My 4th Grand Prix...**Photos added Pg. 6**

[tornado_735]

I know what some people are going to be thinking.

8277

I wish I knew the answer.

For some reason, I take pride in being able to unravel other peoples fuck ups on Ws...this one is going to be a challenge.

Worst case, I'll just fix what problems I can and trade this thing off for something else.

Details:

1994 GP SE. L82. Too many miles. The ONLY reason I traded was because of how the engine sounds (sounds better than the Saab did, which picked up a miss on the way to trade it).

Been hit in the front, although the only real clue is the shit headlight alignment.

Needs a hood, and quarter panel work.

Needs a front wheel bearing (maybe two) and the rotors warped to hell and beyond.

ABS, Low Coolant, and Security lights are on. The fans are run to a toggle switch which I'm trying to figure out how to get rid of. Needs less fire hazard. There is a rats nest in the driver side where the window switches used to be. I don't know what in the fuck they were trying to do. The only thing I can guess is an aftermarket keyless entry. I'm sure I'm going to be looking at door wiring pinouts when I go to try and fix this.

The half ass tint was ripped off the front windows, and the adhesive left behind. Not sure how to remove it. The tint is all bubbled in the back window. That should be fun to remove.

I FUCKING HATE SMOKERS. Nuff said.

There seems to be some sort of a voltage issue. Gauges jump when anything that takes a lot of juice is turned on (turn signals, headlights, etc). Gonna check the battery terminals and the Aux post. +

Factory CD player, although I haven't tried it out yet.

Needs leather interior swap.

This is the only picture I feel like sharing until I get it at least clean.
8280

[Night Fury]

Please tell me it's at least a coupe!

Also......... Just HOW many miles?

[tornado_735]

Here's the Compnine on it (Thank God compnine is back!!)



UH8
CLUSTER-COOL TEMP, TACH, TRIP ODOM GA(UH8)

49,447


UK3
ELECTRONIC SYSTEM,ACCESSORY CONTROL ELEK ACSRY CONT SYS(UK3)

49,103


UN6
RADIO,AM/FM STEREO,CASSETTE,ETR,INCLUDES CLOCK STEREO CASSETTE(UN6)
RADIO,AM/FM STEREO,CASSETTE,ETR,INCLUDES CLOCK(EXPORT) STEREO CASSETTE(UN6)

36,401


US6
ANTENNA,FIXED(PAINTED) FIXED PAINTED ANT(US6)
ANTENNA,FIXED(PAINTED)(RH REAR QUARTER PANEL MOUNTED) FIXED PAINTED ANT(US6)

33,049


UX7
SPEAKER SYSTEM,4,DUAL FRONT DOOR MOUNTED,DUAL EXTENDED RANGE PACKAGE SHELF 4 SPKR SYS(UX7)

37,984


VK3
LICENSE PLATE,FRONT MOUNTING PACKAGE FRT LIC PLT MTG PKG(VK3)

37,708


VN9
FLEET PROGRAM - GUARANTEED 100% REPURCHASE

4,613


VY7
KNOB,TRANSMISSION CONTROL LEVER,LEATHER LEATHER SHFT KNOB(VY7)

49,149


V73
VEHICLE STATEMENT - US/CANADA US/CANADA VEHICLE STATEMENT(V73)

49,395


WX2
APPOINTMENT GROUP,LEATHER LEATHER APPOINTMENT GROUP(WX2)

49,149


WY9
CONTROL SHIFT, 2ND GR START SHIFT CTL(WY9)

49,432


ZV1
STATEMENT OF ORIGIN - MANUFACTURE

6,287


Z7K
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX "SE"(MERCHANDISING OPTION)(2WM19 + Z7K = 2WJ19)(2WM37 + Z7K = 2WJ37) SE(Z7K)

49,447


0DH
Unk.
27,909


1SA
PACKAGE-OPTION 01 (1SA)

48,304


12B
TRIM COMBINATION CLOTH, GRAPHITE (B) (92) CLOTH TRIM(12B)

16,077


12I
INTERIOR TRIM GRAPHITE (12I)

29,024


26U
EXTERIOR COLOR,PRIMARY (26U)
EXTERIOR COLOR,PRIMARY,MED CLOISONNE BLUE METALLIC (26U)

