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  1. #1

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    Torque specs for front wheel bearing replacement

    I will be replacing a bad front Timken bearing after less than 3 thousand miles. I may have over tightened the spindle nut since my torque wrench only goes to 150. I think I remember 179 ft lbs. Then, I read a thread that said 118 is the revised torque. I looked around Timkens web site to no avail. Anyone know for sure? Also, is there a procedure- like torque so far and spin, retorque and spin? It's a 94 CS 3100. Thanks.
    1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. 3100/4t60e.

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    urbex's Avatar
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    I don't know if it's the same, but on my Lumina it said to go to 150ft lbs. I was told however that if reusing the nut you want to drop that down about 10ft lbs or so.

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    I had not considered replacing the nut, but that seems smart. My Haynes manual states 184 ft lbs. Thanks
    Last edited by DavidHowell3633; 08-11-2011 at 07:56 PM.
    1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. 3100/4t60e.

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    urbex's Avatar
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    It said in the manual I used that you HAD to, but anyone I talked to said you don't. BXX said I should just lower the torque specs by 10 ft lbs though.

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    Had to replace the nut? Probably a good idea to, like fresh intake bolts. I didn't do those either. Anyway, my book says 184 ft lbs and that's what I was going for last time. Timken is supposed to be the favored choice and that's what I am using. Just want to confirm the torque for the hub nut. Kinda surprised how much different cars vary on this specification.
    1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. 3100/4t60e.

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    urbex's Avatar
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    Yeah, I would go with whatever the book says.

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    Garrett Powered's Avatar
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    maybe you didn't have the nut tight enough? that can take out the bearing more than too tight will.. cant have any play in there so tighten the hell out of it.

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    urbex's Avatar
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    But over tightening anything is bad. Otherwise you'll lose it's effectiveness.

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    Guess I'll shell out $80 and get a torque wrench that'll tell me.
    1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. 3100/4t60e.

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    Garrett Powered's Avatar
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    I know overtightening anythings bad, but this is a 36mm with tons of threads. I just use a snap on impact with it on full high setting and run it until it stops turning. depending on the gun's max torque.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Garrett Powered View Post
    I know overtightening anythings bad, but this is a 36mm with tons of threads. I just use a snap on impact with it on full high setting and run it until it stops turning. depending on the gun's max torque.
    The exact torque spec on an ir impact gun is the second bang.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garrett Powered View Post
    I know overtightening anythings bad, but this is a 36mm with tons of threads. I just use a snap on impact with it on full high setting and run it until it stops turning. depending on the gun's max torque.

    And this is the number one reason why I have to re replace hub bearings on various cars that other techs tighten the hub nut using their impacts on various settings.

    40lbs over tighten can lead to premature bearing failure.

    Could be worse, bearings on Windstars and the like absolutely require new axle nuts and the loctite procedure to be followed properly.

    Hell, a $30 torque wrench and a new axle nut should be plenty good enough to properly tighten the axle locknut and not end up with premature failure.
    -08 Kia Spectra SX -2.0L BetaII/Auto
    -02 Buick Rendezvous CXL -3.5L LX9 Swap/4t65e

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    Quote Originally Posted by Garrett Powered View Post
    I know overtightening anythings bad, but this is a 36mm with tons of threads. I just use a snap on impact with it on full high setting and run it until it stops turning. depending on the gun's max torque.

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    I rented a KD tools torque wrench and replaced the hub bearing assembly this morning. I replaced the spindle nut. I cleaned all bolts and torques all according to specs. Took torque wrench back and heard a clunk when turning left or right. Now what can that be?
    1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. 3100/4t60e.

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