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  1. #1

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    2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue

    I am new to the forum, and I may have posted this in the wrong section. I am also trying to learn how to move around on the forum. Here is my question posted in the new member section. Any help please. My wife loves this car, so I am trying to fix it before it goes to the Pull-a-Part. Thanks in advance.

    PLEASE, Help for 2001 Intrigue

    I have a 2001 Olds Intrigue. Looks like a bunch of stuff just went wrong at once. It has 215K miles on it. Is there anyone out there that has dropped the sub-frame? Are there any references or info out there on how to do this. I need to replace the water pump, valve cover gaskets, serp belt, and cross-over gaskets. I think it will be easier to drop everthing and work on it while I can easily access everything. I have access to a car lift and full auto shop, although I am not a mechanic by trade, but I have been working on cars for years. Any one, please any information. Time is a killer for me, so I would rather do things faster even if it involves something as exotic as dropping drivetrain. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Community Manager White93z34's Avatar
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    Admittedly, I don't know much about your LX5 (3.5) But I think you would be getting into far more work dropping it all out then dealing with it in the car. I would think the valve cover and crossover gaskets could be done without too much trouble from up top. I don't know much about the water pump, but i'd imagine its not too awful bad to do in car.
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  3. #3
    AL's Avatar
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    This is the procedure for removing the subframe with leaving everything else in the vehicle, just ignore the things that your removing with the subframe

    Frame Replacement

    Tools Required

    J 39580 Universal Engine Support Table

    Removal Procedure

    Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical.
    Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
    Remove the front tires and wheels. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
    Disconnect the fog lamp electrical connectors and position aside.
    Remove the radiator lower air deflector. Refer to Radiator Air Baffle Assemblies and Deflectors (Lower) Radiator Air Baffle Assemblies and Deflectors (Side) Radiator Air Baffle Assemblies and Deflectors (Air Baffle) in Engine Cooling.
    Remove the positive battery cable and retainers from the frame and position aside. Refer to Battery Positive Cable Replacement in Engine Electrical.
    Disconnect the power steering cooler pipe from the frame. Refer to Power Steering Cooler Pipe/Hose Replacement in Power Steering.
    Secure the power steering cooler.
    Remove the stabilizer shaft links and rotate the stabilizer shaft up to gain access to the power steering gear mounting bolts. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Front Suspension.
    Remove the power steering gear mounting bolts. Refer to Steering Gear Replacement in Power Steering.
    Secure the power steering gear.
    Remove the engine mount-to-frame nuts. Refer to Engine Front Mount Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.5L.
    Remove the transaxle mount-to-frame nuts. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement in Automatic Transaxle - 4T65-E.
    Disconnect both front wheel speed sensor connectors (1).
    Remove both front wheel speed harness retainers (2) from the frame and the lower control arms.
    Separate both of the lower ball joints from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Replacement in Front Suspension.
    Lower the vehicle until the frame contacts the J 39580.
    Remove and DISCARD the front frame-to-body bolts.
    Remove and DISCARD the rear frame-to-body bolts.
    Raise the vehicle in order to separate the frame from the body.
    If you are replacing the frame, remove the following components:
    Both of the lower control arms. Refer to Lower Control Arm Replacement in Front Suspension.
    The stabilizer shaft. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement in Front Suspension.
    The spacers, the upper insulator, the lower insulator, and the retainers. Refer to Front Frame Cushion or Insulator Replacement (See: Body / Frame Mount Bushing\Service and Repair\Front Frame Cushion or Insulator Replacement) and to Rear Frame Cushion or Insulator Replacement (See: Body / Frame Mount Bushing\Service and Repair\Rear Frame Cushion or Insulator Replacement).

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  4. #4
    Andrew's Avatar
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    dropping the subframe is a awful lot of work to do said repairs.
    00 GTP - mine | 05 Mariner - hers | 95 F150 - ours?

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    IMHO, an LX5 with ~215K miles and problems is likely good for one thing - a boat anchor.

    So, I suggest the following:
    http://paceperformance.com/i-6484855...ssionsnf2.html

    It was ~$2,100 including shipping to have them drop it in my garage at my house.

    I very strongly suggest that you reconsider putting money and time into an LX5 engine with ~215K miles.
    Sorry, IMHO, the shortstar is yet another classic POS engine.

    In case you were wondering what you have to look forward to with the LX5 and Intrigue, see all of the repairs done at:
    http://99intrigue.shutterfly.com/
    http://99intrigue.shutterfly.com/engineremoval

    Yea, I'd say that tracks closely with my ~120K mile 2000 Intrigue.
    Currently, I'm replacing the orig engine in my Intrigue. Like many GM alum engines, the LX5 has a tendency to blow head gaskets.