2,957


6UZ
COMPONENT FRT LH - COMPUTER SEL SUSP (6UZ) SUSP(6UZ)

22,188


7UY
COMPONENT FRT RH - COMPUTER SEL SUSP (7UY) SUSP(7UY)

21,570


84P
WHEEL COLOR,GUNMETAL GRAY (84P)

12,305


AAA
Unk.
47,956


AK5
RESTRAINT SYSTEM,FRONT SEAT,INFLATABLE,DRIVER AND PASSENGER DRIVER & PASS F/SEAT INFL RST SYS(AK5)

49,447


AR9
SEAT,FRONT BUCKET,DRIVER,PASSENGER,MANUAL RECLINING(EUROPEAN STYLE) MAN RECL FRT BKT ST(AR9)(EXPORT)
SEAT,FRONT BUCKET,DRIVER,PASSENGER,MANUAL RECLINING(EUROPEAN STYLE) MAN RECL FRT BKT ST,DELUXE(AR9)

26,463


A90
LOCK,REAR COMPARTMENT LID,REMOTE CONTROL,ELECTRIC RELEASE ELEC REL LID LK(A90)

49,446


BF9
COVERING,FLOOR MAT(DELETE) BF9)

5,197


BQ2
FLEET INCENTIVE - AVIS CORP (C/D/E/F/G/H/J/K/L/N/M/U/W/Z-TRK CKGMLPST)

2,983


BV8
ORNAMENTATION EXTR DR HANDLE, LOCK CYLINDER, COLOR PAINTED DR LK CYL & DOOR HANDLE(BV8)

16,252


BYP
GSI METRO PACKAGE GSI PKG(BYP)
SPORT EQUIPMENT PACKAGE SPORT PKG(BYP)

16,252


B9G
VEHICLE GM - PROD WEEK 07

287


B97
ORNAMENTATION,EXTERIOR,LOWER MOLDING ACCENT LWR ACNT MLDG(B97)
ORNAMENTATION,EXTERIOR,LOWER MOLDING ACCENT LWR ACNT MLDG(B97)(EXPORT)

16,252


C49
DEFOGGER,REAR WINDOW,ELECTRIC ELEC RR WDO DEFG(C49)

49,445


C67
AIR CONDITIONER,FRONT,ELECTRONIC CONTROLS A/C FRT ELEC CONT(C67)

49,447


DD2
MIRROR,INSIDE,SUNSHADE,COVERED I/S CVR S/S MIR(DD2)

26,396


DG7
MIRROR,OUTSIDE,RH & LH REMOTE CONTROL,ELECTRIC(PAINTED) O/S ELEC R/CON PAINTED MIR(DG7)

49,445


DL5
DECAL ROADSIDE SERVICE INFORMATION ROADSIDE SERVICE INFO DECAL(DL5)

47,956


D55
CONSOLE,FRONT COMPARTMENT FLOOR F/CMPT FLR CNSL(D55)
CONSOLE,FRONT COMPARTMENT FLOOR F/CMPT FLR CNSL(D55)(EXPORT)

49,447


FAI
PLANT CODE-FAIRFAX KS,BOC FAIRFAX,KS PLANT CODE(FAI)

49,447


FE1
SUSPENSION SYSTEM,SOFT RIDE SOFT RIDE SUSP(FE1)

17,613


FLT
SALES PROCESSING - OPTION

8,415


GX3
TRANSAXLE,FINAL DRIVE,3.33 RATIO 3.33R(GX3)

41,646


IPB
TRIM,INTERIOR DESIGN (IPB)

26,463


JL9
BRAKE SYSTEM,POWER,FRONT AND REAR DISC,ANTILOCK FRT & RR DISC ANTILOCK BRK(JL9)

32,773


K34
CRUISE CONTROL,AUTOMATIC,ELECTRONIC CRCONT(K34)

49,447


K68
GENERATOR,105 AMPERE 105 AMP(K68)

49,447


L82
ENGINE,3.1L(3.1M)6 CYL,V6,MFI,HO 3.1M(L82)

