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Thread: Factory cheap alternator upgrade

  1. #46
    RobertISaar's Avatar

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    the CS130D in the 95MC lasted to ~160,000 miles and was mistakenly diagnosed(battery was ~6 years old) as a problem, replaced with ValuCrap(STUPID IDEA! SPEND THE EXTRA $10 FOR THE DURALAST WITH LIFETIME WARRANTY!), lasted less than 2 years, replaced with junkyard ACDelco, and it lives again beyond 185,000 miles.
    King of Code
    1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E... for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!


  2. #47
    AWeb80's Avatar

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    I could put a jy unit on, but with a rebuilt one, I know it'll last a while without being a question of when.

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  3. #48
    RobertISaar's Avatar

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    and while i'm thinking about it: the generator(alt in 1970?) in my dad's 70MC was original until a couple of years ago when we mistakenly replaced that as well(turns out there was a shorted circuit elsewhere).

    we have good luck with factory stuff around here, not so much with guessing what the problem is when they arise.
    King of Code
    1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E... for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!


  4. #49
    it just depends if you want a stock, or a built one that you can be proud of. there is a catalog at my local shop I go to and you can order all the good stuff and go as wild as you want to. yes this costs money, but you will not regret it if your build is a success. I have a year and $400 into my latest one. not to mention having the thing on and off the car like 5 times. and even more trips (30 minutes each way) to the shop and back.

    it was a hassle, and money was wasted, and it set me back a lot, and we tested many parts. am I glad I did it???? HELL yeah.

  5. #50
    white4d96's Avatar

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    At that point I would just spend another $100 up front to get one from a reputable company like DCPower or Mechman that's GUARANTEED to put out x amps at idle and y amps max, bench-tested before it gets put in your box (with the results) and will bolt right in.
    http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr118/jfleck91/untitled-1.jpg


  6. #51

  7. #52
    white4d96's Avatar

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    I know someone with one in a van engine bay if that counts. Next time I run into him ill grab pics.
    http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr118/jfleck91/untitled-1.jpg


  8. #53


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    Quote Originally Posted by AWeb80 View Post
    I could put a jy unit on, but with a rebuilt one, I know it'll last a while without being a question of when.
    I guess it doesn't matter too much to me. I can change my alternator in 5 minutes blind folded and all of my alternators have lasted a very long time.

    This thread was more designed so that people can get a higher output stock fitting alternator for dirt cheap. Obviously anyone can spend the big money on a built alternator for their cars, but if I can get good mileage out of a junkyard alternator, I can spend the remaining money on something else.
    1995 Buick Regal GS(X) - Heavily modified. /modlist





  9. #54
    there is no cs130d's that will bolt on my car though, out of the JY.

    2.8/3.1 guys need a modded case to make it a bolt in. What I should have done is made a thread and done a write up when I did that.

  10. #55
    white4d96's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Garrett Powered View Post
    there is no cs130d's that will bolt on my car though, out of the JY.

    2.8/3.1 guys need a modded case to make it a bolt in. What I should have done is made a thread and done a write up when I did that.
    Can't use the bracket bits off the D?
    http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr118/jfleck91/untitled-1.jpg


  11. #56
    if it is possible, I have not yet seen pics or even heard of anybody doing it. I would like to see someone try because then we might see more TGP's and other W's with D's in their engine bay. just like it would be nice to see more people running CS144's or similar chassis alts on 3100/3400 cars. or if someone installed the minivan bracket on a 2.8/3.1 and ran a big chassis alt, I would love to see if that is possible.

    you know how those alts have a split case though, so there is two sides. well, if you order a specially clocked case for the one side (wish I had a part number) and machine off some of the aluminum in a special way with a lathe, then it will bolt in on stock brackets. I bet you could use a grinder and get close enough but this shop I go to has no reason to take a chance with hand held tools.

  12. #57
    the lumina LTZ comes with a 140 amp cs144 and it should be a perfect match even for the GTP's, i'm using it for my top swap

  13. #58
    ok guys, sorry I just went and read everything on here and I've been doing audio/electric in cars for a while now, this is what i've come to know as of yet

    the cs 130D is not exactly the cream of the crop...I had a factory one in a car with 140k I put in a small system, 2 audiobahn aluminum 12's and a 800watt audiobahn amp, with 1 farad cap, and i fried it, next step was a 220AMP...well this one failed inside a monthe with 3 audioban alum12q's and a 1000watt rockford amp, 1000watt generic amp and 3 farads to back it up, as well as 0/0gauge main wire and 4gauge feeds to the electrics, topped with 2 seperate 0/0 gauge grounds-this was just under the hood....the rest was feed through a 0/0 and 0/1 gauges each component having it's own ground, and i'm not so sure you can get above 105amp factory...that i don't know, i went straight to aftermarket, but my lights still would dim.....now I have a factory power rebuild on my oem alt. but I am running just the 1000w amp rockford 2 farads and 2 rockford p3's and its definately not near enough, but my second rebuild on the 220A should be here in about 2 weeks, also a capcell is goign to be added...maybe that will help out. either way the design is flawed and unless you don't wanna go big with your system its gong to be a never ending process.

    the cs144 is pretty tough as of yet in my mind, I have 2 LTZ's both have had systems in and out ranging from my smallest 500watt kenwood and 2 RF10's, upto 2 JL 12 W6's and a 1000.1 JL AMP no wiring upgrades, a 0/1 gauge feed to a 600amp capcell then to amp, and a 0/0 ground, both have been replaced one time, just with a palladium rebuit one from advance, wait I take it back my 98 is currently running on it's third. i'm going to try 3 RF p3 12's on a 1000.1 RF amp and a 2 farad cap and see what happens

    as for the two being interchangeable is a question i cannot answer
    thats my experience with my own personal vechicles where I know what happened....i.e. not a customers..
    the wiring upgrade is definately where you will see the most drastic improvement, and I know this sounds obvious, but MAKE SURE all your connections are good, CLEAN (espicallly the grounds), and solid

    the charging wire
    the line to the starter
    the ground off the batt
    ....now you can and probably should add in these (I did)
    line to fuse blocks
    ground off the engine block or head depending on the car..both

    FUSES/CIRCUIT BREAKERS ON ALL MAJOR HOTS..i.e. the charging wire

    hope this helps someone

  14. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by LTZ View Post
    the lumina LTZ comes with a 140 amp cs144 and it should be a perfect match even for the GTP's, i'm using it for my top swap

    are you sure? I am still trying to find out more info on this is why. stock cs144? I would like to see a pic of this.

    wait, no, you have a 3800 with a cs144? never heard of that.

  15. #60
    RobertISaar's Avatar

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    check out rockauto: 98 lumi LTZ w/3800: the police packaged cars got a 140 amp piece. no idea what it is though.
    King of Code
    1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E... for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!


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