Upgrade Time! Help?

[xtremerevolution]

I understand building your own box and purchasing components seperately will always generally put out the best overall sound, however would something like this be a great deal if in reality I dont have a immense amount of cash to drop right now on a subwoofer, another amplifier and the costs to build a sub enclosure?

For $80 it seems like a steal, those Bazooka tubes with 8" woofers cost upwards of $150, and it says this usually retails at $250. It also provides necessary cables.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=269-130

Those aren't very good subs. Pmwin has one of those in a 12" model and I could only make it sound decent in a large-ish vented box. The sub box is crucial to how the sub will sound. Prefabbed boxes should be avoided and used as an absolute last resort.

It seems like a great deal, but the difference between that and the sub I listed is like night and day.

You don't need an immense amount of money. You need a sheet of mdf which is $32, some wood glue, and clamps or screws to build a basic box. That, or a friend who has the ability to make you that box.

Do this right the first time and you'll be glad you did. Half-ass it now and you'll remember these words later on. You'd be better off saving your money and completing the system later than cheaping out just to get it done asap, even if it means buying this sub and having it sit there for a month or two till you get the funds for an amp and a box.

If you were closer and could help, I would build you one free of charge aside from the cost of materials.

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

[Rick]

Those aren't very good subs. Pmwin has one of those in a 12" model and I could only make it sound decent in a large-ish vented box. The sub box is crucial to how the sub will sound. Prefabbed boxes should be avoided and used as an absolute last resort.

It seems like a great deal, but the difference between that and the sub I listed is like night and day.

You don't need an immense amount of money. You need a sheet of mdf which is $32, some wood glue, and clamps or screws to build a basic box. That, or a friend who has the ability to make you that box.

Do this right the first time and you'll be glad you did. Half-ass it now and you'll remember these words later on. You'd be better off saving your money and completing the system later than cheaping out just to get it done asap, even if it means buying this sub and having it sit there for a month or two till you get the funds for an amp and a box.

If you were closer and could help, I would build you one free of charge aside from the cost of materials.

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

Im sure I would be manageable to build my own box, if you were maybe able to help me with the layout and dimensions because im hold when it comes to that. Im sure if me and my Dad set out a day it could be done, I can imagine if we built our finished basement a sub box cannot be too much more difficult.

Im in the talks with my friend and seeing if he would perhaps want to look at getting (2) of the woofers you listed as then shipping would be free, only issue he has is that he has a truck and he has to measure available room in the cab, specifically the area in-between the two seats in the back.

So essentially, total construction cost for the box would be lets say $50 Max, if I can get my friend to go half in on the woofer that would be $70 after tax, then an amplifier, which im not too sure on about the costs as I haven't done any looking yet.

So would the ballpark figure be around $250? Another question is on my stereo I only have (1) RCA Output, how would I work that?

[xtremerevolution]

Im sure I would be manageable to build my own box, if you were maybe able to help me with the layout and dimensions because im hold when it comes to that. Im sure if me and my Dad set out a day it could be done, I can imagine if we built our finished basement a sub box cannot be too much more difficult.

Im in the talks with my friend and seeing if he would perhaps want to look at getting (2) of the woofers you listed as then shipping would be free, only issue he has is that he has a truck and he has to measure available room in the cab, specifically the area in-between the two seats in the back.

So essentially, total construction cost for the box would be lets say $50 Max, if I can get my friend to go half in on the woofer that would be $70 after tax, then an amplifier, which im not too sure on about the costs as I haven't done any looking yet.

So would the ballpark figure be around $250? Another question is on my stereo I only have (1) RCA Output, how would I work that?

Back when I posted frequently on diyma.com, I had a 31 page thread designing sub boxes for people that suited their specific car and its cabin gain function, listening preference, and space requirements based on the specific subs they needed a box designed for. I did it all for free and would be more than happy to do it again. I can get you exact cut spec dimensions.

You can build a box in a few hours. I can walk you through the entire process over the phone.

Have your friend make the measurements and I can tell him if they'll work in his space requirements or not.

A 8x4 foot MDF board is $32 in my area. Not sure how much it is where you are. Figure a bit for wood glue, and assuming you have clamps, all you need is some carpeting:

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...carpet&x=0&y=0

$250 would be about right for some good equipment, and that's on the fairly cheap side.

I knew you'd ask about the whole having only one RCA output. You'll need two of these. Doesn't have to be these exact ones, but something with identical connections:

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-ILJRY-...4798411&sr=8-3

[Rick]

Back when I posted frequently on diyma.com, I had a 31 page thread designing sub boxes for people that suited their specific car and its cabin gain function, listening preference, and space requirements based on the specific subs they needed a box designed for. I did it all for free and would be more than happy to do it again. I can get you exact cut spec dimensions.