41,646


MX0
TRANSMISSION,AUTOMATIC,OVERDRIVE(MERCHANDISING OPTION) A/TRANS PROVISIONS(MX0)

49,447


M13
TRANSMISSION,AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED(4T60-E) 4-SPD A/TRANS(M13)

49,447


NB6
EMISSION SYSTEM CALIFORNIA,TIER 1 CALIF EMIS, TIER 1(NB6)

4,374


NC7
EMISSION SYSTEM,FEDERAL OVERRIDE FED EMIS OVERRIDE(NC7)
EMISSION SYSTEM,UNLEADED FUEL(EXPORT) UNLEADED FUEL(EXPORT)(NC7)

697


NG1
EMISSION CERTIFICATION,GEOGRAPHICALLY RESTRICTED CERTIFICATION RESTRICTED EMIS CERTIFICATION(NG1)

2,504


NP5
STEERING WHEEL,LEATHER WRAPPED LEATHER WRAPPED STRG WHL(NP5)

49,149


NW0
WHEEL,16X6.5(CAST ALUMINUM) AL WHL(NW0)

17,754


PB4
LOCK KIT,ALUMINUM WHEEL AL WHL LOCK KIT(PB4)
LOCK KIT,ALUMINUM WHEEL(EXPORT) AL WHL LOCK KIT(PB4)(EXPORT)

49,378


QPE
TIRE ALL- P215/60R16/N BL R/PE ST TL AL2 TIRE(QPE)

17,459


R6U
CONTROL - SALES ITEM NO. 20

8,370

[ManicMechanic]

If it came from the factory with CD, that's pretty rare. I looked it up once and only 1500 (out of 49,500) coupes came with it.

Ah well, never mind. :lol:

[tornado_735]

Please tell me it's at least a coupe!

Also......... Just HOW many miles?

See my picture in the whatever thread for your answer.

77k more miles than the Saab had.

[Night Fury]

Saw that. How many miles did your saab have? JUST ANSWER THE DAMN QUESTION DAMNIT!!! :lol:

[tornado_735]

If it came from the factory with CD, that's pretty rare. I looked it up once and only 1500 (out of 49,500) coupes came with it.

Ah well, never mind. :lol:

Yup LOL

[tornado_735]

Saw that. How many miles did your saab have? JUST ANSWER THE DAMN QUESTION DAMNIT!!! :lol:

Not as many as this car. :lol:























This car has 213k

[Night Fury]

Pfft weak. 3 of 5 of my cars are above that. one is right at that.

[RobertISaar]

yeah.... you've got some fun ahead of you now. :lol:

from what i gather, it was a fleet car?

[94 olds vert]

Looks like it was fleet car?

B9G VEHICLE GM - PROD WEEK 07

I'm also curious about this RPO code. Anyways, looking forward to seeing some more pictures.

[tornado_735]

So...fleet=rental?

Oh, and the door sticker says a build of 02/94. If the RPO is the 7th week, that's the third week of February.

[Night Fury]

Not always.

[Night Fury]

I'd even say not LIKELY

[ManicMechanic]

This car has 213k

Shit, that's just broken in...:D

[RobertISaar]

considering the 95MC has 199,6xx at the moment, and still runs excellent and gets 36-37MPG on the highway, i wouldn't be that afraid of 213K.

[Night Fury]

88 has 256,000 and runs like it has half that or less

[tornado_735]

Yeah, this car actually runs really good which is shocking that the rest of it was allowed to go to shit like it was.

[MonteCarloDude]

Moar W!! :thumbsup: I need to see this in person ASAP. :D 213K is not that bad, as long as the trans seems ok and that motor runs well you should be set!

[tornado_735]

It's nothing much to look at right now Mike.

I think I found the source of my voltage issues.

The negative battery terminal was completely encased in this blue crust, and both of the battery terminals were just a touch above finger tight.

I wish I had some vasoline to put on the terminals. I might have some dielectric grease kicking around...

[RobertISaar]

yeah, that'll do it.

don't be surprised if the threads in the battery are stripped too.

[tornado_735]

No, they look ok. The battery looks fairly new actually.

[Addicted to eaton]

B4u kit that bad girl, love the color.

[tornado_735]

Jesus.

