strut bearing plates

[brake]

I have a 1996 Grand Prix SE coupe. 3100 knockbox.


I attempted to get an alignment and was informed I needed strut bearing plates. After much confusion and finding out that the bearings on these cars are on the bottom (I know nothing of MacPherson struts)

When it was up on the hoist and I grabbed the wheel to "steer" it, the strut was turning and visibly binding/skipping. Front end has been making a popping noise as I turn and it's got memory steer.


The confusion stems from the different names everyone seems to use for these things....I'm trying to find out exactly what parts I need. I am buying from RockAuto and it seems like you can't just get quick struts for these

The bearing is in the lower coil spring seat, correct? Making Monroe part 902994 and 902995 what I need, right?



Should I replace the cartridge and mounts while I have it apart? I will be doing the spring compressing at school in our shop hopefully....I don't want to take it apart again. Is there anything I am missing?


Sorry for basically asking to have it spelled out for me....like I said, I know nothing of strut assemblies and don't want to do this again, ever.

[brake]

for the sake of part numbers;

MONROE Part # 901921 Strut-Mate Suspension Strut Mounting Kit
Front x2

MONROE Part # 73305 Sensa-Trac Strut Cartridge (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.)
Front x2

MONROE Part # 902994 Strut-Mate Coil Spring Seat
Front Lower Left

MONROE Part # 902995 Strut-Mate Coil Spring Seat
Front Lower Right

[brake]

...I'm doing the inner tie rod ends too but that doesn't really matter much. outer ones are new.


hopefully it'll handle right by the time i'm done. thanks in advance.

[mfewtrail]

The part numbers in your first post are the correct ones for the spring seats/strut bearings(left + right). Rockauto has one side on close-out for about half the price(only a 30 day warranty, but they don't fail often) right now. That coupled w/ the 5% discount code might make them cheaper than from a parts store, even with shipping. Advance Auto has coupon codes if you can order online. You may want to search for those @ slickdeals.net and see what kind of discounts you can get. It's often about $10-20 off depending on how much you spend and you can opt to pick up your stuff at a local store.

[brake]

hey, thanks! glad i finally know exactly what part i'm talking about. the slightly more expensive one can combine shipping with the other parts i'm getting so it works out to be a little bit cheaper. getting 'em at rockauto


should I replace anything besides the mounts and cartridges along with the bearing plates?

[brake]

I have secured the facility and tools to work on the car;


Can I do these without the special W body strut replacement tools?

[ptcfast2]

I have secured the facility and tools to work on the car;


Can I do these without the special W body strut replacement tools?

To replace the bearings you will need to remove the strut from the car, so you don't need the w-body tool as you can treat it like a regular strut assembly (so basically just like the rears). Only reason the tool exists is to provide a way to change out the strut without taking apart everything each time.

I just did the bearings on mine a few months back. I also replaced the coil springs at the same time. If your springs have a bunch of miles on them get a set of Moogs from RockAuto or Amazon. Should run about 60-70 bucks or so and they make a world of difference compared to OEM ones. If you have not replaced the actual strut cartridges themselves and don't have the w-body tool now might be a good time to replace them so you don't have to buy the tool at a later date.

Make SURE you mark the location of the bearing plate, spring, and seat/insulator relative to the knuckle when you take everything apart - they need to go back on a certain way else you will have spring buckle and flex (along with much frustration trying to get it assembled correctly once again). Do them one at a time as well so you can look at the other one as a reference if you have questions. Speaking from experience here...

If you want me to get you links/part numbers for the stuff you should replace let me know. Since you are having to tear the entire strut apart now is as good a time any any to replace stuff if you have the money.

[brake]

ahh okay it was my understanding that the special tool is only used to replace the cartridge while in car. Unfortunately I don't believe I have the $$ for the springs as well. New struts are putting me around $200 which is about all I can afford this time 'round.


thanks very much my friend! I will put scribe marks (or something) into everything before it comes apart.

[ptcfast2]

ahh okay it was my understanding that the special tool is only used to replace the cartridge while in car. Unfortunately I don't believe I have the $$ for the springs as well. New struts are putting me around $200 which is about all I can afford this time 'round.


thanks very much my friend! I will put scribe marks (or something) into everything before it comes apart.

