Had '95 inspected - Should I walk away based on what they found? (list here)

[djrobnyc]

Just had a 1995 Blue with white top, white interior inspected by CARCHEX at a dealer. 115,000 miles. 3.4L.

I'm deciding whether or not to buy it (price is at $3000 right now). Here is what the inspector found (I used this board's advice to guide him what to look for. What I'd like to know is: 1) How much would some of this stuff cost to fix? 2) Based on what the inspector found, should I push for a lower price (it's a new car dealer, so he may not go much lower) or just walk away? I'm willing to spend some money to get the car up to snuff, but don't want to break the bank. Thanks!

EXTERIOR
---Overall body/paint/wheels/tires are good
---Power top works Ok but needs repair ---seams ripping
---Top rear glass seems loose
--- Rear window rubber seals need to be replaced.

ELECTRICAL
---Power locks do not close both doors.
---Power antenna is inoperable.
---The right front power window switch is inoperable. (power window ok using main switch). The left rear power window is inoperable.

INTERIOR
---Driver seat worn out and the others need cleaning. The carpets are worn and need cleaning.
---The A pilar cover is loose
---The center console top is broken loose

MECHANICAL
---A/C doesn't blow cold
---Overall, the car runs well but the power steering is very noisy.
---The brake pedal gets harder after 3 or 4 pumps.
---Unable to verify timing belt condition (but a safe procedure when condition is unkown is to replace belt and tensioner and some cases water pump to get a 70K or so trouble free miles.)
---Smells oil burning (possible small leak driping on exhaust), but no exhaust smoke or oil on floor.

[tdvs]

Your description of the car is pretty through, but some pics would help even more. Guess it depends on how much you want the car, but more important, how much of the work you can or want to do yourself. Top sounds more like it needs replacing. $800 to $1,200. Timing belt, tensioner, and pulleys around $800 to $900. Electrical switchs, antenna, and the like can be gotten at the junk yard cheap and easily changed. With a little luck and patience, good interior pieces can be gotten from the j/y also.

New car dealers in particular will not hang onto a car that old for very long. Especially a vert at this time of year. The convertible season is pretty much over. They'll just send it off to the auction, where they'll probably only get about half as much as the asking price. Bottom line is, cash money talks. $2500 doesn't sound too bad, but I'd go in with the $2500 but show him $2000 to start and go from there.

Tom

[GP1138]

Why were they unable to verify the timing belt condition? Did they not posess a ratchet and socket?

[djrobnyc]

I've attached a few pictures here. The inspector could not verify the timing belt because CARCHEX doesn't seem to take apart stuff - I think due to insurance reasons.

So it seems I'm looking at about $2000 to do some of this work?

UPDATE: The seller says his mechanic thinks the oil leak is the INTAKE MANIFOLD. Any thoughts on this? Cost?

Also, any thoughts on the BRAKES being "hard to pump after 3 or 4 times" and the "power steering being noisy"?

THANKS!
Rob

[ManicMechanic]

I've attached a few pictures here. The inspector could not verify the timing belt because CARCHEX doesn't seem to take apart stuff - I think due to insurance reasons.

So it seems I'm looking at about $2000 to do some of this work?

UPDATE: The seller says his mechanic thinks the oil leak is the INTAKE MANIFOLD. Any thoughts on this? Cost?

Oil pump drive. A LOT to do it right...

Also, any thoughts on the BRAKES being "hard to pump after 3 or 4 times" and the "power steering being noisy"?

Sounds like a low vacuum problem which could be any number of things, the cheapest of which is an incorrect vacuum line. The PS pump will be a pain because the car has Magnasteer. IF it is the PS pump. My car makes a whining noise like a low PS pump and it's the A/C compressor.

I think you can do a lot better for less. It's a pretty and rare car but probably not yet worth all the work it needs.

[AL]

Honestly, that car sounds like its in pretty poor condition... It doesnt sounds like it was taken care of... Its not worth 2 or 3 thousand in my opinion. Its worth closer to 1200.