So this guy had the fans literally hotwired in tandem to the battery using wire the same diameter as the stuff that comes with cheap aftermarket fog lights, and leading to a switch that's rated for 10 amps.

Something tells me the fans pull more than 10 amps if the stock wires (which he cut) are twice the diameter. No inline fuse. The insulation was melting at both ends of the wires.

Fucking idiot. :facepalm:

[RobertISaar]

in tandem?

mspaint?

[Penglii]

Love that color!
My sedan is the same year, engine and color. :thumbsup:

[tornado_735]

in tandem?

mspaint?

This was actually fun lol


8285

[RobertISaar]

you know.... there is a small amount of genius to whatever dumbass thought it up.

by using the extra small wire, the amount of current that could possibly pass through it probably wasn't enough to actually kill the switch.

probably heated up nicely though. :lol:

i was hoping the dumbass had somewhat of a "bright" moment and only controlled 1 fan or at least ran both fans in series to reduce current.

[tornado_735]

Explain "in series" using terms I can understand. Such as MS paint.

And yes, the switch was hot as shit.

[RobertISaar]

"fans in series" by RS

http://i.imgur.com/9paqg.png

notice, - of 1 fan is connected to the + of another. anybody familiar with audio stuff that has dual voice coils will recognize it.

in this instance, running them in series limits current. let's say each fan has a resistance of .2 ohms at 12 volts. if run parallel(each has it's + and - terminals connected normally), then that would be 60 amps per fan, assuming the fuse/wiring would support it. now current will drop when the fans spool up, but let's think instantaneous for the moment.

now connecting them in series will bring the total circuit resistance up to .4 ohms, meaning a total draw of 30 amps at 12 volts. each fan would consume roughly 15 amps if the motors are the same(and not dysfunctional).

so, in parallel, total draw would be 120 amps, in series, 30 amps. now, why isn't everything run in series to reduce power usage? because less work is done(IE, the fans in parallel will spin up and maintain a much higher speed than if they were in series).

for this situation, in series would PROBABLY have been enough airflow, assuming it was even needed in the first place.

[tornado_735]

I'd like to figure out why he had the fans like this in the first place.

I don't really have enough wire to work with to reconnect them where he cut them, so I'm going to have to do something about that. I figure wire that's the same gauge as stock, and some twist caps ought to be ok.

If the fans were not kicking on as they should be, where are relays? What else might be causing it?

[RobertISaar]

fan relays are in the electrical center underhood, passenger side.

dead relays, shit wiring to the relays, bad PCM (not common), bad maxifuse that feeds the fans, bad coolant temp sensor, dumbass owner who thinks 200*F coolant with a 195* thermostat is the end of the world, dumbass owner who thought his A/C didn't work because his fans didn't run... and potential for lots more "dumbass did this because of bad assumption x, y, z" reasons.

10 gauge wire will be fine for the fans since once they're up to speed, they draw significantly less current than when they startup.

twist caps(wire nuts?).... not the greatest option, but better than twist/tape. butt splices would be a little better(and have the ability to seal up nicely to keep away from environment), but personally i would solder, though i'm quite paranoid, so take that with it's proper dosage of salts.

[tornado_735]

BUTT SPLICES. I forgot about those.

Well, I have come to the conclusion that smoking is a filthy disgusting habit. This car is getting interior swapped asap.

I got the fire hazard hoopty fan wiring out from under the hood, and tore dash and center console trim out to clean it up.

Now I've got to figure out which of the wheel bearings are howling, and get new ones priced. The weirdest thing is that is, when going around a right hand turn or curve, the bearing is dead silent. You get going straight again and it gets to howling. Not sure what that means.

It also needs a starter solenoid.

[Addicted To Boost]

The weirdest thing is that is, when going around a right hand turn or curve, the bearing is dead silent. You get going straight again and it gets to howling. Not sure what that means.
That's EXACTLY what bad wheel bearings do! :lol: They have excess play in them, so when you're going straight, they make noise... and when you are turning, the play is taken up somewhat and it's momentarily quiet.

[tornado_735]

That's EXACTLY what bad wheel bearings do! :lol: They have excess play in them, so when you're going straight, they make noise... and when you are turning, the play is taken up somewhat and it's momentarily quiet.