    Good Luck!
    Last edited by Cutlass350; 09-02-2011 at 03:50 AM.
    Joe
    '00 Olds Intrigue ; '94 Olds Achieva. DOHC-HO 5 Speed :-) ; '92 Olds Achieva ; 69 Firebird 350 ; '86 Mustang with 95 Cobra brakes and ABS.
    Gone, but never forgotten: '77 Cutlass 350. :-)

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Independentfool View Post
    dropping the subframe is a awful lot of work to do said repairs.
    Yup! Either dropping the sub-frame or yanking the engine is a TON OF WORK!
    Joe
    '00 Olds Intrigue ; '94 Olds Achieva. DOHC-HO 5 Speed :-) ; '92 Olds Achieva ; 69 Firebird 350 ; '86 Mustang with 95 Cobra brakes and ABS.
    Gone, but never forgotten: '77 Cutlass 350. :-)

  7. #7

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    Some quick pictures of my engine R&R







    Joe
    '00 Olds Intrigue ; '94 Olds Achieva. DOHC-HO 5 Speed :-) ; '92 Olds Achieva ; 69 Firebird 350 ; '86 Mustang with 95 Cobra brakes and ABS.
    Gone, but never forgotten: '77 Cutlass 350. :-)

  8. #8
    virtuetovice's Avatar
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    By the time you tear the engine down enough to get it out, you will have plenty of space to do the work you're talking about.
    this IS a General Motors product and the general rule is that nothing should make actual sense.
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  9. #9

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    THANKS guys!

    I think I have two general options. Do the repairs and HOPE they last until next year. I will gain experience, et cet., for under $150.00 which is not horrible. So, assuming all goes well and the repairs last until next year, any suggestions on getting a rebuilt-remanufactured engine and transmission. My second option is my plan on simply investing $4-$5K and replacing everything. Last year I replaced the tie rod ends and CV joints which made the car feel like new. I also replaced the hubs as they lasted about 200K at the time of RR. I agree that the nickle and dime stuff is very annoying, but if I can squeeze another year or so out of the old girl befoe she gets all new stuff, that will give me more than enough time to do my market research, et cet. Any ideas, vendors, et cet. Thanks again for all the help. Glad I joined.

  10. #10

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    Don't bother dropping the cradle and taking the engine out!! As everyone has said, it's way too much work. Taking it out through the top or bottom will take you a hell of a lot more time than you have. Everything can be accessed fairly easily inside the car. The link that Cutlass350 posted should be more than enough to help (nice pics btw!!).

    Worse case with the engine, you find a low mileage used one, and have a tech school put in for half price = less than $1000 for everything including their labor!!

    2001 Olds Intrigue | 1971 Olds Cutlass Supreme l 1997 Jeep GC

  11. #11
    Breakdown's Avatar
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    Mark,


    I'm not sure of your level of skill, but this is my swap thread:

    http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php...d-Prix-SE-.-.-.

    I don't have the proper skillz for this type of thing.

    If you do, and you have the patience to get a good donor, here's what I did cost wise:

    $400 for 1996 parts car, running, brakes seized, body beyond rusted out, LIM gaskets just done and same with plugs and wires 68K miles.
    $70 Transmission lines (boken while doing swap).
    -$200 after selling parts car for scrap, after 1/2 a trailer rental and gas for my buddy to take the trailer away, etc.

    $270 Total (now again, if you don't have skills, like me, you'll have to treat the hired help like kings, hopefully I treated them okay, I don't remember so well, I had a fever of 107 the night the engine went in).

    I'm was left with a 3100 series engine with 154K miles on the odometer (we scrapped that, but it was working and could have been sold).

    Chinese Matt helped me remove all of the EGR Valve, Coilpacks, ICM, and all of the extra junk for the car for future resale.

    I have all of the tails to sell or use, I have a plethora of bulbs, I have a console and trim that is in better condition than the keeper car, and if you were to get another Intrigue that was lets say in an accident or something you might end up with something like leather seats that you can spin for another $100 or so, or tires and rims that are actually worth something, you get the idea. Took me about 6 months of shopping to find this "deal."

    Best of luck with what you're doing and what you chose to do going forward.


    BREAKDOWN ABILITIES: In car mode, his engine emits vibration that causes mechanical failures in other vehicles...can speed to 200 mph...uses concussion cannon in robot mode.
    Quote Originally Posted by bigalwalker08
    Ignore 90% of the comments here but be sure to listen to Breakdown.
    Quote Originally Posted by xtremerevolution
    If it took me 7-14 hours to change an alternator, I'd set the car on fire and roll it down a hill.
    . . .then I'd set myself on fire.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greazzer View Post
    My second option is my plan on simply investing $4-$5K and replacing everything.
    No kidding!
    So far, I've bought over $3K in parts - not counting the new long block engine!

    The good news: You can replace the rack with the engine and tranny out, and the subframe still connected. YES!
    Mine had the classic morning sickness during the winter. It was a PITA to wait ~5 mins to have to drive the car. Even then, the steering was "sticky". Once the weather got better, it was perfect. Hmm, move to Southern Florida or replace the rack?

    Also, the passenger-side front brake line goes behind the steering shaft. I live in snowy New England. So, that's a great place for sand, gunk, salt, snow, etc to sit on that brake line. I don't know how that super rusty part of that brake line was holding any pressure. It what would have definitely burst in 1-2 years! Now, without an engine, transmission, rack, power booster, master cylinder, ABS, etc, there's plenty of room to work on that brake line. Although, it seems like an extreme method to replace just one brake line.