[dhs1223]

The way I see it is this - 1995 was the last year for this car - if you plan to keep it and enjoy for a long time, then I would take the plunge for up to $ 2000.00. Other than the top, the exterior looks pretty good. Where is this car? and is it rust free for the most part? Most of the repairs seem to add up to a lot of money, but, if you are patient, can do some of the small stuff yourself with salvage yard finds, and then pay the right person to do the other jobs right, you will have a beautiful car that rides great for a fraction of the cost of anything new that is being produced today that is not as nice. Also, this car will some day be a collectable and the pricing on the good examples will start to appreciate slowly, so if you fix it right and keep it up, you will not lose anything.

[djrobnyc]

Thanks for everyone's comments. I spoke with 2 former Olds dealers in my area and I'm definitely looking at $2000 (at least) for the essential mechanical stuff (not counting the cosmetic things, which I'd do over time). The seller says he's got an offer at $2700; I told him I'd offer him slightly above wholesale $1500-$2000, so we'll see if he sells it. If not, maybe he'll come back to me. Again, thanks.

[tdvs]

I wish you luck. There is a lot of information on this sight on most of the repairs you are looking at, should you buy the car. Post any questions about the repairs, and there are plenty of very knowledgeable people on this sight to help you out. That rear window weatherstrip in your photos is a good example. That's a common problem on the verts. There are a couple of threads on here that tell, with pics, how to adapt the door weatherstrips from a Camaro/Firebird to fix that problem. There are also people here that seem to be very generous with there time also, and willing to help fellow w-body members out with repairs, like the timing belt. Don't know where you live, but if your lucky, one of them may be in your area and willing to lend a hand. If you buy the car with the intention of keeping it, don't mind spending some money on it, and can get it for the right price, then I would seriously consider it. But that's just me.

Tom

[oldscsc]

Good luck with the seals...they are discontinued and NOS is ridiculously expensive. You can find a better car for the money you'd have into this one. Just look around and be willing to go get it within good radius. I think this one has been mechanically neglected throughout it's life

[tdvs]

Good luck with the seals...they are discontinued and NOS is ridiculously expensive. You can find a better car for the money you'd have into this one. Just look around and be willing to go get it within good radius. I think this one has been mechanically neglected throughout it's life

Definately wouldn't hurt to shop around. And if your not in a hurry, another one will probably come along later for the same money, in better condition. Always a possibility. Something to also think about.

Tom

[slick]

Seriously, if you have any hands on knowledge, 90% of the above listed stuff can be fixed VERY easily.

The console lid broken, good luck finding one, they ALL break. Poor design.

A switch that's not good- $20 at the JY will fix that.

Locks don't lock the doors- the rods just need adjusted a bit.

The top, well, it's a convertible. Your going to have problems with it. And the weatherstripping, good luck finding any of those, and good luck finding a Cutlass vert who's weatherstripping isn't bad.

If you own a 7mm socket, and have 5 minutes of your own time, pull off the timing cover. If the belt is good, it will look normal. If it's failing, you will see shreds, or just a failing belt. Pretty easy to tell.

To me, the car sounds no different than the average 10-15 year old vehicle. And, keep in mind, convertible's tend to have a bit more issue's (interior electrically) than most, do to the extra moisture that does get inside of the vehicle.

I'd offer $2500. If he doesn't like it, keep looking.

[ManicMechanic]

If you own a 7mm socket, and have 5 minutes of your own time, pull off the timing cover. If the belt is good, it will look normal. If it's failing, you will see shreds, or just a failing belt. Pretty easy to tell.

8mm

[AL]

---The brake pedal gets harder after 3 or 4 pumps.

This worries me... Was this being tested while the car was running?

[slick]

If you own a 7mm socket, and have 5 minutes of your own time, pull off the timing cover. If the belt is good, it will look normal. If it's failing, you will see shreds, or just a failing belt. Pretty easy to tell.

8mm

7, 8, who cares LOL!