You can build a box in a few hours. I can walk you through the entire process over the phone.

Have your friend make the measurements and I can tell him if they'll work in his space requirements or not.

A 8x4 foot MDF board is $32 in my area. Not sure how much it is where you are. Figure a bit for wood glue, and assuming you have clamps, all you need is some carpeting:

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...carpet&x=0&y=0

$250 would be about right for some good equipment, and that's on the fairly cheap side.

I knew you'd ask about the whole having only one RCA output. You'll need two of these. Doesn't have to be these exact ones, but something with identical connections:

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-ILJRY-...4798411&sr=8-3

That sounds great, and ill try to keep up with my friend, im sure he could get the dimensions for it by New Years. Right now I have $206 in cash, around $180 in addition to the $170 from eBay sales. So in the area of $375 minus the amplifier, wire and distribution box thats around $3000. I still need to purchase the Polk Speakers, so minus $102. Around $200 left, need to purchase sound deadening material. Debating on going with RAAMAT or eDead80, im waiting on the owner of RAAMAT to return from vacation to reply to my email to give me a rough price quote and told me he could help me over the phone with advice and install if I need it. Sounds like a very caring owner, definitely a very quick response time and relaxed conversation keeping it more personal feeling than large corporate feeling where everything is very serious. I have a feeling that RAAMAT will be in the price range of $130-$150 depending on how much shipping is, compared to eDead80 being in-between a half to a third of the price.

I probably could wait until March and maybe ask for a nice amplifier, woofer, and costs to build a custom box for my 18th birthday. I had a feeling they made a RCA adapter plug, that will be useful.

[Rick]

If using one, I would find something that will do at least 400W rms @ 2ohms. If using two, at least 800W @ 1ohm. Either way, the amp has to be a quality amp, CEA certified.

At that price, I would buy one or two even if you don't have an amp ready to use them. The deal is pretty awesome. Better yet, if you're on a budget, find a friend who needs one and split the cost on two so you don't pay shipping.

If I had to name a comparable sub, I would compare one of these to an Alpine R12. I think they would be head to head in performance and sound.

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

Do you think the Pioneer 5400 would be sufficient to power the subwoofer? I ended up getting a pair of Alpine 510 for the doors for Christmas, so would that amplifier be best to power those or a subwoofer do you think?

[xtremerevolution]

That sounds great, and ill try to keep up with my friend, im sure he could get the dimensions for it by New Years. Right now I have $206 in cash, around $180 in addition to the $170 from eBay sales. So in the area of $375 minus the amplifier, wire and distribution box thats around $3000. I still need to purchase the Polk Speakers, so minus $102. Around $200 left, need to purchase sound deadening material. Debating on going with RAAMAT or eDead80, im waiting on the owner of RAAMAT to return from vacation to reply to my email to give me a rough price quote and told me he could help me over the phone with advice and install if I need it. Sounds like a very caring owner, definitely a very quick response time and relaxed conversation keeping it more personal feeling than large corporate feeling where everything is very serious. I have a feeling that RAAMAT will be in the price range of $130-$150 depending on how much shipping is, compared to eDead80 being in-between a half to a third of the price.

I probably could wait until March and maybe ask for a nice amplifier, woofer, and costs to build a custom box for my 18th birthday. I had a feeling they made a RCA adapter plug, that will be useful.

RAAMAT will be better no doubt. The owner will even tell you its better, and he's right. Its more of a question of what you can afford and whether the money can be better spent on different components. What will give you better results; spending $70 more on deadening, or buying a subwoofer (or a better amp)? I honestly don't think the difference will be worth the money given your other components. I'm not trying to be a snob, but these aren't very high end parts you're using, yet you're thinking of getting high end deadening. Its like putting drag slicks on a n/a honda civic. All I'm saying is, ask yourself if that money could be better spent. I'm using eDead40 with multiple layers and I'm quite happy with the results.

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

[xtremerevolution]

Do you think the Pioneer 5400 would be sufficient to power the subwoofer? I ended up getting a pair of Alpine 510 for the doors for Christmas, so would that amplifier be best to power those or a subwoofer do you think?

That amp would be very suitable if not perfect for your door speakers, but not for the sub. That amp is only 4ohm stable. The sub runs at a 2ohm load. Even if it was stable, its on the low side of what I'd recommend for power. Ideally, you would find a used Kenwood KAC-9103D, 9104D, or 9105D. Get at least 400W RMS at 2ohm for the sub.