$200 for struts???? Hold on, I'm putting together a list on Amazon for you. You can get everything for about $200.

[ptcfast2]

Alright here you go: http://amzn.com/w/VU410MICKQI2 - Pricing is about $210 for everything. Make sure you order 2 cartridges though as well as 2 insulators/bumpers (the boot kit). The OEM bumpers will look like crap and they will need to be replaced - the springs come as a pair so you only need 1 order of the part number.

Advance Auto has the same items, so you can order them online so you get a lifetime warranty on them. Use coupon code VISA to save $50 off the order. Should fit within your price range I hope? I used the exact same parts in my recent rebuild of my front struts and everything worked out great.

On another note, the cartridges can be replaced without the w-body tool when off the vehicle (you'll need to improvise, but it can be done once you figure it out) but I do recommend picking up the tool if you can manage to afford it. It makes a world of difference.

[brake]

thanks....I am confused about the mounting kit, though. MONROE Part # 901921 is what I had from RockAuto...I now realize I don't actually know what is included with it and am wondering if it differs from what's on amazon (monroe 63622)


RockAuto seems to think that 63622 is just a boot kit while 901921 is the mount itself...argh.



EDIT: thanks for the links BTW, but shipping is what kills me. We don't get the Super Saver shipping in Canada and Amazon won't even ship me one of the spring seats/bearings because their supplier is international (while, the supplier for the bearing on the OTHER side of the car isnt...figure that)

[brake]

to recap - everything but the coils (they can likely be had locally substantially cheaper);

MONROE Part # 63622 Strut-Mate Strut Boot Kit x2

MONROE Part # 73305 Sensa-Trac Strut Cartridge
Special Tools are Req'd for Installation; Front x2

MONROE Part # 901921 Strut-Mate Strut Mounting Kit
Front x2

MONROE Part # 902995 Strut-Mate Strut Coil Spring Seat
Front Lower Right

MONROE Part # 902994 Strut-Mate Strut Coil Spring Seat
Front Lower Left

Does that sound right to you W body gurus?

[ptcfast2]

to recap - everything but the coils (they can likely be had locally substantially cheaper);



Does that sound right to you W body gurus?

Ah, being in Canada makes things a bit different. List looks fine to me. How many miles are on this car anyways?

[brake]

255k kilometers. That's 158k miles, give or take....it runs decently enough and as far as I can tell, the motor has never been apart. Regular maintenance for most of its life I believe. It knocks like a Jehovah but I plan to get either a donor motor for me to work on or a motor ready to drop in.

I only really bought the car so I'd have something to get me to and from school for the next year or so...I do all (most) of the work myself so labor charges don't really matter too much.

thanks again for your help, man. how long would you say the operation would take, per side, with the strut out of the car?

[ptcfast2]

255k kilometers. That's 158k miles, give or take....it runs decently enough and as far as I can tell, the motor has never been apart. Regular maintenance for most of its life I believe. It knocks like a Jehovah but I plan to get either a donor motor for me to work on or a motor ready to drop in.

I only really bought the car so I'd have something to get me to and from school for the next year or so...I do all (most) of the work myself so labor charges don't really matter too much.

thanks again for your help, man. how long would you say the operation would take, per side, with the strut out of the car?

Depends how fast you are. I'd budget 1 afternoon for each side (if the strut is already off the car) to be safe if you aren't in a shop or something (IE: Driveway). 1st day will be slower as you figure out everything, 2nd afternoon will be quicker as you know what to do. Just take your time...you don't want to have to take the strut back apart because you didn't align something right. As they always say, measure twice and cut once! The bearing plates have to face a certain way relative to the wheel well and the springs sit a certain way as well...just make sure you either take photos or mark stuff.

If you decide to replace the springs it MIGHT complicate things more as they are newer variable rate springs and don't exactly line up like the old ones you remove. Just gotta figure it out, it's like a puzzle.

Also, make SURE you buy or rent a QUALITY spring compressor. Last thing you want is a coil spring flying into your face when you take the strut apart.