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Thread: Penglii's 1989 TGP

  1. #316
    RobertISaar's Avatar

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    i don't remember thinking them being huge in comparison.... at least not by itself. when throwing the caliper bracket into the picture, yeah, it does seem quite large.

    slightly larger rotors as well.
    King of Code
    1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E... for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!


  2. #317
    I didn't do it personally, I brought the whole strut assembly from the olds over to him, he swapped over the caliper and the rotor. maybe not huge in comparison, but compared to import front brakes big

  3. #318
    Yeah..... I thought about doing the 94+ brake upgrade, but I think I will wait.
    I really just want to get the car finally drivable again. I understand that the upgrade is not difficult... but I is a brakes newb and kinda just want some "normal" brake experience before I dive into modifications. Once the Raybestos Loaded Calipers I picked up eventually (inevitably) fail then I will go 94+.

    Hopefully I will be spending my Sunday doing the rear brakes and replacing the accumulator. Sucks to be me I haz the PMIII... so I figure this is already gonna take all day to do right... what with the learning curve and all.

    Question though.. with the rear brakes I know I have to manually bleed the crap out of those (too bad I have no pressure bleeder kit, or pressure source, so the Tech-1 is useless with this part), and thankfully the Tech-1 will assist me with the otherwise PITA solenoid bleed for the accumulator...
    ... but should I bleed the front calipers too? I know they still work since the car actually came to a stop during my short test drive... but would it be worth the trouble to bleed the old brake fluid from them? Or is it OK to save myself the trouble and flush those another day?

  4. #319
    GRRRRRRR... freaking 22 year old accumulator is seized onto the PMIII.
    Seems like MOAR TORQUE cannot be the answer without totally destroying things.

    Sprayed some PB Blaster back there as best as I could, gonna let it sit like an hour and try again... hopefully it helps.
    I guess if it's still stuck then MOAR PB Blaster and let it sit until tomorrow...

  5. #320
    Forum Moderator mfewtrail's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Penglii View Post
    GRRRRRRR... freaking 22 year old accumulator is seized onto the PMIII.
    Seems like MOAR TORQUE cannot be the answer without totally destroying things.

    Sprayed some PB Blaster back there as best as I could, gonna let it sit like an hour and try again... hopefully it helps.
    I guess if it's still stuck then MOAR PB Blaster and let it sit until tomorrow...

    What are you using to remove it?
    matt f. - '93 SE, '90 Black/tan TGP(#101 of 2,749), & '90 Red/tan TGP

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  6. #321
    PB Blaster+24 hours= no such thing as seized
    this IS a General Motors product and the general rule is that nothing should make actual sense.
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  7. #322
    Quote Originally Posted by mfewtrail View Post
    What are you using to remove it?
    Socket, U-joint, extention, 3/8" ratchet.
    I quit with the muscling when I see the pressure switch start to move... I feel that any more force would be WAY too much and risks damage to the PMIII housing.

    Quote Originally Posted by virtuetovice View Post
    PB Blaster+24 hours= no such thing as seized
    I just hope that some of it actually got down by the threads... it's not exactly easy to reach that spot with a can of PB Blaster. I just hosed the crap out of the area (and wiped off as much pooling and overspray as I could reach) and am crossing my fingers that capillary action is my friend.

  8. #323
    PB Blaster is officially the best thing EVER!

    Somehow bruised both of my elbows pretty good when the accumulator finally broke loose... but I so don't even care, I'm just so happy to have that 22 year old accumulator out of there and the brand new one is in place.

    Now I just gotta tackle the rear calipers... here's hoping that goes well.

  9. #324
    New rear calipers are in place, so that's good. It was a PITA but not as bad as I feared.... nobody around today to help me bleed them though, so I gotta do that another day.

  10. #325
    Alright... not quite a year since my last post here... but close. Hooray for this unseasonably warm weather!

    Gonna take another crack at getting the TGP running this year.