    Otherwise, the rest of the Intrigue is in pretty good shape (again, I have a new GM tranny only ~2 years old). One of the head rests for the back seat is discolored. BFD! And, the paint on the spoiler is peeling. I have a few scratches on the car. So, I'll either rattle can the spoiler, or get the whole car painted. A lot will depend on how this mega refresh of parts goes. My timeframe is to try to finish before ~Feb.

    Also, it seems like GM cheaped out (big surprise) on the flash on the ABS. So, after a while, the ABS module will have flash write errors. GM could have specified more flash, but I guess they didn't want to spend the extra ~$10. The good news is that you can remove the electronics without disconnecting the brake lines, send it to a referb place for ?$150?, get it back, put it back together, and be good for another ~10 years.
    OR, pay ~$2.5K+ and have the dealer fox it.
    Joe
    '00 Olds Intrigue ; '94 Olds Achieva. DOHC-HO 5 Speed :-) ; '92 Olds Achieva ; 69 Firebird 350 ; '86 Mustang with 95 Cobra brakes and ABS.
    Gone, but never forgotten: '77 Cutlass 350. :-)

  13. #13

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    OK Guys, I totally WHIMPED OUT !

    I just changed the water pump and RR the thermostat. BUT, made the decision to sell the 1993 Acura Legend, and take the proceeds to buy a NEW/REMAN Engine, Transmission, Steering, Ball Joints, et cet. So, getting rid of the Japanese Car and keeping some Detroit Steel. I plan on picking up a sub frame, cleaning it to near perfection, painting it, and bringing NEW life to the old girl. So, I guess, not a total whimp job. I am going to post a BRAND NEW thread about finding parts. I will post some pictures of the new thermostat and waterpump, but not too exciting. Thanks Again. You imspired me to keep the ol'e Betsy.

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    I have kept ol'e Betsy and 2 years have come and gone incredibly fast. Right now, 240K on the clock. While driving a somewhat long distance drive, it was purring along like always and then it overheated. It has never done this before while driving. It has "overheated" while sitting still, but not while cruising along. It was boiling. Long story short is that I nursed it home. No blown headgaskets from what I can tell. Since I last checked in, she's got new front brakes, new calipers, new rotors, new wheel bearing hubs, new lower control arms, et cet. She drives incredibly smooth. I got incredibly nice tires on it too. Right now, I either got a bad waterpump, bad radiator, or something else in the cooling system. And yes, the dreaded cross-over gaskets which gives me a nice leak overnight from the cooling system. We have had this car now 13 years and but for this or that maintenance or normal repair item, The 2001 Intrigue has been a pretty good car. I hate to get rid of it.

    So, does anyone know where I can buy the real shop manuals for this car? I am thinking I will have to replace a bunch of gaskets and seals and having the drivetrain out seems the overall easist way to go. I read where dropping the engine sub-frame takes just 1-2 hours. I have access to a lift. I already got new valve cover gaskets, new AC Delco Waterpump, and a few other odds and ends. If no head gasket issues present themselves, I am thinking new gaskets and a complete once over will breath another few years with Besty. My goal is 300K on the engine.

    Any leads would be helpful.

    Thanks again !

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greazzer View Post
    I have kept ol'e Betsy and 2 years have come and gone incredibly fast. Right now, 240K on the clock. While driving a somewhat long distance drive, it was purring along like always and then it overheated. It has never done this before while driving. It has "overheated" while sitting still, but not while cruising along. It was boiling.
    Huh?!?!

    Unless you have bad head gaskets that are leaking cylinder temps into the coolant system, an Olds 3.5L (shortstar) engine can not overheat. Really, really, really!
    You can take the radiator out of the car, go driving in the Nevada Desert during a very hot and sunny summer day, have the AC blasting on full, and the engine will still not overheat. Really, that's one of the tests that GM did.

    GM screwed up many many many things. But, GM also had/has some very cool technology. One was the ability of the Northstar and Shortstar engine to never overheat. The engines would go way down in power, but not over heat! They would cycle cylinders off/on to help cool the engine. Check out Wikipedia and google searches.
    BTW, GM was able to do that by having a good model of the cats inside the PCM algorithm. The big problem is really having the cats get to hot from running lean.


    My first suggestion is to test for exhaust gases in the radiator. The kits costs ~$40. Many videos on youtube.
    Then, do a compression check. A cylinder leak test is best, but requires a compressor and more a more expensive tool.
    FWIW, my engine, and many others, never threw a misfire code even with a rather bad head-gasket leak.

    Good Luck!
    Last edited by Cutlass350; 09-03-2013 at 11:42 PM.
    Joe
    '00 Olds Intrigue ; '94 Olds Achieva. DOHC-HO 5 Speed :-) ; '92 Olds Achieva ; 69 Firebird 350 ; '86 Mustang with 95 Cobra brakes and ABS.
    Gone, but never forgotten: '77 Cutlass 350. :-)

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