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Thread: DOHC rear plugs, easy solution

  1. #16


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    and im guessing to get it back to its desired spot you just drive it forwards and line the dogbone back up?....I didnt know it was so easy! i hope it goes this easy in the morning LOL thanks guys!

  2. #17
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    you should be able to rock it by hand once the weight of the car is off the park pin.
    Matt Shantz


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  3. #18


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    Quote Originally Posted by Psych0matt View Post
    So after some fidgeting around I finally found the perfect combo to get the rear plugs out. This can be done without removing anythings, without rocking the engine, without cutting the firewall lip. I did all three of my rear plugs in under 15 minutes, and the hardest part was just getting the wires back in because of the goofy plastic tubey thingy that they go in.

    Here's what you'll need:
    1/2" socket wrench
    1/2" 5" extension



    1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor


    3/8" universal joint



    3/8" 3" extension


    3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket




    Here's what you do:

    First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on

    thanks matt,
    that is going to save me some time and cut knuckles. hat's off to you.
    cheers,
    gryfan

  4. #19


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    I connected a strap to the engine after i parked it on the ramps and loosened the dogbone, connected the strap to my jeep and pulled it did the trick...Got the wires in with no problems, it started up and ran real well untill i got on the highway, it started to spit n puke, I wonder if the bit of water down in the thing would cause that

  5. #20
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    Plugs gapped properly?
    Matt Shantz


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  6. #21


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    Yup...theres white smoke coming from the pipes when i first start it it eventually goes away, driving it around though it runs rough and smells of exaust at times...Im afraid to drive it!...Looks like it will be going back to the shop just again, looks like this summer i wont be enjoying it if this keeps up

  7. #22
    not to sound rude, but shouldn't the exhaust smell like exhaust? I would check your plug gaps again, and did you put new wires on? If not, maybe you busted a wire taking them off/putting them on? Maybe they're not connected all the way?
    '92 5 speed GTP - Mod list _____ 95 Monte Carlo Z34 - DD _____ 91 GP Sedan - lent to GF as her DD


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    lol it smells real rich smelling and does it for a very long time, More than normal...Will def check the other stuff again, Thanks for the advise

  9. #24


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    Changed the plugs again, It ran great for 2 days now its back to running rough n crap...The check engine light is still on , But every place i take it too says they cant check the checkengine light because the car is too old

  10. #25
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  11. #26


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    Happy to announce that it was my EGR valve, And a few sensors, Nothing major, My cutlass is back to running normal, Well as normal as a 3.4L can get ( im still not used to this engine, i am more fond of the 3800 series2 that was in both of the lumina LTZs i owned).....Are there any meetings planned anytime soon it would be nice to meet up with other gearheads, Even if you dont gota cutty convertible

  12. #27
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