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

[Rick]

Thats true, and sometimes its a good reminder to not go very high end on one area and then lower end on the rest. I seem to forget a lot of the same basic rules when I gave advise for building gaming computers...its the same as running a Crossfire 4870 with a single core Athlon, its just not smart. So, thanks for the reality check. I actually hooked up the speakers shortly to the receiver and they are noticeably better than the old components. Can only imagine after they are hooked up to the amp.

This break from school has actually been quite productive. I so far have:Fixed the key lock on driver side, now can unlock and lock door from driver side. Fixed convertible top, goes up and down again perfectly. Replaced all the push-pins on the door panels with new ones. Cleaned all the crap inside of the door, gave them a thorough scrub with a damp cloth and got the massive amounts of dust that were caked on. Computer wise, got those nasty virus's off of it.

I will be getting the terminal eyelid connectors to crimp the ground wires to the car and purchasing 1" spacers for the amplifier to sit on. Also purchasing an additional 10ft speaker wire from Lowes.

So money better spent seems towards enough eDead80 for the door panels(if im getting a sub, do I need any for the trunk? better to save on shipping now than later), and a good amplifier to power the subwoofer you listed instead of going with the more expensive RAAMATT.

[xtremerevolution]

Yeah, you've got the idea. 18 gauge will be fine for the speaker wire. I deadened my trunklid and rear panel as they were rattling on hard bass beats, but I also went overboard and made the trunklid a bit heavy and had to change the notches on the trunklid springs for more tension. Might be a good idea to see what might rattle and apply accordingly.

Those door panel push-pins seem to break every time you take the door off. They seem to be a single use item, so if you need to take the doors off again, chances are you'll have to replace them again.

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

[Rick]

Yeah, you've got the idea. 18 gauge will be fine for the speaker wire. I deadened my trunklid and rear panel as they were rattling on hard bass beats, but I also went overboard and made the trunklid a bit heavy and had to change the notches on the trunklid springs for more tension. Might be a good idea to see what might rattle and apply accordingly.

Those door panel push-pins seem to break every time you take the door off. They seem to be a single use item, so if you need to take the doors off again, chances are you'll have to replace them again.

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

Yeah, I heard another spot to cushion is behind the license plate, at least my friends plate rattled like crazy before he put some form of insulation behind it. I noticed that because I put one door on wrong and had to pull the one pin out and it was almost stripped, but I had extras anyway so I still popped a new one on. Compared to the old push pins, my door literally feels like a vault when closing due to there is no more give in the door panel as if felt as if it was falling apart before.

If you didnt already here, Best Buy valued an exchange on my Headunit purchased on June 10th of 2011. Far outside their 15 day return/exchange policy on Audio equipment, I was very surprised and happy they offered me an exchange. Im probably ging to see if I can return the RCA-Speakerwire to Radioshack since I decided not to splice the wires and they appear as good as new. Thats also $20 back, so worth a try. Might also cut out a slight amount of static coming from the speakers at low volume levels when its connected only by RCA.

I am in the talks with my friend on cutting costs and we each purchase a single 400W 12" T3 to save on the shipping and plus we could build the same box, issue is he has a 2010 Lancer, which may be a problem with the headunit as I dont know if it has an RCA outputs on the back of the factory headunit.

[xtremerevolution]

There isn't an issue as to whether or not there are RCA outputs on a head unit when you run a high level to RCA converter like the ones I linked earlier. He should be just fine. In fact, some amplifiers even come with a harness that allows you to splice the high level wiring and hook it up directly into the amplifier without needing the converter.

Don't forget the port, terminals, and carpeting.

[Rick]

There isn't an issue as to whether or not there are RCA outputs on a head unit when you run a high level to RCA converter like the ones I linked earlier. He should be just fine. In fact, some amplifiers even come with a harness that allows you to splice the high level wiring and hook it up directly into the amplifier without needing the converter.

Don't forget the port, terminals, and carpeting.

I hooked my new headunit up, theres no sound still from the front? Could there be anyway the head connectors on the RCA could be BAD? This is how the system is wired...

Speaker wire runs from the speakers to the amplifier. RCA runs from AMP to receiver. No sound. There was sound however when this setup was installed...speaker wire running from speakers to amplifier. then rca runs from amp to NEAR receiver in which then a female-female coupler was used and then a male to speaker wire was used and lined into the speaker wire outputs on the receiver. That worked, but there was static.

What seems to be the true issue?

There was a setting I somehow didn't notice even though I read both manuals twice. Facepalm. It works..