod ends and driver's side ball joint without a problem. Ball joint on the passenger side had 4 thick rivets holding it on whereas the driver's side had four bolts. I broke 5 Black and Decker drill bits trying to drill the rivets out (I did get two of them drilled out). Picked up a Titanium drill bit tonight that I'm hoping will do the job. Any idea why GM would rivet ball joints in knowing that they would need replaced at some point??

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    1990lumina's Avatar

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    Cheaper to manufacture
    Jeff L. :: 2nd Canadian to win COTM The Preservation for POS W-bodies Canada Chapter
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    19Cutlass94's Avatar

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    Your lucky these ones are riveted... some of the newer cars you have to replace the whole lower control arm to change the ball joint..
    Jay

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    Replacing the control arm is easier than pressing in a ball joint

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    Forum Moderator GOT2B GM's Avatar
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    I just use a grinder and knock the heads of the rivets off with that
    Matt Shantz


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    Quote Originally Posted by GOT2B GM View Post
    I just use a grinder and knock the heads of the rivets off with that

    Easiest way to do it. It took me a couple days to do mine as well.
    http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr118/jfleck91/untitled-1.jpg


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    Yeah, I was wishing that I had a grinder or something else to use. The titanium drill bit was about as useless as the other drill bits. I ended up hammering a flat head screwdriver onto the side that had the rivets drilled out and prying down until I broke the ball joint off the car. I then used a hammer to knock the two broken rivets out. I will never use a drill in this situation again. Headed to the alignment shop tomorrow.

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