    Pulled the plenum today and installed a set of 26lb Accel injectors. Newer silver bodied style, used but only for ~1000 miles, basically just long enough to guarantee me that they all work correctly... scored 8 of them for just $50!

    Also found a major clue... when I upgraded to the allegedly 26lb corvette injectors, I apparently epic failed at seating the injectors into the LIM. They were seated in the rail perfectly, but basically just barely pushed into the LIM... I'm sure they were getting crap for a seal. This explains a lot. So I probably did not need to upgrade the injectors, just actually seat them properly... but new Accel injectors... you cannot go wrong.

    Broke the Coolant Temp Sender beneath the Thermostat housing... so a new one of those is coming from Rockauto.

    Hopefully a new Vacuum Spider is in the mail as well... assuming this order is not cancelled like my gmpartsdirect order was.

    Sorry Robert... but I'm also getting a new tune from Adam (flybynite on TGPforums)... so that should be gravy.

    Once all that comes together I just gotta finally do a full PMIII bleed... ugh, I've been putting that job off for so long...

  11. #326
    AL's Avatar

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    I did not find a mint tan lower dash piece at the yard, sorry

    98 Regal GS - 260k, Aquamans sloppy seconds, for sale
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    But the Grand Prix is a Grand Prix, which automatically trumps all.

  12. #327
    That's ok, one will turn up eventually. Thanks for trying.

  13. #328
    once you hacksaw the injectors new grooves for the clips it should fit perfect. it seems like they are leaking (I did the same thing) but the cruise and stuff wouldn't be working if there was a leak. the base tune should make the injectors behave better if nothing else and you get the IAC adjusted good and idle to smooth out. you are way ahead of most guys already because you are good at burning chips and familiar with tunerpro 5.

    are they actually a different design than the gray bosch injectors though? I am following this thread to see how it turns out because I am still deciding whether to stay 28 or go with 36's in the red tgp. the motor is not built nearly as much as the black one so it may not need that big. just big enough for the disco potato to keep its cool

  14. #329
    Hacksaw the injectors? IDK what you are talking about, the Accel injectors fit like a glove. The clips fit perfectly.
    I'm thinking that the motor will finally run like a champ with properly installed injectors and a good base tune.

    The OEM injectors were multec 1 style (fat bellied), obviously. The bosh injectors were multec 2 style, long and skinny. The Accel injectors are shaped like the multec 1's but fancy looking.

    My cruise control module is deleted. It was in my way and I personally don't like/use cruise control. So I can never rely on that to be a vac leak clue. LOL

    The Accel injectors installed now are seated nicely. The bosh styles would have seated nicely if I tried... but apparently I failed at even really trying to seat them into the LIM, so I know that must have messed with things.

    I am switching out the 160* t-stat for a 180* one... that should be a sufficient heat increase to allow the tech-1 to run a proper idle relearn, and doing that will ferret out any obvious problems in short order.

  15. #330
    I think I got pics in my thread. of the hack job I did. if not I need to update it. in the members rides section. *edit: in my pics in the "garage" section of the forum...

    I seen it somewhere a long time ago. but then adam reminded me to cut new seats for the steel clips that hold the injectors like a half CM up to seat the injectors perfect.


    I went with the 180 with a single small hole drilled through near the side. I tuned the base tune for fan set points that I am still experimenting with. Adam tells me there is a fan door motor of some sort that goes bad on these cars. goes from hot to cold. still have not looked into that. I am worried the heater core corroded and might need replaced because I can hear the motor doing its thing but not getting warm air.

    my cruise stopped working the other day after I had some battery acid overflow out of my battery and stain the driveway. I was running the subwoofer at high output levels and gave it a workout! anyway, the acid may have corroded the vacuum ball lines or something is what I am guessing since the lines go under it. and I will need a new battery soon. its not too urgent with my dual batteries and stuff but its annoying not having cruise after awhile. don't worry, you can always get it back in or replace it for cheap. pretty common part in the JY.

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