I kind of suspected that. I've only dealt with ones that were so bad they made noise standing still :lol:

[oldscsc]

Sounds like a passenger side wheel bearing. When you turn right, the weight of the car shifting to the left slightly unloads the passenger side wheel bearing to the point it's not under enough stress to make noise.

[Night Fury]

Sounds like a passenger side wheel bearing. When you turn right, the weight of the car shifting to the left slightly unloads the passenger side wheel bearing to the point it's not under enough stress to make noise.

I was under the assumption it was the other way around

[Breakdown]

Please tell me it's at least a coupe!

Also......... Just HOW many miles?

Buck . . .


It's a '94. It has to be a coupe. No rear lightbar.

[Breakdown]

I was under the assumption it was the other way around

I'll agree with oldscsc,


Your car's body will lean to the outside. Go on an off-ramp and you'll notice instantly.

[AL]

On my step-brothers truck, the bad bearing actually got quiet under load... We found out because we replaced the drivers one and the noise didnt change... When turning left, the bearing was quiet... Youll just have to really listen to which side you think the noise is coming from

[Night Fury]

^^I win!

[GOT2B GM]

Sounds like a passenger side wheel bearing. When you turn right, the weight of the car shifting to the left slightly unloads the passenger side wheel bearing to the point it's not under enough stress to make noise.

Most of the time this is the correct diagnosis.

[AL]

That is true, I have seen it both ways which makes diagnosing a bitch... In college we had magnetic microphones that we mounted near the wheel and we could listen to them individually which made diagnosing it much easier

[Breakdown]

Stupid question, but can't you just jack up the car (with wheels blocked) and put in neutral and spin the suspected wheels & listen?

[AL]

You usually can't spin it fast enough to really tell

[Breakdown]

On mine you could. Just let them get worse and worse and you'll know.

Don't underestimate my strength, I could probably spin good ones fast enough to break 'em.

[GtpKo]

What about after jacking it up, wiggle the wheel a bit and look for play?

[GtpKo]

Oh, and I believe this is in order:

Disregard logic: Acquire W!
8296

[tornado_735]

For those who are curious, I'll go ahead and post a pic even though it's dirty and the hood is fucked up.

8298

Needs moar 5-spokes and B4U. Also moar low.

I was convinced that it was the driver side bearing making noise. On the way home, I wore my ear plugs since that howling gets annoying to listen to. That actually made it seem like the noise was coming from the passenger side. I'm going to jack it up, and do the old spin and wiggle trick.

I've got all of the dash trim ripped out right now cleaning it. The one thing I don't like about first gen trim is the rubberized coating that gets all sticky and nasty over time. I also bought some single edge razors, and I'm going to do work on that nasty-ass tint residue on the windows.

I'm also going to rip the driver side seat out today and figure out why it's loose. I'm also going to yank the cluster and clean/replace/pull bulbs.

The revolting thing about cleaning out this car is all the brown nasty tar/nicotine residue that's coming off of everything. The guy I traded with couldn't have been any older than I am, but he sounded like my grandfather did when he was breathing...all raspy and shit.

[94 olds vert]

I see a lot of first gens with the door handle hanging like that. Big surprise I'm sure.

[Night Fury]

Like mine, lol

[tornado_735]

I see a lot of first gens with the door handle hanging like that. Big surprise I'm sure.

I didn't notice it until I went to take the picture.

I might try JB Welding the old handle and see how that works. More out of curiosity than anything. If it works, hey. If not, oh well.

[94 olds vert]

It's worth a shot. Might get you some more use out of it before it goes again.

[tornado_735]

Didn't get nearly as much done today as I would have liked, but did get the remnants of the tint off the front windows.

I pulled the ABS, Security, and Low Coolant lights. The rest had a gross film on them, so I cleaned them up. I also pulled the radio (to help with disconnecting the instrument cluster harness) and found a couple of things odd. I'll have to post the pics tomorrow.

I priced a cheap wheel bearing at Advance. With their $30 off promotional code, I can get two rotors and a hub for about $83. Not bad. If I throw cheap pads into the mix, I can get it all for about $104. Still pretty good.

Now just to figure out which of the hubs is bad.

[MonteCarloDude]

Looks good man! Coupe FTMFW! :dance: Just needs a touch of TLC and she should be good to go! You always know my number if you need a hand. :thumbsup:

On a side note: The GF and i were thinking about stoping by sometime, maybe a weekend somewhat soon? Shoot me a text whenever and let me know if/when you want to chill. :thumbsup:

Quick edit: Update yo sig fool! :showoff:

[ScoobyDoo82]

Thats not nearly as bad as you made it sound.

Oh and to figure out what wheel bearing is bad... try to find a road thats not very busy, and weave left to right. If you're weaving left and the sound goes away or gets quieter, then its the left wheel bearing, same goes for the right. The reason I say this is because the wiggle trick doesnt always work. My sisters Cobalt has a bad wheel bearing but theres not much play in it, it just howls.

[AL]

As mentioned above Spencer, I have seen the bad bearing get quiet under load as well, he will just have to follow the sound as much as possible

[White93z34]

do NOOOOT buy a advance auto cheapass wheel bearing, read the reviews. they are awful junk.

I think someone on my local CL is parting out a GP that same colour. http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/2958717318.html

[GP1138]

Yeah, I got a generic wheel bearing on my GP right now... it may be starting to go bad already...

[GOT2B GM]

Nice, bright aqua metallic

[jeremy]

Dc

[tornado_735]

After my feet quit hurting (working 10 hours in Steel Toe Boots I don't wear very often tore my feet up today) I'm going to probably try and get that passenger side door handle mended. Also, try and figure out which wheel bearing is bad.

Also, I think my speedometer is off. I think it reads about 10mph fast. I do know that the tires are 225/60/16 and the stock size was 215/60/16. I thought that would make the speedometer read slow too...

[RobertISaar]

correct. larger tires = slower speedometer, all other things being equal.

[tornado_735]

Oh well. I'll have to check it between the mile markers on the freeway when I'm going to work tomorrow. I'll set the cruise at 60, and time it.

[RobertISaar]

not necessarily accurate method. if the calibration resistor in your cluster is going out, then speed shown could be high, while your odometer clicks over slow.

in which case, nothing would be accurate. PCM wouldn't be correct(would show slower than actual), speedo wouldn't be correct(could show either way depending on how the resistor fails), odometer wouldn't be correct(would show slower than actual though would reflect what the PCM is seeing).

[tornado_735]

Yeah, but the mile markers will always be right. And so will the stopwatch on my phone. This will at least give me an idea of how far off my speedo is.

[RobertISaar]

true, assuming it doesn't become intermittent or continue to slide off in one direction.

[MonteCarloDude]

Next time we chill I can pull torque up on my phone and that will tell you you're exact speed via GPS. :)

[Breakdown]

do NOOOOT buy a advance auto cheapass wheel bearing, read the reviews. they are awful junk.

I think someone on my local CL is parting out a GP that same colour. http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/2958717318.html

Did you do that colour sensitivity test Nunzi??

That looks pretty Aquaman, and Aaron's . . . doesn't.

[tornado_735]

Next time we chill I can pull torque up on my phone and that will tell you you're exact speed via GPS. :)

Sweet. We'll have to chill sometime soon. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what my weekends look like anymore. Usually not until Friday.

[MonteCarloDude]

Sweet. We'll have to chill sometime soon. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what my weekends look like anymore. Usually not until Friday. Sounds good! I may be busy this sunday afternoon/evening. But other then that i am free most days. I'd stop by on a weekday but i would feel bad with you just getting off work.

On a side note: We should so top swap this thing!! Or at least flip the mounts and gut the airbox. :D

[tornado_735]

There's no swapping that can be done of the top mounts, they're the old style.

I've got to figure out what to do about the tune before any top swapping can be done.

[MonteCarloDude]

There's no swapping that can be done of the top mounts, they're the old style.

I've got to figure out what to do about the tune before any top swapping can be done. No shit? I thought it was the same as mine. The more you know! :lol:


Well you know, Adam has done quite a bit on a stock tune, i'm sure we could put intakes and a CAI on it and the MAF will add the needed fuel. :D Intakes alone should not require a crap ton of extra fuel. Or....... We could OBD II swap it and tune the crap out of it. :D

Another thought/Quick edit: I know Saar converted his MC to OBD 1, i'm not sure what all is involved in that process but it may be worth asking him, you can always tune OBD 1 as well. :biggrin:

[tornado_735]

No MAF on OBD 1.5. Just MAP.

Everything from the downpipe back would be nice.

I think I want to focus on the body before anything mechanical though. I'd love a B4U swap.

[RobertISaar]

i tune the factory 3100 PCMs now.... :D

[MonteCarloDude]

No MAF on OBD 1.5. Just MAP.
Damm, how did I forget about that?? :( Seems that I am a noob today. :lol:

[tornado_735]

i tune the factory 3100 PCMs now.... :D

8363

[tornado_735]

Well, I snapped some more photos this evening.

8370
I want sedan tails...and the CHMSL to be in the top of the rear window like they are on the sedans.

8371
8372
Did ok for just being the hose on my vacuum cleaner. Figure a shop vac would do better. I need one.

8373
Wrinkled hood, faded paint, and a Pontiac badge in need of replacing.

8374
When you look at the car straight on, it looks like it's kind of squinting one eye at you lol

8375
Fairly clean for 214k miles.

8376
8377
Pics of the underlying damage...still trying to decide the best course of action for this.

These next two photos are the things that, by and large, bug me the most about the whole car, and I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. Cutting out the old and welding in new? I don't know...pointers would be appreciated.
8378
8379

[MonteCarloDude]

Not bad! She is pretty clean for over 200k.

[94 olds vert]

The only way to stop the rust would be to cut all of it out and then replace with new metal. Interior looks pretty good.

You mention something about a HUD or DIC pre-wired. If you want a DIC I have one for that Gen GP. So that's something to think about.

[RobertISaar]

if you're really good with fiberglass/bondo.....

i can't do finishing type welds for shit. structural i can do. so when it comes to stuff like this, i usually lean towards non-metallic repairs.

you may have the same problem/situation, IDK. but the crap sections do need to disappear before they spread further.

[94 olds vert]

You could use some pop rivets.

[ManicMechanic]

Has a lot of potential!

[RobertISaar]

if you go B4U, riveting would actually be pretty quick and would hide all of it, i would think.

[94 olds vert]

if you go B4U, riveting would actually be pretty quick and would hide all of it, i would think.

I think it would hide a good amount of it.

[Addicted To Boost]

The B4U wouldn't hide the rust on the rear quarters.

[GP1138]

Ack... that kind of rear quarter rust is the kind I usually shy away from.. but never can seem to avoid. So far, my current vehicle is free of it.

[tornado_735]

Yeah, I was not thrilled to see it. I mean, it can be repaired and stopped, but it's just a lot of work.

At least the rockers are solid.

I Febreezed the interior until I can at least get the money together for a swap. It's ripe in there.

[GOT2B GM]

I've got a real decent charcoal carpet out of a 94 CS coupe that would go real good in that car.

[runt]

If you don't happen to have a steam cleaner get one of those small bissels and go to town. Seats, floor, headliner. It will pull most of the smell out.

[Twenty]

There is just something about a W.

So which do you prefer, coupe or sedan?

[tornado_735]

If you don't happen to have a steam cleaner get one of those small bissels and go to town. Seats, floor, headliner. It will pull most of the smell out.

I don't have one, but I'm sure I can find one. The seats need replacing anyway (the driver side one doesn't even match anywy) but other than the stench, the carpet is in pretty decent shape, really. I'll give it a shot!


I've got a real decent charcoal carpet out of a 94 CS coupe that would go real good in that car.

If steam doesn't seem to do the trick, I'll PM you for a price.



There is just something about a W.

So which do you prefer, coupe or sedan?

Well, prefer the sedan for a couple of reasons, and the coupe for others.

The sedan, because I really hate how wide the doors are on coupes, and also, the door mounted seatbelts bug me too.
The coupe, because they look better, and B4U.

[tornado_735]

Found the suspect wheel bearing. At least the suspect side.

Driver side. Jacked it up and put it in gear. Driver side howls. Passenger side, while noisy, did not make near as much noise.